Show us Your Vintage Bench Grinders!!!!

[454ragtop]

^ Unfortunately that IS pretty much a HF grinder, low end Asian import with stamped tin guards. Not sure where you got 20 amps at 220 volts, it's actually 2 amps at 220. It's only 4 amps at 110, so unless you have a special reason for running it on 220, I'd run it on 110, 110 usually being more convenient. It is an older one though, so you might as well use it, what do you have to lose? If running wire wheels or buffing wheels, I'd remove the guards. Good luck.

 

[exmaxima1]

Here's mine, they both work fine, the Milwaukee doesn't get used nearly as often as the Rockwell. I don't know the dates on either but I think the Milwaukee is easily 40+ years old.

That Rockwell was made by Wissota and should run like silk. The number after "W6-**" is the manufacturer year.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

That Rockwell was made by Wissota and should run like silk. The number after "W6-**" is the manufacturer year.

It does! It's only noisy from the 2x48 belt flapping around but when I do have it off, it's extremely smooth and quite.

 

[rickhigginshtbr]

Should look cool when done, probably 70's or 80's. The switch though, is awesome, try cleaning the contacts and get it working right!

 

[cloyd]

Hey, Hey I found it!

I like the switch too! Part of it is broken and missing and I was trying to think how to repair it. The switch handle had a short tube shape to it that has broken and the switch base had a tube that slid inside the switch handle tube. I'm still pondering the problem.

cloyd

 

[AL`]

This belonged to my father. OSHA does not approve ...

 

[Mike W.]

Hey, Hey I found it!



I like the switch too! Part of it is broken and missing and I was trying to think how to repair it. The switch handle had a short tube shape to it that has broken and the switch base had a tube that slid inside the switch handle tube. I'm still pondering the problem.



cloyd

If it's plastic you try having it 3d printed

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[Ststephen7]

I bought this old Milwaukee grinder at a pawn shop. It was built in 1967. I usually like something older but the lights got my attention. They're really cool because, well for one they're so vintage, plus the lights come on automatically when the shields are lowered. The only thing is they're sooo large for this grinder. maybe I'll use them on something else.

These light fixtures and shields are the same ones that came on the huge 3 phase B&D 10" pedestal grinder I just got. I've been working on it, and was looking through this thread to see if I could find another like it before posting my progress.

 

[Mike W.]

These light fixtures and shields are the same ones that came on the huge 3 phase B&D 10" pedestal grinder I just got. I've been working on it, and was looking through this thread to see if I could find another like it before posting my progress.

Wow, thanks for the info! I knew they looked monstrous on that grinder. But they are cool looking. Actually removed one meaning to restore it but haven't yet.

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[Ststephen7]

Mine were wired to work on 220 (from the 3 phase, with no neutral), with regular 120v appliance bulbs AND with mercury switches (like yours), plus an additional (added later and unneeded) switch. I am still going back and forth... should I

A:return them to the way they were, but without the stupid additional switch, just turning on and off with the mercury switches?

B:return them to the way they were, but with the lights aways on, since the mercury switches have a VERY short range of on... they start off, then go on (tilted) and then off again after only 30 t0 40ish degrees of tilt? I don't currently have 3 phase, so I can't mess around with them to see if that is enough of a range. Or

C: change the bulbs out for (at least twice as bright) LED appliance bulbs (which I have to admit I already purchased $20 for 6)? They will NOT run on 220 wired the way it was, so this would require an additional 120 line running to the grinder. Would that be weird? Needing an additional 120 supply just for the lights?

 

[Randall3rd]

Picked up this older Delta Grinder. It looks like a Triple Duty but doesn't have the Triple Duty Label. Also - any idea if the green color is original or has been repainted? Most I see are grey.

 

[Will McRay]

Here is my restored 1950 Cincinnati M109 (12x2) pedastal grinder. Had the tag redone by Tom Utley in AZ and its awesome. This is smooth and quiet. Love it.

 

[Voi]

Here is my restored 1950 Cincinnati M109 (12x2) pedastal grinder.

Looks great. What's the color?

 

[Bigblockyeti]

WOW, that looks great!! That's back when a motor tag stated 2HP, you better believe it was at least 2HP.

 

[Ststephen7]

She's a beauty! Nice job!

 

[wrenchguy]

nice, but over restored.

 

[Will McRay]

Machinery Grey

 

[Ststephen7]

nice, but over restored.

Bah!

Mine is over restored... his is perfect.

 

[Outlawmws]

Wow, is that polished aluminum, or did you get the bells chromed?

 

[Mike W.]

Bah!



Mine is over restored... his is perfect.

I love to over-do but Wow dude your worse than me! [emoji1][emoji1]

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[Ststephen7]

Wow, is that polished aluminum, or did you get the bells chromed?

Yeah... I polished all of the aluminum castings. Wait until I add the lights in those housings!

 

[Outlawmws]

Strongly recommend LED bulbs!

 

[Username already in use]

Cross posting this from the Craftsman long C thread.

I picked up this Craftsman 1/2 H.P. grinder from the flea last weekend. It didn't work so I took a chance at $25. Dunno why, but these things are BUILT, so I had high hopes.

I get into it today and notice that the power cord is all kinds of old and crumbly. So, let's start there... Well, one replacement power cord and it was back in business. Love it when it's a simple fix!

Probably could use a repaint. The original royal blue color can still be seen under the base of the grinder.

Looks like this model was made from about 1934 through the war years. Model number 115.6332 makes this a Packard Electric Co. sourced motor.

 

[losdudes]

Cross posting this from the Craftsman long C thread.

I picked up this Craftsman 1/2 H.P. grinder from the flea last weekend. It didn't work so I took a chance at $25. Dunno why, but these things are BUILT, so I had high hopes.

I get into it today and notice that the power cord is all kinds of old and crumbly. So, let's start there... Well, one replacement power cord and it was back in business. Love it when it's a simple fix!

Probably could use a repaint. The original royal blue color can still be seen under the base of the grinder.

Looks like this model was made from about 1934 through the war years. Model number 115.6332 makes this a Packard Electric Co. sourced motor.

That's a beast for sure

 

[austin870]

That is interesting losdudes... I picked up a similar model from the same time period as your green one just 3 weeks ago. Mine has the original switch as well as the quench reservoir and light. It weighs 78lbs. I restored mine over the last couple of weeks. Mine is a model 1156842. Made in 1943/1944 for Sears by Packard Electric.

These were made before the Craftsman Mailbox which was before the really popular Block Grinder. A lot of our models went into the military during WWII. It may have something to do with the way they were so overbuilt. The Craftsman 1944 catalog has them listed as "Restricted to AA-5 priority or better".

This meant government got first dibs. Obviously this made civilian stock spotty. I have a suspicion the area on the label for "CNO" is a military designation. I cannot find any contrary information on that label marking. If anyone knows anything it would be great to know what it is.

 

[Outlawmws]

So the period correct color for those would be OD green?

 

[wrenchguy]

One of the many grays.

 

[austin870]

The period color was a dark blue body and black wheel guards and quench tray. Some models had the center band brushed metal and others painted blue. Here is a pick of what the last coat was as I stripped it. There was only the gray painted over the blue. Here are a couple pics of ones I believe to be the original blue/black color. These also had the Long C Craftsman written in big letters across the quench tank. The 1940's were the height of the Sears Catalog sales. Everything became painted to have that under a Xmas tree type look. They had become very marketing driven and had payment plans etc in the catalog.

I read the gray color on the machines through the late 40's and 50's actually came from the massive surplus of industrial gray paint left over from WWII. It was virtually free in 55gal containers etc so all the manufacturers used the gray to keep prices down. After that it became the de-facto machine color. I don't believe the color gray was ever consumer driven.

 

[wrenchguy]

yes blue is correct and the 1 got same model as urs is blue. i believe outlaw was asking IF yours or losdudes was military would it be od green.

 

[Outlawmws]

yes blue is correct and the 1 got same model as urs is blue. i believe outlaw was asking IF yours or losdudes was military would it be od green.

And sort of tongue in cheek too.

 

[austin870]

And sort of tongue in cheek too.

Ohhhh... went right by me. Nothing surprises me with paint jobs.

 

[austin870]

yes blue is correct and the 1 got same model as urs is blue. i believe outlaw was asking IF yours or losdudes was military would it be od green.

On that note though has anyone figured out what the "Type CNO" means on the grinder label? Absolutely nothing comes up in Google searches. I can't find any bench grinder or small electric motor related definition for the CNO.

 

[Outlawmws]

No help from the Catalog but I'm guessing the "C" stands for Cap start..

 

[jpickar]

No help from the Catalog but I'm guessing the "C" stands for Cap start..

The ad says "condenser start".

 

[Outlawmws]

Capacitor and condenser mean the same thing.

Those condensers inside old distributors? Capacitors...

 

[BuddyC01]

Got this at a great estate sale this weekend. The kind you have to dig for your finds.
No model number. Any B&D folks out there?
220v, it runs so sweet and runs for what seems like forever when you turn it off.
It was pretty much black when found. I think it would look great repainted

BuddyC


IMG_0261 by William Clark, on Flickr

IMG_0268 by William Clark, on Flickr

IMG_0269 by William Clark, on Flickr

 

[Outlawmws]

That's an Awesome Grinder! Some Art Deco from the period that spawned it!

 

[bmwrd0]

On the Craftsman prewar bench grinders, definitely cap start. And if I remember right, it's one of the flat types that are no longer available. The values are written on the metal inside the paper insulator/casing on them.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

I've been moving a B&D #74, type HA 8" around the shop for about three years. Been telling myself "it's on the list... maybe someday".

Is it worth it to bring back to life? 3/4hp. Looks like 115v only. It's pretty rusty and very used. Has both slides (fences??) in front of wheels. Glass is in decent shape (not pitted or cracked). Was in a boiler/pipe fitter's shop before me. Has a light on it. No idea if it's a B&D light or if it's some aftermarket add-on.

Machine itself is pretty light. Base is a different story....

I'm only asking because I have other hobbies (cars, motorcycles, woodworking, a new child...) and I've got my grandfather's hodge-podge contraption of a bench grinder that's always been enough. If the B&D is a good/decent unit I'll probably keep it "on the list" to bring back to life someday. If not I'll put it up on CL. I got it for free, someone else can have it for free.

Thanks.


Anyone know anything about these motors? I can't find anything on it online other than it's an AC condenser or heat pump company (maybe??). Vintage?? It's got shaft extensions on it. Most of you would probably think it's pretty sketchy when it gets going Push button on/off switch is cool too. No "UL"... says UND. LABS INSP. on it...

Thanks!

 

[austin870]

On the Craftsman prewar bench grinders, definitely cap start. And if I remember right, it's one of the flat types that are no longer available. The values are written on the metal inside the paper insulator/casing on them.

Thanks for the tip on the values. I looked all over for those. My capacitor is inside what looks like the cardboard inside a toilet paper roll. Same size too. I didn't have the guts to pull out that can of worms to check inside because I thought it might disintegrate in my hands or would not go back together again. I replaced all the external wiring and it works great.