gman007
Well-known member
Rusty
That is for sure one super cool little vise! Amazing detailed work and great craftsmanship has gone into making this little fellow. Great find
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Rusty
That is for sure one super cool little vise! Amazing detailed work and great craftsmanship has gone into making this little fellow. Great find
Do you just buy the gallon size and pour it into a bucket full strength? How long have you soaked vises for the best results?
Shiftless
Well-known member
I use it full strength. My local Home Depot sells it in 2 1/2 gallon jugs.
Time depends on what kind of paint. 2-3 hours hot takes off almost any paint.
Your results may vary
Thank you for the kind words gents. I wasn’t the one who made it though. I hope to become good enough at machining to make something like it some day but till then this one will have to keep me company. One of my favorite details on the vise is all the small hardware to put it in perspective the bolt heads that hold it to the base are only 1/8in hex.
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Thanks Shiftless, I’ll give it a try.
I’m new, I have a new Reed 1C, and have a question.
I was looking for a vise to hold an 80% lower to build up with my 13 year old. I had looked at HF before getting excited about this one that I ran across. I paid $60 and spent the day cleaning it up. I love it!
I’ll post some pics, then ask you experts opinions.
After
I was looking for a vise to hold an 80% lower to build up with my 13 year old. I had looked at HF before getting excited about this one that I ran across. I paid $60 and spent the day cleaning it up. I love it!
I’ll post some pics, then ask you experts opinions.
After
I had a 623 1/3x at one time. I believe the X might be replaceable jaws, but I never really found out. Maybe a transition model before they all had jaw inserts?
Thanks NC Rick.
Yes, everything inside is great. It's got a smooth action opening and closing. It just binds right at the crack. I was thinking I could file a little, maybe jb weld or weld, or even wait for a parts vise but, other than the cosmetics of it, it would probably not hinder what I'll likely use it for.
Yes, everything inside is great. It's got a smooth action opening and closing. It just binds right at the crack. I was thinking I could file a little, maybe jb weld or weld, or even wait for a parts vise but, other than the cosmetics of it, it would probably not hinder what I'll likely use it for.
pchp
Member
Hi. I need your help with the identification of a vise. It's a 6-inch vise, it only has one 8-pointed star and the number 125. I did a lot of searching but I did not find anything.
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tool_scrounge
Well-known member
I traded a few items a while back with a friend and one of the included bits was a die cast zinc drill press vise with 3" jaws. Craftsman sold these as their lowest cost drill press vise as shown in the attached 1969 catalog snippet (Item 6). In today's dollars that would cost about $55.
The nice thing from a manufacturing perspective is zinc (probably Zamak 3) casts really nicely with little additional work required. Therefore the cost is low. The down side is that it is not very strong and is not very forgiving if dropped. To engineer around these issues, the manufacturer added thin steel jaw plates and attached them using steel nuts. The leadscrew and handle is also steel.
For contrast, the taper and V jaws are made from cast iron. The finish is rough, but these vises were definitely made to a price point.
When introduced in 1954 these were labeled Dunlap. They remained in catalog until 1973. I am not sure who made this vise. But Atlas was a Sears vendor. They were also keen on Zamak part castings and used it in drill press and lathe parts, especially gears.
Overall an interesting vise for light duty jobs. The extra jaws are also nice.
(Thanks to David Maher for his Craftsman catalog DVD compilation, it certainly makes researching Craftsman tools easier).
The nice thing from a manufacturing perspective is zinc (probably Zamak 3) casts really nicely with little additional work required. Therefore the cost is low. The down side is that it is not very strong and is not very forgiving if dropped. To engineer around these issues, the manufacturer added thin steel jaw plates and attached them using steel nuts. The leadscrew and handle is also steel.
For contrast, the taper and V jaws are made from cast iron. The finish is rough, but these vises were definitely made to a price point.
When introduced in 1954 these were labeled Dunlap. They remained in catalog until 1973. I am not sure who made this vise. But Atlas was a Sears vendor. They were also keen on Zamak part castings and used it in drill press and lathe parts, especially gears.
Overall an interesting vise for light duty jobs. The extra jaws are also nice.
(Thanks to David Maher for his Craftsman catalog DVD compilation, it certainly makes researching Craftsman tools easier).
Here's one for you guys.. $35 for the cabinet w/ Wilton on "Offer Up"
And I didn't get it so I don't "S..K".
Best,
Rob
And PS.. not to get off on a big tangent but the topic of evil persons "flipping" items comes up from time to time so I'll add my brief thought.. 1, most of us do it with an item/items at some point and we think it's ok when we do it under the guise of helping to support our families or our collecting habit. 2, most of us wouldn't have half of the stuff that we have if we didn't pick them up from others who found a good deal someplace and "flipped" the items. Just my 2 cents.
And I didn't get it so I don't "S..K".
Best,
Rob
And PS.. not to get off on a big tangent but the topic of evil persons "flipping" items comes up from time to time so I'll add my brief thought.. 1, most of us do it with an item/items at some point and we think it's ok when we do it under the guise of helping to support our families or our collecting habit. 2, most of us wouldn't have half of the stuff that we have if we didn't pick them up from others who found a good deal someplace and "flipped" the items. Just my 2 cents.
gman007
Well-known member
gman007
Well-known member
Sleepy
Congrats, that is an excellent find and for only $60 you did great.
Now luckily the crack at the end of slide seems to be pretty small in length. You might want to consider drilling a small hole where the crack stops to prevent the crack from growing further. If the crack was bigger there are better ways to address it, here is an example (but this might not be warranted in your case)
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358095
As for the missing pipe jaws, one of the members here KMSCOTT who is a master machinist extraordinaire makes replacement parts including jaws for high end vises such as Reed.
Keep in mind that his parts are harder and far superior to the OEM (as evident by the fact that everyone who have used them here has testified to this fact) and that a lot of work and skill goes into making such complex configurations. I just checked and he does have pipe jaws for Reed 1 C listed on his website
http://www.benchvisejaws.com/reed-1c-pipe-jaws/
Best of luck
BlueBomber
Well-known member
I finished the restoration of a Wilton 9300 for my new workbench. The details are on my building thread, but here are some pics for this thread.
Before:
After:
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Before:
After:
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gman007
Well-known member
Ststephen7
Well-known member
I finished the restoration of a Wilton 9300 for my new workbench. The details are on my building thread, but here are some pics for this thread.
Before:
After:
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Beautiful!
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Shiftless
Well-known member
There is a vise restoration tips thread that Drivesitfar started but since several of us are now interested in the Simple Green paint removal process, I thought I’d post these before and immediately after pics to show you the results.
There were 3 layers of paint. The parts went into my crock pot, I poured in the SG to the top and set the temp on High. It takes a while to reach max temp. (Just short of boiling hot ) I left it on max for 2 hours and then shut off the power and let it sit all night. If you try to take parts out while the SG is hot, you’d better wear heavy gloves. Letting it cool all night seems like the way to go. The chemicals work while you sleep.
Thank you BFBob for offering to sell me this 3 1/2 inch Cadet.
Note the Guar Exp date of March 1955 it is stamped into the slide instead of the key like on the true bullets.
There were 3 layers of paint. The parts went into my crock pot, I poured in the SG to the top and set the temp on High. It takes a while to reach max temp. (Just short of boiling hot ) I left it on max for 2 hours and then shut off the power and let it sit all night. If you try to take parts out while the SG is hot, you’d better wear heavy gloves. Letting it cool all night seems like the way to go. The chemicals work while you sleep.
Thank you BFBob for offering to sell me this 3 1/2 inch Cadet.
Note the Guar Exp date of March 1955 it is stamped into the slide instead of the key like on the true bullets.
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gman007
Well-known member
ShiftThere is a vise restoration tips thread that Drivesitfar started but since several of us are now interested in the Simple Green paint removal process, I thought I’d post these before and immediately after pics to show you the results.
There were 3 layers of paint. The parts went into my crock pot, I poured in the SG to the top and set the temp on High. It takes a while to reach max temp. (Just short of boiling hot ) I left it on max for 2 hours and then shut off the power and let it sit all night. If you try to take parts out while the SG is hot, you’d better wear heavy gloves. Letting it cool all night seems like the way to go. The chemicals work while you sleep.
Thank you BFBob for offering to sell me this 3 1/2 inch Cadet.
Note the Guar Exp date of March 1955 it is stamped into the slide instead of the key like on the true bullets.
Thanks for the great and detailed info. Now I have to find me a crackpot
(well I guess they are plenty of those around but I rather need a crock pot)Blue Bomber, your vise looks amazing. I have questions... the finish on the handle and spindle, is that just a blasted finish or did you zinc plate them?
The wood work bench looks oak, is that purchased or did you build it? I have a few maple tops, yours looks nice, also thinner slats that were glued up.
Great work!
The wood work bench looks oak, is that purchased or did you build it? I have a few maple tops, yours looks nice, also thinner slats that were glued up.
Great work!
What advantage does the simple green have over using water in the crock pot? I use to remove paint from antique door hardware using a crock pot with water. The 19th century iron or bronze hardware often had layers of nasty lead paint etc. It usually came off fairly well and I did not heat very hot. Just let it simmer for a few days...
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Shiftless
Well-known member
I was thinking the same thing. I guess it’s time for an experiment. Simmering for a few days vs. a few hours might bother some people though. If you’re in a hurry to strip off the paint so you can get some primer on, lots of guys will just walk up to their stationary grinder with the wire wheel. I like the SG method because there is no toxic dust. Our city has toxic waste drop off so the used up SG will go there. I filter and reuse several times.
txlonghorn1989
Well-known member
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What do you use to filter it Shiftless?
KMScott
Well-known member
Me Too, but without the pressure washer, just to much Winter up here in the mountains for the pressure washer. I can do a vise in a hour with most paints. Then ready for wire wheeling. I am always in a hurry.
gman007
Well-known member
I can not comment on heated SG but even when cold you just leave the painted item in SG for a couple of days and let it do the work for you. I like Evapo-Rust and electrolysis for removing rust for the same reason. They are like the fire and forget army weapons! You fire and come back sometimes later to see the results.
BlueBomber
Well-known member
Thanks, fellas! I used glass beads to blast the handle, spindle, swivel locks, and jaws. That stripped off the grunge and left a nice matte finish. I did the same to the entire vise, and then sanded the anvil and jaw sides with a 120-grit disk on an orbital sander. Then to keep the surface rust at bay, I spray everything down with some automobile wax. I'll probably need to give it all a couple of extra treatments of the same every now and then.
The workbench is oak butcherblock I made from some old fence boards my Mom wanted thrown away. I planed, split lengthwise, and then glued together four slabs, which I planed again for smoothness and then biscuit joined into the 30" by 96" work surface. After some more sanding, I treated it to a few coats of BLO. I really like the way it turned out.
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It kind of has a Scarlet Begonias hue to it.
Wow, as a life long cabinet maker I can appreciate all of the work that went into that top. You must have some pretty cool neighbors to put up with the noise that thickness planing oak slabs makes.Thanks, fellas! I used glass beads to blast the handle, spindle, swivel locks, and jaws. That stripped off the grunge and left a nice matte finish. I did the same to the entire vise, and then sanded the anvil and jaw sides with a 120-grit disk on an orbital sander. Then to keep the surface rust at bay, I spray everything down with some automobile wax. I'll probably need to give it all a couple of extra treatments if the same every now and then.
The workbench is oak butcherblock I made from some old fence boards my Mom wanted thrown away. I planed, split lengthwise, and then glued together four slabs, which I planed again for smoothness and then biscuit joined into the 30" by 96" work surface. After some more sanding, I treated it to a few coats of BLO. I really like the way it turned out.
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BlueBomber
Well-known member
Thanks, Smitty! This was my first attempt at butcherblock and having the big 12" Craftsman planer made it easy. Fortunately, I have an acre and a third, so no neighbors right on top of me to complain about noise.
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Outlawmws
Well-known member
BB that bench and vise came out nice! And great save on he oak!
Blue Bomber, thank you for sharing! I made a small one once, it was really hard to do as the ends of each slat got waves (likely from me not knowing how to run the equipment).. I am still using it 35 years later. Yours are beautiful.
You mean after running it through the planer? That's planer snipe, and you can avoid it by running a sacrificial board through before and after your "good" boards. Run all boards end to end with no gaps. First a sacrificial board, then all your real boards, then finish with another sacrificial one.
Shiftless
Well-known member
I use a common kitchen implement. No, not the one from OUR kitchen! This one I found at the recycling center.
This strainer fits into a large funnel. I pour the SG out of the crockpot back into the 2 1/2 gallon jug.
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