Looking for Modern Mono Pitch Roof Garage Examples

[ducatithunder]

So I am gathering my final ideas of getting a new 30x40 or 30x36 garage just outside of Annapolis MD. I have had quotes with Morton to come build a pole barn but since this is going to be in my back yard Im concerned it wont quite look right behind a 50's era Mid Century Modern ranch. I am surrounded by horse farms and barns so it will fit the area just not my house per say. I have been thinking about building a mono-pitched garage with to help blend with what I am currently living with.

I want to have a 2 car garage for working on car projects and a separate space for for clean work like tig welding, engine building, lathe/mill etc.

Ive attached is a very crude paint shop edit of the layout of the garage below. The depth will most likely be changed to 28 or 30 feet instead of the original 26 ft dimension.

This is what Im thinking about building instead. I would have 10ft ceilings with clear span. 2 garage door with the left one being deleted to have an enclosed 26-30ft x 16 ft wide workshop with 8-9 foot ceilings. Some windows would be installed there instead of the deleted door. The idea would be to have a small area on top for attic storage. Front roof height would be 14-18 ft tall. A sliding barn door would separate the workshop and garage so that I could move a car, engine, project ... etc back and forth as needed.



The pole barn would have the same designed sqft-age but above the workshop would have 2 rows or attic trusses to allow me to have a attic with an 8/12 roof and about 12x16x7.5 tall. The remainder of the trusses would follow a 3/12 pitch to give me all the head roof for lifts that I would ever need. The roof would be 23ish ft at the peak so Im concerned about this height with 10-11ft walls. Total cost was ~ 45-50K not including the concrete and not finished on the inside. Power is also an additional cost not included.

Im debating on building what I want to suite the look I want. This week I should be able to calculate out that the materials should cost. This has been a back and forth battle for the last 6 months one what to build.

So Ive searched but only had 2 hits on a modern garage with a monopitch roof. Good projects but I want more. Can anyone help or direct me to other projects that fit what Im looking for to read up on?

I have seen this thread ....

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76562

and this smaller version but same overall look ....

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=338282

Thanks guys!

 

[Pluribus]

Wish I could remember the name of the thread; there's a similar design/build somewhere in the NE, maybe upstate New York or New Hampshire?

I'm seriously considering a single pitch roof garage/shop myself, and I browse Google Images all the time using the search phrase, "single pitch roof garage." Once in a while I'll substitute various other key words like shed, shop, mono, etc. There are lots of great buildings out there, and it's great to see photos of them.

 

[Voi]

I'm sure you've already seen this one since it's in your first link but in case you missed it.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73263

You might also search skillion and shed roof examples. Also single slope.

I skimmed over your post quickly sorry if I overlooked that you mentioned any of the above. Will come back and read more closely later.

 

[sandmann]

I am finishing up something similar. There is an 18 foot wide roll-up door on the side. I have been meaning to start a build thread....

 

[sandmann]

Oh...BTW welcome to the GJ!

 

[tomroblee]

I tried a "shed roof garage with loft" search and came up with a number of hits. Just make sure that you are searching for images.

One example that shows quite a few:

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Modern+Shed+Roof+Garage+Designs&FORM=IDMHDL

Your attached drawing brought up the usual question----What are you going to do for "stairs" to get access to your loft/second floor?

What kind of roof are you planning? A shallow pitch roof isn't the best for shingles. It may need to be rather stout for snow load if your area gets the occasional heavy winter storm.

Have you considered some form of celestory roof? I've seen several that seem to blend in with the 1950's/1960's architecture

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=celestory+roof+garage&FORM=AWIR

 

[Kaizen]

I really love that kind of design but just didn't fit in my neighborhood. Frank Howarth on youtube did one.

also saw plans on menards for that type.

 

[sandmann]

I really love that kind of design but just didn't fit in my neighborhood. Frank Howarth on youtube did one.

also saw plans on menards for that type.

Fantastic Video...thanks for the link!

 

[ducatithunder]

Thanks guys. I had been searching google and pinterest for a while. I found lots of pictures but I was hoping to find more info in a build thread. Especially with some pros and cons and "If I had to do it again" statements". Lol.

As for the enclosed shop overhead there will be no stairs. I will have a rolling/pulldown ladder or circular stair to go up. My father had a similar set up in his large metal building that worked well. It also saved a ton of space with out having an actual stair case in front of it. I plan to put my 4 post in front of it so that I can use it as an poor mans elevator to get large objects up. He used actual joists so the upper level was well supported.

As for the snow load I planed on having a metal roof either way. That was another concern of mine. No shingles. IIRC I asked the rep for GAF and he said 3/12 was the minimum they recommended. With a metal I should be able to do a 2/12 or 3/12 roof no problem. I believe the mono pitch garage has a 2/12 roof as designed. They used engineered trusses or LVL beams similar to the WA garage I posted in the first post. I like the mono pitch lines but if I have to have a 4/12 roof and my building is 28ft tall is will defeat the purpose, lol. The max zoning height I can have in my county is 26 ft. I want to stay under 23 ft.

I did consider the celestory roof on an earlier design but the complexity and cost I wasn't a fan of. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[ducatithunder]

Fantastic Video...thanks for the link!

Awesome link. Thanks! BTW here is part II is anyone is interested.

Interesting how he got the extra height by digging down. Wont work in my case as I need to have car access.

 

[Voi]

IIRC I asked the rep for GAF and he said 3/12 was the minimum they recommended. With a metal I should be able to do a 2/12 or 3/12 roof no problem.

I'm in climate zone 6 and finishing up skillion roof cabin. I kept hearing don't go below 3:12 as well but then found a 24 gauge, exposed fastener structural steel metal roof that was rated down to 1:12. Long story short, we ended up going 2:12.

My cabin depth is 20" and we used 12" I-joists on 16" centers. I think we were barely okay at 24" centers but decided to spend another $200 or so and use a few more joists.

I watched the video in a previous link on my phone and couldn't make out the truss detail but they looked like hybrid wood/steel open web trusses. I would've liked to look into something like that but at 20' depth it really wasn't necessary.

 

[memphisnate]

Pics of house??

 

[ducatithunder]

Pics of house??

Good question. Simple 50's era ranch style house. These are really the only pics I have. The back is floor to ceiling sliders and windows on a large stone patio so I want to have a nice garage to look at.

I also dont want to have the garage front wall to be to high that can be seen from the front of the house being that is not very tall. The garage would be located on the back of my lot about 150 ft from the back of the house in a wooded area with a separate drive way off a side street. The lot is located on a corner with about 1.5 acres.

I have been playing around with the roof pitch calculator to see what the inside overheads will be at various distances off the back wall. The building is 28ft deep. That seems to be the only con I see is that if I want to have acquitted ceiling height for a loft Im going to have to either go 3/12 pitch with 9 ft rear wall (16ft front wall and 12'6" center line overhead) or start with a 10ft rear wall height and a 2/12 pitch (14'8" front wall and 12'4" center line overhead). I think with parallel pitch engineered trusses either of these pitches would be fine. I want 28 foot inside walls with 1-2 foot overhang in the front and a 1 ft overhang on the sides and rear.

Most of the stuff I work on are small euro sports cars. They are not long or very tall ... just wide. The tallest auto I would work on in the garage would be a F350 truck. I still with the ceiling height of 12 feet in the center would allow this anything to be put up on a lift. I also have another 4 post that would have no problem stacking the remainder of the fleet inside with 12ft ceilings.

 

[ducatithunder]

So I made up some scale models in sketch up last night. I did a 3/12 pitch on 10ft walls, a 2/12 pitch on 10ft walls, and ended with a 2/12 on 11 foot walls. I liked the last one and ended up making it 28x40ft in outside dimensions. I have attached the pics. I also was able to block out the inside with the storage loft I wanted and available overhead on top at the front, middle and rear of the enclosed space. I ended up with a 24x28 garage and 15x28 shop. The front is 2 9ft garage doors and 2 separate access doors on either side. Im not a pro ... well I started to play with sketch up last night, but I am definitely happy with the results. Overall height of the building with a 3 ft overhang in the front was about 17ft tall. I can definitely life with that.

Any advice or comments?

 

[Voi]

Overall height of the building with a 3 ft overhang in the front was about 17ft tall.

Any advice or comments?

I mentioned some details of my shed roof cabin in a previous reply. I forgot when I was writing it that the main reason we went with I-joists on 16" centers was to get 3' overhangs on our front eave. For what it is worth. 24" centers was fine for 2' overhangs and our snow loads but 16" allowed us 3' overhangs.

If I had spanned 28' with I-joists I would have required a center beam of some sort. I never even sized it and your snow loads are probably different so that info probably wouldn't help much. If we had spanned further I was going to use a dividing wall sort of like what you have drawn to break up that load.

My back and front walls are 9'8" and 13' respectively (2:12 pitch over 20'). The front wall and any gable studs over 12' were required to be engineered. I used LSL which ended up being expensive but worth it to get as much interior height as I could get.

Have you decided how you're going to insulate the roof? Are you doing an unventilated roof? I was advised I'd need very deep ventilation channels for my climate and that flat of a pitch. I regret not using SIPs but at a 28' span plus overhangs I don't think they're a practical choice for your project.

I liked your drafts and look forward to a build thread.

 

[Homerr]

Another here of this style:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73263&page=8

 

[ducatithunder]

Thanks.

I got the beams done last night. I spaced them at 16"OC. Came out to (32) 32Ft beams. I googled a ballpark price for the beams at Lowes. $178 a pop or a total of $5700 for the lot.

Also put in the wall studs. I did 2x6 studs so I can start to tally the cost of the lumber etc. Will probably stop by 84 lumber to see what engineered trusses will cost. Another alternative my father had mentioned was steel beams. Would be a lot less work but the cost might be more. That's another avenue to look into.







BTW ... This sketch up program pretty cool. Wish I new about it a couple years ago.

 

[FANTM58]

here is a rendering of the one I wanted to build, But the HOA
didnt like the roof line so I had to change it and the house to a
4/12 hip style roof line.

 

[bczygan]

Lot layout and photos including Google Earth?

Zoning and zoning restrictions?

HOA requirements?

Easements, utilities and topography?

Bill

 

[Pluribus]

Thanks.

I got the beams done last night. I spaced them at 16"OC. Came out to (32) 32Ft beams. I googled a ballpark price for the beams at Lowes. $178 a pop or a total of $5700 for the lot.

Also put in the wall studs. I did 2x6 studs so I can start to tally the cost of the lumber etc. Will probably stop by 84 lumber to see what engineered trusses will cost. Another alternative my father had mentioned was steel beams. Would be a lot less work but the cost might be more. That's another avenue to look into.

BTW ... This sketch up program pretty cool. Wish I new about it a couple years ago.

Your building width is the same as I would like to build, so I'm very curious about the comparison of costs and how best to build it. What are the "beams" you got the $178 quote on? Are they dimensional lumber (would be surprised,) LVL's, I-Joists...? Looking forward to seeing how they compare to engineered trusses, as well as how they will be attached. Are you figuring on any special hangers/seats for the different options? I'm guessing that some of these can't be bird's mouthed and require hangers.

 

[ducatithunder]

Lot layout and photos including Google Earth?

Zoning and zoning restrictions?

HOA requirements?

Easements, utilities and topography?

Bill

Zoning Im good to go. I can do a much bigger building but this size will suit me just fine. There power pole is in the back of the lot about 15ft to the right of the red shed. I plan on just running a line from the pole to the back corner of the garage. I do have a corner lot so I have a 45ft setback off the one side of the property. I had originally plan of having the garage on the hill but it involved get a variance with AA county and it was not worth it. My rear offset is 15ft off the back line. The main reason we got this house was the resto and the large lot.

I have no HOAs to deal with. My goal is to have something aesthetically pleasing to look at that would far exceed anything a HOA would. I dont want to be that guy in the neighborhood. All my boundary neighbors are on board with the building. After the previous owners we cant seem to do anything wrong.

The google earth shots are not up to date. When we bought this house there was wood up to about 50 ft off the back of the house. By woods I mean over growth and trees full of monkey vines. I had 1 year to clear it all out and put down 8000sqft of sod so we could have out wedding in our back yard. I was busy. A few months off at a time and anything is doable with a bobcat. The house was in pretty bad shape as the prior owners took care nothing. Crack den comes to mind, lol. But it is now one of the nicest houses in the neighborhood. It is def the nicest lot. Funny when people stop while driving by and tell you how much better it looks. Lots of sweat.




This is what the lot looked like when we bought the place.



Here is an up to date picture of the clearing so far. As you can see alot of the wooded area has been cleared and the 1.5 acres opened up alot. Sorry dont have a updated aerial shot.







View attachment 607501

 

[ducatithunder]

Your building width is the same as I would like to build, so I'm very curious about the comparison of costs and how best to build it. What are the "beams" you got the $178 quote on? Are they dimensional lumber (would be surprised,) LVL's, I-Joists...? Looking forward to seeing how they compare to engineered trusses, as well as how they will be attached. Are you figuring on any special hangers/seats for the different options? I'm guessing that some of these can't be bird's mouthed and require hangers.

Those were 2x12 LVL's I found for $178. I was curious if 32ft beams would even be available. I do like the idea of using steel trusses and will see how those compare to the LVL beams and parallel cord trusses. As for how they will attach to the top plate I will have to see what the plans call for. I dont need hurricane ties as I live in MD.

 

[Voi]

Your building width is the same as I would like to build, so I'm very curious about the comparison of costs and how best to build it. What are the "beams" you got the $178 quote on? Are they dimensional lumber (would be surprised,) LVL's, I-Joists...? Looking forward to seeing how they compare to engineered trusses, as well as how they will be attached. Are you figuring on any special hangers/seats for the different options? I'm guessing that some of these can't be bird's mouthed and require hangers.

Those were 2x12 LVL's I found for $178. I was curious if 32ft beams would even be available. I do like the idea of using steel trusses and will see how those compare to the LVL beams and parallel cord trusses. As for how they will attach to the top plate I will have to see what the plans call for. I dont need hurricane ties as I live in MD.

I found single slope roof I-joist hangers (I think in a post on this site) for I-joists but I think they were rated down to a 3:12 pitch. The labor involved in cutting blocking for the I-joists was much greater than we thought so the right hanger would have been appreciated. I'm still not sure if one exists for a 2:12 pitch.

I priced Glulams for our project as well. Long story short, it was actually cheaper to use larger Glulams on 8' centers than smaller ones 4' centers but we opted against this due to head room in our loft. We probably could have used Glulams on 10'8" centers and those hangers to hold perlins on edge but by this point I decided to keep in simple.

If either of you need the part number for those I-joist hangers post back and I'm pretty sure I can find it.

 

[ducatithunder]

I found single slope roof I-joist hangers (I think in a post on this site) for I-joists but I think they were rated down to a 3:12 pitch. The labor involved in cutting blocking for the I-joists was much greater than we thought so the right hanger would have been appreciated. I'm still not sure if one exists for a 2:12 pitch.

I priced Glulams for our project as well. Long story short, it was actually cheaper to use larger Glulams on 8' centers than smaller ones 4' centers but we opted against this due to head room in our loft. We probably could have used Glulams on 10'8" centers and those hangers to hold perlins on edge but by this point I decided to keep in simple.

If either of you need the part number for those I-joist hangers post back and I'm pretty sure I can find it.

Thanks for the advice on the glulams. Never heard of them. Just watched a video on them. Ill have to price those out. Seems like if I can get more coverage with less beams its a win win.

 

[bczygan]

Why don't you mimic the style of the house?

The horizontal bands of the roof and walls will cut down the visual height of the garage/shop and visually tie the house and garage/shop together.

Bill

 

[ducatithunder]

Why don't you mimic the style of the house?

The horizontal bands of the roof and walls will cut down the visual height of the garage/shop and visually tie the house and garage/shop together.

Bill

Thats the plan. It will mimic but still be its own entity as it set back farther then the house on the lot. It will look more at place with the house then a large pole building. We plan on updating the exterior of the house a little more to finish the mid century modern look and fit the garage perfectly. The garage will have exterior wainscotting similar to the house. I want a different roof break but will still fit the feature of the house. It will either be in a brick vernier or wood. The rest of the building will be horizontal ribbed metal similar to the orig plans I found.

There will be 3 separate bands to break up the front height of the building.

 

[Pluribus]

I found single slope roof I-joist hangers (I think in a post on this site) for I-joists but I think they were rated down to a 3:12 pitch. The labor involved in cutting blocking for the I-joists was much greater than we thought so the right hanger would have been appreciated. I'm still not sure if one exists for a 2:12 pitch.

I priced Glulams for our project as well. Long story short, it was actually cheaper to use larger Glulams on 8' centers than smaller ones 4' centers but we opted against this due to head room in our loft. We probably could have used Glulams on 10'8" centers and those hangers to hold perlins on edge but by this point I decided to keep in simple.

If either of you need the part number for those I-joist hangers post back and I'm pretty sure I can find it.

Thanks! I'm subscribing to this thread, so if I go that route, hopefully I can find your post and PM you for the info. My inclination is to go with a 3:12 pitch for mine, assuming I can use the snap lock style of roofing with that.

I have no HOAs to deal with. My goal is to have something ecstatically pleasing to look at that would far exceed anything a HOA would. I dont want to be that guy in the neighborhood. All my boundary neighbors are on board with the building. After the previous owners we cant seem to do anything wrong.

I might design it to be ecstatically pleasing for my girlfriend. The neighbors? Not so much.

 

[Voi]

Thanks! I'm subscribing to this thread, so if I go that route, hopefully I can find your post and PM you for the info. My inclination is to go with a 3:12 pitch for mine, assuming I can use the snap lock style of roofing with that.

https://www.strongtie.com/raftertowallconnectors_solidsawnlumberconnectors/vpa_connect/p/vpa

I'm not 100% this is the right one but it should get you started in the right direction.

For what it is worth, snap-lock or hidden fastener metal roofing for 3:12 pitch is pretty common.

 

[Voi]

Thanks for the advice on the glulams. Never heard of them. Just watched a video on them. Ill have to price those out. Seems like if I can get more coverage with less beams its a win win.

I would price building the roof several different ways. I like the look of exposed Glulams but they'll be tougher to lift and you might not want to give up that interior height.

One option that might be cool is a steel I-beam running the length of the building. I bought a tool box off a guy and he had one with a couple of different attachments on it, including one like a mini-crane/lift. I'm a bit under the weather this morning so I can't remember the exact term.

I looked on Menards website and see that they have 36' x 14" I-joists at $68 each. I doubt they'll be rated to free span your 28' building depth but the I-beam running lengthwise would split up that load.

https://www.menards.com/main/buildi...s/2-1-2-x-14-x-36-i-joist/p-1444435989232.htm

 

[ducatithunder]

Thanks! I'm subscribing to this thread, so if I go that route, hopefully I can find your post and PM you for the info. My inclination is to go with a 3:12 pitch for mine, assuming I can use the snap lock style of roofing with that.



I might design it to be ecstatically pleasing for my girlfriend. The neighbors? Not so much.

Yeah, funny autocorrect right? lol. I was looking at roofing. My inclination is to go standing seam but it is a $$$ more then a standard metal rib roof.

 

[Voi]

I was looking at roofing. My inclination is to go standing seam but it is a $$$ more then a standard metal rib roof.

I will try to post a picture of the roof from our cabin later this week.

I think it was about half the cost of standing seam and I'm sure I saved at least 50% on labor - it went up fast.

It's very modern looking. Not your typical pole barn roof by any means.

 

[ducatithunder]

I will try to post a picture of the roof from our cabin later this week.

I think it was about half the cost of standing seam and I'm sure I saved at least 50% on labor - it went up fast.

It's very modern looking. Not your typical pole barn roof by any means.

Thanks. That would be much appreciated.

I talked with a local outfit today about the beams. I was able to get info on the LVLs. I would have to double up 1-3/4x16" beams on 24" centers. They did not have the calcs for glulams. I have been playing phone tag with an engineer at the other supplier. He made it sound like he could give me what I needed to substitute the glulams for the beams. I guess I here more from him tmrw.

If I go glulams I should be able to drop go the SIPs route if I chose to. Funny how the slippery slope starts when you start adding options. Just another thing to price out.

 

[ndm]

Awesome link. Thanks! BTW here is part II is anyone is interested.

Interesting how he got the extra height by digging down. Wont work in my case as I need to have car access.

Yeah, I like his idea but I personally think that it is absolutely stupid to have that large of a shop with no access for a car to get into it. What happens if he were to want to move some day? The next owner may be a car guy and not a wood worker. That shop would be virtually worthless to me. I would have to buy a 4 post lift or something in order to use it for cars to get into the shop. It just does not make a hell of alot of sense to me. I always plan for me but also plan for the resale.

My second biggest worry is that a large rain or melting snow has easy access into the place because there is no curb or anything preventing entry.

 

[Voi]

I talked with a local outfit today about the beams. I was able to get info on the LVLs. I would have to double up 1-3/4x16" beams on 24" centers.

If I go glulams I should be able to drop go the SIPs route if I chose to. Funny how the slippery slope starts when you start adding options. Just another thing to price out.

Did you have them run the numbers with and without a lengthwise beam? I would make sure to do that.

As far as SIPs, as I understand things will get tricky with the 28' span. I would look into typical OSB SIPs as well as steel SIPs.

Your dimensions should play nice with them if the engineering is simple. The largest OSB SIPs I know of are 8' x 24'.

Since you'll need 36' to get your desired overhangs you could use one full length jumbo SIP and one half to get to the 36' length with minimal waste.

Your 40' length works out to an even multiple of 8'. If you want end overhangs of say 2' you could have one jumbo SIP ripped into to 4' wide sections. One of those full and the other cross cut to 12' will give you the extra 4' you need for 2' end overhangs, for example. You'll have a 4' x 12' section left over as waste but maybe that can be used somewhere elsewhere. I'd probably do something creative and make a noise-dampened compressor cabinet out of it.

SIP companies are not the easiest to work with on such details - I've dealt with two.

Lastly, did you mention ceilings in your original post? If that's still in the plan you could possibly have shed roof loft trusses built. I'll check my digital library and see if I still have a rendering of one.

 

[Voi]

Here is a skillion loft truss. Depending on your desired ceiling height, if any, you could add a raised heel at the back to get even more room upstairs if that's what you're looking for.

 

[ducatithunder]

Voi ... Thanks. The beam calcs where without any other supports. Just the front and rear wall. I thought about going hybrid and using a attic truss over where I want to enclose then going to the beams but I think a true attic truss will put my front wall higher then I would like due to have the loft height. One of the major design criteria's is to have it the front of the building no taller then 17-18ft.

The overall ceiling in the middle of the garage will be 13'4". That would be plenty for a lift or what ever I choose to do in the future. The loft overhead from the floor to the bottom of the beams is 6'5" at the front and about 4' in the middle of the shop. Ive attached a picture of the distances. I should end up with a 13'x16' loft that has head room of 6'5" and tapers down to about 4' at the back. The rest of the space on top of the enclosed shop will either get blocked off or Ill make a spot for pipe, metal, etc. That is all with a 8' ceiling height in the enclosed area and I made 12" for the joist in the floor. The floor for the lost is at 9'. There is still some wiggle room but it is still spit balling the design.

 

[Voi]

I thought about going hybrid and using a attic truss over where I want to enclose then going to the beams but I think a true attic truss will put my front wall higher then I would like due to have the loft height.

By my thoughts the loft trusses would save you some space since the upper and lower chords would be 2x4 or 2x6 at most. Of course the overall height would still be determined by where and how thick your insulation would be.

But whatever sickness I have is only getting worse so I'm probably overlooking something simple. And it's probably best to do it the same throughout.

Since it sounds like you want to maintain some interior height for a possible future lift I would think about that lengthwise beam not centered in the building. If you placed it so it was higher and the span over the beam was 8' to the front and 20' to the back you should be fine.

I throw out those numbers simply because when we were designing our cabin it was spans over 20' that started to get more complicated, at least for our snow loads.

You probably have half a dozen ways at least to do the roof. I'll be curious to see what works out best for you and your area.

 

[ducatithunder]

I throw out those numbers simply because when we were designing our cabin it was spans over 20' that started to get more complicated, at least for our snow loads.

You probably have half a dozen ways at least to do the roof. I'll be curious to see what works out best for you and your area.

I understand that 100%, lol. Im meeting with the truss guy tmrw. Im sure Ill know which route Im going and what I can and cant do with the span. If it starts to get weird or the $$$$ start to stack up then I still have the proven fall back of a Morton building.

 

[ducatithunder]

Since it sounds like you want to maintain some interior height for a possible future lift I would think about that lengthwise beam not centered in the building. If you placed it so it was higher and the span over the beam was 8' to the front and 20' to the back you should be fine..

No lengthwise beams ... only beams running fore and aft. The engineer I talked to today said that the 34' long doubled up LVLs would hold my areas snowload no problem. I did plan on only (1) 2x16x34 on 16" centers but it looks like with the span Ill have to double them up but can push it to 24" on center without any issues according to them. Total came out to (21) 3" wide LVL beams.

 

[ducatithunder]

Talked to the the engineer yesterday. LVLs were knocked out due to price. He designed a I joist that would work. 14" schedule 90 I joist on 16" centers. He mentioned if I did use SIPs then I could probally spread the beams further then 16" centers. No deflection with the 30psf load. My area is 20-25spf. Total came out to about 4K. LVL were over 7K. Still waiting to hear back from the glulam manufacturer. Im more curious what they come up with but leaning towards the beams. The one thing the engineer said that stuck with me about the glulams was if I wanted to have them exposed I would have to cut my 3ft overhang back. He said with that much overhang Ill have to have some boxing to support the roof edge. That was a deal breaker due to the extra expense and to loose the clean exposed look.

Spent a few hours getting the bobcat running again. Got 90% of the area cleared of the cut down stumps and ground cover. Now I can start laying out plans again with out trees and **** in the way.