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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

lilscorpion

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Mar 15, 2010
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Colorado
sakurama said:
The other thing I learned with this bike is Deutsch connectors. Strangley Harley uses them but not BMW but they're the best connectors ever. You can get solid pins instead of the tin ones and while they require an expensive plier to crimp them the quality is top notch. Waterproof, smooth and easy to open and also easy to disassemble to change pin configuration. I bought a kit and tossed my other plugs.



The best crimper is the Daniels or DMC AF8 but it's silly expensive but if you're patient you can find a deal on ebay. I got mine for $120. There are cheaper pliers but what makes these so great is that they crimp the wire in four places ensuring a solid connection. Pair that with the solid pins and you have an amazing connector.



Gregor


Oh hell Gregor, I’ve been putting off getting into the Deutsch connectors because of the price. Each time I look at them I see $400’s. I looked on eBay but found there are different “turret heads”. What do you know about them? Are they unique to the size of the commector? They all look the same to me.

Matt
 
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elvee

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Nov 1, 2006
Messages
309
Location
Atlanta, GA
Interesting on the Deutsch connectors - my 2001 Dodge 2500 has one pair on it - for the diesel lift pump. Everything else is weatherpak style connectors. I need to build a new power harness for that pump, and found a workaround on crimping the pins for that one connector. Maybe if I can find an affordable set of crimpers....

Thoughts on these versus the seemingly more common weatherpak connectors? Contemplating a rewire on my 71 Wagoneer, and was looking at using those for all the harness connectors.
 

igormortis

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Sep 6, 2014
Messages
3
Go go go! Loving your work, Gregor. As usual (long time lurker - sorry if that’s creepy)!

I was gonna post some pics of how I usually do the driveshaft bolts, but I’m not allowed to yet.

Basically it’s torque wrench + 8mm hex bit socket + combined 8mm and 10mm ring spanner (I think you say box wrench?). Apply the right formula and you’re good to go.

*edit so apparently I can’t post links either! What I was trying to insert:

fordservicecontent.com/renderers/torquewrench/wrench_formula_main_en.asp
flic.kr/p/2bifo1e
flic.kr/p/2bifnX8
 
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sakurama

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Oct 10, 2010
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Portland - the cool one.
The other day I needed to make some metric threaded aluminum bungs to replace the plastic ones that were more english threads.

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I ended finding one small scrape in my bin that would work but I was very down on my aluminum bar stock.

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So the next day I needed to run some errands and one of the stops was to Metal Supermarkets to pick up more stock. I'm not sure what projects I need it for but I'm not getting caught out again.

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And for lilscorpion - one head should cover almost all the needs.

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Here's a shot comparing the standard auto connector - the left is one from a Ducati harness and the right is the Deutsch Connetor. Look closely and you can see that there are 8 tiny crimps holding the wire securely. In addition you can find solid pins and sockets instead of the tin ones and they're much stronger.

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This red-blue-yellow head covers from 12-22ga. wire which is pretty much everything I need this for.

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The other errand was to pick up my heads.

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This set of heads cost more than 20% of what I paid for the bike. And they are the nicest part of the bike at the moment. Kibblewhite Black Diamond valves in 40/44mm (stock RS size) and heavier dual springs and titanium caps plus Baisley custom valve guides with custom machined oil seals. They're very nice.

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The next errand was to the bearing supply house for a new needle bearing for the clutch arm pivot. The seals were gone and the "axle" was badly scored so I made a new one in stainless.

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My restored Greenerd No. 2 sits quietly but is always super helpful. I always press my bearings with sockets because they come in all the sizes and are more than strong enough. If you don't have a press you can use a vise or clamp but sockets are your friend.

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I put the rear brake together...

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...but much like the clutch pivot as I put things together I find issues. While trying to set the rear brake it wasn't returning positively so I pulled the wheel and found that one of the inner hub springs was missing.

I also decided that I needed to make another run to BMW for parts. I'm going to put in a set of new rod big end bearings - they're not bad and they're the stock size so replacing them is just an easy thing to do. Also I'm going to put a new set of rings in as well. If they have them in stock. I decided that after getting the new cylinders/pistons - they're fine but new rings - why not? It's apart. I had to overnight the rod bearings so if they don't have the rings than the pistons will go in as they sit.

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I always leave myself notes about oil. Once my brother drowned my XR400 in a stream crossing and after pushing/towing it out of the woods we took it to the shop and drained the water and oil. We then filled it with fresh oil, ran it to warm and then drained it. We repeated that several times and then went riding. Forgetting to do the last oil fill. It ran great for two miles.

So after that I put tape notes on the bike.

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My bead blaster has been really weak as of late. It gives a nice sheen but is terribly slow.

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I blasted the top of one of the old pistons and I'm bit nervous as the finish is super aggressive. I may look around and see if I can find a finer grit because this 80 grit is like... 80 grit. No luster. I got the cylinders and they're clean inside and filthy outside. I'm sure they'd look fine with this grit but I certainly don't want to do the carbs with this...

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Lastly, after putting the airbox in and out about a dozen times, I committed to putting the rear tank/subframe on.

We used to have a joke about our bike projects in Spannerland - 90% done and 90% left to go.

Punch list for tomorrow/Thursday:

  1. clean and blast new cylinders
  2. clean pistons
  3. rebuild carburetors
  4. new rod end bearings
  5. new piston rings
  6. install top end
  7. adjust valves
  8. set timing
  9. change tires
  10. repair rear brake spring
  11. put on oil cooler
  12. fill engine with oil
  13. put body and tanks on
  14. test ride and check fasteners
  15. change oil again
  16. change oil in rear bevel drive
  17. balance tires

So this isn't a walk in the park - there's a lot to do and plenty can go wrong. I have no room for error.

Gregor
 
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sakurama

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Gregor is this rubber hose over the rear brake line? Wear prevention from boot friction or does it serve some other purpose?
Great write up as always.

Wow, good catch - I took it apart and put it back so many times and that little boot sat there and I couldn’t remember where it went...

Thanks!

Gregor
 

Cseger1

Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
22
Location
Texas, near Houston
I just watched the ig stories, you play the same playlist as me and the wife in our dairy. Jesus and Mary Chain with a side of Depeche Mode. We have an OSHA sort of joke, It's been 2 days since we played a Cure song in the dairy...
 
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stsmytherie

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Dec 16, 2005
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176
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VT
I've been thinking about getting a benchtop blast box just and walnut shell just for delicate stuff.
 
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sakurama

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Location
Portland - the cool one.
I just watched the ig stories, you play the same playlist as me and the wife in our dairy. Jesus and Mary Chain with a side of Depeche Mode. We have an OSHA sort of joke, It's been 2 days since we played a Cure song in the dairy...

I love that cows are listening to good music. I have to ask though - do they like the Dead Milkmen? Cause that would be creepy. Anyway, I'm sure the milk tastes better with 90's alternative.

I've been thinking about getting a benchtop blast box just and walnut shell just for delicate stuff.

It's one of my favorite tools. You can see progress on IG today - with the right media it's killing it.

Gregor
 
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sakurama

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As I come into my last day I've hit a few snags and there's little room for them.

One was the glass bead that I bought. It was the wrong one. I sadly went to Harbor Freight and while I have a long history of regretting anything I buy there i still go back on occasion. I figured glass bead would be an easy one. Nope. It was to coarse. Dan at Baisley's tipped me on where they get there and what grade and so I took the time this morning to make the run.

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With the right grade (Potters AC) the parts came out great. I had Baisley's check them out and they thought they were in good shape to put back so I changed the blast cabinet media and cleaned the cylinders.

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I got the call my new big end bearings were in on my way back from Kleen-Blast and swung by to get them. As soon as I got home I put the shells in and tightened up the stretch bolts to their torque.

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I had marked the pistons so I wouldn't get them mixed up and then I found the "motorcycle goes this way" arrow.

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Compressed the rings and slid the piston home into the bore with a bit of oil all around.

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I like to start the wrist pins while on the bench so they're easier to get in once you mount the cylinder.

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I changed the o-rings on the studs and the base and slid the jugs on and then put on the pushrod seals.

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As I mounted the first head I suddenly saw this port at the front of the head going into the exhaust port. I'd not seen it before. It was open. That was bad.

I checked the other head and was relieved to find there were plugs in them so I had to turn a socket down to fit so I could get them out.

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You'll never guess what the threads were. The bolt was an english thread and my heads were of course metric. The old heads just had the bolt run into the metric threads but with a copper crush washer. It worked fine but I wasn't about to do that.

I called the BMW dealer to see if they had block offs or a kit or anything and the person I spoke to had never heard of it, had no parts and wasn't a help. I started poking around the shop for an M16x1.5 bolt removing a few drain plugs as that was all I could think would be that large. I called Tacoma screw and they had a 30mm m16 bolt but they were closing.

Thankfully I'd been posting images to my IG story and @robbub saw it and immediately texted me the correct part number for a BMW drain plug. I called the dealer and this time spoke to someone who knew what was happening and I got there just as they closed for my 5th trip there this week. Thanks Rob!

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That's a much neater solution. I can get the heads on and get this going.

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One head was put on and I was feeling my momentum, feeling hopeful when Jwoo came into the garage to tell me I needed to be dressed as we were leaving in 20 minutes. For what? A Laphroaig whiskey tasting dinner. Man, talk about conflicts.

I said I'd love to but I needed to get the bike done. And she told me I had to go because she needed me to take photos - not an option, we had a babysitter, it was steak and Scotch. I like smokey Scotch...

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So I know, I know - my diamond shoes are too tight. I still think I can get this together tomorrow if nothing goes wrong.

And when has anything gone wrong yet?

Gregor
 
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sakurama

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Man, what a long day.

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I got the heads on and torqued down.

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I set the valve clearance on both sides.

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Set the timing the wrong way.

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Knowing I had very little time I decided to rebuild the ebay 40mm Bings instead of just robbing the ones I rebuilt two weeks ago from the RS. This is the third set of Bings I've rebuilt in the couple of months.

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Man, they were filthy. Some of the jets were so clogged that I had to run a copper wire through them before I could even get carb cleaner in there. But I got the carbs rebuilt.

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I then mounted the carbs backwards. For some reason the first one didn't even register but the second made me think I had two lefts and then I realized what I did and swapped them.

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My McMaster order came in with my Nylock 12 x 1.5 nuts for the engine mounting bolts. I always prefer to use Nylock anywhere I can.

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I finally got it all together and the first try didn't start which was just as well as it pumped oil through the engine. I was pretty certain I'd messed up the timing since it wasn't even popping and sure enough I'd set the timing wrong.

Once the timing was set the idle was super high. I kept adjusting the cables down until I had no more adjustment. I ended up putting the lock nut under the carb land to get enough adjustment. I fiddled with the cables, the mixture and the idle screw and got a decent idle then took it for a quick spin.

The engine was much smoother and much more powerful. It pulled hard and seemed very tight. It sounded very smooth.

I put it back on the lift and thought I'd start with the front tire since that would be easy. It was sooooooo heavy! I put the front wheel on the scale and it was 29.5lbs and as a reference a dirt bike wheel was 15lbs. I got the tire off with a lot of difficulty and found it had a tube. I then struggled for over two hours trying to get the new tire to seat and take air. I got so exasperated that I ended up calling Ben for help. I can't see any reason you'd want these rims if you're can't run tubeless. There's an easy 25-30lbs to be lost by ditching the wheels.

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He brought his gear over and then helped me change the tires which were real bears.

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It's probably complete foolishness to ride the bike around the block one time and then put it in the van and drive to NV for the weekend. But I'm going to do it. The bike is a beast but I'm going to use this as the chance to get familiar with it and figure out what I can do to improve it some more.

Worse comes to worst and I'll rent a bike from Jimmy but I think that she's going to do fine.

Now I have to find my gear and get packed...

Gregor
 

Brian_P

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Jan 27, 2017
Messages
47
Location
Georgia
The bike project has been fun to watch - never seen a non-professional do this much in 10 days (and still have it run at the end). It's a really beautiful engine.
 

rk_tek

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Apr 12, 2015
Messages
153
Location
Bella Vista, AR
VICTORY!!! For many, just the engine rebuild would have been challenge enough. You have done many sub-projects within this project and still completed it. Way to grind hard and get it done. now ride the wheels off of it so you can do a wheel swap and lose some rotating mass.
 

Vertigo Cycles

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Jan 14, 2010
Messages
193
Location
Portland, OR
Amazing! I love it when you add to this thread. It's a good kick in the **** when I'm patting myself on the back for removing the ten year old, dry rotted gasket from the group head of my coffee machine.

Also, if you ever need to bail from a Laphroaig tasting and need someone to take your place, you have my number.
 
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dhubbard422

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Jan 16, 2011
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472
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Texas Hill Country
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Your bike looks great! I hope you have a very enjoyable weekend of riding!

Working on this bike has really made me excited to get the RS on the road. It needs steering head bearings but that seemed like too much hassle...

Something tells me you'll be able to change the steering head bearings on your RS without breaking a sweat. :bowdown: I'm in the process of replacing mine, they were loose and/or worn and I just decided I'd just as soon replace them since I was upgrading the forks. Anyway, I was a bit surprised by how much stuff I had to remove...

Look forward to hearing a ride report!
 
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sakurama

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It's been a while since I've had to build a motor on a deadline. When I raced it happened a fair amount but I didn't have kids or a family so building this engine, sort of coming off the engine building couch, was a challenge that I really enjoyed right up until I ran out of time.

If I were to look at the things that put me on the ropes it was the scotch tasting (totally worth it) and the decision to not steal the carbs I'd just rebuilt off the RS but rebuild yet a third set of Bings. Oh, and trying to seal up those stupid tubeless wheels. I was almost considering keeping them until I spent two hours wrestling with them and then putting them on the scale. Gone.

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With very little sleep Friday morning I grabbed my gear and tossed it in the van. Ben came over and we wedged both bikes into the van - it was beyond a tight fit.

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We met this very cool dude who was traveling around the west coast after importing this awesome little Suzuki pickup. It had a rooftop tent on the back and locking differentials and could probably have fit inside the van.

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Usually Ben and I like to split the trip up so we're not doing the full 14 hours in one shot but since it took me so long to wrap the bike up we drove all day and then into the night. Getting in at 2am before our 8am class was less than ideal.

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The bike ran well all morning but the starter was starting to not start. Pushing the button would spin the starter but then it might just stop even though the button was pushed. It felt like a loose connection.

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The thing about Jimmy's class is that it's very simple and focuses on only two things: balance and traction.

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The first day deals almost entirely with balance. The answer from Jimmy to almost any question is, "Are you in balance on the bike? Can you take your hands off the bar?" This focus drills down through many myths of riding such as the perennial key to sand riding - get back and gas it. All wrong.

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Many of the demonstrations involve tricky or difficult riding done by Jimmy with a single hand on the bar while casually explaining how he's perfectly in balance. It's illuminating.

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By day two I was comfortable on the bike but dreading the dunes. This bike is 200lbs heavier than my 500 KTM and makes about the same power. I surprised myself by riding the "advanced" course that we'd done last year on the big BMW. Even the steep dunes I was able to climb, staying balanced, light on the bars and snapping the throttle open and closed to keep regaining traction. Here's a link to a quick video Ben shot of me on the side slope dune.

Sadly towards the end of day one the bike just quit starting. You could hear the relay click but the starter wouldn't spin. Jimmy gave me a bump and Heather took me back to base and loaned me Jimmy's KTM 500 rally bike, "it's the biggest bike so it will be more like your BMW..." Sorta.

On day two we talked about traction in relation to balance. Where to be on the bike and how to manage traction. The turning drills on the dry lakebed are a blast as traction is plentiful and predictable. I gave my Sony A9 to Heather who did a pretty good job getting shots of me and the rest of the other students actually riding.

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Ben made peace with the big KTM 1290 although vowed he'd not do the class again on a big bike. I don't blame him.

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I didn't think I'd get to a place where I'd feel comfortable sliding both wheels on the big BMW but after the drills on the lakebed I was feeling really good.

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As the class left the lakebed I got left behind by the "advanced" group. I saw the sweep riding disappearing and figured it was time to see if I could actually ride the bike fast. I put my head down and pulled the throttle to the stop and caught the sweep rider in less than a mile and then proceeded to pass my way up to the front and catch Jimmy. I think I surprised a lot of guys on KTM 500's when the bike roared past - it's not quiet.

When Jimmy saw me he put his head down and dropped me like a lead weight but that's to be expected. What wasn't expected was being able to ride the pace that I rode. It gives me some hope that I can make a much better and effective bike starting from scratch.

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Sadly, when we got the gravel pit the bike's starter finally quit. The day before I'd found the wire from the relay to the solenoid seemed loose and recrimped it and got the bike running but now that didn't work. I shorted the posts on the starter and got it to spin but not engage the flywheel so I'm assuming the solenoid is shot. Funnily enough this was the Valeo starter from the original bike so I'll replace it with the Bosch one that was in the donor block. That leaves only the valve covers from the original bike.

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So the upside was that I was able to shoot some nice photos of the bike in the gravel pit - the downside was that I didn't get to ride it there.

I came away from the weekend with a long list of changes that need to be made to improve the bike. Some are minor, like the bars which have a vintage rise and sweep putting me in an awkward position all weekend. Others are major like the wheels and brakes.

The wheels are like anchors and the brakes are not. I spoke to Chris at Woody's and I'll be getting a new custom rear hub and 18" rim laced up right away. The other thing that Jimmy pointed out that was already on my list was putting a disk on the back. The drum is heavy, dead feeling, primitive yet completely ineffective. I knew before I wanted to change it but riding the bike at pace solidified the decision.

The front brake lacks feel and the lever hits the housing giving you manual ABS as I discovered in the braking drills. I put a screw in the lever to gain leverage but the reach became long and then I was able to fade the brakes very quickly. I'll replace the entire front end and upgrade the brakes significantly.

The last thing was the breather. I didn't quite understand that chamber as my R90S didn't have that but there was a pinhole there that would allow oil to drain back into the case. There was nothing like that on the original block even though the hole was drilled and tapped. I'm going to make a breather tank and drain. As it ran that pinhole misted the right side with oil when run hard but it looked worse than it was as the bike was covered in dust.

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The engine actually got quieter all weekend. I hadn't gotten the carbs fully synced when we left but kept fiddling with them through the weekend and found a super relaxed idle with no valve noise. Power was up massively from the previous engine but I'd still like a bit more.

Most of my focus will be cutting weight and fixing the various points of interface with the bike. Pegs, bars, levers, shifters etc all need to be dialed in and reworked so they're light, sensitive and in the right place. This goes a long way towards making the bike feel good. Jimmy thought the engine was a solid choice and his suggestions mirrored my thoughts so it's good to know I'm on the right track.

So overall the weekend was a big win. Lots learned about riding and bikes and it was a fun all the while.

Totally worth that brutal 10 day build.

Gregor
 

dhubbard422

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Jan 16, 2011
Messages
472
Location
Texas Hill Country
Sounds like you had a super weekend! I love taking riding classes. It seems that I always learn something new. It's also been a while, I should put some riding classes on my calendar for next year...

Thanks for sharing. Love the pics and the report. Kudos for finishing your BMW and taking the class (or most of it) on your bike!
 

locul

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Joined
May 13, 2010
Messages
98
Would you please not stop doing, whatever you do.
We need complete inside knowledge of this Bavarian. Which forks are mounted? Any thoughts of sealing the rims with the 3m extreme tape or carwindows adhesive.
 

locul

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May 13, 2010
Messages
98
What about some see-through screen. Easyer to navigate singletrack and slowspeed.
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sakurama

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Would you please not stop doing, whatever you do.
We need complete inside knowledge of this Bavarian. Which forks are mounted? Any thoughts of sealing the rims with the 3m extreme tape or carwindows adhesive.

The forks are older WR450 forks and aren't that great. The bars are the worst offender - they're vintage in every way. The rims are BMW tubeless rims but they need tubeless tires to be able to actually seal and they're crazy heavy. That front wheel is 30lbs compared to 15lbs for a dirt bike front wheel. I'm going to have Woody lace up a new set of hoops for this in traditional dirt sizes and go with a Tubeliss set up to see how that holds up.

Right now the bike works well. I need to address a few things but overall I'm pleased with the engine - it's the details that need sorting. And this bike is just a temporary test bed - not a final bike that I plan on keeping.

I do like the idea of the screen but it won't work on the set up on this bike. Maybe the next one.

I'll keep you posted on progress.

Gregor
 

Vertigo Cycles

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Jan 14, 2010
Messages
193
Location
Portland, OR
Over the past couple of days, I've gone back and re-read the first 90 or so pages of this thread. Thanks for taking the time to document what you've done; it's illuminating. I'm going to get started on a reworking of our fireplace that will include built-in cabinets, shelves and a desk for my kids. Going back over your work makes my little project seem much less daunting.
 

964haus

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Nov 1, 2010
Messages
498
Location
Vancouver, BC
Gregor,
Always wanted to do Jimmy's class - you think a relative beginner off-roader, on a big KTM950, would be OK in the class?

Great write-up as usual.

Matthew
 

bdking

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May 16, 2013
Messages
94
Location
PDX
Gregor,
Always wanted to do Jimmy's class - you think a relative beginner off-roader, on a big KTM950, would be OK in the class?

For sure it would benefit anyone who wants to ride better off-road. Do it if you can.
 
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sakurama

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Oct 10, 2010
Messages
1,458
Location
Portland - the cool one.
I have taken a lot of classes over the years. It started with Reg Pridmore's Class School which led to road racing and then that led to American Supercamp which was a flat track riding school all about sliding. What each of them have in common with Jimmy is a focus on the basics.

While I've raced for years, ridden professionally and even been sponsored I've never stop learning or being a student. I've found that all advanced techniques have to be firmly rooted in basics. In Pridmore's class it's about being smooth. Supercamp is about position and smooth application of throttle and brake. Jimmy's is about balance and how it relates to traction. All of them stress smoothness.

i-jHVx5jJ-X2.jpg


So absolutely you'd get a lot out of it or any of the classes. I took my 500 out yesterday for it's first ride in the woods and spent the time thinking about my balance. When it's perfect the riding is easier. And it's hard to get more perfect than a fall ride in Tillamook State Forest when the sun is peaking through, the soil is tacky and the temperature is a nice 60°F - picture perfect.

i-WKxGnML-X2.jpg


Jimmy says this a lot: Practice Perfect. Do easy exercises and do them perfectly. It reinforces the good habits and makes it intuitive. Intuitive skills are what save your bacon. Didn't work yesterday as I took a very rare fall... back to basics I guess.

Gregor
 

wmrra13

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Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Messages
93
Location
PNW
The forks are older WR450 forks and aren't that great....

That front wheel is 30lbs compared to 15lbs for a dirt bike front wheel. I'm going to have Woody lace up a new set of hoops for this in traditional dirt sizes and go with a Tubeliss set up to see how that holds up.

Thanks for sharing all your exploits.

I REALLY like the Look of that bike, I think you nailed the aesthetic and it looks like a blast to ride.

Why not just use a WR450 wheel?

That dry lake bed is a blast! I was fortunate enough to go on a multi-day ride down there with Chuck Sun about 15 years ago. We spent a bit of time seeing how small of a circle we could make WFO in top gear.
 

dhubbard422

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
472
Location
Texas Hill Country
I have taken a lot of classes over the years. ...

So absolutely you'd get a lot out of it or any of the classes. I took my 500 out yesterday for it's first ride in the woods and spent the time thinking about my balance. When it's perfect the riding is easier. And it's hard to get more perfect than a fall ride in Tillamook State Forest when the sun is peaking through, the soil is tacky and the temperature is a nice 60°F - picture perfect.

i-WKxGnML-X2.jpg


Jimmy says this a lot: Practice Perfect. Do easy exercises and do them perfectly. It reinforces the good habits and makes it intuitive. Intuitive skills are what save your bacon. Didn't work yesterday as I took a very rare fall... back to basics I guess.

Gregor

Thanks for posting this pic! It has triggered memories from more than 15 years ago when I was minding for a Pro rider in the National Trials series. COTA, the Oregon club, hosted an event at the Diamond Mill OHV area near Tillamook. The terrain was amazing and the loop was awesome.

All this talk about practicing the basics makes me wonder if you've tried trials... trials can provide a different perspective on riding. It demands balance, timing and rewards a smooth technique.
 
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