Fretters
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Definitely. Nice catch with those two Record's.
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
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Definitely. Nice catch with those two Record's.
trijeff
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mc_advrider
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I checked out your build, nice work!
I'm not sure where to start with this one as I don't want to beat on it like a heathen. The PO mentioned that he "broke" it, so I don't think it's stuck because of rust.
Anyone have a tip for removing the end cap without messing it up?
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
Getting it unstuck is you first order of business. Having the cap off could help that. Catch 22?
Get the screw out and see if you can get maybe a broom stick through to knock the cap out?
Once that is out of the way, you may be able to get the nut out of the end then get a gear puller on the shoulders of the static, and the screw on a slug on the slide.
I suspect the PO has bent the slide and its wedged in place... Once you get it moving it should fall out...
Get the screw out and see if you can get maybe a broom stick through to knock the cap out?
Once that is out of the way, you may be able to get the nut out of the end then get a gear puller on the shoulders of the static, and the screw on a slug on the slide.
I suspect the PO has bent the slide and its wedged in place... Once you get it moving it should fall out...
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
Take the three screws off the c clip holding the screw in. Then unscrew it. You should be able to then drive a long punch through it to remove the cap.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Mc Ad: I agree to take out main screw first by removing the three screws and horseshoe shaped holder and it should just screw out. Then you should be able to get about a half inch wood dowell in thru vise nut to hit out the dust cover so you’ll have a better view of the insides. I’d round off the end of the dowel theat is pushing the dust cover out especially if it’s needing more than a tap to remove it.
Then you’ve got several options to get dynamic slide out and hopefully it’s just a little rust holding it in place and your slide isn’t bent.
Welcome to the forum and good luck. Ask questions if you need more help and the vise repair 101 thread in vintage tools might provide several options if you have time to read about a few other members stuck Wilton slides.
Then you’ve got several options to get dynamic slide out and hopefully it’s just a little rust holding it in place and your slide isn’t bent.
Welcome to the forum and good luck. Ask questions if you need more help and the vise repair 101 thread in vintage tools might provide several options if you have time to read about a few other members stuck Wilton slides.
va.grouseman
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Couldn't pass up this Oswego 26 when it literally threw itself at me for $30. Six inch jaws, 160 pounds. Don't think you see these too often.
Trijeff, you'll be tickled when you get that one spiffed up.---They dress up real nice.---You should suffer a few sleepless night though, just for near stealing that fine vise.---I sentence you to 3 nights of tossing and turning and 2 weeks probation.
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That's a Wilton SBV100 and I have a table clamp swivel assembly for this vise if anyone is interested. I took the chance a baby bullet would fit on it but was wrong. Measurements available upon request.
That's less than 19 cents per pound for a 160 pound vise in seemingly good condition aside from a slight handle bend. Looks like maybe a repaired or homemade swivel lock wrench also, but I'd have to say you **** anyway.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
For sure it’s a good price.
Every time the price per pound comes up I have to laugh and it itrates me. It’s not an anvil. People claim a bunch a pound. That hasn’t been relavent in 10 years and people continue to regurgitate bad info
gman007
Well-known member
MC,
As Outlaw , AngryBeaver and Drives have stated the proper and normal procedure to remove the cap is to remove the main screw first and then use some kind long wood bunch (dowell) that will fit through main nut to punch the cap off.
However if like Outlaw mentioned you have a catch 22 situation, in other words if for whatever reason (and off hand I can not think what that would be) you can not remove the main screw first (ie it is completely seized and will not budge) , then you might want to weld a small handle piece (something like a Screw Eye Ring) in the center of the cap and use it to pull the cap out.
The cap is a lot thicker than you might think (from memory I think something like 2 mm ~ 1/16") and when it is out you can cut the welded handle and gently grind and smooth the spot.
Another similar idea might be to drill a small hole in the center of the cap and use a hook through the hole to pull the cap out. You can then weld the small hole to plug it and grind and smooth the spot. Honestly if you are planning on painting the vise and the cap, even plugging the small hole with J-B weld and sanding will work!
Obviously these are NOT the preferred and normal method but rather are last resort methods.
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va.grouseman
Well-known member
Here's one that looks like it might make a good showing.---Kind of unusual configuration.---I'd like to jump on and take a little ride, but after that last one I'm a little gun-shy.---Oh but it's tempting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pr...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pr...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
gman007
Well-known member
Here's one that looks like it might make a good showing.---Kind of unusual configuration.---I'd like to jump on and take a little ride, but after that last one I'm a little gun-shy.---Oh but it's tempting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Pr...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
VA That is for sure one interesting and different looking Prentiss.
As for the ride, may be first look in the mirror and see if the skin on top of your scalp has started healing from the last ride where you nearly decapitated yourself
“endeavor to persevere” my friend!
MayerMR
Well-known member
Hey fellas,
I recently acquired this nice Wilton bullet vise, but I can't identify its actual model.
It's a 4.5'' jaw, date code is 7-53 and on the static body the stamp *appears* to say "9450"; though it's admittedly hard to read. However, on the dynamic jaw it says "8450". The vise is in quite good condition, but does need refreshed.
I'm hoping someone's knowledge of these vises might help me figure out if I have a 9450 or a 8450. Also hoping that someone may be able to tell me the difference between the two as I really can't find much on the differences.
Thanks fellas!
I recently acquired this nice Wilton bullet vise, but I can't identify its actual model.
It's a 4.5'' jaw, date code is 7-53 and on the static body the stamp *appears* to say "9450"; though it's admittedly hard to read. However, on the dynamic jaw it says "8450". The vise is in quite good condition, but does need refreshed.
I'm hoping someone's knowledge of these vises might help me figure out if I have a 9450 or a 8450. Also hoping that someone may be able to tell me the difference between the two as I really can't find much on the differences.
Thanks fellas!
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gman007
Well-known member
Mayer I am not a Wilton expert but I believe that the model number is 9450 and it is normal for the dynamic jaw to be stamped with 8450. In general the 9000 series normally seem to have the dynamic jaws stamp of 8000 (eg 9350 -8350, 9400-8400, 9450-8450, etc.) Here are some examples
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94265&page=3
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1393865#post1393865
New guy to the forum here. I recently picked up a C.Parker no. 49 vise with 4” jaws. I have done some reading about them but cannot seem to find any info about the No. 49 model. Can anyone help me with this. It is going into my little Blacksmith shop and put to work. It works very smoothly still and looks to have had new faces put on the jaws at some point. It weighs over 40lbs and will be put back into service soon.
Great site here!
Great site here!
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gman007
Well-known member
Kolive Supposedly the Parker#49 has a 4 1/4" jaw, weighs around 60# and was probably made in early 1900s (1906-1930). It looks like for most part it is in fairly decent shape except for the jaw inserts and possibly the collar.
Even though it hard to tell from the photos, it seems the original jaw inserts have been replaced with some kind of home made plates that were welded to the jaws, which is a real pity. The jaw inserts should look like the ones in the attached photos. They are hard to come by and because of the unique and difficult geometry expensive to reproduce.
Again it is hard to tell from the photos, but the main screw collar/garter (see the 5th attached photo) also looks like might not be the original or might be damaged.
If you have better photos, it might be helpful.
PS
I have also attached a photo of A Parker 59 (4 3/4" 80#) which belongs to one of my buddies and which is closer in age and model to your 49. You can see the same jaw insert configuration as well as collar as in the other photos.
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va.grouseman
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Gman, I VOW TO ENDEAVOR TO PERSEVERE SIR!!!
MayerMR
Well-known member
Hey thanks very much gman!
Gman007, Thank You for the info. I knew the jaw repair was non standard, the jaws are now smooth faced because of the repair. But for what I am doing with hot steel, these will most likely leave no marks which is good for me as I leave plenty of forging marks already. Obviously my techniques need refining ��. So far the vise is sound, smooth and strong and it is a very nice working tool. A nice addition to my shop for a hundred year old tool.
gman007
Well-known member
Kolive And with a little bit of care, it should last at least another 100 years (unlike the Chinese ****) .
The 9450 and 8450 are casting numbers, not model numbers. The model number is 450S because it has a swivel base, a stationary base would be a 450N. Earliest Wilton's up to around 1945 were single digit model numbers, 3, 4, 5,. Then around 1945 they became 2 digit numbers, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50 still with a S or N suffix for the base. This may have been because Wilton added 1/2" increment vises. Then around 1950 Wilton started making the heavier duty 3 digit series in the 3" and up vises, still using the s or N suffix. For a time they were selling the old regular duty and heavy duty vises at the same time. The model 20 baby bullet never changed to a 3 digit number, the model 25 "toddler" stayed 2 digit for a while too.
mc_advrider
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I probably wasn't clear, but yes the handle won't move at all and the PO already removed the ring. Since I just purchased a cheap welder, I'll take the advice to use it to weld a small bolt to the cover to pry it off. I'll update soon.
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CRSINMICH
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gman007
Well-known member
Bluebolt Are you sure about this? I think 450 N and 450 S were later models and had parts numbers 101162-101163 on the jaws. And in the vise spread sheet there are separate entries for 9450 and 450 N/S.
Here is a link as well as photos showing 450 N and S and the part numbers
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1400066&postcount=1770
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Fretters
Well-known member
First thing I'd personally try would be tapping that handle with a mallet, anti-clockwise,to see if you can get any movement whatsoever from it.
mc_advrider
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It looks like the PO already spent some time smacking it with a hammer and I haven't been able to get the handle to budge.
My attempt to weld a bolt on today failed because the auto darkening helmet doesn't seem to be working. I'm going to purchase a decent helmet later this week.
Here's the $25 welder with the helmet and vice that were thrown in with the deal:
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mc_advrider
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Thanks!
MayerMR
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Before buying a new one check the battery on that old one.
If I were you I'd finish removing that rear cover and then set it on end in a bucket. Then mix 50/50 acetone and power steering fluid and send it down the barrel/screw. Heat and repeat for a week or so. Keep patient and you may be able to get the screw to let go. If the screw is that rusted my guess is that you'll likely have to use my hitch ball trick to get the ram it as well. Don't be tempted to try to use the screw to force the ram out bc it'll break the c-bracket
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Razorhunter
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Somebody go buy this awesome Parker in Onstead, Michigan for $50 before I talk the seller into shipping it to me. Its even got the screw/pin holes for the jaws, which appear to be stock. Not sure, but I know you Parker fanatics know for sure. Either way, Its worth every bit of $50
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Fierljeppen
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gman007...I think that Bluebolt is correct.
I too, thought that 9450 was a model #, as I own one. But, after doing some research, I couldn't find any documentation other than models# 450N and 450S since 1950.
Check out the attached 1950 catalog page for reference.
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trijeff
Well-known member
One thing on this 1740 I hadn't seen before (but only done maybe 8 or so Tradesmans) is that the pipe jaws are machined steel instead of the cast irons I usually see. Unfortunately a little chewed on one side from welding, but these are so much better quality than the cast I decided to keep them on there. Anybody else seen these before?
It's from Nov. 1996 if that makes a difference
It's from Nov. 1996 if that makes a difference
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gman007
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MayerMR
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Is this in reference to that badass Chas Parker vise on the previous page? Damn it's a beaut.
FMC1959
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It is a nice looking job.
I initially though it was spray on bedliner at first glance.
Thanks for posting that Fierljeppen that is the EXACT catalog page I got my information from and perfectly shows the transition to the new HD vises. The HD 400 and 450 are beasts compared to a 40 and 45.
ALLFAST
Well-known member
TriJeff,
My tradesman at work is from 1997 and it's pipers are beautifully machined as well. It's most likely things were of higher quality 20 years back. I'm not sure of the cutoff for the switch to cast . This is a 5 incher and we use it pretty much daily at work and its never let us down . I field stripped it last Summer, wire wheeled it and shot her in Valspar paint primer Leaf green.
Nice work on yours !
My tradesman at work is from 1997 and it's pipers are beautifully machined as well. It's most likely things were of higher quality 20 years back. I'm not sure of the cutoff for the switch to cast . This is a 5 incher and we use it pretty much daily at work and its never let us down . I field stripped it last Summer, wire wheeled it and shot her in Valspar paint primer Leaf green.
Nice work on yours !
