The VISES of Garage Journal

[damnesia]

I picked up this little guy at an estate sale this morning. 2 1/4" un-marked mini vise. At $15, it was a little more than I wanted to pay but it's in such good shape, I couldn't leave it behind.

Does anyone recognize it?




Brian

Pretty sure it's a Stanley Victor jersey vise. If you polish the side of the slide it should be printed there. 15$ is a good price, stout little vises and made well.

 

[mgmlvks]

First visit to a friends house since getting the "Vise Vice" and saw this on his workbench - can someone tell me anything about it and when it might be from?

 

[damnesia]

First visit to a friends house since getting the "Vise Vice" and saw this on his workbench - can someone tell me anything about it and when it might be from?

That's an odd one. Any better pictures of the lettering on the right side ( if you're facing the vise )?

 

[rusty65]

First visit to a friends house since getting the "Vise Vice" and saw this on his workbench - can someone tell me anything about it and when it might be from?

That's from the late 1940s to mid 50s. At one point Montgomery wards sold the same vise in there catalogs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mgmlvks]

That's an odd one. Any better pictures of the lettering on the right side ( if you're facing the vise )?

Not tonight! I always assume the cell phone takes good pics - not of vises apparently! Maybe tomorrow. Bottom line is "Malleable Iron", upper line too fuzzy. Link to large size image here:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4423/37078240672_0bceb1fde5_k.jpg

 

[va.grouseman]

Looks like Ward's Lake Side anvil vise.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-War...283979?hash=item25df212f8b:g:CiAAAOSwOyJX8AKb


EDIT----Here is several.---Click the link.


https://www.google.com/search?q=war...&ei=vHa8WaG2HeuP0gLjjQQ#imgrc=WZec6TQkpoRW3M:

 

[wrenchguy]

"V" part numbers = milwaukee?

 

[Z3K3Y]

Got around to finishing the Athol 624 1/2 i picked up a little while ago. I cant decide if i want to keep it or sell it.. these are pretty rare in my neck of the woods

 

[va.grouseman]

Here's my Stanley Family.

Two Sweethearts and two bench vises.

It says Stanley on the handle end but the flash obscures.

 

[va.grouseman]

Another pic of the Stanley swivel based.


And an Oak leaf that looks just like a Sweetheart.---I doubt Stanley cast their own vises so this one is probably cast by the ones that cast for Stanley.


And a couple of Boley look-alikes.---No makers mark.

 

[AngryBeaver]

Didn't want the simple brake drum and pipe stand so Royce chain stand got me thinking. Didn't want To permanently mount or, so it had to be heavy enough for general use, and look cool doing it.

167lb base plate gear
78lb toothed gear.
30lb clogged gear
38lbs of chain and 37lb top plate that still needs cut. I can live with this I think.

 

[Rileysan]

Another pic of the Stanley swivel based.


And an Oak leaf that looks just like a Sweetheart.---I doubt Stanley cast their own vises so this one is probably cast by the ones that cast for Stanley.


And a couple of Boley look-alikes.---No makers mark.

Thank you for the lesson on these vises. I will clean it up tomorrow and look for the markings.

Brian

 

[Z3K3Y]

Angry Beaver, just curious as too why you mounted the vise so far back (not leaving room for the handle to fully rotate? is there a reason for that? or just to balance it out? just curious.. cheers

 

[Private Lugnutz]

I used deductive reasoning to guess my way into this being a saw sharpening clamp vise. Am I right? The jaws are 9 inches wide. No mfgr’s or any other marks except the MADE IN USA on the jaws. It’s finished in black enamel.

View media item 74679
View media item 74680
View media item 74681

 

[G-ManBart]

Angry Beaver, just curious as too why you mounted the vise so far back (not leaving room for the handle to fully rotate? is there a reason for that? or just to balance it out? just curious.. cheers

In his parts breakdown he says the top plate still needs to be cut. I'm sure that's what you're seeing.

 

[AngryBeaver]

In his parts breakdown he says the top plate still needs to be cut. I'm sure that's what you're seeing.

Angry Beaver, just curious as too why you mounted the vise so far back (not leaving room for the handle to fully rotate? is there a reason for that? or just to balance it out? just curious.. cheers

yup... Gman got it..

I ran out of oxygen for the torches.... was determined to finish it...

Now to wire wheel it and some linseed oil to protect the raw finish...

 

[va.grouseman]

Better pic of the Stanley bench vise.---The through the bench Stanley weighs 3 1/2 lbs., the top bench weighs 2 lbs..---None of the Stanley's have crosshatch jaws, all smooth,---Did Stanley ever sell a medium to large vise that anyone has seen?

And pics of the Boley jaws.---One smooth, one crosshatched.---Both have 1 3/4'' jaws, so how do they cut serration that small,,,KMS?

Pic 1 and 2 are of the bench vise logo and smooth jaws, but the jaws are
kind of blurred.---Lousy cameraman.

Pic 3, 4, and 5 are of the serrated clamp-on fake Boley.

Pic 6 and 7 are of the stationary smooth jawed fake Boley.

 

[KMScott]

And pics of the Boley jaws.---One smooth, one crosshatched.---Both have 1 3/4'' jaws, so how do they cut serration that small,,,KMS?

VA, I know it does not make sense but the smaller jaws are much more time consuming then the bigger jaws. Tiny cutters take more time to cut. The baby jaws I sell are not money makers. The 2" baby jaws are cut at 30 degrees and a pitch of .05 and about .015 deep. The pitch is the cut between each serrations. I use a 4' diameter 3/32 wide carbide cutter ($150 each) and made a fixture to sharpen the 45 degree angle. The pic's should say it all. The trick is to have a holder that is square and does not wobble and your sharpening fixture has to be accurate. I built the special holder so I can serrate the 2" to the 9" jaws and that is why it is so long. Not really to hard but like everything in machine work it has to be right. The two jaws are the 2" babys and the first pic is cutting the baby jaws with a different cutter then what I use now.

 

[PacificaVette]

I picked up this Prentiss No. 52 at a garage sale. I arrived just as he was putting things out, and grabbed this one. $40 seemed like a pretty good deal.

The movement is as smooth as I have ever felt on any vise. Jaws are good shape, too. I'm thinking about how far I want to go with the clean-up. I rather like the look of bare metal with boiled linseed oil, so I may try that.

The original castellated nut on the screw is still in place, so I think I'll probably just leave that alone. I don't really see any advantage in taking it off.

 

[G-ManBart]

I took a couple of pictures recently that were kind of interesting. First up are two Wilton bullets...both 4" jaws. One is 1941-1942 production and the other is mid-1990s. Talk about a huge change in size for the same model from the same company! This is also further proof that jaw size is a terrible indicator of vise size.

Next up, an early 1970s Wilton C1 (4.5" jaws) and two Wilton C3s (6" jaws). From 70lbs to 200lbs going up just 1.5" in jaw size. That's like 40lbs per half inch of jaw width!

 

[Cope]

I picked up this Prentiss No. 52 at a garage sale. I arrived just as he was putting things out, and grabbed this one. $40 seemed like a pretty good deal.

The movement is as smooth as I have ever felt on any vise. Jaws are good shape, too. I'm thinking about how far I want to go with the clean-up. I rather like the look of bare metal with boiled linseed oil, so I may try that.

The original castellated nut on the screw is still in place, so I think I'll probably just leave that alone. I don't really see any advantage in taking it off.

I'd clean it and use it. They're only original once. Nice find.

 

[Rileysan]

I used deductive reasoning to guess my way into this being a saw sharpening clamp vise. Am I right? The jaws are 9 inches wide. No mfgr’s or any other marks except the MADE IN USA on the jaws. It’s finished in black enamel.

View media item 74679
View media item 74680
View media item 74681

I'm surprised no one answered yet! You are indeed, correct. That is a hand saw vise used when sharpening and setting teeth of a hand saw. I think the black finish is japaning.

Brian

 

[gman007]

Hi
Sometime back I believe someone posted a comment regarding how to use Simple Green (SG) to strip the paint off and clean a vise. I have not used this method before but want to try it. However I can not remember if it is best to use the SG without diluting it with water or use a 50-50 mixture or what?

Also should one clean all the grease off the vise before impressing in the solution or will SG take care of the grease too (I do not mind if the solution can not be reused)?

Finally how long typically should the vise soak in this solution?

Any advise is greatly appreciated
Thx
007

 

[damnesia]

Hi
Sometime back I believe someone posted a comment regarding how to use Simple Green (SG) to strip the paint off and clean a vise. I have not used this method before but want to try it. However I can not remember if it is best to use the SG without diluting it with water or use a 50-50 mixture or what?

Also should one clean all the grease off the vise before impressing in the solution or will SG take care of the grease too (I do not mind if the solution can not be reused)?

Finally how long typically should the vise soak in this solution?

Any advise is greatly appreciated
Thx
007

I've soaked a lot of painted parts in full strength SG ( wasn't trying to remove paint ) and it removes some paint, but unless maybe the solution is heated, I would not consider it a paint stripper. Maybe I'm wrong and can learn something new from your questions too. In my experience the best paint stripping method ( and rust too! ) is electrolysis, it's also by far the cheapest. The vise below had 4 or 5 coats of paint, tons or rust, oil, etc. It took about 2.5 days in an electrolysis bath to strip it completely down to the bare iron. Then I like to brush some OsPho on it, then it will remain rust free until I decided to paint it.

 

[damnesia]

I picked up this Prentiss No. 52 at a garage sale. I arrived just as he was putting things out, and grabbed this one. $40 seemed like a pretty good deal.

The movement is as smooth as I have ever felt on any vise. Jaws are good shape, too. I'm thinking about how far I want to go with the clean-up. I rather like the look of bare metal with boiled linseed oil, so I may try that.

The original castellated nut on the screw is still in place, so I think I'll probably just leave that alone. I don't really see any advantage in taking it off.

That is a nice vise. I love Prentiss vises. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Bcom]

Just picked up this 1969 double pin Wilton C0 today. Pretty good shape. Should clean up nicely. Had to do a few hours on price negotiation but finally got it down to a suitable price.

 

[gman007]

I've soaked a lot of painted parts in full strength SG ( wasn't trying to remove paint ) and it removes some paint, but unless maybe the solution is heated, I would not consider it a paint stripper. Maybe I'm wrong and can learn something new from your questions too. In my experience the best paint stripping method ( and rust too! ) is electrolysis, it's also by far the cheapest. The vise below had 4 or 5 coats of paint, tons or rust, oil, etc. It took about 2.5 days in an electrolysis bath to strip it completely down to the bare iron. Then I like to brush some OsPho on it, then it will remain rust free until I decided to paint it.

Damnesia
Thx much for advice and prompt response
007

 

[red94chev]

Picked this up off a guy on Craigslist who ended up being a GJ guy (shout-out to Chris). It's a Reed 204 1/2 and it's in amazing shape with a great restoration. He said it lived in a butcher shop it's whole life. I'm proud to give it a new home!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Private Lugnutz]

You are indeed, correct. That is a hand saw vise used when sharpening and setting teeth of a hand saw. I think the black finish is japaning.

Thanks much for the confirmation, Brian. As for the finish, we probably mean the same thing. In my experience, the terms enameled and japanned were used synonymously in vintage tool catalogs, specifications, etc for any resin based lacquer that is baked on in layers, typically for engineers wrenches, auto wrenches, ball-pein hammer heads, clamps, hooks, lathe dogs, and other equipment.

 

[va.grouseman]

VA, I know it does not make sense but the smaller jaws are much more time consuming then the bigger jaws. Tiny cutters take more time to cut. The baby jaws I sell are not money makers. The 2" baby jaws are cut at 30 degrees and a pitch of .05 and about .015 deep. The pitch is the cut between each serrations. I use a 4' diameter 3/32 wide carbide cutter ($150 each) and made a fixture to sharpen the 45 degree angle. The pic's should say it all. The trick is to have a holder that is square and does not wobble and your sharpening fixture has to be accurate. I built the special holder so I can serrate the 2" to the 9" jaws and that is why it is so long. Not really to hard but like everything in machine work it has to be right. The two jaws are the 2" babys and the first pic is cutting the baby jaws with a different cutter then what I use now.

I read all that KMS, and it sounds really good, and it would all make perfect sense to me if I knew Greek.---But I'm taking your word for it.

 

[mgmlvks]

Over the last two months have ended up with two American Scale No. 40 vises. Bought the first one because partial decal remaining, decent (maybe) original green paint, had removable jaw inserts, and primarily - it was made in Kansas City, MO. I am attempting to amass industrial flotsam and jetsam from the KC area as being interesting, and to display in my office.

Second vise was in about the same condition and had the Pipe Jaws! WooHoo.

Doing basic clean-up and find the machine screws holding the inerts are loose, so drill out and remove insert. The other vise has screws that can be removed. The screws are slot head 5/16-18 with a dramatic taper.

Questions are

1. Are these a standard screw and if so - where can I get some!?
2. If obsolete and NLA - I envision chucking up a pan-head screw in the battery operated hand drill and running against the bench grinder. - Is there a better way?

 

[Outlawmws]

Questions are

1. Are these a standard screw and if so - where can I get some!?
2. If obsolete and NLA - I envision chucking up a pan-head screw in the battery operated hand drill and running against the bench grinder. - Is there a better way?

1. Not availabe
2. other than in a lathe, that will do it!

 

[mgmlvks]

1. Not availabe
2. other than in a lathe, that will do it!

Kinda what I figured - is there a technical name for this screw head that I can seek some dimensions for?

 

[Outlawmws]

Not that I'm aware of, and I did give a look in MHB. On;y std Countersunk screws there. I suggest using the old ones as a guide

 

[KMScott]

I read all that KMS, and it sounds really good, and it would all make perfect sense to me if I knew Greek.---But I'm taking your word for it.

Sorry, been doing this stuff to long and it is easier to do then explain it.

mgmlvks, I have a drawing of the screw in question on my work computer but if making by hand filing it does not matter what the numbers are. Happy to share the drawing if you need it.

 

[mgmlvks]

mgmlvks, I have a drawing of the screw in question on my work computer but if making by hand filing it does not matter what the numbers are. Happy to share the drawing if you need it.

Thanks - certainly making by hand or on a lathe to match existing doesn't need a drawing - but always nice to know where you are going. Thread below appears to have addressed the same issue - but has the PB photo disease. However - it does mention a 30 degree angle which is what I was mostly interested in.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78885

 

[va.grouseman]

Ok fellows, here's your shot at a Unicorn Monster 408 Reed.---Starting bid, $50.00.

Let's start the bidding.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ANT...626464?hash=item212e3c5460:g:OkUAAOSwdKZZvZZY

 

[rusty65]

Ok fellows, here's your shot at a Unicorn Monster 408 Reed.---Starting bid, $50.00.



Let's start the bidding.





http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ANT...626464?hash=item212e3c5460:g:OkUAAOSwdKZZvZZY

Sounds like it went on a diet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KMScott]

Thanks - certainly making by hand or on a lathe to match existing doesn't need a drawing - but always nice to know where you are going. Thread below appears to have addressed the same issue - but has the PB photo disease. However - it does mention a 30 degree angle which is what I was mostly interested in.

That was what I was going to guess but remember that is a included angle. If I was cutting that on a lathe or spin grinding it on a surface grinder I would set the compound to 15 degrees. Good luck.

 

[Shiftless]

Sounds like it went on a diet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not sure of a lot of things, but I know that the eBay seller is NOT selling a Reed 408 in that listing. He says it weighs 60 pounds. My Reed 406 double swiveller with of course the smaller 6 inch jaws, weighs about 160. The Reed 408 "unicorn" should weigh in at around 300 pounds.