Nomination for "Worst Automotive Maintenance Feature Ever"
- Thread starter HoosierBuddy
- Start date
Was ist los mit das?
robalmal
Well-known member
Do you guys heater cores leak that quickly? Over here in Australia, a car would be at least 15 years old or even more before having heater core problems. Must be poor quality cores .
JRC3
Well-known member
Just because there are manual directions for replacement doesn't mean the part fails the year the manual was written. You're either trollin' hard or lacking common sense. I hope it's a troll.
bwringer
Well-known member
Aaarrgggh, yes. And of course the ditzy steering wheel holder has thrown out the owner's manual in order to make more room for McDonald's napkins in the glovebox...
Oh, lawsy, yes. Let's see, the world has billions upon billions of miles of experience with these standard fluids. Several consistent, high-quality brands are available everywhere at reasonable prices.
Nah, let's toss all that out and get Earl to mix up something special in the shed out back. We'll charge twenty bucks a quart at the dealer. What could go wrong?
Hey, it's your chance to learn what "scheinwerfer" means.
Aaaaarrggggghhh. Yes, let's make sure the rest of the engine will fail when (not "if" -- "WHEN") the water pump craps out. Instead of a proper mechanical seal or even a double seal, give it one crappy five cent single lip rubber seal. And Chinesium bearings, just to make sure it wallows out quickly.
Badly engineered plastic engine parts: one of my pet hatreds.
Congrats -- you saved five cents per engine by making a highly stressed engine part out of ground up milk jugs. Injection molds are expensive -- just go ahead and use the same mold you used when the part was aluminum. It'll probably make it past the warranty.
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JRC3
Well-known member
I got lucky, the pump shaft seal failed and the weephole well above the pump actually worked. That was the best engineered scenario.
robalmal
Well-known member
No one is trolling. I assumed that this person had actually replaced said heater core..
JRC3
Well-known member
I recall 3 heater cores in my lifetime and those were at least 15 years. Radiators not so long.
robalmal
Well-known member
I recall 3 heater cores in my lifetime and those were at least 15 years. Radiators not so long.
Me too..It has been many years since I last did one.At my age, unless it is my car, I think I would be tempted to subcontract the job to my local radiator specialist who does this work.
Again, this thread seems to have many hard to do jobs that we will never have to do.
JRC3
Well-known member
Funny, this was a resent post. (By me) http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6317538&postcount=23
Sawdustmaker
Well-known member
Now I understand why there are so many vehicles in town that run their brights because one of their low beams are out.
Since the topic of hard oil filter placements has been brought up. Can anyone beat the Tacoma v6 placement? I love it.
Reminds me of the early 1960's Ramblers. The oil filter sat perfectly vertical on an ill placed flange.
Sawdustmaker
Well-known member
Heater core on a 1999 F-150. Check it on YouTube
GTA Matt
Well-known member
Heater core failures haven't been an uncommon failure on newer cars, especially the domestics. QC on those parts definitely isn't where it should be.
Out of all the heater cores, that's the hard one? There's the s500 that calls for 24 hours labor, newer dodge and ford small cars that pay **** and require both front doors to come off, the aforementioned Camaro that requires the windshield be removed, even the prius, with its anaconda sized wire harness wrapped around the dash bar and **** pay didn't get a nomination? I've shared the f150 heater core how to on this site before. It's brilliantly engineered actually, for a behind the dash core. A few screws and the dash is pulled forward, the top half of the case comes off and you pull the heater core out.Heater core on a 1999 F-150. Check it on YouTube
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fastjohnny
Well-known member
6.5 diesel starter, injector pump
Early duramax injectors
Volvo xc 90 2.5T a/c compressor
Early duramax injectors
Volvo xc 90 2.5T a/c compressor
Hilltopmasonry
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- Oct 12, 2015
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- 2,172
My 01 Hyundai sonata needed to pull the intake off to change to spark plug wires on the side next to the firewall...they started arcing at 60,000 miles..cost me almost a grand to replace the plug wires
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chris142
Well-known member
Who else hated chevette starters? Slant6 bypass hose. 289 thermostat housing lower bolt.3.1L spark plugs on the rear head. To name a few.
bwringer
Well-known member
Chevette everything sucked, really. Those things were made of hate.
It's hard for younger people to understand what a revolution Toyota and Honda vehicles were in the '70s and '80s. The chasm between a Chevette and a Civic was miles wide.
Doug Arthurs
Well-known member
I just saw a chevette on the highway yesterday. Thought they had all gone to the big scrapyard in the sky.
Hilltopmasonry
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Yea after 80 years in business I never could understand why the big 3 had the biggest boneheaded designers figuring out their cars in that period...they were some of the most unfriendly cars to work on and just plain junk...period
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LAROKE
Banned
In the eighties when I wrecked an Olds Ciera company car, the comptroller punished me by getting me an already beat-to-death Chevette rental while my company car was being repaired.
chris142
Well-known member
I have a friend that collects and drives Diesel powered Chevetts! He gets 58mpg out of them! The isuzu injection pump is worth more than 4 chevetts.
Angelfire
Well-known member
Not sure it's necessarily a "maintenance" feature but my 1995 Jeep Wrangler is covered in torx bolts particularly at the hinge for the windshield, door hinges, hood, etc.... Getting them out is a lesson in futility as they must have used a pretty soft material and they often just strip out. I replaced them all with hex drive bolts and it's much easier now to remove the doors/hood/etc....
Cheers.
Cheers.
1996 VW Jetta - Try to find the OBD connector... I assume other years and VWs with the same interior have it hidden in the same place. Once you find it, it's pretty convenient. But before you know where it's hidden, it's pretty frustrating, lol.
OP
HoosierBuddy
Well-known member
Hey Skidoo...hesitant as I am to call "BS" on you...I'm calling BS on you.
Please post a short (120 second) video of you changing the driver's side lowbeam on a 2014 Outback. I especially want to see the magic ONE CLIP you remove to get the inner fender down.
If I'm wrong...I'm wrong....but having just done this job...I don't think I am. I fully appreciate that it can be done with the wheel on, if you know what to feel for...but taking the wheel off gives better visibility so for a novice...it likely saves time.
Phil
rlitman
Well-known member
Again, I did this some time last year, and only once, so my memory is hazy, but I recall pulling two or three clips after turning the wheel. I didn't remove the fender cover, just bent it out of the way. I did have to do everything by feel, but I'm ok with that.
dave89iroc
Well-known member
I see this thread derailing from its original intent from "basic" maintenance like changing bulbs, batteries, spark plugs and fuses and other consumable parts that often fail/wear out and that are carried by local auto parts stores(O'relley's and Autozones) that the DIYer can do in his driveway, not his work bay with specialty tools and resources like ALLDATA. If you work in a shop to get cars back to their customers in a timely fashion then good for you, do your job the way you were trained and went to school for, you're getting paid. If you have shortcuts to get the job done correct then pass it on or take an extra .5 on your lunch. The DIYer or shade tree mechanic is just saving a buck and maybe wants to get self satisfaction and learn about their vehicle they put their families in. If it's a job the DIYer can't tackle or don't want to then take it to an ASE certified shop and pay for the service. My personal experience with changing starters was coming from 60's-80's V8's and 22RE's so my Tundras threw me a curveball when I looked for the damn thing, thats why i nominated it.
Kinda, you pull out the ash tray, then slide a blank plate that's beside the ashtray over. Here's a video of somebody revealing it (not my video):
Glad I read this thread so I saw this before posting the same thing.
I have shared many curse-words with my former 6.no super duty.
Headgasket replacement on the same truck - Either pull the cab off or pull the front end apart to slide the motor forward.
But on the plus side. Add a fumoto drain valve and the cartridge oil filter on top of the engine made for the easiest oil change I've ever had!
And yes that fuel filter placement sucked, there was no way possible to not get fuel all over while you changed it.
Worst oil change is my current toy a RZR S1000. Oil filter is on the front of the engine tucked behind plastic. Which isn't so bad. But the fact the filter is on an angled surface with no oil catch or drain channels to divert the mess. You spill oil all over the side of the engine and anything in its path.
yukon65006
Well-known member
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- 219
2004 BMW F650GS Oil change. 1. Remove front turn signals!
bwringer
Well-known member
Egads. We have laws against cruel and unusual punishment.
Maybe we should just go ahead and give the "worst maintenance" (or worst everything) award to one of the gawdawful GM letter platforms of the '80s. I'd nominate the FWD X-platform.
Excuse me, a have a bout of PTSD coming on from the memories of trying to keep those turds alive. I still have the scars on my hands and my soul...
aka Larry
Well-known member
The oil filter on the NA (1st gen) Miata is a PITA too. Can be accessed from both the top and bottom, but either way it makes a mess. Oil pools in the cross member and it seems to drip out of there forever. Some owners actually cram a disposable diaper in there in a attempt to catch the mess.
The rest of that car though is well designed. One of the easiest ever to work on, though they hardly ever have a problem. I sold mine after 10 years and 170K miles with virtually no real issues.
The rest of that car though is well designed. One of the easiest ever to work on, though they hardly ever have a problem. I sold mine after 10 years and 170K miles with virtually no real issues.
texasranger
Well-known member
Not so much a design complaint but on my BMW E90 you can't even buy the clip that holds the headlight in without buying the complete headlight assembly...$200+. Luckily the bulb stays pointed fairly level if the clip is left off like mine has been and is now.
I'll be changing the starter soon, will be curious of the swivel e-torx trick mentioned here will work...already bought the PCV tube and replacement bolts to remove the intake.
I know on the E90 AWD automatics getting trans oil back in is a lot of fun. Remove front drive shaft.
I'll be changing the starter soon, will be curious of the swivel e-torx trick mentioned here will work...already bought the PCV tube and replacement bolts to remove the intake.
I know on the E90 AWD automatics getting trans oil back in is a lot of fun. Remove front drive shaft.
Reg1952
Well-known member
After 35 years of doing most of the repairs mentioned in this thread everyday. I still call all these things job security.
Changing a headlight bulb on a 2007 Nissan Maxima is the same procedure as that Outback. I've done one of those before.
Changing a battery on a Chevy Equinox or GMC Terrain -
The ECM is mounted to the top of the battery. First step is unplugging the 3 large electrical connectors and remove a bolt and remove the ECM. Then you can unbolt the battery hold-down bracket, but oh wait - one of the bolts is underneath a plastic trim piece. Remove several plastic clips and flip the plastic trim up to get access to the other bolt. Now you can loosen the battery cables. Make sure to disconnect the negative side first, 'cause the positive terminal is about .003 inches away from the metal battery tray, which is grounded to the chassis. Now you can finally lift the battery out. They're such garbage vehicles.
Go change one in any GM FWD car from the 80's till 2000 or so. They hide them suckers and make them have 1/4" room to get it out. My fav are the ones under the washer fluid bottle and the minivans that require more effort than the gmc terrain.
If you think those are bad, go change one in a newer ford escape. Wipers gotta come off and you gotta remove the cowl. Or take apart the complicated airbox with 300 bolts and nuts and snaps.
GTA Matt
Well-known member
I don't keep track of year, 3 series, 5 series, manual or auto when I do them, some I use the swivel e-torx with another swivel socket and long extension to get the top bolt loose, some I use a regular 12 point box wrench that fits the e-torx head and reach up to crack the bolt loose and some require a stubby wrench and creativity. I have e-torx wrenches, but they are zero offset and will not fit. Once the bolts are cracked loose, they usually unscrew easily by hand. To get the battery cable off the starter lug, on some I can get a long 1/4" extension and swivel socket through the front intake runners and take it loose. Others I can drop the starter down and get to it from the bottom. You'll have to remove the line off the breather tube going into the oil pan, and it takes a bit of twisting and turning, but the starter does come out. I do not recall doing a starter on a 335, so those may or may not be doable from the bottom. I replaced an oil pan on an awd e60 today (rf axle broke, took out the extension housing and cracked the pan) and looked at the starter, not a chance it would come out the bottom on that. I have taken them out the bottom on the older awd cars however.
I was in the local Ford dealer a few years ago visiting a buddy who worked there. I was amazed to see a new explorer in a stall with the whole body raised up about a foot of so off the chassis. I asked what was going on with that one. He said it was much faster to do head work on one of those with the 5.4 v8 than fighting the close,or no, space under the hood. The back cylinders sit under the firewall on those.
livinlife
Well-known member
My wifes 03 eclipse spyder v6 is the same.....and its running rough till warm when damp out. Guess where a chunk of my tax return is going. I do most of my own repairs, but at 58, I don't have enough cuss words left for that job.
couch67
Well-known member
Pretty much every feature on my wife's 09 Mazda 5. Not sure what is the most annoying, I'd pick either the spring clip retainers for the headlights, or that you have to remove the bottom skid pan to access the oil filter (which is an oddball cartridge type).
The rear struts last about 12 months before they get noisy again. Tried multiple brands without success.
The back brakes, when cold, make an earth shattering squeal when braking in reverse. Different pads and rotors have done the same thing, this is a common problem with this car.
Unlike my honda (which I posted in the best maintenance feature thread), when the washer fluid light comes on you can only get about 3/4 of a jug into the damn reservoir. A little detail that sticks it to you every time you end up having to put the 1/4 full container back in the garage.
This is one car I really can't wait until its gone. A few years left to drive it into the ground.
The rear struts last about 12 months before they get noisy again. Tried multiple brands without success.
The back brakes, when cold, make an earth shattering squeal when braking in reverse. Different pads and rotors have done the same thing, this is a common problem with this car.
Unlike my honda (which I posted in the best maintenance feature thread), when the washer fluid light comes on you can only get about 3/4 of a jug into the damn reservoir. A little detail that sticks it to you every time you end up having to put the 1/4 full container back in the garage.
This is one car I really can't wait until its gone. A few years left to drive it into the ground.
rwilner
Well-known member
Air filter on an 84-89 Porsche 911 3.2.
You had better have a good relationship with your wife, because only tiny, delicate fingers have a snowball's chance of getting those rear two bailing wire clips snapped on.
Pretty much everything else in that car is pretty damn easy though. I was able to rebuild the entire suspension on jackstands in my one car garage with simple hand tools.
Talk to me again after I go through an engine rebuild though...
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You had better have a good relationship with your wife, because only tiny, delicate fingers have a snowball's chance of getting those rear two bailing wire clips snapped on.
Pretty much everything else in that car is pretty damn easy though. I was able to rebuild the entire suspension on jackstands in my one car garage with simple hand tools.
Talk to me again after I go through an engine rebuild though...
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