Here's a picture I took of the original when I made the .ai file. If you print up a "more accurate" version, I'd love a copy too!
http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/jwwsector9/media/IMG_5659_zps6xmesubv.jpg.html
Vintage Grinder Sticker Reproduction
- Thread starter mattblast
- Start date
Here's a picture I took of the original when I made the .ai file. If you print up a "more accurate" version, I'd love a copy too!
http://s1303.photobucket.com/user/jwwsector9/media/IMG_5659_zps6xmesubv.jpg.html
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
These are awesome, just PMed matt! 
Those decal look amazing.
I scanned the decal off mine, its a bit rough but I got it pretty flat and taped up the tears from behind.
The original decal is 3.75 inches wide by 6 inches tall.
The decal got a lot worse after I peeled it off as the clear laminated surface sort of crackled as it was bent backwards.
Here are the reproductions which I redrew in vector format. Almost 100% identical. The give away is the "J" under the UL logo. Original had a line at the top.
The Sears logo was tough but I found an EPS vector version of it on brandsoftheworld.comwww.brandsoftheworld.com (great site for clean logos for free). Otherwise it would have taken a while to clean up the paths.
I upgraded the material to an "air-egress" vinyl which has channels to make it easy for air pockets to dissipate. Usually high performance vinyl is thin and stretchy to make it easy to wrap around corners but this is a high performance material which doesn't stretch. That should aid in applying it and it acts more like a label than a vinyl wrap. It also has a black adhesive which blocks out any imperfections underneath.
Here you can see the air channels and black adhesive.
I also upgraded the lamination to a thick non-scuff lamination. The original ones were laminated with a thinner material which didn't hold up as well.
Kind of ironic that the label for the "Made in Taiwan" grinder is the one with all the upgrades.
I'll send this out in the morning. You should have it Monday. (2 copies)
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EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Oh man, I totally forgot to send you the image for my grinder! Better write a post-it note right now! lol
Here are my two grinder labels.
The first one s/n black label looks like 308
. You can put what ever in there. I see the s/n has been markered, always pleasant to see when you bought it at a garage sale for 10 bucks. Didn't notice that until now since it was all greasy when i bought it lol.
The other one thats hard to read is a 397 19340 (possibly) model 1/2 hp
No idea what the s/n is on that one
Thanks!
The first one s/n black label looks like 308
. You can put what ever in there. I see the s/n has been markered, always pleasant to see when you bought it at a garage sale for 10 bucks. Didn't notice that until now since it was all greasy when i bought it lol.The other one thats hard to read is a 397 19340 (possibly) model 1/2 hp
No idea what the s/n is on that one
Thanks!
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Here are my two grinder labels.
The first one s/n black label looks like 308
The other one thats hard to read is a 397 19340 (possibly) model 1/2 hp
No idea what the s/n is on that one
Thanks!
These are near perfect matches of the scans you took (minus the serial number on one which I left blank). Also there is a very minor typo on one that I doubt anyone will notice. I'll give you a clue - it's near the UL logo.
I upgraded to the scuff resistant lamination on these which not only provides durability but will make it easier to apply the label (unlaminated it is more like working with Saran Wrap - very stretchy and hard to apply)
The label for the 257.191401 isn't a perfect font match. I stretched out the font I have to get the size right but the original one is slightly different.
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Looks fantastic! Thanks!These are near perfect matches of the scans you took (minus the serial number on one which I left blank). Also there is a very minor typo on one that I doubt anyone will notice. I'll give you a clue - it's near the UL logo.
I upgraded to the scuff resistant lamination on these which not only provides durability but will make it easier to apply the label (unlaminated it is more like working with Saran Wrap - very stretchy and hard to apply)
The label for the 257.191401 isn't a perfect font match. I stretched out the font I have to get the size right but the original one is slightly different.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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I got the decals from Matt yesterday, I finally got around to applying them tonight. They look absolutely amazing.
Here's some quick pics I took. The scuff proof laminate layer gives the decal a good finish as well. The heavier vinyl is super easy to apply, I simply aligned the new decal with the shadow of the old decal that showed through the paint and sort of rolled it downward into place, no bubbles at all.
All I have left is to make the tool rests for this one, the originals were rusted to bad to reuse, as were the little shields but I don't think they'll be going back on since I rarely use them.
I also have to find a proper stand for it. By proper stand I mean building one from an old truck drum and a length of tubing. Its a heavy grinder and will need a lot of weight to keep it steady while in use.
I included a 'before' pic here as well for comparison. Its amazing what can be done with a glass bead cabinet, some sandpaper, a little paint and an amazing decal artist!
Here's some quick pics I took. The scuff proof laminate layer gives the decal a good finish as well. The heavier vinyl is super easy to apply, I simply aligned the new decal with the shadow of the old decal that showed through the paint and sort of rolled it downward into place, no bubbles at all.
All I have left is to make the tool rests for this one, the originals were rusted to bad to reuse, as were the little shields but I don't think they'll be going back on since I rarely use them.
I also have to find a proper stand for it. By proper stand I mean building one from an old truck drum and a length of tubing. Its a heavy grinder and will need a lot of weight to keep it steady while in use.
I included a 'before' pic here as well for comparison. Its amazing what can be done with a glass bead cabinet, some sandpaper, a little paint and an amazing decal artist!
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I have a full res one on my PC, but here is a low res version of my repro.
Unfortunately, I no longer have my original label, as I sent it to a user on GJ who said he was going to help me with a label, then I never heard from him again, and he stopped posting and checking PMs here shortly thereafter.
Sorry to hear about your previous attempt to get a new label. I read your other posts and it was part of the motivation for me making labels for free. Glad I can help you out.
Here is a new label sublimated onto brushed aluminum 0.040" thick.
This was the most challenging label so far for a variety of reasons. First the photo you took was slightly distorted so I had to use some Photoshop magic to remove the distortion to get accurate measurements. Then I could redraw it in vector format.
It is printed directly onto aluminum plate via a sublimation process which means the ink is in the metal, not just on the surface. It will not fade or wear. The only way to get the print off is to scrape off a layer of metal.
There is a trim line around the border but I did not trim it for you. Do you have a band saw or a metal shear to trim it to size? If not I'll see what I can do there finish it up before sending it you.
I left the model number and serial number fields blank so you can metal stamp them (it didn't seem right to print the numbers that were originally stamped).
I would be happy to do more of these and found that a purpose built sublimation printer is about $400. I already have the heat press. If enough folks need reproduction metal labels and can contribute towards the printer, then I can provide the labels at no additional cost. I never intended to ask for any compensation for these labels but if there are 20 folks that need a label and each contributes $20 then I would be able to make labels for everyone for a while. (there is a small cost for the supplies which I should be able to cover)
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
I don't need a label right now, but count me in for $20.00.
Thanks for all you are doing. Wonderful work!
Mike
Thanks for all you are doing. Wonderful work!
Mike
EOC_Jason
Well-known member
Oh wow, thank you! Now that should give me the kick in the pants to restore this old grinder this next week!
That looks awesome!
That looks awesome!
It was very similar to another label I made so it only took a few minutes design time.
This has the scuff resistant lamination. Should go on easy. I'll send out in the morning. Post photos once your label is applied.
pendragon1998
Well-known member
Sorry to hear about your previous attempt to get a new label. I read your other posts and it was part of the motivation for me making labels for free. Glad I can help you out.
Here is a new label sublimated onto brushed aluminum 0.040" thick.
This was the most challenging label so far for a variety of reasons. First the photo you took was slightly distorted so I had to use some Photoshop magic to remove the distortion to get accurate measurements. Then I could redraw it in vector format.
It is printed directly onto aluminum plate via a sublimation process which means the ink is in the metal, not just on the surface. It will not fade or wear. The only way to get the print off is to scrape off a layer of metal.
There is a trim line around the border but I did not trim it for you. Do you have a band saw or a metal shear to trim it to size? If not I'll see what I can do there finish it up before sending it you.
I left the model number and serial number fields blank so you can metal stamp them (it didn't seem right to print the numbers that were originally stamped).
I would be happy to do more of these and found that a purpose built sublimation printer is about $400. I already have the heat press. If enough folks need reproduction metal labels and can contribute towards the printer, then I can provide the labels at no additional cost. I never intended to ask for any compensation for these labels but if there are 20 folks that need a label and each contributes $20 then I would be able to make labels for everyone for a while. (there is a small cost for the supplies which I should be able to cover)
That looks awesome! I sent you a PM last night.
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Fluxion
Well-known member
Hey mattblast, I lucked into another refinish project and it looks like you have already done one of these labels, Can I get a copy for my new grinder?
Indexmill
Well-known member
Hi Mattblast,
Following is a photo of the "old" label on my 1/3 HP flat-top block grinder. Based on reading many of the posts and threads here on GJ, it looks like it is common for this type of label to be unreadable 30 or 40 years later.
It would be great if you could make this label for me. I do not even know the Model Number for this grinder. I hope you or another member can provide the model number. I also sent an email.
Thank you.
Following is a photo of the "old" label on my 1/3 HP flat-top block grinder. Based on reading many of the posts and threads here on GJ, it looks like it is common for this type of label to be unreadable 30 or 40 years later.
It would be great if you could make this label for me. I do not even know the Model Number for this grinder. I hope you or another member can provide the model number. I also sent an email.
Thank you.
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Zeeman
Well-known member
Wow, you do need a new label. I've never seen one that you could not read.
I was able to make the label for you based on this photo plus a photo you found on the grinder thread that showed the full label. Here is the result which is in the mail and on the way. Post photos of it applied once your restoration is complete.
This is the first label I made for 1/3 HP. Warning text at bottom is a bit different that the others I made. It had a lightly textured polycarbonate lamination for durability.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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EOC_Jason
Well-known member
As always Matt, it's very inspiring to see you make these labels. Something so simple looking but makes a world of difference between a worn and faded and a nice new ones.
torqueman2002
Well-known member
You are the Master Matt!
Indexmill
Well-known member
Thank you very much Matt. You are very kind to do this for people. I certainly will post photos of the completed grinder (and before pics).
Sincerely, Indexmill.
Sincerely, Indexmill.
You are the Master Matt!
I totally agree! Here's the replacement he did for me after I had the first one laminated locally, which ended up with a lot of air bubbles.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
bczygan
Well-known member
I was able to make the label for you based on this photo plus a photo you found on the grinder thread that showed the full label. Here is the result which is in the mail and on the way. Post photos of it applied once your restoration is complete.
This is the first label I made for 1/3 HP. Warning text at bottom is a bit different that the others I made. It had a lightly textured polycarbonate lamination for durability.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A helluva lot nicer than Sears ever made!
Bill
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catalytic
Well-known member
Earlier this summer, I came across this thread and contacted Matt about the badge for a milling machine I'm restoring. The original badge was silk screened onto aluminum plate, and while the plate was in fine shape, the ink was in poor condition. Someone with a nicer badge sent me a hi-res photo, and Matt was kind enough to do the artwork and print a pair of beautiful laminated replacement decals to go on the original plate.
Here's the 'before' shot and 3 photos showing what it looks like after I punched clearance holes for the drive screws and applied it:
Here's the 'before' shot and 3 photos showing what it looks like after I punched clearance holes for the drive screws and applied it:
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Flucio
Active member
Message sent .. thanks
Richard Cranium
Well-known member
Matt, can you do these for like a Craftsman wall mounted tool cabinet? Rich
gazza
Well-known member
Hi Matt, I just found this thread and had to post so that I can find it again.
You're reproductions are great, coming from another signwriter who makes repro motorcycle stickers. There is so much detail in some of those stickers doing a perfect reproduction is so much work, compared to something that just "looks like" the original.
cheers
You're reproductions are great, coming from another signwriter who makes repro motorcycle stickers. There is so much detail in some of those stickers doing a perfect reproduction is so much work, compared to something that just "looks like" the original.
cheers
Lump
Well-known member
Can anyone tell me exactly what the label would have looked like for my old Baldor grinder? I bought it years ago used, and had it completely gone through by my favorite electric motor shop. I doubt that I will ever "restore" it, as I kind of like the aged look with patina on my equipment (reminds me of my dad's old garage, I guess). But I would like to get a Baldor label back on this thing. I would also like to put some eye guards back on it. Ideas?
JABgj
Well-known member
Nice work Mattblast. I noticed you used sublimation for the aluminum plate, how are you printing on the vinyl?
I print the labels on silver adhesive backed sign vinyl (high performance calendared) using a ecosol based ink. These are done on a Mimaki but same results could be produced on a Roland or Mutoh. After printing they are laminated with a polycarbonate laminate then contour cut on a Graphtec.
macgee
Well-known member
That sounds well beyond my inkjet and skill set.
I have a very old Baldor polishing lathe that I want to restore as it runs beautifully (it puuurs).
I would love get a print made up for the label. It has a really cool rounded hand rendered looking Blador font on it that I can barely see. Was thinking of printing a mock up of it via inkjet onto water transfers, lacquering it up with a clear coat and then mounting it on a polished piece of stainless cut out to the same size as the old one then attaching it with brass drive screws.
Not sure what else I can do. I've never seen a cast iron base with the baldor name on it like that for a bench top and it runs perfectly so I think it's worthy of a restore/paint job?
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