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PaulRex

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Joined
Aug 23, 2018
Messages
10
Location
Sacramento
I'm in the home stretch of cleaning up a an atlas 64 bench top drill press that I have combined with the post and base of a floor model atlas 1060. I kept forgetting to take pictures throughout the process but the route I went was a soft restoration, cleaning and rust removal, without re painting. The 64 was in good shape to begin with but the incomplete 1060 I bought for parts was rougher so I painted the base and table I took from it black. I'm curious if anybody has any suggestions for a good oil for it. The original instructions suggest sae 20 machine oil, but I'm not sure what that is today. Other sources suggest a medium hydraulic oil. What do you guys use for your old drill presses?
 

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Outlawmws

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Aug 9, 2011
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39,195
Location
The Badlands
If you are staying traditional, you want something that will stay better than most oils so if you don't have some variety of machinist's Way oil, maybe chain saw bar oil?

To arrest rust many if not most are using a good paste wax to seal and not collect as much gunk as oils do.
 
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PaulRex

Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2018
Messages
10
Location
Sacramento
Two for bar oil, I'll give it a shot.
Thanks. Didn't know what Way oil was, looked it up and learned something today, thanks for that.
 

rpol7966

Member
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
10
Location
Central Il
Here are some pictures of my Electro-Mechano 601-j drill press. I think it's a pretty good find.
 

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dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
Messages
6,467
Location
Dorset. England.
I have seen those sell for $500 at auctions. It takes some big equipment to move them.

Radial arm drills often sell very cheap as they are just to big and heavy for most home users to deal with, I have seen them go for scrap price. Even a small one, say a 3' arm would be to big for me to consider having, then do you really have the work for such a machine.
 

Outlawmws

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Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,195
Location
The Badlands
Here are some pictures of my Electro-Mechano 601-j drill press. I think it's a pretty good find.

I have that thing's infant son. A precision drill; Model 101W 1000-10K rpm, Chuck is 0-5/32, The motor shaft IS the spindle, and the entire motor moves up and down. I think I posted it in here recently. Motor is of course variable speed AC/DC.
 

454ragtop

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Mar 24, 2008
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5,011
Location
Carver, MA
Outlaw, I have one of those as well, think top speed is 15K :eyecrazy: thought I had some pics but I can't seem to find them at the moment.
 
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dutchgray

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Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
6,467
Location
Dorset. England.
Picked up this Fredrick Pollard 4 spindle today
View media item 98930It needs a lot of work, mostly cleaning, re wiring and the previous bodges fixing and the seller said only the two manual spindles are working, not the auto feed with reversing gear spindles but it was £275 ($360) and local and easy to get so had to have it.
 

tombell572

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Joined
Oct 3, 2015
Messages
1,034
Location
Sea Cliff, NY & Portland, OR
Gang drills were once common in virtually every production shop but have sadly joined the ranks of shapers and horizontal mills having an ever decreasing popularity in the commercial world. Nice to see one that has a bright future. Still a handy tool if you have to make multiples of anything requiring drilling, tapping and other tasks requiring a vertical spindle.

Tom B.
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
Messages
6,467
Location
Dorset. England.
Still plenty handy for one off work, not as good as a normal pillar drill with a more adjustable table but the table is rise and fall, I can get 30" between table and the spindle nose on it.
Virtually every factory tooling auction you see here in the UK includes a Pollard or Herbert multi spindle, there is still a lot of them around.

Its pretty well specified, drills to centre of 15" circle, 1" rated in steel, 1 1/2 hp motors, with 9 speed gearboxes giving 102 to 1426 rpm range, 5" spindle travel, the sliding head for the spindle has 9" of adjustment, No3 morse tapers, the power feed heads have 3 feed rates and electrical reversing for tapping. Stands 94" tall and weighs about 1 1/3 tons, the crow bar on the table is a 3' one for reference.
 

dutchgray

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Sep 28, 2014
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6,467
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Dorset. England.
You must have a huge shop to fit a machine of that size Dutch. Cool find though.

I don't have a workshop at all, just a single garage at home, but I have 230 sq foot of space in the corner of a barn owned by an ex farmer and now industrial building owner that I have done building work for the last 15 years on and off, we have an outside area on the site that we store our construction machinery and equipment, scaffolds, 2 20' shipping containers on. The space in the barn Is currently partially open but I have been told I can now wall it off for security and to keep the dirt out, so I am going to make it a dedicated metal working/ fabrication space. Will get a lathe, probably a decent 5" by 24" sized machine and a milling machine, Bridgeport knee mill or similar clone, I have a power hacksaw to go in there and a pedestal grinder. There is already a decent metal constructed workbench and a large flypress. That is about all that will fit so there will be a lot of stuff I couldn't have, no sheet metal forming machinery etc as that stuff takes up too much space.
I am really lucky to have such a space that I can use without having to own it, space is expensive where I live. Plus its got plenty of proper 440V three phase power to the building.
 

Peoria Murph

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Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
3
Location
Central IL
Hi everyone,
I'm Murph, probably the newest member as of this writing. I'm now the caretaker of my grandfather's old drill press. He was an electrician and this was in his shop for years. Eventually it made its way into my dad's business. I happened to stop by his shop after the new owners took over and recognized the old press laying on its side on a scrap pile. I asked if I could have it, and into my car it went. They said it was junk and never worked right.

Since then I've set it up in my modest little shop. With help from sites like this and my own limited knowledge, I've managed to make everything move again and have done my best to preserve this little bit of family and mechanical history.

What I've been able to learn is that this is likely a 1942 Craftsman Atlas Drill Press. I'm open to corrections if I'm incorrect.

I've tried my best to research this on my own over the years using sites like this one, but I'm stuck and frustrated. At some point the quill return spring broke, and I'd like to replace it. The best I've been able to do is measure the existing spring and hope that somehow that's known as a very common "Type A Universal Replacement Spring" (which isn't very likely,) or that someone here with much more knowledge than I would know how to translate my attempts at photographing the measured spring and point me in the right direction, both in part purchase and mentoring to replace the spring.

In the measurement photos, the small bit is the piece that broke off which would go into a slot on the quill shaft.

Thanks for being here and I look forward to learning from the masters!

Murph in Peoria
 

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JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
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Location
Eastern NC
Welcome to the sickness Murph. I'm far from a "master" when it comes to the old DPs but I am a dedicated Craftsman nut and recently got bitten by the DP bug and now have 6 prewar Craftsman presses in my shop. My goal is to have one each of the pre-war Craftsman DPs. I'll weigh in on this best I can.

Your press was definitely made by Atlas. If the machine tag is still on there the model number should start with 101. I've attached a catalog clip from 1941 as it's the closest artist's depiction I can find to that press. The drawing is missing the flat oval spot on the front of the pulley cover but I think that's a shortcoming of the drawing. I've seen your press with the oval "Long C" logo plate there on that flat spot on several presses. A more common pulley cover found on the old Atlas models had "Craftsman" forged into the front of the cover.

What throws me on your press is the "Heritage" logo on the side. That logo wasn't used until after the war in 1945. During the war there were purchasing restrictions on power tools so there weren't many (if any) sold to anyone not involved in the war effort. The catalogs I have access to for 45 and 46 don't depict any DPs. There's a few depicted in the 47 catalog but they're King Seeley made models. The first "full" tool catalog after the war came out in 48, by then the King Seely 103 models had pushed out the Atlas presses.

Your press is the third I've seen with the Heritage logo on the side. My guess (and that's all it is, a guess), is that your press was manufactured prior to the war, but not sold (or even released to Sears). Following the war they had a stock of those presses, slapped the "new" Heritage logo on it and shipped them to Sears. Again, just speculation on my part to explain old press/new logo. Your press may have appeared in tool circulars or regional catalogs that I don't have or they may have only been sold in retail stores.

Re: the return spring. I've not had to deal with this so far but I will on one of the presses in my que. I read of a technique on the Vintage Woodworking site of stabbing that broken end through a raw potato (to use as a heat sink), heating the broken end and bending it to form the 90 degree bend required to go into the appropriate slot. I've not tried that but more than one contributor over there swears that's the way to go. If it works it'd beat hunting down another spring.

One question for you. Is your press gray? I can't really tell with the lighting in your pics. If gray, does it appear to be original or a user re-paint? From what I'm seeing as I scoop these presses up, Sears did away with the pre-war blue and went to Nazi-stomper gray during the war.

Keep us posted. I happy to hear you're saving a family heirloom!

Screen Shot 2019-12-29 at 11.27.06 PM.jpg
 

lafester

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Mar 1, 2017
Messages
2,191
Location
Northern CO
I just did that with my powermatic return spring. Just heat the end until glowing and bend it over. Allow it to cool completely and install.

Atlas presses are common enough that ebay usually has a couple return springs on hand if you want to go that route.
 

Jim Pelosi

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Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
79
Here's my old gal. I love this press.

<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/vzvOw1A"><a href="//imgur.com/a/vzvOw1A">My restored Craftsman drill press</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Jim Pelosi

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Nov 30, 2015
Messages
79
That's better

<blockquote class="imgur-embed-pub" lang="en" data-id="a/vzvOw1A"><a href="//imgur.com/a/vzvOw1A">My restored Craftsman drill press</a></blockquote><script async src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 

bmw57isetta

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Joined
Apr 27, 2010
Messages
268
Location
Austin, Texas
I agree with JoCo about these drill presses not being released to Sears. If you check out the wartime Craftsman catalogs (www.owwm.org) you'll see where the lion's share of tools require a government registered number to show you were involved in the war effort before they would sell you one. Or in another words, they weren't for sale to the general public.

Definitely an Atlas-made DP but that's a one-of-a-kind spindle guard. It looks like it was designed for a Dunlap badge rather than Craftsman. This may have been made from parts on hand at the time.

As far as the quill spring goes, go to eBay and search on "quill spring". There are multiple sources for them and they're pretty fairly priced for the most part.

Cool drill press! Keep us posted on your progress.
 

JoCoSawdust

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Joined
Nov 19, 2018
Messages
2,416
Location
Eastern NC
I agree that pulley cover had a Dunlap flavor to it but not quite. I've seen several presses with that type of cover since I've been bit by the pre-war DP bug but unfortunately they've all been outside my reasonable hunting grounds. I've seen a few with the metal "Long C" Craftsman badge riveted to that flat spot at the front. Here's the only Dunlap cover I have. Bought the press dirt cheap just to get the oft-missing spindle cap.

IMG_6627.jpg
 

Peoria Murph

New member
Joined
Dec 29, 2019
Messages
3
Location
Central IL
During the war there were purchasing restrictions on power tools so there weren't many (if any) sold to anyone not involved in the war effort.

Thank you all for the warm welcome and interesting theories about this machine. I'm going to check out those links you all shared and see what I can see!

Of course I have no way of really knowing since grandpa died in 1982 and all records of the business are likely long gone... but it is possible that this is one of the special-issue tools you speak of.

Grandpa was an electrician in Chicago and owned his own shop. According to my mother, he did not have to go to war as he was seen as essential to the community. I seem to remember he was able to buy gas at any time too, not just on his assigned day.

Re: the return spring. I read of a technique on the Vintage Woodworking site of stabbing that broken end through a raw potato (to use as a heat sink), heating the broken end and bending it to form the 90 degree bend required to go into the appropriate slot.

I think I found the thread you're discussing (I don't have enough points to post the link here) I admit that I was sort of tilting my head at the potato method wondering if you were sending the new guy for a left-handed smokebender!

I'm going to have to give this a try, although I admit I'm a bit squeamish about removing the tightly coiled spring from that little holder...
 

JoCoSawdust

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Nov 19, 2018
Messages
2,416
Location
Eastern NC
Ha! Yeah I can see how you might think that but I'm not sending you off for canopy lights or grid squares! Like I said, I haven't tried that myself but it does make sense to me.

I do recommend wearing gloves when you take that spring out. I'm sure there's an "easy" way to do it but the first time I took one of those springs out of the housing I took a good chunk of flesh out of my thumb. Putting it back in is easy, just secure the tab in the housing and wind it up like a watch.

Sure would be interesting to be able to sit and bend your Grandpa's ear for a bit about the old days....
 

bubinga

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Jul 26, 2014
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12,744
Location
Bridgeport Ohio. (Across River From Wheeling WV)
Here's my old gal. I love this press.

<iframe allowfullscreen="true" mozallowfullscreen="true" webkitallowfullscreen="true" style="height: 500px; width: 524px; margin: 10px 0px; padding: 0px;" class="imgur-embed-iframe-pub imgur-embed-iframe-pub-a-vzvOw1A-true-524" scrolling="no" src="https://imgur.com/a/vzvOw1A/embed?pub=true&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.garagejournal.com%2Fforum%2Fnewreply.php%3Fdo%3Dnewreply%26p%3D8264023&w=524" id="imgur-embed-iframe-pub-a-vzvOw1A"></iframe><script async="" src="//s.imgur.com/min/embed.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Very Nice!!
 

Peoria Murph

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Dec 29, 2019
Messages
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Location
Central IL
Putting it back in is easy, just secure the tab in the housing and wind it up like a watch.

Sure would be interesting to be able to sit and bend your Grandpa's ear for a bit about the old days....

That method DOES sound incredibly easy -- somehow I thought I'd be coiling it ... like doing the outer ring and pushing it in somehow. Not sure why I didn't think of your way.

I wish he was still around for those stories. He died when I was about 10 and he never really did talk about the past for some reason. Very few stories about growing up on the farm or anything that I remember.

So here's something interesting I learned about this drill press. I decided to poke around on it last night and somehow had never cleaned off all this compressed grime on the base. Lots of metal shavings and sawdust and whatever else had made a little cocoon and covered up this bit of information that I never saw before:
 

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