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Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"

GTA Matt

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Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
3,148
Location
Zebulon, NC
I was thinking the same thing reading half this stuff. We deal with this stuff daily yet people balk at the prices on here :lol:

Lol, most of this stuff is childs play. Opportunistic outrage. I didn't see one mention of cylinder head removal for blower motor replacement (bmw), or engine removal for water pump replacement (toyota), and I still don't consider that stuff difficult.
 
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Kev442

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
5,386
Location
Wi
Nothing has changed. When I came of age, the first one I remember people screaming about was having to release a motor mount and jack the engine to do a starter on a V6 Mustang II. I think the 302 Mustang IIs had a spark plug from hell too, maybe the steering shaft or brake booster was in the way?

Of course the easiest starter in the world was on the Dodge vans we ran. Skinny me didn't even have to jack the van up! 15 minutes max.
 

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,270
Location
SE MI
Older (80's ? 90's ?) Jaguar sedan. Had rear inboard disc brakes. To install new brake rotors, you had to remove the exhaust and then take the entire rear axle assembly out.
 

Cobra5150

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
1,959
Location
GA
Chevy 4.3L fuel injection spider? Buddy of mine had to do it two or three times before it wouldn't leak or something. He cussed that truck and I had never heard him cuss before.
 

matt_i

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
10,752
Location
SE Michigan
Jacking motor oil oil pan is pretty normal. Malibu headlights are stupid

Yea, I'm up to 3 bulbs replaced now on the Boo...I see so many cars running around with 1 light out its like a new dealer profit harvesting thing or an OEM bean counter just trying to go past the warranty. I swear in the past I probably replaced a bulb every 10 years....

I also fought a good battle with my old 91 S-10 4wd, was partially engaged. The vacuum actuator was under the battery, so I would remove battery, check actuator, mess with stuff,, replace battery, restart truck, not fixed, remove battery again (lol) Eventually figured out it was the ball-bearing "vacuum switch" on the transfer case which was sucky and I think that was a very common problem as years went on.
 
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Dark Horse

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Messages
442
Location
West of Mad-town, USA
Mustang II thermostat on the 2.8v6 on the bottom, paper thin housing. everyone I saw had a "custom" ground nut glued to it. 302 was the brakebooster in the way

Oil Pan on any 4x4 Ford truck from 80-96 with the TTB. Lift the motor, Disconnect the exhaust and drop the oil pump into the pan to get it out.

Waterpump on the mid 90s Pontiac Grand Am with the quad 4s. Under the intake manifold behind the transmission.
 

tonyciambrone

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 4, 2015
Messages
1,152
Location
Northern Illinois
Pretty much any engine that has a timing belt as a servicible part. They shoudl have designed it with a chain.

Chains still stretch and there are plenty of vehicles known for broken and worn chain guides. Often the cover's for chain driven engines are tougher to access than a vehicle with a belt.

The only true solution is timing gears baby! Noise concerns be damned.
 

RivennHewn

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2011
Messages
10,385
Location
PNW
73-79 ford pickups. Heater core. Remove glove box. Remove ac ducts on pass side. Prop open blend door and remove squirrel cage from heater blower and set aside. Unbolt heater blower motor and remove. Remove screws holding ac heat eachanger and carefully move to rear of heater box. Remove screws holding heater core and pull out from behind ac heat exchanger while being careful not to damage exchanger or break seal on refrigerant lines. Reassemble in reverse order. Oh and remember all this work is done one handed through the 6x8 inch opening of the blend door laying on your back looking up at the bottoms of the dash. I've got this down to 8 hours.


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Talk you into do'n mine?
 

Ruger_556

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Messages
4,005
Wife's '12 GMC Acadia replace driving lamp necessitates removal of grill, etc. dealer labor $100. Decided to pay after watching YouTube video. Tax, shop parts, lamp, labor was ? $125.

No it doesn't, take 3 screws out of the inner fender and you can change them both in less than 5 minutes. Half the stuff people are complaining about are cake jobs.
 

Cypherian

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
1,197
Location
Delaware
So I read every post so far, laughed a few times. Not too many things mentioned are actually difficult. I'd rather do a starter on a Northstar while staying clean and just bending over the engine then doing one from the bottom on some oil leaking shitbox. Toyota 4.7 starters are waaaaay easier then the 5.7's tucked under the exhaust manifold. The secondary air pump is under the intake too, again, an easy job. Bmw 6 cylinder starters can be done from the bottom in 5 minutes if you have swivel E-torx sockets, they pay great. No transmission is 'sealed', they're all serviceable, but if needing a special tool to fill them keeps the ding dongs out, then I guess mission accomplished. Even the cars that require bumper removal for headlight replacement are actually pretty easy.

Lol, most of this stuff is childs play. Opportunistic outrage. I didn't see one mention of cylinder head removal for blower motor replacement (bmw), or engine removal for water pump replacement (toyota), and I still don't consider that stuff difficult.

I think the thread was more aimed at the poor engineering making basic repair tasks harder then they need to be. I am glad you can do this type of work so easily , I do not think most of us here are "Ding Dongs" for wanting to do our own work if possible. Perhaps if you would like to step into the shoes of others who do different jobs you may consider easy you might have your eyes opened. When was the last time you crawled inside an engine and attempted to remove fasteners that had been subjected to after burner temperatures (1800-2800 Deg F) to me it would be child's play to you I have good money that says you would not get 1 out in under an hour. Why different skill sets and knowledge . Oh and if you want to try it take a torch and heat a grade 8 mon/inc bolt to that temp call it for 300 or 600 hrs of run time. No standard gas or diesel engine exhaust bolts here that you can just torch or cut off they have to be drilled. The bolts and rivets used are made of an alloy of monel so find some and give it a try. Just something to think about from a Ding Dong who used to fix fighter air craft to undergo stress nothing you were working on would stand up to unless your on top fuel dragsters etc.

I was thinking the same thing reading half this stuff. We deal with this stuff daily yet people balk at the prices on here :lol:
We balk at the prices not so much that your knowledge or skill is not valued it is when we are charged for "Book" time when it is known it can be done in 1/4 of the time on the book. For Example look up my old 1999 Chevy 5.7 4x4 1500 according to the book then it was a 6 hour job at 90 bucks an hour plus 300 bucks for the part fuel pump. I bought the part oem gm from a whole sale place for ... 245 bucks. Now I followed the book way and it did take me more then 6 hours. Then comes along my friend who says nope we never did it that way un do the tail lights , bed bolts slide bed back change and done less then a hour. I am sure I am not the only one who has ever found out the book time may not be correct. I will give you that it probably is in WORST case time IE Scotty from Star Trek but hey what is wrong with charging the time it takes kick the car out of your bay get another going.

Want to know what happens when you work air craft you get asked estimate time to fix to include any paint or sealant cure you give a time. Once you get the repair done and your sealant Is on a 4 hour cure do you think you are done for the day...cause you got your 8 hours on the BOOK . Nope you move right on to the next job and the next till your day is over.

My grandfather was a Buick mechanic for 32 years I know he busted *** and had a lot of headaches caused by engineers / owners hell he retired in 77 and still did on call work for the Dealer as he could fix stuff even the engineers had no clue on what was up.

So in closing I am not denigrating your trade it is a ***** and expensive to be in but do not think people are fools or ding dongs for not knowing the easy way to do repairs when they do not do them every day. Nor be upset about customers bitching about cost cause again I would be willing to bet when ever you have had to pay a tradesmen or business to do something you couldn't you too thought it cost more then it should.

Rants done

Cypher
 

teamextreme

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2013
Messages
867
Location
Lakewood, CO
None of you has a 993 model Porsche 911 huh? Oil change requires the rear wheel, fender liner and rocker panel cover be removed. The SECOND oil filter requires a lift, removing the heat exchange hoses and sometimes an oil return line.

I've gotten pretty good at it....I'm down to an hour and a half.

And don't even ask about getting to the 12th plug ..often shops "forget" to replace that one.

You would have to REALLY love that car to put up with that kind of ordeal to change oil. 12th plug? They have 2 plugs/cylinder like the Dodge Hemi's?
 

Tim Kennedy

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Joined
Oct 16, 2011
Messages
368
I seem to remember that to change the battery in a 427 AC Cobra --- the right cylinder head had to come off first --- anyone out there know for sure?
 

zoepop

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
129
My non mechanical brother needed a headlight in his 2012 grand cherokee. Had to remove his intake and air box. On the positive side, we discovered a mouse had built a massive nest in the box. Car runs much better now
 

JasonMcElroy

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
379
Location
San Jose by way of Philly & NYC
Moral: the only way to get satisfaction from a VW dealer is to sue them.

True.

I sued them in 2014 over my lemon Touareg TDI. Ever see the website www.touaregsteeringshake.com? Gone now, but I had the facts front and center at every car review site I could find. They sent me a cease and desist letter. No thanks. I want my money. Eventually got every penny.

**** that company.

Jason
 

xjfish

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
1,303
MANY newer light autos have no engine oil dipsticks or especially transmission dipsticks (Yes there is a PITA procedure to check levels). Many differentials and transfer cases/PTO units have no drain plugs, only fill plugs. No engine is exempt from burning/leaking oil and most owners do not know how to check the level when relying on a level sensor and oftentimes when a concern arises, damage has already been done. :headshake

Some cabin air filters are also rather stupid to replace... I'm not going to get started on worst repair jobs...
 

WWheeler

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
I nominate the Ford Triton spark plugs that are essentially designed to separate and leave the end of the plug stuck down in the head so you have to spend ~$100 on a 'Ford Triton broken spark plug removal tool' and hope like hell you can successfully use it to get the stuck part of the plug(s) out and not leave any bits of the broken ceramic down in there.

2dh7n6d.jpg


There's a gazillion vids out there of sad saps trying to get those broken plugs out.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ford+triton+broken+spark+plug+&search=Search

It's not uncommon at all for guys to have 2, 4, even 6 or more plugs broken after attempting to change them, and with each one you have basically one good shot with the broken plug remover tool to get them out and when that doesn't work you're likely going to have to resort to pulling the heads.

Fortunately we eventually figured out the best way to get them is add a can of fuel treatment to the tank and go for a +1/2 hr highway drive to get get the motor good and hot and then as quick as you can remove the coil packs and zip the plugs out with an impact while the motor is still hot. I've done 4 plug changes now like that without breaking a single one of those ****** plugs.

Here's the guy I credit with showing us how to get them done without breaking them (lotta **** language to get the job done):

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XOVhhkC3A2c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Also a similar vid by FordTechMakuloco: The Best Method for Removing Ford 4.6L & 5.4L 3V Spark Plugs??

And Eric O. taking a crack at them:

South Main Auto: Ford F Series 5.4 3 Valve: Broken Spark Plug Removal
 
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bwringer

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Joined
Jan 1, 2013
Messages
10,322
Location
Indianapolis
Pretty much any engine that has a timing belt as a servicible part. They shoudl have designed it with a chain.



When I'm King of the World, I will outlaw timing belts that take more than 20 minutes to change, timing belts on interference engines, and water pumps run by timing belts.

It's just insane, lazy, and perhaps even malevolent engineering to entrust an entire engine on a passenger vehicle to a friggin' rubber band with teeth.


Speaking of insane, I never have figured out why Ford thought they needed to completely reinvent the spark plug, or why any fifth-grader couldn't have predicted the problems those stupid plugs would cause.
 
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padroo

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 25, 2011
Messages
564
Location
Chesterton, In.
I am one of the guys with a Prius with HID headlights and I can confirm the part about removing the front bumper cover. What makes me upset some ******* youtube changes one in ten minutes while she is shooting an unedited video with one hand. Lol The HID headlights have been the only major problem on my Prius with 100,000 miles. Best car I ever owned.
 

Sawdustmaker

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 15, 2017
Messages
928
Location
Placentia, Orange Co., California
Use to own a 1986 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer. Try changing a burnt out bulb in the instrument panel. The entire panel needs to come out, including heater controls and light switches. The bulb is supposed to be reached from the back of the panel if you have long arms with the diameter of Tinkerbell's. Replaced all of the bulbs (duh). Two years later another one burned out. let the next owner mess with it
 

Ancient Iron

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2012
Messages
1,195
Location
Nobody Knows
2000-2006 Toyota Tundra 4.7 V8 starters, located under the intake manifold. Yes you have to pretty much take off the top of the engine to replace it. I can't wait to do this job twice, I have 2 Tundras. Here's a internet pic for reference. This is a part that shouldn't be that buried to get to imho.

Great idea ... Lets cook the starter motor in the valley of the engine, Where it doesn't get any air circulation to cool down.:headscrat
 

fastbike02

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
501
Location
Walnut Grove MS
I call BS on that! Done 100's of them, including the recall for replacing valve guide seals when they were brand new.

My short Craftsman hex head spark plug socket with a 5/8 wrench did the trick.

Made tons of hours on those just like the V-8 Monza spark plugs.

I agree! it's a pain but no worse than the rear plugs on a v6 explorer
 

gtae07

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
2,985
Location
Fayetteville, GA
For years I have complained about Ford's placement of oil filters. My first Ford was a 1974 1/2 ton Ranger (when Ranger was a full size truck). Then a 1985, a 1991, a 1996, and now a 2008. All F-150's. The filter has increasingly been moved to a more out of the way, difficult to reach location and always directly above something for the oil to hit and flow in different directions.

The most recent, the '08, having to be accessed from the top to loosed and then move under the vehicle to take off. It also comes with a plastic "slide" to allow the oil to drain down, which it never actually does.
My 2005 is a pain in the rear, too. Not only does it have the same issue, but the 5.4L engine comes with two different oil filter threads (one is US, one is metric). You don't know which one you need till you get the filter off. Guess who thought his truck needed the "standard" US filter and wound up needing the metric one after all the oil was out?

Now, I did have a 2013 Cmax hybrid for a while and it was really easy--six screws to remove the fairing and the oil filter is right there. The only thing they could have done better was not have a structural bar behind the oil plug so I could get a socket on it (instead, a box wrench works).


Changing the alternator and clutch master cylinder on my 2003 Focus was a nightmare. The little hose clips for the clutch cylinder didn't want to go in and I almost lost one (making me very angry), but the alternator was actually more work.
 

WhiffySpark

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 22, 2009
Messages
6,252
MANY newer light autos have no engine oil dipsticks or especially transmission dipsticks (Yes there is a PITA procedure to check levels). Many differentials and transfer cases/PTO units have no drain plugs, only fill plugs. No engine is exempt from burning/leaking oil and most owners do not know how to check the level when relying on a level sensor and oftentimes when a concern arises, damage has already been done. :headshake

Some cabin air filters are also rather stupid to replace... I'm not going to get started on worst repair jobs...

I think it was a pilot where all data says to actually cut the bar out in front of the filter cover. There's no way around it lol.

5.4 plugs I don't mind doing.
 

GTA Matt

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
3,148
Location
Zebulon, NC
I think the thread was more aimed at the poor engineering making basic repair tasks harder then they need to be. I am glad you can do this type of work so easily , I do not think most of us here are "Ding Dongs" for wanting to do our own work if possible. Perhaps if you would like to step into the shoes of others who do different jobs you may consider easy you might have your eyes opened. When was the last time you crawled inside an engine and attempted to remove fasteners that had been subjected to after burner temperatures (1800-2800 Deg F) to me it would be child's play to you I have good money that says you would not get 1 out in under an hour. Why different skill sets and knowledge . Oh and if you want to try it take a torch and heat a grade 8 mon/inc bolt to that temp call it for 300 or 600 hrs of run time. No standard gas or diesel engine exhaust bolts here that you can just torch or cut off they have to be drilled. The bolts and rivets used are made of an alloy of monel so find some and give it a try. Just something to think about from a Ding Dong who used to fix fighter air craft to undergo stress nothing you were working on would stand up to unless your on top fuel dragsters etc.

We balk at the prices not so much that your knowledge or skill is not valued it is when we are charged for "Book" time when it is known it can be done in 1/4 of the time on the book. For Example look up my old 1999 Chevy 5.7 4x4 1500 according to the book then it was a 6 hour job at 90 bucks an hour plus 300 bucks for the part fuel pump. I bought the part oem gm from a whole sale place for ... 245 bucks. Now I followed the book way and it did take me more then 6 hours. Then comes along my friend who says nope we never did it that way un do the tail lights , bed bolts slide bed back change and done less then a hour. I am sure I am not the only one who has ever found out the book time may not be correct. I will give you that it probably is in WORST case time IE Scotty from Star Trek but hey what is wrong with charging the time it takes kick the car out of your bay get another going.

Want to know what happens when you work air craft you get asked estimate time to fix to include any paint or sealant cure you give a time. Once you get the repair done and your sealant Is on a 4 hour cure do you think you are done for the day...cause you got your 8 hours on the BOOK . Nope you move right on to the next job and the next till your day is over.

My grandfather was a Buick mechanic for 32 years I know he busted *** and had a lot of headaches caused by engineers / owners hell he retired in 77 and still did on call work for the Dealer as he could fix stuff even the engineers had no clue on what was up.

So in closing I am not denigrating your trade it is a ***** and expensive to be in but do not think people are fools or ding dongs for not knowing the easy way to do repairs when they do not do them every day. Nor be upset about customers bitching about cost cause again I would be willing to bet when ever you have had to pay a tradesmen or business to do something you couldn't you too thought it cost more then it should.

Rants done

Cypher
No, much of this thread has been guys complaining about stuff they have never done, just heard about them. Again, opportunist outrage, omg! they put the starter where!? those stupid engineers. Whereas if they had done the job, the would say "that was easy! so much nicer then laying on my back or removing exhaust manifolds. That area of the engine is actually cooler then right behind the catalytic converters. Smart engineers." Everyone wants more power in a smaller, lighter, more efficient package. Sometimes that means the headlights are covered by the bumper.....which is easier to remove then the crusty trim rings and stripped screws on those old halogen sealed beams. Sorry if my ding dong comment offended. Ill try to be more PC the next time some idiot puts something other then atf inside their transmission.

And 6 hours for a fuel pump on a gmt400!? What shop? Are they hiring? Book time is 2.1. And I never pull beds, usually quicker to drop the tank. You talk about mechanics getting jobs done faster then book time, what if I got rid of all my time saving tools? Would you be willing to pay more if the job now took longer?

And as for your last comment, you will never hear me complain about paying for work from someone else. I'll usually tip them or bring them something to drink, etc. I understand the cost of doing business and can't stand it when people try to beat me up over price. I'll tell them to go do it themselves, then complain about how hard it is on the internet.
 

ozyborn

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2011
Messages
687
2000 Acura RL low bean headlight replacement. Not only does the service manual have you removing the bumper but high voltage as well. No shop around here will touch it, only the Acura dealer will work on it and that is an hour away.
 

GTA Matt

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
3,148
Location
Zebulon, NC
2000 Acura RL low bean headlight replacement. Not only does the service manual have you removing the bumper but high voltage as well. No shop around here will touch it, only the Acura dealer will work on it and that is an hour away.
I'm looking right at it. Low beam is .6, remove 1 torx bolt holding the cover on behind the bulb. Whole capsule replacement requires bumper removal, and you must have some downright ****** shops around you if no one will do it.
 

timbitca

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
966
Location
Moncton, NB, Canada
Can't remember the exact procedure, but I remember it took me and a mechanic 2 hours to replace a battery on my Mom's '01 Aztek she had. That should be a 10-minute parking lot job.
 

exranger06

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2015
Messages
1,686
Location
CT
Changing front brake rotors on a 90's Honda. Remove caliper, remove axle nut, pop the lower ball joint loose, slide the CV axle out of the bearing, remove the bolts holding the bearing/hub to the knuckle (which are on the back side of the knuckle), pound the bearing/hub out of the knuckle, and finally unbolt the rotor from the hub. Installation is the reverse of that. Thankfully rotors and hubs from an Acura CL (which have "normal" easy to replace rotors) are a direct bolt-on replacement. I did the conversion to my 92 Accord so I never have to deal with that **** again.
 

phred

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 23, 2009
Messages
527
Location
NC
I seem to remember that to change the battery in a 427 AC Cobra --- the right cylinder head had to come off first --- anyone out there know for sure?



Nope battery is in the trunk


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

dave89iroc

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2015
Messages
706
Location
outside Detroit, Michigan USA
I recall a story in Old Cars magazine about an elderly stovebolt 6 inline in a late 1940's Chevy sedan, that when the guy took the engine down in a car he bought which was still running, he found a piston crown lying in the bottom of the sump, I can't recall if it was in pieces, I'd expect so, to get past the rod & crank to the sump. You would expect the oil to get contaminated with fuel, and the crankcase to become pressurized but maybe the low compression worked in-favor of allowing the motor piston to run like that, 'headless.'

carburated, so relied on the vacuum of the piston going down to draw in the mixture, compromised piston=no suction
 
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