let's see your craftsman block grinders
- Thread starter emeraldcoupe
- Start date
twertsy
Well-known member
I dressed the wheel today after noticing a tiny vibration and she's smooth as butter.
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Picked up this 1/2 commercial last weekend. Are the round tops older than the flats? The flat tops have more amps too, I have 2 of them also (1/2 hp commercial). Has anyone hooked them up to 220? Any difference? I set this one up with diamond wheels for tungsten sharpening. Light works, no quench tray, and original stand. only had one tool rest, but one of my flat tops was missing one too, so that one is complete now as I don't want them on here aanyways. I still have never seen a 1 HP in person, nice score!
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Will McRay
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2013
- Messages
- 85
Picked these two up today. The 1/2 hp one needs to have the light fixture fixed or replaced. Has anyone replaced one before? Looking for insight on others tips and tricks.
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Got a question for you Block experts. I just bought a Pre-Block on the stand. there's dirt, dust and light rust all over the whole thing so it's hard to tell the color. The stand I'm pretty certain is Power Bronze, but it looks like the grinder might be too. Is this possible from the factory? Judging from the rest of the stuff where I bought it - an estate sale - it's almost inconceivable that it was ever repainted!
The model number is hard to read, but blowing it up in Corel PhotoPaint and playing with contrast, color etc, I'm reasonably sure it's 1157566 (no dot visible) and then in the next box to the right, 657. These are all stamped numbers, not printed.
In a related matter, what's the closest match for a Power Bronze repaint? Rusto Hammered Gold looks fairly close, but I don't have any good Power Bronze to comare it to.
Oh, yeah - if any of you have a right side wheel guard you'd like to part with, I'd like to have it. I might leave it as is, with wire wheel or buffer on the right, but I'd like to have the option of a second grinding wheel.
thanx in advance!
The model number is hard to read, but blowing it up in Corel PhotoPaint and playing with contrast, color etc, I'm reasonably sure it's 1157566 (no dot visible) and then in the next box to the right, 657. These are all stamped numbers, not printed.
In a related matter, what's the closest match for a Power Bronze repaint? Rusto Hammered Gold looks fairly close, but I don't have any good Power Bronze to comare it to.
Oh, yeah - if any of you have a right side wheel guard you'd like to part with, I'd like to have it. I might leave it as is, with wire wheel or buffer on the right, but I'd like to have the option of a second grinding wheel.
thanx in advance!
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lafester
Well-known member
Looks original to me. Don't see too many 1/3 hp pre blocks. Mostly 1/4 with the occasional 1/2.
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torqueman2002
Well-known member
That's the same model that I started my Block quest with. Heavy little guy.
Sorry no spare RH wheel guard.
I like the Bronze color, mine was/is a brown (I used Rust-Oleum); there is a thread on the restore, but no photos survived the PhotoBucket kerfuffle.
You may know, that model uses a centrifugal switch (in the RH end bell) to open the start-up winding circuit. Caution is needed when removing the RH end bell, or the switch may be broken.
I will look for a link to a thread on a similar model, and post it here.
Well, that took me less time than I thought it would.
See post #36 for c. switch/bearing details.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=244181
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damon18
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Saw this one for sale locally but has poor pictures and they want $75. Can't quite tell if it's a 1/2 HP? The only description with the ad is "old craftsman grinder".
Is it missing pieces? Shouldn't there be glass guards? It's on a stand that looks factory, are those stable enough for safe use?
Thanks for any info.
Is it missing pieces? Shouldn't there be glass guards? It's on a stand that looks factory, are those stable enough for safe use?
Thanks for any info.
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Based on the end cover style and heavy duty toggle power switch, it is definitely a commercial version (1/2 or 3/4 HP). For this vintage, the eye shields (which are missing) would be plastic and the stand is not original. Assuming it runs smooth, the price is very fair. I have paid more for a worse shape commercial.
This thread has a ton of info and photos including the CM pedestal stand. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249539
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lafester
Well-known member
Do what you can to save that light! I you don't want to fix... send to me.
Love the Vimco lamps.
C1070RS
Well-known member
JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Picked this up a few weeks ago. Runs like a dream. Just going to clean it up, change the wheels and run it as is. Hope to find a period-correct light for it one day.
damon18
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Saw this 1HP Commercial model in Craigslist listing near Little Rock Arkansas.
$700 but it appears virtually brand new.
Thought I'd post the pictures here since they show great detail for the commercial model and stand.
$700 but it appears virtually brand new.
Thought I'd post the pictures here since they show great detail for the commercial model and stand.
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He’s been trying to sell that one for months and is clearly having trouble finding a buyer at his asking price. I think that when I first stumbled upon his ad (may have seen it on eBay first) I think he was looking for $750, so he’s reduced it some. Good idea to post it here for the sake of having the detailed pictures.
Howdy,
I hope I'm not breaking forum etiquette by asking this here but I know there must be a thread on here somewhere for how to date these block grinders (other than look on the bottom for the date). I've read dozens of pages of this and offshoot threads and even done searches and I can't find anything. When I realized there are 500 pages on this thread, I figured I'd just ask.
Also, I read back in one of these CM block threads that someone had a 1/3 HP 257.*** (maybe called varia-something) but it wasn't considered a true block by some. Is there a simple way to determine what is and what ain't, like a year? Or is it like most other things in life, "it depends."
It is a bummer that all the old PB pictures got nixed.
I'll post up my 2 CM blocks I have in a couple of days when I get a chance.
You guys are amazing with what you know and do and also that y'all are willing to share. Pretty cool in my books.
I hope I'm not breaking forum etiquette by asking this here but I know there must be a thread on here somewhere for how to date these block grinders (other than look on the bottom for the date). I've read dozens of pages of this and offshoot threads and even done searches and I can't find anything. When I realized there are 500 pages on this thread, I figured I'd just ask.
Also, I read back in one of these CM block threads that someone had a 1/3 HP 257.*** (maybe called varia-something) but it wasn't considered a true block by some. Is there a simple way to determine what is and what ain't, like a year? Or is it like most other things in life, "it depends."
It is a bummer that all the old PB pictures got nixed.
I'll post up my 2 CM blocks I have in a couple of days when I get a chance.
You guys are amazing with what you know and do and also that y'all are willing to share. Pretty cool in my books.
lafester
Well-known member
Block is any Craftsman cast aluminum frame grinder from the early 60's - 80's. Pre block is the cast iron frame from the 50s.
You can kind of use catalog pictures to date your machine if you need to.
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You can kind of use catalog pictures to date your machine if you need to.
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cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
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That is amazing.
So, it's really possible that when you run across one that looks new or is claimed to be new that it really is just an incredible restoration and you'd really have to know your stuff to tell the difference. Or even scarier, you buy a grinder where they took out the 1/2 and put in a 1/3 or something. Is that possible or would you have to change all the electrical components on it?
So, it's really possible that when you run across one that looks new or is claimed to be new that it really is just an incredible restoration and you'd really have to know your stuff to tell the difference. Or even scarier, you buy a grinder where they took out the 1/2 and put in a 1/3 or something. Is that possible or would you have to change all the electrical components on it?
Twertsy, your name is Todd too?
It will look like this when cleaned up.....
I need to read up on how you guys make those stickers. That just blows me away. I have an old Snap On floor jack I want to redo but I was afraid of messing up/ loosing the sticker.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
Um, those stickers in the pic above are originals from a new block I own, I have several...most never used at all.
BUT there is a guy on ebay and here tha goes by MATTBLAST that owns a high end printer and he can do almost any label you need, see https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356439
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Um, those stickers in the pic above are originals from a new block I own, I have several...most never used at all.
That is a beautiful sight my friend.
Thank you for the tip!
As a collectible, I would be skeptical of NOS unless it’s NIB. These things look great even after a good cleaning. If you’re buying a user and the wires aren’t corroded, the bearings are good - well really, what’s the difference?
You gotta ask, though, how much more is someone willing to pay for a 1/2hp than a 1/3hp? $5 $10? $20?
I suppose if you were dedicated to deception, and parting out a non-functioning 1/2hp, you might “upgrade” a 1/3hp for the couple extra bucks, but I don’t think it could be a common opportunity, and I don’t see how it would net more than just selling it as a loose part.
I think it would be a lot easier to just swap the cover. I have two 1/3hp and one 1/4hp, so I don’t KNOW the 1/2hp covers are identical size, but they sure look the same.
You gotta ask, though, how much more is someone willing to pay for a 1/2hp than a 1/3hp? $5 $10? $20?
I suppose if you were dedicated to deception, and parting out a non-functioning 1/2hp, you might “upgrade” a 1/3hp for the couple extra bucks, but I don’t think it could be a common opportunity, and I don’t see how it would net more than just selling it as a loose part.
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I have a 397.19590 that needs new bearings. I have determined that I need 6203 based on the size of the old ones (17x40x12).
I'm assuming there aren't any made in USA options for these bearings? I tried finding the sources on the main 3 brands I've seen in these CM block threads all to no avail. It kind of grieves me to put non US made bearings in one of the old blocks but I will deal with it. I have sent emails off asking where they are made but haven't heard back. Except NTN I see they are made in Japan (or were anyway).
All I need is the regular double sealed bearings wit no need for "precision ball bearings", "permanently lubed bearings", or "stainless bearings", correct?
Thanks
I'm assuming there aren't any made in USA options for these bearings? I tried finding the sources on the main 3 brands I've seen in these CM block threads all to no avail. It kind of grieves me to put non US made bearings in one of the old blocks but I will deal with it. I have sent emails off asking where they are made but haven't heard back. Except NTN I see they are made in Japan (or were anyway).
All I need is the regular double sealed bearings wit no need for "precision ball bearings", "permanently lubed bearings", or "stainless bearings", correct?
Thanks
redriderjr326
Member
Just finished this guy up.
I’m pretty happy with my little collection I have.
The far left is dated on the bottom 1976. Guy I got it from took out of the box and never plugged it in. Just kept moving it with him.
I’m pretty happy with my little collection I have.
The far left is dated on the bottom 1976. Guy I got it from took out of the box and never plugged it in. Just kept moving it with him.
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Looks awesome, congrats!
torqueman2002
Well-known member
Very nice family photo!
BTW - If anyone needs replacement parts for the Centrifugal Switches and Mechanisms in early Blocks and pre-Blocks, this following site might help.
http://www.torq.com/motor-and-switch-replacement-parts.html
More info. here.--> http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=82&t=201774
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JoCoSawdust
Well-known member
Just picked this up. Nothing unique about the grinder itself but it's date stamped 4 days before the day I was born so it's a nice addition.
randyandrewsberg
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2016
- Messages
- 33
Came home from an auction today with my first block grinder today. 1/2 hp, it seems complete to my untrained eye. Both tool rests, light, Shields, quench tray. Missing two rubber feet though.It also came with this wheel dresser. It sounds great, spins right up and runs so smooth, I don't believe how long I put up with my cheap Chicago electric bench grinder! Going price at the auction today, $27.50! 
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jerryd67
Active member
Technically "pre-block", but great local CL find for $25. Restore to follow.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=876794&stc=1&d=1553464248
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=876794&stc=1&d=1553464248
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cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
You Pic does not work, fyi.Technically "pre-block", but great local CL find for $25. Restore to follow.
cajunfirehawk
Well-known member
As you can see it has the more desirable eye shields on it, the "frame less" design ones seem too flimsy to me. Nice collection but if you get any more I'll say you getting addicted to these things, ask me how I know
Retroman
Well-known member
chrisnazzy
Well-known member
Umm.......BUY IT! If you don't really need both, sell the one you have that's not in as good of shape. Opportunities to buy NIB Craftsman grinders are not going to come along often, especially at that price.
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cash68
Keeper Of Rotor Hill
Here's a 1961 model I picked up a few weeks ago:
It worked great but it was a bit scuzzy/rusty, was stored in a damp basement.
Nameplate detail:
Disassemble:
Leme Smash:
Time for an (electrolysis) bath!
After bath:
The factory filled this casting void with putty years ago, electrolysis did not hurt it one bit:
Rustoleum (can!) cured by baking at 225 for a few hours, stunk pretty bad:
Insulation was bad on the stator so I spliced in new wiring and terminals, with heatshrink. Should be good for another 60 years or so.
Cleaned everything and laid it out like a giant model kit:
Partially assembled:
Fin:
Hey so, I was using this a few weeks ago and a bunch of smoke came out from the grinder body. Still works fine. ?! Any idea on what could have happened?
My guess would be that the start winding is not disengaging. Check the centrifugal switch.
BTW, that is not a Block grinder, it is a Pre-Block
McBrownie
Well-known member
Ex,
I don't see a centrifugal switch in the pictures with all of the pieces parts.
Cash,
Great restore. You might be missing an important piece on that model. Take a look at the links in post 11469 in this thread for more information.
Good luck.
Edit:
This is a better link thanks to Torqueman:
http://tinyurl.com/CM-115-19500-restore
and jump to post #36 for better pictures.
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