rlitman
Well-known member
Damn! I think you found the one thing worse than a heater core. Who'd have thought it was a wiper motor?!?
Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"
- Thread starter HoosierBuddy
- Start date
Damn! I think you found the one thing worse than a heater core. Who'd have thought it was a wiper motor?!?
tonyciambrone
Well-known member
egnorant
Well-known member
I want to open a booth at SEMA called "Punch a Factory Engineer in the Face".
Bet I could charge $50 a swing and not even slow down for a few days.
When changing the heater core on my ****** I take advantage of the fact that the entire interior is removed to do a nice power wash of the seats and carpet. but I can change the timing belt in 19 minutes with my tire tool.
Bruce
Bet I could charge $50 a swing and not even slow down for a few days.
When changing the heater core on my ****** I take advantage of the fact that the entire interior is removed to do a nice power wash of the seats and carpet. but I can change the timing belt in 19 minutes with my tire tool.
Bruce
OP
HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
CN Spots
Well-known member
1999 Windstar 3.8L water pump replacement requires the engine to be lifted about 2 inches so that the bolts will clear the subframe.
Heater cores for most vehicles are PITAs.
Heater cores for most vehicles are PITAs.
Those were GRAVY! The gas station guys would not do them so the customers would bring them to the dealer. Had them lined up back in the day.
Most head lights now really ****. My 2007 Honda uses a H-4 bulb, all of 45 seconds to change on the side of the road in the dark!
MNSam
Well-known member
Battery replacement. Early 2000's Chrysler FWD cars. Jack up, remove wheel, remove splash guard, associated bracketry, replace battery. Seriously stupid design.
2000-2006 Toyota Tundra 4.7 V8 starters, located under the intake manifold. Yes you have to pretty much take off the top of the engine to replace it. I can't wait to do this job twice, I have 2 Tundras. Here's a internet pic for reference. This is a part that shouldn't be that buried to get to imho.
Attachments
Last edited:
OP
HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
mrycar
Well-known member
Same place as the starter for my Corvette ZR-1 (LT5)
stonesfan68
Well-known member
Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"
In order to replace the starter for the BMW N52 6-cylinder engine the intake manifold has to come off, too. Freaking ridiculous!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
In order to replace the starter for the BMW N52 6-cylinder engine the intake manifold has to come off, too. Freaking ridiculous!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
gnpenning
Well-known member
Ford diesel's post 7.3l. Unbolt cab and front end so it can be raised off of frame to replace injectors and many other types of minor engine work.
maxpower_hd
Well-known member
I had to do that to my wife's 1996 Sebring convertible. You beat me to the post.
lutter94
Well-known member
Re: Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"
Same goes for a Caddy Northstar.
Didn't realize so many did this.
Same goes for a Caddy Northstar.
Didn't realize so many did this.
LAROKE
Banned
I think the Northstar engine mentioned earlier is the same deal.
jgregt
Member
2008 Chevy Malibu headlights. Pop plastic plugs in the wheel well to expose some screws, then basically take the front end off to get the light house out. I watched a few Youtube videos -- otherwise I wouldn't have known where to start.
On the other hand, my Volvo, you open the hood, pull out long pin out and the headline assembly slides right out. About 60 sec. per headlight
My Volvo didn't come with a spare. I bought one for the trunk. My Cayman has no spare and doesn't even have an engine oil dipstick.
On the other hand, my Volvo, you open the hood, pull out long pin out and the headline assembly slides right out. About 60 sec. per headlight
My Volvo didn't come with a spare. I bought one for the trunk. My Cayman has no spare and doesn't even have an engine oil dipstick.
vavet
Well-known member
Sealed transmissions are pretty much the norm these days.
My 95 F150 heater core - super easy. Everything was access through the glove box.
Same truck 4.9L inline 6 cylinder engine thermostat housing - easy to access, easy to screw up. It was a cheap pot metal housing with only 2 bolts. Undertorque and it leaks, overtorque and you've snapped the ear.
BMW E65 (2002-2009 7 series), factory process to replace the low beam xenon bulb was to remove the front bumper cover. After doing it, you learn some shortcuts, but it's still not easy.
My 95 F150 heater core - super easy. Everything was access through the glove box.
Same truck 4.9L inline 6 cylinder engine thermostat housing - easy to access, easy to screw up. It was a cheap pot metal housing with only 2 bolts. Undertorque and it leaks, overtorque and you've snapped the ear.
BMW E65 (2002-2009 7 series), factory process to replace the low beam xenon bulb was to remove the front bumper cover. After doing it, you learn some shortcuts, but it's still not easy.
Re: Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"
Just goes to show people that car manufacturers don't want people to work/repair on their vehicles like they used to. It's a starter, its a consumable part that gets heavily used on a Toyota or any other vehicle for that matter. Lame location. Those that have to take off the front end of their car to change a bulb, well that ***** big time.
Just goes to show people that car manufacturers don't want people to work/repair on their vehicles like they used to. It's a starter, its a consumable part that gets heavily used on a Toyota or any other vehicle for that matter. Lame location. Those that have to take off the front end of their car to change a bulb, well that ***** big time.
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I cuss the engineer who designed the Subaru Tribeca lights.
Yes the are a pain in the ***, AND they go bad about every 6 months.
Subaru dealer wants $120 each to change them.
Yes the are a pain in the ***, AND they go bad about every 6 months.
Subaru dealer wants $120 each to change them.
Yup, my car too. You actually have to bend the poly bumper to get to 2 of the bolts hidden behind it.
And that. Actually have to remove 1 of the mounts, jack up the engine and use a lever to tilt the engine in order to get 1 valve cover off.
That too, on 4 of 'em.
My wife's Nissan Leaf manual says the same thing to replace the rear WINDSHIELD WIPER!!!
Last edited:
MNSam
Well-known member
Dodge Calibers too. Had to do an alternator replacement on the wife's back when we were just dating. Its like a 4 hour book time job iirc. Have to go in through the wheel well, remove the AC compressor and bracket to get it in and out. Worst part about the whole ordeal is that you don't have to do this replacement because of low output, you have to do it because the bearings in these alternators begin to groan so bad that you cant even drown them out with a radio in the car.
driftpin
Well-known member
I wondered who would post something like that. I believe there is a 1970's Maserati where the battery replacement also requires engine removal. Merak maybe?
http://ccs.dogpile.com/ClickHandler...D0A30F305CA5D422D8680BDF&ap=14&cop=main-title
http://ccs.dogpile.com/ClickHandler...D0A30F305CA5D422D8680BDF&ap=14&cop=main-title
None of you has a 993 model Porsche 911 huh? Oil change requires the rear wheel, fender liner and rocker panel cover be removed. The SECOND oil filter requires a lift, removing the heat exchange hoses and sometimes an oil return line.
I've gotten pretty good at it....I'm down to an hour and a half.
And don't even ask about getting to the 12th plug ..often shops "forget" to replace that one.
I've gotten pretty good at it....I'm down to an hour and a half.
And don't even ask about getting to the 12th plug ..often shops "forget" to replace that one.
kylerohde
Well-known member
My favorite is on the late 90's/early 2000's Dodge Stratus/Plymouth Breeze/Chrysler Cirrus. To get to the battery, you need to remove the front passenger wheel and wheel liner because the battery is behind it. Fantastic.
And the other fave is pretty much any sideways V6 that requires tipping the engine forward to even get to the spark plugs for the 3 cylinders near the firewall. Think that's true for lots of 90's/2000's GM cars, as well as my dearly-departed 2003 Mazda6.
And the other fave is pretty much any sideways V6 that requires tipping the engine forward to even get to the spark plugs for the 3 cylinders near the firewall. Think that's true for lots of 90's/2000's GM cars, as well as my dearly-departed 2003 Mazda6.
73-79 ford pickups. Heater core. Remove glove box. Remove ac ducts on pass side. Prop open blend door and remove squirrel cage from heater blower and set aside. Unbolt heater blower motor and remove. Remove screws holding ac heat eachanger and carefully move to rear of heater box. Remove screws holding heater core and pull out from behind ac heat exchanger while being careful not to damage exchanger or break seal on refrigerant lines. Reassemble in reverse order. Oh and remember all this work is done one handed through the 6x8 inch opening of the blend door laying on your back looking up at the bottoms of the dash. I've got this down to 8 hours.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
S/RConcepts
Well-known member
This one won it for me. I used to work at a Ford dealer and no matter what you tried to do, diesel would get everywhere. The frame wasn't even the bad part, it was the transmission crossmember when it started dripping- just happened to be right above the back of your neck at the time
Supergumby5000
Well-known member
Glad I read this thread so I saw this before posting the same thing.I have shared many curse-words with my former 6.no super duty.
Headgasket replacement on the same truck - Either pull the cab off or pull the front end apart to slide the motor forward.
engineer2
Well-known member
Opposite of a Worst Feature, couldn't do this today.
An old friend told me a back-in-the-day story about his 36-ish Chevy that developed a loud rod knock. He still had several hundred miles to get home and didn't want the rod to do more damage. As a Chevy mechanic, he had his tools with him, so he fixed it on the side of the road. Dropped the oil pan and other parts, removed the head and took out the offending rod and piston. Found a twig and tapped it into the crankshaft oil hole where the rod used to be. Put it back toeghter and drove home on 5 cylinders.
Same guy figured out how to change both head gaskets on a SBC in 30 minutes. Anything to beat flat rate at the dealer.
An old friend told me a back-in-the-day story about his 36-ish Chevy that developed a loud rod knock. He still had several hundred miles to get home and didn't want the rod to do more damage. As a Chevy mechanic, he had his tools with him, so he fixed it on the side of the road. Dropped the oil pan and other parts, removed the head and took out the offending rod and piston. Found a twig and tapped it into the crankshaft oil hole where the rod used to be. Put it back toeghter and drove home on 5 cylinders.
Same guy figured out how to change both head gaskets on a SBC in 30 minutes. Anything to beat flat rate at the dealer.
driftpin
Well-known member
I recall a story in Old Cars magazine about an elderly stovebolt 6 inline in a late 1940's Chevy sedan, that when the guy took the engine down in a car he bought which was still running, he found a piston crown lying in the bottom of the sump, I can't recall if it was in pieces, I'd expect so, to get past the rod & crank to the sump. You would expect the oil to get contaminated with fuel, and the crankcase to become pressurized but maybe the low compression worked in-favor of allowing the motor piston to run like that, 'headless.'
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
On the 2000 and up S10 blazers and XTremes, you have to undo the steering shaft to replace the 2nd plug back on the driver side. No way around it.
bwringer
Well-known member
How about proprietary OBDII codes?
Bastards.
Bastards.
Corndoggeh
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 2, 2016
- Messages
- 1,198
Hah! How about my 93 ranger's heater core?
1. Pull heater core tubes from the core
2. Pull out the glovebox, push in sides so it swings fully down.
3. Undo 2 screws on the black cover.
4. Pull out and then down to get the heater core out. Reverse steps to replace.
WHILE sitting on a chair comfortably on the side! And the guy I bought it from said it was going to take me 8 hours!
Last edited:
jboehm
Well-known member
Pretty much any engine that has a timing belt as a servicible part. They shoudl have designed it with a chain.
JJThrasher
Well-known member
A lot of cars have gone to removing the front bumpers for many repairs. Honestly after you're first few its not all that bad with a lift. Kind of like putting a fuel pump in a truck. Why bother dropping the tank when you can pull the bed? IMO the access panels through the wheel wells are pretty cool. Now the Chrysler products with the battery in the wheel well are a pain. The new Ford Escape battery is a royal pain. Same car the cowl has to be removed to put a coolant pressure tester on it.
Let's see,
Yep remember the Monza issue also remember cutting the fender well to get to the plugs.
Yep remember jacking a Motor on a 78 Chevy Camaro to replace pan and rear main seals oh and you had to had the number 1(? memory fail) piston in the up position to clear the journal.
Yep transverse mounted 6 in a 89 Grand Prix rear plugs lol went to the dealer I was not trying it .
Yep Subie's **** for head light bulb replacement 2014 imprezza you have to dismantle the inner fender and upper guards to do the "Helen Keller Method" of replacement.
I can say 99 Chevy truck had the easiest headlight replacement 2 pins pull up assembly out and new bulb back in 10 min flat. Which is good cause the DLR bulbs burnt out regularly . Take a look most of the Chevy Truck/SUV have one or the other DLR out. I do believe it is cause of the mount system allowing them to bounce around.
Pain in the *** for Chevy truck fuel pump book says drop tank etc doing it that way takes a few hours and risks the gas line connectors . Doing it the way a friend who was a GM Tech for years told me AFTER I did it the hard way was unbolt the bed and slide it back sigh what are friends for right.
Toyota Transmission fluid check ***** the process for refilling after change *****. I had it done no way was I trying it weird temp and check dance.
Worst job I ever did 1969 Pontiac Firebird Convertible Sprint Edition Heater Core change starts with .. remove passenger side fender ... ugg
Cypher
Yep remember the Monza issue also remember cutting the fender well to get to the plugs.
Yep remember jacking a Motor on a 78 Chevy Camaro to replace pan and rear main seals oh and you had to had the number 1(? memory fail) piston in the up position to clear the journal.
Yep transverse mounted 6 in a 89 Grand Prix rear plugs lol went to the dealer I was not trying it .
Yep Subie's **** for head light bulb replacement 2014 imprezza you have to dismantle the inner fender and upper guards to do the "Helen Keller Method" of replacement.
I can say 99 Chevy truck had the easiest headlight replacement 2 pins pull up assembly out and new bulb back in 10 min flat. Which is good cause the DLR bulbs burnt out regularly . Take a look most of the Chevy Truck/SUV have one or the other DLR out. I do believe it is cause of the mount system allowing them to bounce around.
Pain in the *** for Chevy truck fuel pump book says drop tank etc doing it that way takes a few hours and risks the gas line connectors . Doing it the way a friend who was a GM Tech for years told me AFTER I did it the hard way was unbolt the bed and slide it back sigh what are friends for right.
Toyota Transmission fluid check ***** the process for refilling after change *****. I had it done no way was I trying it weird temp and check dance.
Worst job I ever did 1969 Pontiac Firebird Convertible Sprint Edition Heater Core change starts with .. remove passenger side fender ... ugg
Cypher
GTA Matt
Well-known member
So I read every post so far, laughed a few times. Not too many things mentioned are actually difficult. I'd rather do a starter on a Northstar while staying clean and just bending over the engine then doing one from the bottom on some oil leaking shitbox. Toyota 4.7 starters are waaaaay easier then the 5.7's tucked under the exhaust manifold. The secondary air pump is under the intake too, again, an easy job. Bmw 6 cylinder starters can be done from the bottom in 5 minutes if you have swivel E-torx sockets, they pay great. No transmission is 'sealed', they're all serviceable, but if needing a special tool to fill them keeps the ding dongs out, then I guess mission accomplished. Even the cars that require bumper removal for headlight replacement are actually pretty easy.
I call BS on that! Done 100's of them, including the recall for replacing valve guide seals when they were brand new.
My short Craftsman hex head spark plug socket with a 5/8 wrench did the trick.
Made tons of hours on those just like the V-8 Monza spark plugs.
Attachments
Last edited:
donpauli2
Well-known member
Many Pontiac built engines 60s 70s had a similar problem for oil pan and front timing cover.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
WhiffySpark
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2009
- Messages
- 6,252
I was thinking the same thing reading half this stuff. We deal with this stuff daily yet people balk at the prices on here