The Everything 3D Printer Thread

[BoilermakerFan]

Sounds like it's twisted. Looking down on plate, it would have rotated a degree or so, so that the plug that is sensed is to far off spec to be compensated. I did the same thing with a bed heater cover. Needed to loosen rails and realign it.

I've checked everything... It's measuring square...

I'm going to readjust everything and try one more time, but...

I ordered the BTT002 controller with TMC2209 drivers, a couple extra drivers, and a 24V heatbed from Biqu.

Today I ordered the Bear Full Upgrade with custom printed parts from RatRig in the UK. It was cheaper to buy the kit from them, have them print the parts, and ship it to me from the UK than to order the kit from ALL3D Makers and order the printed parts off Ali or eBay... Plus I get the custom purple and the rest of the filament on the spool. I did order the Z axis tall kit and X/Extruder hardware kit from ALL3D.


So my plan is to assemble the Bear Upgrade stock and use my current X-axis/extruder setup. Switch over to the BTT002 board and see if I can get it running correctly again. Assuming that works, which it should, I will print the Bear x-axis parts and perform that small upgrade.

Then later I will order all the new axis/extruder motors to move to the 320mm Z height and upgrade to 24V. Final phase is to move to a SKR v1.4 Turbo board, BL Touch, and either a Duet3D display or the TFT35 touch screen.

The only thing I still need to order right now are new LMUU8 bearings. I will order all new rods when I order the new 320mm steppers.

Oh, also picking up the E3D thermistor and heater that have the detachable leads.

 

[Gator-J]

I've checked everything... It's measuring square...

I'm going to readjust everything and try one more time, but...

I ordered the BTT002 controller with TMC2209 drivers, a couple extra drivers, and a 24V heatbed from Biqu.

Today I ordered the Bear Full Upgrade with custom printed parts from RatRig in the UK. It was cheaper to buy the kit from them, have them print the parts, and ship it to me from the UK than to order the kit from ALL3D Makers and order the printed parts off Ali or eBay... Plus I get the custom purple and the rest of the filament on the spool. I did order the Z axis tall kit and X/Extruder hardware kit from ALL3D.


So my plan is to assemble the Bear Upgrade stock and use my current X-axis/extruder setup. Switch over to the BTT002 board and see if I can get it running correctly again. Assuming that works, which it should, I will print the Bear x-axis parts and perform that small upgrade.

Then later I will order all the new axis/extruder motors to move to the 320mm Z height and upgrade to 24V. Final phase is to move to a SKR v1.4 Turbo board, BL Touch, and either a Duet3D display or the TFT35 touch screen.

The only thing I still need to order right now are new LMUU8 bearings. I will order all new rods when I order the new 320mm steppers.

Oh, also picking up the E3D thermistor and heater that have the detachable leads.

So, as someone that kinda follows this thread, how much of your original machine will you have after this upgrade?

 

[BoilermakerFan]

Hmmm... my original machine was a Mk2 that I just upgraded to a Mk2.5S.

I'm buying hardware to eventually have a complete, stand alone 32-bit i3 320mm Bear/Zaribo. The original Mk2.5S will be reassembled from the parts I pulled during the upgrade process. That will be all Prusa except the BTT002. That Mk2.5S will be sold to a friend or donated to my wife's school. I'll keep the Bearibo 320mm.

A round about answer, but it comes back nearly full circle.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

I don't know if you guys play the currency game or follow the US Dollar, but the dollar is really strong right now vs. Euros. I saved at least $20 ordering from the UK vs US including the extra shipping cost.

 

[bmxdad]

I don't know if you guys play the currency game or follow the US Dollar, but the dollar is really strong right now vs. Euros. I saved at least $20 ordering from the UK vs US including the extra shipping cost.

I looked and couldn't find the TALL kit. I have a MK2 mmu and would like a little more Z.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

I looked and couldn't find the TALL kit. I have a MK2 mmu and would like a little more Z.

No tall kit from them. I ordered the Tall upgrade from All3D for $20. Plus their hardware kit.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

My Rat Rig Bear Upgrade and printed parts arrived today.

I love the Galaxy Violet color.

 

[Cruzan80]

So by talking with people on the Prusa forum, I essentially have something akin to a mk2-ish, with some upgrades. However, the frame needs to be completely rebuilt. Looking at getting pre-cut 20/20 extrusion and priming other parts myself. Anyone have an opinion on which 20/20 upgrade they like? Bear, Haribo, etc? I will be buying all of it piecemeal, instead of as a kit.

Anyone have a recommendation on a good heated bed to replace the POS that I have on it?

Sent from my Phone 2 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[BoilermakerFan]

The Bear Upgrade is 2040. The Haribo and Zaribo use 3030.

The Bear Upgrade instructions show the lengths you need of the 2040 extrusion and you can total up all the braces, plates, fasteners, and t-nuts through the instructions as well.

I'm impressed with the Bear Upgrade so far. The T-nuts are just the cheap stamped steel ones, but I haven't felt the need to replace any of them with better ones.

My printed parts are in PLA and they are stiffer than PETG. I'm actually glad I went with the PLA instead of the PETG I originally ordered. Rat Rig had the violet parts already printed in PLA so they sent me a full spool of the PETG. The only parts that need to be in PETG are the extruder carriage parts. And I'm keeping those black.

Note, since you do not have a MK3, a few of the parts you need to print are different in order to allow the use of the limit switches. The files you will need are on the GitHub pages for either the Bear or Zaribo so just make sure you print the correct ones.

You can also find the improved control board case and door on Prusa's site.

My Y-axis motor mount is for a MK3 so I have to rig up the Y-axis limit switch until my new control board arrives. It's still taking a scenic tour of China. It's been shipped for over 2 weeks.

I'm to the point in my build that I need to tear down my MK2.5S all the way down. Kind of a PITA since I just spent the time to do the first upgrade... oh well.

I ordered a new MK52 24V heated bed from Biqu with my controller. When I get it, I'll let you know how it compares to the genuine Prusa. Zaribo also sells the Mk52 beds in 12V and 24V. You'll need a 12V version.

 

[850xpeps]

So I’m looking at 3D printers and would like a little help/advice.

Toss up between ender 5pro, prusa mk3 , cr10s, and artillery x1. If you guys don’t mind giving your opinions on them, I’d appreciate it.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I cannot compare one to the other.

I bought an Ender 5 last summer and it was very easy to assemble, level and use. I wanted a point and shoot printer as I have plenty of other irons in the fire to keep my mind busy. So far it hasn't given me any issues.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

So I’m looking at 3D printers and would like a little help/advice.

Toss up between ender 5pro, prusa mk3 , cr10s, and artillery x1. If you guys don’t mind giving your opinions on them, I’d appreciate it.

You're kind of all over the place price and build volume wise...

IMO, the X1 isn't even in the same league as the others so i wouldn't even consider it unless I was shopping for a parts donor to essentially gut and upgrade to get rid of the ribbon cable

The Prusa MK3 is the most expensive with the smallest build volume. For that trade off you get incredible support and generally, a supported upgrade path as they introduce new tech to the printer. But I'm still not sure I could strongly recommend it over either Creality.

So to me your choice boils down to the Ender5 Pro and the CR10 V2, not the CR10S. Both have a ton of upgrades and mods available to print or buy. The Ender5 is a CoreXY machine so it could possibly be a little more tricky to trouble shoot later if you start to have an issue.

 

[850xpeps]

You're kind of all over the place price and build volume wise...



IMO, the X1 isn't even in the same league as the others so i wouldn't even consider it unless I was shopping for a parts donor to essentially gut and upgrade to get rid of the ribbon cable



The Prusa MK3 is the most expensive with the smallest build volume. For that trade off you get incredible support and generally, a supported upgrade path as they introduce new tech to the printer. But I'm still not sure I could strongly recommend it over either Creality.



So to me your choice boils down to the Ender5 Pro and the CR10 V2, not the CR10S. Both have a ton of upgrades and mods available to print or buy. The Ender5 is a CoreXY machine so it could possibly be a little more tricky to trouble shoot later if you start to have an issue.

Ya I understand they are hard to compare. Maybe the mk3 and ender5 a little closer to size.

So can you fill me in on what a corexy machine is? I know the cr10 is a bit more money but also a larger ability for print size. I’m just a hobby guy that’s what’s to make parts for myself. I didn’t know there was a cr10v2. When I get a chance tonight I’ll try to some reading on it.

 

[banjopete]

This counts as it's all 3d printer related. As to the question, I've had only an ender 3 to compare to but I also wanted plug and play with little fuss which is what I got. It's not completely hands off but it's been excellent to me

Using the cnc router my ender 3 helped me make I put a door on v2.0 of my 3d printer enclosure.

Sent from my SM-G960W using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[850xpeps]

So the cr10v2 looks to have some nice features. But one page mentioned it cannot print with 2 filaments? Why would this be?

So the ender 5 pro would require a a glass bed where as the cr10v2 has? Correct?

What would must have upgrades to an ender 5 be that would bring the cost closer to that of the cr10v2?

Also seen mentioned that it was direct drive then in the next paragraph it says a direct drive can be added. Sorry for the newb questions.

 

[bdbecker]

So the cr10v2 looks to have some nice features. But one page mentioned it cannot print with 2 filaments? Why would this be?...

It can print different filaments, just not at the same time (only one extruder). Some printers have dual extruders so two different filaments can be loaded and used on the same print. Looks like the CR10V2 is capable of running PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Any suggestions on using a glass bed with the Ender 5?

I picked one up but haven't used it yet. Using the factory magnetic print bed I have to print a raft for good adhesion and it consumes a lot of filament just for the raft. My understanding is I can use the glass bed and print directly to it but looking for any suggestions first.

Thanks.

 

[mbaulfinger]

BanjoPete, Super enclosure for you printer!

 

[850xpeps]

It can print different filaments, just not at the same time (only one extruder). Some printers have dual extruders so two different filaments can be loaded and used on the same print. Looks like the CR10V2 is capable of running PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPU.

Ya I knew. I just thought it weird that they mentioned it.

It only listed pla and abs. And I’ll most likely wanna use pla and petg. I haven’t done enough reading yet to see if a different driver is needed. Or why it said that.

 

[bdbecker]

Ya I knew. I just thought it weird that they mentioned it.

It only listed pla and abs. And I’ll most likely wanna use pla and petg. I haven’t done enough reading yet to see if a different driver is needed. Or why it said that.

From what I'm reading, most people print PETG at 235-240C nozzle temp, 70-80C bed temp. As long as whatever printer you are looking at can hit those temps, you should be able to print PETG.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

PETG can require as high as 250C nozzle and 90C for the bed.


In other news...

Fuuuuuuuuuu.....

 

[850xpeps]

Ordered the cr10v2 from creakily website. Didn’t necessarily need the size but with direct drive and glass bed and being $60 more than the 5pro. I figured it’s a wash.

Plus I couldn’t find an available 5pro in Canada.

 

[pwhittle]

I just bought an Ender 3 from Amazon, assembled it, and the filament feed is not working. Swapped cables at both ends between Filament and X-axis to confirm the cables and motors work, and that leaves the control board.

I messaged the seller to se what their response is.

Paul


Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[bdbecker]

My MIL works in a nursing home. One of the precautions they are taking these days is that they now have to wear surgical masks all day. She mentioned to Wife yesterday that she (and her coworkers) are starting to get sores on their ears, some even getting cuts and bleeding from the elastic bands chafing on their ears. Wife started looking around for ways to fix it and found these 3D printed hooks.

https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3dpx-013410
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4249113

The nice thing is that, unlike a lot of the other 3DP PPE projects that are floating around right now, these are actually approved by the NIH for use in clinical settings. So if you guys were looking for a project that could make a difference right now, maybe reach out to someone you know in the health care field and see if they'd be interested in something like this. They print fast - I'm averaging right around 30 minutes a piece (batch of 18 takes right around 9 hours).

View media item 102485

 

[WoodsTruck]

My MIL works in a nursing home.

https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3dpx-013410
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4249113

I printed a bunch of these for the exact same reason. I know some nurses that I have given them to also. They have been much appreciated.

 

[pwhittle]

I just bought an Ender 3 from Amazon, assembled it, and the filament feed is not working. Swapped cables at both ends between Filament and X-axis to confirm the cables and motors work, and that leaves the control board.

I messaged the seller to se what their response is.

Paul


Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

Never mind. They let me know that the print head had to be up to temperature before it will activate the filament stepper.

Rookie error.

Paul


Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[brawls43]

I found this video really helpful in getting my Ender 3 running well.

 

[youinreverse]

My MIL works in a nursing home. One of the precautions they are taking these days is that they now have to wear surgical masks all day. She mentioned to Wife yesterday that she (and her coworkers) are starting to get sores on their ears, some even getting cuts and bleeding from the elastic bands chafing on their ears. Wife started looking around for ways to fix it and found these 3D printed hooks.

https://3dprint.nih.gov/discover/3dpx-013410
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4249113

The nice thing is that, unlike a lot of the other 3DP PPE projects that are floating around right now, these are actually approved by the NIH for use in clinical settings. So if you guys were looking for a project that could make a difference right now, maybe reach out to someone you know in the health care field and see if they'd be interested in something like this. They print fast - I'm averaging right around 30 minutes a piece (batch of 18 takes right around 9 hours).

I've been printing these non stop as well. I had someone in a local Facebook group asking if anyone could make some so I stepped up. I'm printing about five every two hours.

I'm a lot more comfortable printing something like this that isn't made to prevent the spread of the virus, but still makes a difference. I don't really want the liability of homemade PPE. The woman I'm giving these to to distribute says the healthcare workers at her clinic are loving them and they make the masks much more comfortable.

 

[850xpeps]

It’s here. Set it up and try it out

 

[jwmelvin]

I've been using my i3 mk2s a good bit lately.
I made some cleats to hold my lathe toolholders:


A vacuum connection for the disc sander:


A light for the bench grinder:


And a PAPR for use around the shop:


Edit: hm, images with imgur links didn't work.

 

[BoilermakerFan]

SWEET!

My Biqu order from the END of March is still sitting in China. I'm becoming very annoyed with their excuses. They keep blaming it on the freight forwarders.

 

[850xpeps]

SWEET!

My Biqu order from the END of March is still sitting in China. I'm becoming very annoyed with their excuses. They keep blaming it on the freight forwarders.

My creality came from China in little over a week. Amazon stuff took 3 weeks lol

 

[bdbecker]

...And a PAPR for use around the shop:

That's pretty cool - is that something you came up with, or did you get the files from somewhere?

 

[BoilermakerFan]

My creality came from China in little over a week. Amazon stuff took 3 weeks lol

Yeah... I'm getting really annoyed. About ready to call my CC company and dispute the charge.

 

[850xpeps]

Having some petg blues.



It seems to want to clump when it’s doing close infill.

I managed to print a keychain. 245 degree nozzle and 92 bed temp for first layer then 240 and 85 after that. It turned out not bad. But still couldn’t get other prints to work.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I have been using 245/85 with my PETG as per the instructions.

It works good for what I'm doing. I have been battling bed adhesion though so I tried the Creality glass bed thinking that would be the trick. I thought I did a reset on the bed height and the glass was too high and ground off the end of my nozzle.

 

[vpd66]

I have been using 245/85 with my PETG as per the instructions.

It works good for what I'm doing. I have been battling bed adhesion though so I tried the Creality glass bed thinking that would be the trick. I thought I did a reset on the bed height and the glass was too high and ground off the end of my nozzle.

I switched my Ender 3 to a glass bed and it took quite a bit of time to get the bed leveling and limit switch adjusted right because the glass was thicker. I've also been having good luck with sugar water for adhesion on the glass plate.

 

[850xpeps]

I have been using 245/85 with my PETG as per the instructions.



It works good for what I'm doing. I have been battling bed adhesion though so I tried the Creality glass bed thinking that would be the trick. I thought I did a reset on the bed height and the glass was too high and ground off the end of my nozzle.

I went to 245/95 on my creality glass bed and it was adhereing. So I think I got that fixed. But can’t seem to figure out why it won’t do small infills without bunching.

 

[bdbecker]

I went to 245/95 on my creality glass bed and it was adhereing. So I think I got that fixed. But can’t seem to figure out why it won’t do small infills without bunching.

From what I'm reading about printing PETG is that its all about finding the sweet spot between speed and flow. If the flow seems good, you may need to slow down the travel speed a little.

 

[jwmelvin]

That's pretty cool - is that something you came up with, or did you get the files from somewhere?

Thanks. I started with my own design using a smaller fan and 3M filters, here. Then I saw someone else's similar project, and modified my own for version 2 to use Milwaukee batteries and a larger fan; I kept an option to use 3M filters or to use Roomba HEPA filters (which are a lot more available and cheaper these days). In use around the shop, the HEPA filters seem to work very well. All the parts are my own design in Fusion 360. It could use some more detail work, and revision to use easily available tubing (I used some anesthesia tubing I had laying around).