b-boy
Well-known member
It's almost as big of travesty as Canadians putting gravy on French fries
It's called poutine, and it is fantastic! This coming from an American.
Air compressor lines - Whole garage distribution system -Ideas/Feedback wanted
- Thread starter gsebast1
- Start date
It's called poutine, and it is fantastic! This coming from an American.
Tinkerman66
Banned
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Many items are used in situations in which they weren't designed for and work just fine, so what's your point?
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
The point is the manufacturers say their product is not for use with compressed air because it's not safe. As LS6Tommy said in his post:
There have been a couple reports here on the board in recent months from people who have had PVC lines fail spontaneously in their shops. It can and does happen. It's not anecdotal.
It has to do with the materials science of PVC pipe, you can't get around that.
We can't stop people from doing what they want to, but it would be foolish for any of us to recommend using a product in a manner that is not safe.
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Asport
Well-known member
Rapid Air. Super easy and easily changed.
danb35
Well-known member
What I can find on that stuff looks very nice, but I don't see dealers with a brief web search--where does one buy it?
Notgrownup
Well-known member
Tinkerman66
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You could use a hammer to kill someone. Not it's recommended use and probably not what the manufacturer wants you to do with it, but does the job.
Notgrownup
Well-known member
Gravy on French fries is absolutely normal...
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
This sounds interesting. Would you be looking at a considerable difference in cost over copper? I was leaning towards copper but will look ar SS. I have a buddy that runs SS and likes the Swagelok fittings for natural gas work. So he has all the tools required and probably would get a kick out of finding another avenue for his talent.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Heretic!!
It matters not. It still work hardens still fractures catastrophically
truckin-on
Active member
I used 1/2 galvanized pipe for my shop, using the best practices suggestions TP Tools has in in their air system plumbing guide. I have drains at each low point, and sloped the main line downward from the compressor. The advantage of galvanized or black pipe is that it acts as a dryer of sorts in that the moisture condenses out as the air moves through the lines. It's been installed for ~10 years now, and no issues, and no rusty water anywhere. It helped that I had a bunch of fittings laying around, and a pipe threader, but it's really very easy to assemble and install if you take your time.
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
Question. If you are using copper could you use a pipe bender similar to conduit stubs for your corners?
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Copper tubing, yes.....copper pipe, no. Know which one you are working with.
Notch1988
Well-known member
Also look at Hoke gyrolok fittings, same as Swagelok only much cheaper.
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
Ohm. I was thinking pipe, I didn’t even think about tubing option. Never working with tubing before would normal copper pipe fitting work, say like a Sharkbite? Why not pipe? EMT is easy enough to do. Is there not enough wall to work with in standard copper pipe?
Notch Thanks I will mention this to my buddy. We worked for the local NG supplier for our area, who would likely only use what they thought was the best. He is a free lancer now and might be interested in a second choice.
Notch Thanks I will mention this to my buddy. We worked for the local NG supplier for our area, who would likely only use what they thought was the best. He is a free lancer now and might be interested in a second choice.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Hard Copper pipe can absolutely be bent. It can not be M as its to thin and will kink.
L and K bends nicely. I use ridgid ratchet benders. 378 for 3/4" pipe and 358 for 1/2" pipe.
Ridgid also makes an expander to expand copper pipe eliminating couplers and one joint. Rothenberger make tee pullers to eliminate tees.
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Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
Thanks for the info. I had thought of simply using my Greenlee pipe bender. Which would be preferable the L or K pipe?
Red 17
Well-known member
RapidAir 1/2" kit sitting in the debris field that is my garage, awaiting installation. I'm going to use some 1/2" galvanized that I had in the old garage--it's already pretty much made up for drops already and I'll use it in the more vulnerable parts of the garage. When I'm done, I'll have too many air outlets, which is just about right now that electric impacts have gotten so good.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Well K is heavier but is pretty expensive and normally special order. L is available every where
I don't know which greenlee bender bender you have but the Hand benders(benifield) won't work and I dont think that there are pipe size dies(conduit OD are different) for them. The 555 manual just list dies for RMC, IMC, and EMT.
Tubing benders (copper pipe of happens to match up with the next size up tubing, 3/4" pipe is 7/8 OD and 1/2 pipe is 5/8 OD) support the tube much better than conduit benders, both on the inside and out side of the bend.
I don't know which greenlee bender bender you have but the Hand benders(benifield) won't work and I dont think that there are pipe size dies(conduit OD are different) for them. The 555 manual just list dies for RMC, IMC, and EMT.
Tubing benders (copper pipe of happens to match up with the next size up tubing, 3/4" pipe is 7/8 OD and 1/2 pipe is 5/8 OD) support the tube much better than conduit benders, both on the inside and out side of the bend.
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Ohmthis
Well-known member
Are you anneling the pipe? I’ve never been able to bend hard pipe, maybe I’m not using the right bender. Tube is already anneled and is easily moved until it work hardens. I’m going to check out the bender you are using as it sounds much like the bender I use for HVAC piping. Thanks!
Ohmthis
Well-known member
My bender is a yellow jacket brand, but otherwise is the same. It’s a much different bender than yours and mine will kink hard pipe as mine is made for soft tubing. A style like the ridged supports the pipe and actually pulls the pipe around the die. Here is the bender that I use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPPDK70/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPPDK70/?tag=atomicindus08-20
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Mr onetwo
Well-known member
By all the manufacturers of PVC pipe and fittings....that's who.PVC and it's solvent cement will not hold up to the oil in compressed air and the shock loads involved over time.Heat is a factor also.That being said...it's your life and you can use whatever material you choose.
I won't be going in your shop, so I don't care. 
I had one of those sitting in my garage also and decided not to use it. The 1/2 kit uses cheap plastic tubing. I would use the 3/4 that is pex al pex — aluminum reinforced. But I did not have time to get another kit and none of the local store stocked the aluminum pex at reasonable prices so I went with 1/2 copper — lots of fittings to solder. It’s all buried in the walls now.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
No need to anneal to bend it with a ridgid ratchet bender(or an imperial bench or geared bender for that matter. The expander and tee puller require annealing a spot or end to work however.
Yea, those benders would never work on hard pipe, nothing but kinks. Conduit benders, even if they were the right size have the same issue.
bczygan
Well-known member
How about Sharkbite fittings with copper pipe?
Bill
Bill
Sharkbite should hold but I chose to solder. When testing my 140’ of copper piping, I used shark bite to cap the ends and to connect/adapt to a hose for the compressor. Held 155 psi no problem. Obviously this was a short term test not years of use. Water pressure might be 1/3 of that.
gerryw
Well-known member
I used 1/2” copper, the thin stuff (L?) 60 gallon comp, glass beader and the usual air tools, 6 outlets (4 being @ each corner of car) single person use.
I hope it lasts, i installed it in September.........1999 lol
I dont have any experience with other methods, but its nice having all the supplies available @ any big box store.
Gerry
Edit; 20x20 garage with comp in basement
I hope it lasts, i installed it in September.........1999 lol
I dont have any experience with other methods, but its nice having all the supplies available @ any big box store.
Gerry
Edit; 20x20 garage with comp in basement
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bczygan
Well-known member
I'm leaning toward copper, soldered where I can, with Sharkbite for modification ability where needed. This because of heat dissipation and SS is much more expensive.
Will brass compression fittings and connections work? My compressor uses them on the copper line between pump and tank.
Bill
Will brass compression fittings and connections work? My compressor uses them on the copper line between pump and tank.
Bill
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LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
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LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
SgtHawkUSMC
Well-known member
I've run systems in several of my garages over the years. I'm a backyard mechanic that likes to do things "right." I paint occasionally and use quite a few different air tools. What I've learned, for my needs, is the following:
1. I love the attached design and it's what I base my set up on. I don't run a dryer, but I'd like to at some point. I also don't run a looped system. Mine is dead headed.
2. I've always run 1/2" copper, but in my new garage I'll be running 3/4" at least for the main feed and then 1/2" drops.
3. I would NEVER run black pipe. I had a 12" piece in my system temporarily
for a while. When I went to remove it, it had a bunch of rust scale inside. No thanks...
1. I love the attached design and it's what I base my set up on. I don't run a dryer, but I'd like to at some point. I also don't run a looped system. Mine is dead headed.
2. I've always run 1/2" copper, but in my new garage I'll be running 3/4" at least for the main feed and then 1/2" drops.
3. I would NEVER run black pipe. I had a 12" piece in my system temporarily
for a while. When I went to remove it, it had a bunch of rust scale inside. No thanks...
Not saying PVC is safe, but that is the very definition of anecdotal
Slackerzinc
Well-known member
pcmeiners
Well-known member
Copper...
Minimize the use of Tee(s), use sweeps verses standard Els, full flow valves verses normally restricted valves, same with check valves if needed.
Minimize the use of Tee(s), use sweeps verses standard Els, full flow valves verses normally restricted valves, same with check valves if needed.
myredracer
Well-known member
Copper seems like the logical choice to me. It helps in cooling the air too. I ran about 40' of 3/4" copper between the compressor and outlet station (several regulators, quick connects and dryer & filters). You need to ensure the pipe is sloped for drainage. I'm always amazed at how much water I drain out of the pipe. Not sure why some folks hesitate about soldering the joints and worrying about leaks. Recommended practice is to run a loop around a shop like in the diagram above but for a home shop a one-way run should be okay.
Poutine is disgusting and I'm Canadian. It originated in Quebec AFAIK and we don't see it much in the west (thank god). The only thing to use on fries is white vinegar. White vinegar is hard to find in the US and I have to take some with us when we do our RV-ing in the summer-time. I swiped a bunch of packs of it from McD....
I made a 180 degree bend with about a 6-8" radius in 3/4" soft copper by filling it with sand. Looks dang good and is exposed on a wall. I hung a round clock inside the bend.
Poutine is disgusting and I'm Canadian. It originated in Quebec AFAIK and we don't see it much in the west (thank god). The only thing to use on fries is white vinegar. White vinegar is hard to find in the US and I have to take some with us when we do our RV-ing in the summer-time. I swiped a bunch of packs of it from McD....
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