What I've been testing (QUICKJACK by Ranger Products)!

[stelthy77]

I have seen on other forums that people are using a 72 inch 2x6. I am not recommending it, but it seems to work for them. BMW m5's and Honda Odysseys, not maxing out a 7000 load.

I was just looking and can't find any definitive answer on face loading a 2x6 like this. The weight of the car is only a few inches on either side from the quickjack, the board doesn't look like it is bending in pictures.

 

[tool_enthusiast]

No frame, just plate.

Thanks for the pics Eddie777. That really helps a lot. So looks like your diamond plate is likely 1/8" which is the thickness I'm planning on using. Also good to know a whole frame is not needed.

Before I commit to building (once I can find a welder), I will try a 6 ft long 2x8 wood as suggested by stelthy77. A 2x8 is actually 1.5" x 7.25" which is practically the same dimensions I would have built this adapter with. I'd imagine a 2x8 compared with a 2x4 would be stronger due to having more surface area. The QuickJack model I have is the BL-5000SLX, so I don't plan on putting any car over 5000 lbs on it. I figure if each end of the 2x8 sticks out 6", it should be plenty strong to hold 1250 lbs max (assuming the maximum weight per corner of an evenly distributed 5000 lb load). I'll confirm it (with pictures) once I get a chance to cut the two 8 ft long 2x8s I bought down to 6 feet.

 

[MarlynOC]

Jim09 and RayCal
Do you still have the 3500's and are they working OK for you? Wanted to get a 3500 for my Healey 3000. Weight of car is 2450 lbs and about same width as your Cobras. Anyone else used them and comments?

 

[tool_enthusiast]

Thanks for the pics Eddie777. That really helps a lot. So looks like your diamond plate is likely 1/8" which is the thickness I'm planning on using. Also good to know a whole frame is not needed.

Before I commit to building (once I can find a welder), I will try a 6 ft long 2x8 wood as suggested by stelthy77. A 2x8 is actually 1.5" x 7.25" which is practically the same dimensions I would have built this adapter with. I'd imagine a 2x8 compared with a 2x4 would be stronger due to having more surface area. The QuickJack model I have is the BL-5000SLX, so I don't plan on putting any car over 5000 lbs on it. I figure if each end of the 2x8 sticks out 6", it should be plenty strong to hold 1250 lbs max (assuming the maximum weight per corner of an evenly distributed 5000 lb load). I'll confirm it (with pictures) once I get a chance to cut the two 8 ft long 2x8s I bought down to 6 feet.

Today I tried a couple 72" long 2x8 douglas firs I picked up from Home Depot. I didn't hear any wood cracking and it seemed strong enough to hold up my Odyssey. However, I could definitely see the 2x8 flexing along the center. The uploaded pictures might not show it easily, but the flexing is there. I'm thinking if I could get a strip of 72" x 5" 1/8" steel plate and screw it down all along the top of the 2x8, it can actually be a working solution. The 72" long 2x8 weighs around 17 lbs and according to one calculator, a 72" x 5" steel plate would weigh about 13 lbs, so it won't be too heavy overall.

 

[stelthy77]

Today I tried a couple 72" long 2x8 douglas firs I picked up from Home Depot. I didn't hear any wood cracking and it seemed strong enough to hold up my Odyssey. However, I could definitely see the 2x8 flexing along the center. The uploaded pictures might not show it easily, but the flexing is there. I'm thinking if I could get a strip of 72" x 5" 1/8" steel plate and screw it down all along the top of the 2x8, it can actually be a working solution. The 72" long 2x8 weighs around 17 lbs and according to one calculator, a 72" x 5" steel plate would weigh about 13 lbs, so it won't be too heavy overall.

It is definitely flexing, that is a bummer, I was hoping to use this method.

What about angle iron on either side of the bottom? Might weigh less and provide a strong counter to the flex, due to the angle.

Thanks for testing this out, I have an odyssey that I will be lifting with a Quickjack, that is on the way now.

 

[tool_enthusiast]

It is definitely flexing, that is a bummer, I was hoping to use this method.

What about angle iron on either side of the bottom? Might weigh less and provide a strong counter to the flex, due to the angle.

Thanks for testing this out, I have an odyssey that I will be lifting with a Quickjack, that is on the way now.

I didn't think about angle iron, but that could be a good idea. I just thought of another way to strengthen the 2x8. I can buy two 72"x2" readily available Everbilt 1/8" thick steel plate at Home Depot and run my circular saw along the middle of the sides of the 2x8 (2 inches deep) and then insert the plates on both sides. If this works well, I'd want to experiment using 2x8 redwood which is a lot lighter than fir.

 

[tool_enthusiast]

I didn't think about angle iron, but that could be a good idea. I just thought of another way to strengthen the 2x8. I can buy two 72"x2" readily available Everbilt 1/8" thick steel plate at Home Depot and run my circular saw along the middle of the sides of the 2x8 (2 inches deep) and then insert the plates on both sides. If this works well, I'd want to experiment using 2x8 redwood which is a lot lighter than fir.

I tried reinforcing one of the 2x8s with 1/8" thick 1.25" x 72" long steel flat bars. I placed one bar on each side of the 2x8 and screwed them down 6" apart along the whole bar on each side (using 2.5" long screws). No difference; the deflection appears to be the same, if not a smidge better. Then I tried placing an additional block on the center between jack points. This seems a lot more solid because the center gives the extra support. But the area between the center and the front end still show very small amount of deflection.

For the Odyssey, anywhere between the front and rear jack points is a strong pinch weld so this additional block solution can work, but I'm sure it won't work for all cars. However, I'm still skeptical about the slight deflection of the wood and will always feel a little weary about it so I'll proceed with ordering some steel and getting someone to weld it. Once I get a successful adapter, I will post the exact specs that works.

Based on what I can see, I'm pretty convinced a 2x8 can work fine for lighter cars maybe 3,500 lbs or less. But then again, if the car is that light, chances are it fits the QuickJack BL-5000SLX's 60" span without the need for an adapter (or just needs an extra 2-3 inches at most). For those who are just inches short with a car of average weight, you can easily trust a 2x8 (cut to your desired size).

Eddie777, I suppose you haven't tried a car as heavy as the Odyssey (around 4,500 lbs) have you?

 

[MarlynOC]

The think I am concerned with is that the Healey weighs just under 2500 lbs but the engine is over 600 of that weight so how far forward could I support to offset that front end with the "ramps"?

 

[tool_enthusiast]

The think I am concerned with is that the Healey weighs just under 2500 lbs but the engine is over 600 of that weight so how far forward could I support to offset that front end with the "ramps"?

I'm not sure what a Healey looks like, but if it's shy under 2500 lbs, it is likely going to fit the QuickJack BL-5000SLX as-is, or just be a tad long (between jack points). If a tad long (say 65"), the front end of the 2x8 can rest completely on the QuickJack and just 5 inches come off the other end for the rear jack point. You're only other concern is to measure out the distance between the front and back tires to make sure the 72" long BL-5000SLX model (when folded flat) will fit before lifting.

 

[tool_enthusiast]

I'm not sure what a Healey looks like, but if it's shy under 2500 lbs, it is likely going to fit the QuickJack BL-5000SLX as-is, or just be a tad long (between jack points). If a tad long (say 65"), the front end of the 2x8 can rest completely on the QuickJack and just 5 inches come off the other end for the rear jack point. You're only other concern is to measure out the distance between the front and back tires to make sure the 72" long BL-5000SLX model (when folded flat) will fit before lifting.

Now I noticed you posted earlier and said you wanted a QuickJack 3500 series which has a 50.5" max span for jacking points. I didn't mention in my previous posts, but I also tried putting the front end of the 2x8 almost flush to the front of the QuickJack and let about 10" stick out on the rear to hit the Odyssey's jack point. The result looked about the same in terms of deflection. It held up otherwise. I'd imagine your car being almost half the weight of an Odyssey will easily hold fine with 2x8.

 

[MarlynOC]

TE, thanks for input, it is hard to "see" what it looks like under the car from discussions and that is why I ask the questions so I can envision where it will fit.

 

[Eddie777]

I have used a wood called IPE. You can order it at a lumber yard. It is 6 times stronger than Oak. They call it Iron Wood. It sinks in water. Comes in thin 1 X6 planks used in Decks. Even if you pre-drill a hole too small you cannot drive a stainless - steel screw with out snapping. I always have to coat the screws in candle wax, other wise you can't back out the screw with out bending or breaking. Amazing stuff.

 

[MarlynOC]

Eddie we have built decks form Ipe and a carbon saw blade lasts about one deck, drill bits same. Good idea though

 

[tool_enthusiast]

I have used a wood called IPE. You can order it at a lumber yard. It is 6 times stronger than Oak. They call it Iron Wood. It sinks in water. Comes in thin 1 X6 planks used in Decks. Even if you pre-drill a hole too small you cannot drive a stainless - steel screw with out snapping. I always have to coat the screws in candle wax, other wise you can't back out the screw with out bending or breaking. Amazing stuff.

Very interesting Eddie777. Do you think a single 72" long 1x6 plank of this Ipe wood is stronger than the 72" long 2x8 Douglas fir I've tried? Or are you suggesting to maybe get two Ipe 1x6 planks and glue and/or screw them together?

 

[tool_enthusiast]

Very interesting Eddie777. Do you think a single 72" long 1x6 plank of this Ipe wood is stronger than the 72" long 2x8 Douglas fir I've tried? Or are you suggesting to maybe get two Ipe 1x6 planks and glue and/or screw them together?

Wow, this Ipe is super expensive. I see they do make a 2x8 Ipe and it's about $71 for a 6 ft plank. Needing two for our application, we're looking at $142. If the Ipe wood is as strong as it claims, maybe 2x6 would be sufficient which would cost around $96 for two 6 ft planks. Based on what I've seen so far with the 2x8 fir (and the small amount of deflection), it would seem a 2x8 (if not 2x6) of Ipe would easily do the job. Unfortunately I already committed to ordering some steel tubes and plates. Wish I knew about this type of wood earlier. I might have just tried going that route.

 

[stelthy77]

I just got my Quickjack and will probably go the 2x6 with angle iron reinforcement route and test that. I might get to it this weekend, but next week is more likely. I think a 2x6 will be plenty strong when paired with angle iron.

I can't use a middle block on my Odyssey as it is a 2014 and there isn't a visible pinch weld there, only plastic trim. The plastic would have to deflect almost an inch to get to the pinch weld.

When I build my adapter boards, I plan on placing the angle iron on the bottom of each side of the 2x6 and then through bolting it several spaces along the length.

IPE is an interesting solution, but it is pretty expensive and probably heavier and still not as strong as a steel reinforced board.

 

[tool_enthusiast]

I just got my Quickjack and will probably go the 2x6 with angle iron reinforcement route and test that. I might get to it this weekend, but next week is more likely. I think a 2x6 will be plenty strong when paired with angle iron.

I can't use a middle block on my Odyssey as it is a 2014 and there isn't a visible pinch weld there, only plastic trim. The plastic would have to deflect almost an inch to get to the pinch weld.

When I build my adapter boards, I plan on placing the angle iron on the bottom of each side of the 2x6 and then through bolting it several spaces along the length.

IPE is an interesting solution, but it is pretty expensive and probably heavier and still not as strong as a steel reinforced board.

stelthy77, that would be great if you could try the 2x6 with angle iron augmentation. As much as I'd like to test many different solutions, it takes raw material to implement these tests. I now have two useless 6 ft planks of 2x8 sitting in my garage.

I have on order, some 1-1/4" square steel tubing as well as 1-1/2" square tubing. I want to experiment with both sizes to see which one is optimal. Based on my research, going up a 1/4" in size on a square tube can decrease the deflection rate by half and is also lighter than getting the same size tube with thicker walls. I can easily run a test without welding them; I just carefully place them on top of the QuickJack, put suitable strength platforms on each side, and raise the car to a minimal height to check the deflection on the tubes. Either way I'm going to end up with more useless scrap material once I'm done. My goal is to have the lightest adapter possible. If I didn't care about the weight, I'm sure 1-1/2" 1/8" thick steel tubing with 3/6" thick plates is well over engineered, but will weigh like 50 lbs. Also 2x8 with two 1/8" thick 2" angle iron along the bottoms will likely work fine, but might bring the weight up to 30+ lbs.

 

[Eddie777]

I believe the 1x6 is much stronger than the 2x8 of Douglas Fir, however this wood is a bit brittle and might fail in the same way that Carbon Fiber can explode.
I agree gluing any wood together is the best way to go. But it would be so heavy.
I would not be sorry that you ordered the steel. I think that is the best route.
Thanks MarlynOC. I built some cool furniture out of it that should last way beyond my years.

 

[MarlynOC]

I have only 3 1/2 inch clearance under car so need to see what can be done.

 

[phenryiv1]

The think I am concerned with is that the Healey weighs just under 2500 lbs but the engine is over 600 of that weight so how far forward could I support to offset that front end with the "ramps"?

Last fall I used my BL5000 on my father's 1993 Dodge Stealth (FWD, not the AWD version) and the car has a huge front weight bias. We got it up in the air and the whole thing began to lean forward when I removed the rear wheels. It was a slow lean and we were able to place the wheels in the hatch after removing them and it stayed stable but I can say from experience that it is possible for the unit to lean toward the end with the weight bias.

 

[Eddie777]

Easy solution. I had the same problem with my 2012 Volvo S60. In fact the wheels stayed on the ground and with little effort, I lifted it with one hand.
The quick Jack has a design flaw. It starts lifting off center. Once it reaches full height it is centered and my Volvo no longer tilts forward. So I reversed them and it solved the problem completely. BTW. I can tell you from experience, do not lift as they suggest as an option in the manual. Unless you have a perfectly balance car, one jack lifts more and the car almost slides off forward. It was so close, I had to use a floor jack to even the weight and lower it back down. Very scary.

 

[M-technik-3]

Used one today, buddy owns one and I needed to replace my transmission mounts and engine mounts as they were who knows how old and ready to fail. Worked great for what I needed.

 

[drag racer]

Got a new 5000 lb model last month in order to lift my new Challenger which has no centerline lift points. Very pleased with it overall; will be using it as much as possible for all my cars because it is just easier and quicker than using floor jack and stands. Worth the $.

 

[MarlynOC]

I finally purchased the 3500 as car wt is 2450, works very well raising car about a total of 20+ inches. Car is stable and no rocking on jacks. Easy to assemble with all required parts including the teflon tape. I do not plan to move it around the garage so i am painting marks on the floor to identify location to set car up.

 

[AdamIsAdam]

I finally purchased the 3500 as car wt is 2450, works very well raising car about a total of 20+ inches. Car is stable and no rocking on jacks. Easy to assemble with all required parts including the teflon tape. I do not plan to move it around the garage so i am painting marks on the floor to identify location to set car up.

Please post pics of painted lines. That's a good idea. (Or maybe masking tape too.)

 

[Makoto]

It would take some convincing to spend $950 on a unit that reaches the same height and takes up 10x the floor space as my $170 Craftsman aluminum 2 ton unit with a 4x4 block on the pad and 4 jack stands. Sure, it takes me longer but I still have $700 to spend elsewhere.

when you're lifting a car a up a lot doing suspension work or whatever else things like this shine. It isn't often but when I need to raise and lower something on my two post i always think of how awful it would be using jackstands.

plus, safety. your life is worth more than 700 bucks.

 

[Eddie777]

Lifting an old car using a floor jack from the back or the front you can get away with jack stands. However, using the 4 suggested lifting points on a new car using jack stands is next to impossible. Car shifts too much. Gets really scary when you see the opposite jack stand in a tripod tilt.

 

[Paycheck]

Now they have the longer EXT versions available.

 

[AdamIsAdam]

For those of you that have this, can we put the rubber blocks (or the SUV extensions) in any location within the rectangular area at the ends of the jacks? Is that how you fine tune the location of the lifting points?

I've got 3 cars right now that range in size and i'd like to buy the QuickJack that fits them all. I'm thinking I can get away with the largest QJ for all three of these cars:

2011 BMW 328 (4 door) (permissible jack length (D) is 88" and min/max jacking point spans are 46.5" - 51.5")
1964 GTO. (ideal frame lifting points are 65" apart)
2009 Jeep Wrangler 4 door (VERY BIG AND MANY JACKING POINTS! LOL) (5,000lbs)

Any input would be helpful.

 

[jsj123]

Yes you can. I fine tune them just before the rubber block hits the car. Stop the lift and move them. The only car I have trouble with is my Eurovan with over 70 inches between jacking points, still using jack and jack stands.

--Stephen

 

[Eddie777]

I bought one of the original BL 5000 Quickjacks which didn't fit any of my 4 cars.
I was amazed at the time they only made small and ex-small.
However, I knew I could modify it somehow.
I had adapters made by a local welder for $200 and they work perfect.
Fits all my cars now. I have had zero problems except for my one front wheel drive where the front wheels do not lift and the entire Quickjack tilts forward. Solution was to just turn the car 180.
I posted this previously. My adapters do not void the warranty as some may.

 

[AdamIsAdam]

Eddie,
Those adapters are really nice. I just pulled the trigger and bought the 7000EXT (pre-ordered, actually). It's the biggest one. I was concerned it would be too big for my 328 but it's not. I need that large one for my 64 GTO and my Jeep. Seems like it should handle all 3 cars and anything else I throw at it for the foreseeable future. Now I just have to wait the 6-8 weeks to get it!

 

[79malibu]

I just got the ext and it fits my malibu perfect i used the suv kit to raise it even higher

 

[m5james]

Got my 7000EXT a few days ago, 12V setup with rubber blocks only for $1445 shipped. Even with the EXT I'm only sitting on about 2/3 of each jackpad on my BMW X5M....I've yet to try it on my 328, 740iL, Harley Davidson F150 or the GF's 535xiT to see how it fits on either of those vehicles.

Best discount they offered me was $100 using coupon code MONEY or AUTO. I've been searching around for the truck extension set for less than the $220+ online, started searching Alibaba and in typical after the fact fashion, I'm finding QuickJacks (minus the labeling) all over for $500-$1300 :/ I've only found a few suppliers who have the 7000lb/3100kg setup, so I've written them asking what they charge for shipping to my house. Just like almost everything nowadays, it's all coming from China and you'll find it if you search around without the US company markup. Now I wait to see if the direct price savings will justify returning this to QuickJack even after I've gotta pay return shipping.

Still haven't found the truck extensions for cheaper online though.

 

[bobwi]

I have seen on other forums that people are using a 72 inch 2x6. I am not recommending it, but it seems to work for them. BMW m5's and Honda Odysseys, not maxing out a 7000 load.

I was just looking and can't find any definitive answer on face loading a 2x6 like this. The weight of the car is only a few inches on either side from the quickjack, the board doesn't look like it is bending in pictures.

ok, what I would suggest is something I've used in house and RV design and something I'm going to use on my Quickjacks. Take 3-2x4's, put 2- 3.5x1/8" alum or steel bar stock in between the 2x4's and bolt through everything in a W pattern 12" apart. The edge strengh of the metal is very high on edge if you don't let it flex (2x4's stop flexing). You could probably get by with 2-2x4's and 1 piece of metal but I would worry about it "rolling". bob

 

[bobwi]

I have seen on other forums that people are using a 72 inch 2x6. I am not recommending it, but it seems to work for them. BMW m5's and Honda Odysseys, not maxing out a 7000 load.

I was just looking and can't find any definitive answer on face loading a 2x6 like this. The weight of the car is only a few inches on either side from the quickjack, the board doesn't look like it is bending in pictures.

ok, what I would suggest is something I've used in house and RV design and something I'm going to use on my Quickjacks. Take 3-2x4's, put 2- 3.5x1/8" alum or steel bar stock in between the 2x4's and bolt through everything in a W pattern 12" apart. The edge strengh of the metal is very high on edge if you don't let it flex (2x4's stop flexing). You could probably get by with 2-2x4's and 1 piece of metal but I would worry about it "rolling". bob

 

[bobwi]

ok, what I would suggest is something I've used in house and RV design and something I'm going to use on my Quickjacks. Take 3-2x4's, put 2- 3.5x1/8" alum or steel bar stock in between the 2x4's and bolt through everything in a W pattern 12" apart. The edge strengh of the metal is very high on edge if you don't let it flex (2x4's stop flexing). You could probably get by with 2-2x4's and 1 piece of metal but I would worry about it "rolling". bob

 

[Paycheck]

Last post was 2018.