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VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

Outlawmws

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Re: Simplex Swivel Lock

Hey gang For those who own a Desmond Simplex Utility Vise with swivel (350, 400, 500?), what does the swivel locking nut look like? Carriage bolt, or something fancier like a square head that hits the outer edge?

Here is a quick look at the one I got, where the PO used a hex bolt to lock it in position more or less permanently till you unmount it.

IMG_20191110_123136-X2.jpg

RTM, IIR (Sold it years ago) it is a carriage bolt. Nothing fancy.
 
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Outlawmws

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Ok I've read the first 50 or so pages and I am stuck with a few questions I cant find answers to.

I'll be soaking my Wilton in vinegar after I'm done cleaning it by hand. What's the best method to get it ready for paint after the vinegar?

Next... I want to use a rattle can to paint the vise but I'm unsure how durable regular rustoleum would be. I'm thinking a satin might work better to avoid chips but what say you?

I'll try and get through the remaining 330 pages and maybe answer these questions myself.

The key is to make sure the paint is completely cured. harder this time of year (unless you are south of the equator...)

Hammred finish (once cured) also seems to be more durable, but nothjng is completely bomb proof.
 
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drivesitfar

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35: after you completely rinse off and dry off the vinegar are you going to hit it with a wire wheel before painting or is it ready for paint now? you can put BLO on it to keep it from flash rusting or shoot on your favorite primer.

Outlaw mentioned this first to me years ago and then others have other ideas, but he said to get a good size cardboard box and use it as your paint booth and spray away. what he said about needing heat is correct so while it's got a box around it use your heat gun, hair dryer or a heat lamp and let the paint cure.

or just put on BLO (boiled linseed like I do) and a light coat or two and call it good with your naked vise. if you want to paint it in the summer when the weather is better then the BLO should have held off most of the rust over the winter.

keep reading the thread if you have time cause i've read every post and lots to learn here.

good luck!!
 

matt1027

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...

I was able to remove the broken bit with an easy-out and now need a replacement. The threads are 3/8 course and needs a large head. I'll search the bins at the local hardware unless someone knows a source for real vise bolts.

I pulled the bolt off my 4" shop king. (see photo).
Head diameter is 3/4"
Shoulder diameter is 15/32" (1/2" will probably work fine)
Shoulder length is 3/8"
Thread is 3/8-16 (3/8" UNC)
Thread length is 1/2"
Button head height is hard to measure, but as near as I can get, looks like 3/16.


If you have room to fit a 5/16" tall head you could use this bolt from McMaster:

part number 91259a705 (I tried to post a link, but was denied... not enough posts yet, sorry).

$2.39 plus shipping.

Lots of other material and shoulder length choices too, in the highly likely even that the 5" uses a bigger bolt to go with its bigger base.

Cheers!
Matt
 

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drivesitfar

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Matt: thanks for gathering and offering Damon that information.

also if you need a few posts read a few thread posts and make more good comments or just a "WELL DONE" or nice work would usually make one of us smile that we are not just talking to air some days.

cheers and welcome to our forum!!
 

RTM

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jonshonda

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Anyone know what the thread info is for the swivel bolt that holds the base to the static body of a Reed 2C is?
 

damon18

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Closest I could find locally. The shoulder is a bit too long and so is are the threads. I can grind off the extra thread length and put a washer under between the bolt and swivel base to make it work.

One thing, I'm not sure if this is supposed to snug the base to the vise or is the base still supposed to be loose after this bolt is tightened?

I may have to also grind down the head a little to keep it extending more than the base.

I had to buy five of these bolts (total $15) so if there is a better alternative I'm all ears and can still return these.87dc67e3accfc0e43ee744bec21596a3.jpg

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Outlawmws

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The shoulder should seat on the part its bolting to and have just a little clearance to the base so it can rotate but not hike/rattle. Shimming the head is fine.
 

rusty65

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Closest I could find locally. The shoulder is a bit too long and so is are the threads. I can grind off the extra thread length and put a washer under between the bolt and swivel base to make it work.

One thing, I'm not sure if this is supposed to snug the base to the vise or is the base still supposed to be loose after this bolt is tightened?

I may have to also grind down the head a little to keep it extending more than the base.

I had to buy five of these bolts (total $15) so if there is a better alternative I'm all ears and can still return these.87dc67e3accfc0e43ee744bec21596a3.jpg

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If I were you I’d return them and get a regular bolt from tractor supply and get some arbor bushings. Kind of like what I have linked. Probably could get some at harbor freight. https://www.forneyind.com/products/reducing-bushing-adapters-for-3-4-thick-bench-wheels


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Thirdyfivepickup

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35: after you completely rinse off and dry off the vinegar are you going to hit it with a wire wheel before painting or is it ready for paint now? you can put BLO on it to keep it from flash rusting or shoot on your favorite primer.

Outlaw mentioned this first to me years ago and then others have other ideas, but he said to get a good size cardboard box and use it as your paint booth and spray away. what he said about needing heat is correct so while it's got a box around it use your heat gun, hair dryer or a heat lamp and let the paint cure.

or just put on BLO (boiled linseed like I do) and a light coat or two and call it good with your naked vise. if you want to paint it in the summer when the weather is better then the BLO should have held off most of the rust over the winter.

keep reading the thread if you have time cause i've read every post and lots to learn here.

good luck!!


I won’t tackle the Wilton until Spring. Just getting my ducks in a row now.

I’ll probably do wire wheel, vinegar, rinse, wire wheel again if needed then prime prime and paint.
 

Woodreaux

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Anyone ever have trouble with the pins of a Wilton Tradesman not lining up correctly? I was going to remove the pins to take out the nut, etc, but when I punched the first pin across it didnt seem to line up with the other hole. I backed it out and started the opposite side. The picture shows that it doesn't line up straight .

I can probably get the both back to where they started, but I was hoping to clean out the grime as part of restoring the vise.

Any suggestions? 041bccd3012684586fa4663b93123cd0.jpg

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Adderall

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Anyone ever have trouble with the pins of a Wilton Tradesman not lining up correctly? I was going to remove the pins to take out the nut, etc, but when I punched the first pin across it didnt seem to line up with the other hole. I backed it out and started the opposite side. The picture shows that it doesn't line up straight .

I can probably get the both back to where they started, but I was hoping to clean out the grime as part of ...

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I just had this problem with my 9400/8400 that I'm working on. The holes were 100% off, and the pins are too big to fall free from the internal nut's channel. I was spoiled by my old 835 apparently. There's a video on youtube where a guy shows how to use the short side of an allen L wrench to punch the pins out from the inside. I used to shelf L brackets I had laying around to substitute the shims he made and used.
 

nutjob

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There's a video on youtube where a guy shows how to use the short side of an allen L wrench to punch the pins out from the inside. .

The pins are tapered and as you found out are too long anyway to drive in. Hopefully you did not crack the vise tail. The pins need to be driven out from the inside. The last Wilton I did after I got one pin out I was able to use a long pin punch to drive the other one out even though the holes did not align perfectly.

Also, once I got the pin out about half way I used a center punch to mark the "up" position of the pin and put each one in a bag labeled left and right. The head of the pin was ground flush with the side of the vise during manufacture and you want to drive them back in the same orientation so you do not need to do any grinding to the pin or vise.

Kevin
 
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Woodreaux

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The pins are tapered and as you found out are too long anyway to drive in. Hopefully you did not crack the vise tail. The pins need to be driven out from the inside. The last Wilton I did after I got one pin out I was able to use a long pin punch to drive the other one out even though the holes did not align perfectly.

Also, once I got the pin out about half way I used a center punch to mark the "up" position of the pin and put each one in a bad labeled left and right. The head of the pin was ground flush with the side of the vise during manufacture and you want to drive them back in the same orientation so you do not need to do any grinding to the pin or vise.

Kevin
The video I watched showed the pins punching straight across, which is why I tried to do the same.

Seems like a design flaw when users are having to share workarounds like that, but I certainly appreciate you both helping me out. I'm going to look for that video.

Did Wilton make a tool for extruding those pins, or did they expect guys to rig something with Allen wrenches and shelf brackets?




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nutjob

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I'm going to look for that video.

Here is the video I found that explains this.

I have had to use 3-4 different makes/brands of Allen wrench to find one just the right size and degree of hardness. Some would bend, some would break/shatter and some would work perfect.

I have no idea how Wilton would deal with this if a vise came back for repair.

Kevin
 
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drivesitfar

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Woodreaux: nice work on the old Parker. some of the guys would weld that fix where you've got some missing cast and others without welding skills might use JB WELD or DEVCON especially since you painted your vise. it looks great from my chair and your call on how you want to repair it or leave it as is.

ALL: as far as the PITA pins on Wilton Bullet vises some are single pins and some are double pins and i've seen more than a few broken cast where the pins were cause the person trying to remove the pins was a bit too aggressive.

there are several posts earlier in this thread where several members removed the old pins and put in new pins that were screws with the threads ground off at their ends. they'd tap threads into the vise's body so the next time they wanted to clean their vise it would be about 30 seconds to take 2 screws out and i think an allen wrench was the tool used most for that type of screw.

if one of those members could maybe post up a few more pictures or the number of the post they already did and maybe say how hard or easy it was to do even better.

good luck
 

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Woodreaux

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Woodreaux: nice work on the old Parker. some of the guys would weld that fix where you've got some missing cast and others without welding skills might use JB WELD or DEVCON especially since you painted your vise. it looks great from my chair and your call on how you want to repair it or leave it as is.



ALL: as far as the PITA pins on Wilton Bullet vises some are single pins and some are double pins and i've seen more than a few broken cast where the pins were cause the person trying to remove the pins was a bit too aggressive.



there are several posts earlier in this thread where several members removed the old pins and put in new pins that were screws with the threads ground off at their ends. they'd tap threads into the vise's body so the next time they wanted to clean their vise it would be about 30 seconds to take 2 screws out and i think an allen wrench was the tool used most for that type of screw.



if one of those members could maybe post up a few more pictures or the number of the post they already did and maybe say how hard or easy it was to do even better.



good luck
Thanks.

Any posts or directions would be great. Thanks to all in advance

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drivesitfar

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ALL: since I remembered a few members names that did this upgrade to their wilton bullet vises check out post #944 to see A E Numan's.

VOI (GJ Member's name) also did this fix and I think a few other members did too so hope all of you that own a Wilton bullet and plan to own it and clean it for years to come might like this upgrade.

good luck!!!
 

Woodreaux

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Here is the video I found that explains this.

I have had to use 3-4 different makes/brands of Allen wrench to find one just the right size and degree of hardness. Some would bend, some would break/shatter and some would work perfect.

I have no idea how Wilton would deal with this if a vise came back for repair.

Kevin
The Allen wrench trick worked like a charm. I went ahead and took them all the way out, but on a 1765, the nut is only held in by the last 1/4" or so of the pin. So you could just back it out part way until the nut frees up.

Thanks nutjob and drivesitfar for pointing me in the right direction.

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nutjob

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The Allen wrench trick worked like a charm. /QUOTE]

Glad to hear success!

A lot of folks question the wisdom of removing the pins to further disassemble the vise and feel that it can be cleaned up just fine with the nut in place. I do agree a bit but the last 3 Wiltons I have done I found surface rust on the nut and surface rust on the end piece and where this sits in the vise body. I like to clean all these surfaces and than prime them. Than assemble the parts back together, install the end cap and than paint color.

Kevin
 
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drivesitfar

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NUT: thanks for posting up the YouTube video of how to remove the double pins in a wilton bullet vise. looks easy enough that is for certain.

even though that looks easy i still like the upgrade that members did to turn that bin into a threaded screw/pin for removal and cleaning later.

PB: is that a Simplex/Desmond Stephens vise? I don't think I have one of the little ones left and i can't say i ever turned it over but that is a nice looking piece to hold the bolt in place.

ALL: anybody have a favorite method for drying BLO on their metal and wood items in a cold garage please post them up. I know some have even bought new smokers just for cooking their vises, but they say it smells. heat gun, heat lamp and maybe putting the vise or tool inside a box to heat up a smaller area or do tell? or do you just wipe it on and leave it alone for a week or two or ??

hope you are all having a fun weekend.
 

RTM

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I have been using a pair of 500w halogens, and a Porter Cable 1500w gun to warm mine up post SG bath, and while applying the oil, and drying after. Got some pieces 20-60 degrees warmer than the 60 ambient outside. Did not leave it cooking without being nearby, so no overnight stuff.
 

Woodreaux

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The Allen wrench trick worked like a charm. /QUOTE]



Glad to hear success!



A lot of folks question the wisdom of removing the pins to further disassemble the vise and feel that it can be cleaned up just fine with the nut in place. I do agree a bit but the last 3 Wiltons I have done I found surface rust on the nut and surface rust on the end piece and where this sits in the vise body. I like to clean all these surfaces and than prime them. Than assemble the parts back together, install the end cap and than paint color.



Kevin
Got it apart, painted, lubed, and back together. Going to let the paint sit for a couple of days. Before completely putting it back together. I also need to straighten the swivel handles and replace a screw or two.

Before and after...14f1c43224408231c667c21d6b165a8f.jpg5903af19a1289e32df3ed0bdf5a2c9be.jpg

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beltdrive

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I need help with a 2" wilton baby bullet. The main screw gets loose from the spindle. At its end, it is a little sheared (this is the end that is 'notched' to fit around the handle. How would one fix this? see pic.
 

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KMScott

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beltdrive;8 187471 said:
I need help with a 2" wilton baby bullet. The main screw gets loose from the spindle. At its end, it is a little sheared (this is the end that is 'notched' to fit around the handle. How would one fix this? see pic.

Sorry I could not help you beltdrive. But I am happy to add a drawing and give my opinion on the repair.

For the repair I would drive out the .140 dia pin and drill out the broken piece that is stuck in the handle body, then clean up the spindle end, re install and drill and ream a new hole in the spindle on location using the handle body as a guide. Reinstall the 9/64th pin then you would be good to go. You would loose some thread length. Wilton baby spindles are pinned in the 3/8:10 acme threaded shaft.
 

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beltdrive

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There was never any pin in this one...probably made in the late 40s early 50s (with chicago lettering). The U in end of the bar actually presses up against the handle inside the handle body....I guess that acts as the pin, holding the bar in place.
 

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ClappedOutBport

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Interesting. So it was a press fit with the notch providing rotation. Well that's low quality. Drilling and pinning or getting a machinist to make a solid one would both work.
 

454ragtop

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I need help with a 2" wilton baby bullet. The main screw gets loose from the spindle. At its end, it is a little sheared (this is the end that is 'notched' to fit around the handle. How would one fix this? see pic.

Since it's a low stress baby bullet, could it be silver soldered?
 

RTM

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Rehabbed my Reed 203-1/2

Couple of years back, I bought a Reed 203-1/2 vise (swivel base, 3-1/2" jaws, 38#) for cheap, relatively clean by Coastside standards, very little rust. I thought it was ready to use as it worked ok after giving it a bit of lube. Mounted it to an existing cabinet, with an extra layer of 3/4" plywood under the top for added strength. Didn't use or abuse it much, cutting metal shapes, PVC pipe etc, no real stress on the vise.

But, it seemed like every time I wanted to use it for a large opening job, the mechanism was sticky, so I'd put a drop or two of oil on it, in a couple of spots, and it would be fine, until the next job. I had joined Garage Journal a while back, and took advantage of the accumulated expertise. Took the vise apart, but had to wait for a Drag Link Socket to get the swivel apart, probably the toughest part of the job. While the outside of the vise looked reasonably clean and happy, the inside was gross. I think the previous owner lubed it regularly while it was in use, but never cleaned out the accumulated crud beforehand. After I took the slide out and exposed the screw, I was using a cold chisel to scrape goo off that had the consistency of soft asphalt, or old roofing tar. Similarly with the swivel and the main nut, lots of dried grossness.

Once it was all apart, I soaked it in Simple Green, piece by piece, until everything was reasonably clean. The black paint had bits of red under it, and a more uniform coat of grey paint under that, guessing the original color. Couple of pieces got an initial soak to clean up the gross underside, and subsequent soaks of the whole piece weren't enough to remove the ring where the air liquid interface was. Kinda bummed about that, as I didn't plan on repainting it, but simply giving it a quick coat of Boiled Linseed Oil.

The back end of the slide had been hammered on at various times in its previous life, so I took a few passes with a couple of different files to even out the dings, remove some sharp edges, etc., but I didn't try to take it back to new smoothness. It has a production date of 157 (older than me), stamped on both jaws, and an E and L stamped into the fixed and moving jaws respectively, but no idea what they mean.

The main handle was bent into a shallow S, the swivel into an old style J. Got them both straight enough, but not quite perfect.

The whole thing, except for mating surfaces (where the jaw slides, or the swivel pivots), all got BLO, even the innards, to prevent rust in my oh so dry environment. I used a pair of 500W halogen lamps, and a portable hot air source to warm things up post SG bath, and pre- and post-BLO application to try to speed the drying process.

Things I learned from this thread included removing the retaining collar for the main screw with a small punch, using Simple Green as a paint remover, types of grease to use, how to safely straighten handles, and other fun goodies. Also that my existing little Craftsman 4" vise is a joke, but I suspected that already.

Here is a before pic
IMAG1731-X2.jpg


And here is an after, not much visible difference. But it works with one finger through the whole 6" + opening, both opening and closing. The dynamic jaw wiggles a bit over the throw, but not too bad.
IMG_20191121_205835-X2.jpg


The biggest disappointment (bigger than the bathtub ring) is the finish on the main screw handle, and the swivel lock system. I suspect they may have been chromed at some time in their life, but the resulting surface after cleaning was disappointing. I tried various Dremel wire wheels, which resulted in minimal improvement, as did Simichrome. I may try cold gun bluing later if it still bugs me.

For those who want the details on all the grossness that was cleaned out, check out the interim pix.
https://kirkhmb.smugmug.com/Mechanic-Tools/Reed-2035-Vise-Rehab/i-gsfqbzh

Total time for this project, under 2 months. Total working hours? Let's not talk about that in polite company please. Thanks for all the help on this.
 
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bareass172

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Hello all, it's been awhile since I've had time to be involved on here, but the passion for this stuff does continue.

I apologize, I posted this same question here:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=436746
But it was suggested I copy it here also. Admins, please delete as you see fit.

I have a question if anyone has dealt with this before. I'm restoring a handful of small projects, amongst them is this little Stanley vise. There is a spring retainer clip holding the main screw in place and taking out slop. I cannot figure out how to remove this clip so I can disassemble the vise entirely.

If the pics aren't clear enough, it is slotted almost like a figure 8 for the bottom post and the screw. It is retained under the screw. There is no wiggle room to work it from under the screw and the clip is not slotted to open...

Any suggestions are appreciated!
 

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drivesitfar

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BA: i'm curious too so hopefully somebody will know how to remove that clip or piece that is holding your screw in.

RTM: your Reed looks great. if wire wheeling won't clean up your swivel's nut or lever i'm wondering if using the stone side of the grinder might work if you can put it on the stone with some control?

dremel with sandpaper attachment or maybe just emery cloth?

one of the common success or process in getting steel/cast iron to a mirror finish is using different grades of sandpaper so maybe you can figure out how to attach your piece to a drill press or just a drill's chuck while you hold the sandpaper. or use a lathe to hold it while you use sandpaper if you own or have access to one?
 
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Productbob

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bare - just a complete stab in the dark here: can you remove the top and bottom solid guides (not sure if they screwed or pressed in) which would let the clip move up and maybe the hole for the bottom guide is large enough to then slide over the screw?
 

AmptGuy

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In my converted garage in Ampthill, UK
35: after you completely rinse off and dry off the vinegar are you going to hit it with a wire wheel before painting or is it ready for paint now? you can put BLO on it to keep it from flash rusting or shoot on your favorite primer.

Outlaw mentioned this first to me years ago and then others have other ideas, but he said to get a good size cardboard box and use it as your paint booth and spray away. what he said about needing heat is correct so while it's got a box around it use your heat gun, hair dryer or a heat lamp and let the paint cure.

or just put on BLO (boiled linseed like I do) and a light coat or two and call it good with your naked vise. if you want to paint it in the summer when the weather is better then the BLO should have held off most of the rust over the winter.

keep reading the thread if you have time cause i've read every post and lots to learn here.

good luck!!

Can you paint directly on top of the BLO or must that be stripped? I'll be begining a vice project soon, but it's winter in the UK and both primer and paint will have difficulty drying. I'd BLO it now if I thought I could paint it later.

thanks :)
 
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