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2020 Garage Sale Thread

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b.well

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NY
Hello again

If it's better to post this in another thread please let me know. I started here and you have been very helpful so I am continuing on.

I ran into an issue disassembling the Columbian Woodworking Vise. Took: PB blaster, TWO 1 1/4" half inch sockets on breaker bars, and a pipe wrench to get the nut off the front of the dynamic jaw (to release the slide rod). After the nut broke free it was easier for a turn then got hard again. Not so unusual I thought if it's all rusty in there. Kept turning and some metal fell out the front. Wasn't sure what it was but all I could do then was keep going. As you can see in the pictures I tore off the outer thread at the end of the slide rod. I don't think it's so bad as the nut goes past that thread when tight. However, now the nut does not want to go on. My guess is the end of the slide rod was hammered after the nut went on to prevent it from coming off.

Questions:
1. How do you recommend getting the nut back on? I could force it with the ratchet but I don't want to do any more damage. I do not have a tap/die this big. I think the thread is 3/4". I do have a rethreader 3/4" fine thread. Again, it doesn't go on easy and I haven't forced it; thread on it is definitely not as deep as on the slide rod. I am guessing any repair to the threads will need to be with a file.

2. Should I proceed with taking off the other slide rod bolt? It doesn't look like the end is hammered but it could be a little bit. I want to have a remedy for the first one before I potentially create the issue again. Ideally, also find a better way to lock the slide rod and not leave teeth marks in it.

3. Side note. The dynamic jaw cannot be removed from the main thread with a wrench or screwdriver or tap. The pin is mushroomed out on both sides, not intended to be removed. I am not a machinist so can't whip up a new one. New territory for me here. Thanks for all your help!!!

I managed to get the 2nd(still attached) slide rod into a soft pipe jaw but turning the bolt would still turn the slide rod. I wire wheeled the head of the 2nd slide rod and it clearly has been hammered. I didn't want to damage it, didn't want to grind it off (not much material there). So I got all I could reach using various wire wheels. Rails, main screw, and the handle are now wire wheeled.

NOTE: DO NOT use Harbor Freight Wire Wheels unless you are ok with scratches! I used a small flat wheel and a cup wheel, both for the first time, and they both left scratches on the metal. My 6" dewalt in my bench grinder does not leave scratches, neither does my forney wire wheel for my drill. I think the grit to use to sand that out is 400.

I still have not been able to get the nut back on the first slide rod. My friend recommended Cranking the bolt back on like I did getting it off. The idea being once it gets past the rough start it will be fine. I am still open to the idea of filing. Dragging my feet some for other thoughts :)
 

Provincial

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I have had success with repairing a damaged thread like that using a three-corner file, carefully working the oversize area down to the same pitch diameter (technical term) so the threads are uniform in diameter with the undamaged threads.

If you can find something with the same thread (pitch and diameter) to try the nut on, you can determine if the internal threads of the nut are damaged. If they are OK, or if you have the appropriate thread restorer, the nut can be your test gauge for your work on the male threads. Go slowly and check often. You can use Prussian Blue or a Sharpie to find the high spots.
 

Outlawmws

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Ok one last then I'll shut up

Pair of Blue-Point tail pipe stretchers.
When the guy said $5.00 the pair, I nearly had to clean out my drawers..
:eyecrazy:

And this single mantle lantern that needs some TLC. $3.00

Lots of suckage for 3Jakes today, but I'l focus on the Coleman lantern -

That 249 is not that common, and it in GREAT shape!

Fair warning however; its NOT white gas, - its kerosene. There should be a pre-heater cup on the base of the generator.

Once of the generators is for the 248 (blue box) the other is for the more common 200A white gas single mantle lanterns (most being red)

I'd LOVE to find one like that! especially in that shape! :drool:
 

3jakes

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Lots of suckage for 3Jakes today, but I'l focus on the Coleman lantern -

That 249 is not that common, and it in GREAT shape!
Fair warning however; its NOT white gas, - its kerosene. There should be a pre-heater cup on the base of the generator.
Once of the generators is for the 248 (blue box) the other is for the more common 200A white gas single mantle lanterns (most being red)
I'd LOVE to find one like that! especially in that shape! :drool:

Yeah I thought of your posts about single mantles when I bought it.
I never knew there was such a thing, let alone it being Kero fueled.
 

b.well

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NY
I have had success with repairing a damaged thread like that using a three-corner file, carefully working the oversize area down to the same pitch diameter (technical term) so the threads are uniform in diameter with the undamaged threads.

If you can find something with the same thread (pitch and diameter) to try the nut on, you can determine if the internal threads of the nut are damaged. If they are OK, or if you have the appropriate thread restorer, the nut can be your test gauge for your work on the male threads. Go slowly and check often. You can use Prussian Blue or a Sharpie to find the high spots.

Thanks Provincial

After further inspection.... I do think the issue is with the Nut. No cross threading in there but I do see some metal in the channel. Looks like it needs to be cleaned up, rethreaded. My tap/die kit only goes up to 1/2". I think these threads are 3/4". Right now I cant crank on the nut because the slide rod keeps turning in the soft pipe jaws I am using. I am going to get a matching bolt and nut size at home depot tomorrow. Try to fix the nut with a bolt I can crank on. I also have a neighbor who is a mechanic, although quite busy, I'll see if he has a coarse 3/4 tap.

I also noticed something else unusual to me. The outer most thread on the slide rod is more proud (taller) than the rest of the threads. I haven't seen this before but wonder if this was intended to keep the nut on. Or, if it was the result of hammering to mushroom the end. Either way, this vise was factory made NOT to come apart. I did file this down some after the picture but haven't checked for level again yet.
 

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3baygarage

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Rusty weekend continued:

KD 2031 tail pipe cutter $1.00
Reed No.11 Pipe wrench ??? $1.00
Miller C-3301 Retaining ring pliers $1.00
Starrett #230 in red case $5.00

& my favorite that i had no idea what it was....
Buckingham #6103 $1.00
Video here: (skip to 45 minutes)

Cool finds. That Reed wrench is pretty neat. Looks like the Miller pliers were made by Williams.
 

b.well

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May 13, 2020
Messages
391
Location
NY
These saws are for sale locally $5 each. I am shopping for a neighbor that needs one and maybe one for myself. I'll look for USA brands/markings. But outside of that I am not sure. Definitely an interesting variety there.

Which one would you buy?
 

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Private Lugnutz

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Decent haul (Lugz 2020_30) from the flea market this morning.

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The Box o' BELL SYSTEM standard pencils is self-explanatory.

Some of you who have been around awhile may recognize that battery charger. It's my second. A Westinghouse Rectigon. This one is smaller. It will be interesting to get it home and compare the capacities and tubes and whatnot.

That 6-foot folding rule was made in Germany. It is imperial on one side and metric on the the other. Have to clean it up to see if there's any branding.

The midget mix includes a Dowidat ratchet (must be Germany day...), a 40's vintage Duro-Chrome extension, a 40's vintage Williams sliding tee (9/32-inch drive), and an unknown (no markings) palm ratchet.
 

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Smokeshow69

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Decent haul (Lugz 2020_30) from the flea market this morning.



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The Box o' BELL SYSTEM standard pencils is self-explanatory.



Some of you who have been around awhile may recognize that battery charger. It's my second. A Westinghouse Rectigon. This one is smaller. It will be interesting to get it home and compare the capacities and tubes and whatnot.



That 6-foot folding rule was made in Germany. It is imperial on one side and metric on the the other. Have to clean it up to see if there's any branding.



The midget mix includes a Dowidat ratchet (must be Germany day...), a 40's vintage Duro-Chrome extension, a 40's vintage Williams sliding tee (9/32-inch drive), and an unknown (no markings) palm ratchet.



Nice haul on the umpire gear lugz!


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seber

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Deep East Tx.
These saws are for sale locally $5 each. I am shopping for a neighbor that needs one and maybe one for myself. I'll look for USA brands/markings. But outside of that I am not sure. Definitely an interesting variety there

Which one would you buy?

I'd be looking for Disston.
 

Private Lugnutz

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I do like the battery charger!
Yeah, it's cool for sure. I don't know the odds of finding two of the same make, different model, but I'm happy the God of All Pickers was smiling on me today. I posted a few more pics here.

All,

If you're interested in seeing more photos of the NOS BELL SYSTEM box and pencils or the Dowidat rat, see the 'Bell System' and 'Midget drive' threads respectively. Use the Index in the Sticky to find them.

Here's that folding rule. German export. Not tempered steel. Not a machinist's tool. Not for fine measurements, and it's more than a little unwieldy going the length of 72 inches with that many folds. The first 2 inches are declined in 32nds, the 3rd in 64ths, and the remainder in 16ths.
 

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Smokeshow69

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I posted this in a different thread, but I finally got to hold it in my hands. It is in much better shape than I thought. Its just missing the handle. No dents and only some surface rust.
View media item 106027View media item 106028View media item 106029
I also got these 3 "running" Homelite chainsaws.
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All from one yardsale for $160 total.



Nice work! The torpedo nugget box is not easy to find. I bet you could polish that paint to bring a lot of the color back !


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bargainhuntingking

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Nov 22, 2013
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The Amazing Pacific Northwest
Today’s haul from Habitat, ReStore and Goodwill. Some of the individual deals were quite good. 2cac2c76208bda59f5a06b79968674da.jpg
$5 Collins axe
$3 Coleman stove stand
$15 Craftsman Industrial Hammerdrill in metal case
$3 Wen 3” belt sander (and found a 40 grit 3M belt at the next store or $0.25!)
$8 Waterloo toolbox (had to carry the stuff home somehow)
$15 Coleman stove
$3 Blackburn Mtn bike rack
Seeds $0.30/pack
Vaco long hollow handle nut drivers and 1/4” handled extension spinner $1 each
Folding steel traction aids for car stuck in ice $5
$4 Hex key sets metric/SAE USA made
$12 radiant (silent) heater
$5 TrueTemper pitchfork
$5 Craftsman 1/2” torque wrench
$5 Thermos
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WNYflyer

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Lockport, NY
I posted this in a different thread, but I finally got to hold it in my hands. It is in much better shape than I thought. Its just missing the handle. No dents and only some surface rust.
View media item 106027View media item 106028View media item 106029

Yeah Baby, Congratulations :rocker: and you **** !

A few years back my cousin and I were comparing notes on our yard sale scores from some weekend and he asked me if I had gone to a particular sale and I said nope. He says look what I got, he says I don't really know what it is really for but I know it is cool. Ended up basically being that box but it said for a Blackhawk porta-power ? Even before he could get any of those words out I called him a ******* ! :lol:
 

Smokeshow69

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Yeah Baby, Congratulations :rocker: and you **** !



A few years back my cousin and I were comparing notes on our yard sale scores from some weekend and he asked me if I had gone to a particular sale and I said nope. He says look what I got, he says I don't really know what it is really for but I know it is cool. Ended up basically being that box but it said for a Blackhawk porta-power ? Even before he could get any of those words out I called him a ******* ! :lol:



Porta power[emoji15][emoji15] your cousin really *****!



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bmwrd0

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Beaver Fever Oregon
Todays finds:


I had to buy a really beat up bit-brace to get the flex, but worth it at $5. Then again I paid way to much for the Billings box at $20, full of sockets. Two dollars got me two 3" v-pulleys, one craftsman marked, and the wood handle. I have no idea what it is for, but at .50 I figured why not. The Plomb puller was kind of an oddity, as I was ending the morning buying creamer and some flowers for the wife as she has had a pretty bad week, but the place I would normally go to was out of the creamer she likes and as I had time, I went over to another store a few miles away that I knew would have it. And there was a sale that sounded OK in that direction. So, stopped at the sale, started looking around and immediately swooped on the puller set. $20 and the guy kept trying to sell me every thing else in his backyard. I might have to go back later...

 

d42jeep

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Since we were doing some shopping in Carson City, NV today, we stopped by an estate sale near Washoe Lake. Pickings were slim but we came home with a few tools, mostly Craftsman =V= sockets.
-Don
 

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Smokeshow69

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Todays finds:





I had to buy a really beat up bit-brace to get the flex, but worth it at $5. Then again I paid way to much for the Billings box at $20, full of sockets. Two dollars got me two 3" v-pulleys, one craftsman marked, and the wood handle. I have no idea what it is for, but at .50 I figured why not. The Plomb puller was kind of an oddity, as I was ending the morning buying creamer and some flowers for the wife as she has had a pretty bad week, but the place I would normally go to was out of the creamer she likes and as I had time, I went over to another store a few miles away that I knew would have it. And there was a sale that sounded OK in that direction. So, stopped at the sale, started looking around and immediately swooped on the puller set. $20 and the guy kept trying to sell me every thing else in his backyard. I might have to go back later...






Nice puller! I wish that was a duplicate for you as I need that style but I think you probably will want to keep that one!?

The wood handle is for old school bit braces before the more modern brace / speed wrench style was invented I believe?


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Outlawmws

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If the wood handle has 3/4 or 1/2" pipe threads, I believe it is for an auger type post hole digger.

I have a couple of these, one we used to see how deep we could dig in my old back yard. We got to about 20 ft, and after dirt and clay layers, hit sand and water. (not too surprising; the old house was about 20 ft above sea level and near a bay..). at that point we could get no deeper as we couldn't get much wet sand back out the hole and the sand collapsed on itself.
 
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Old Radar

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Everyone is really pulling in some great stuff!

These saws are for sale locally $5 each. I am shopping for a neighbor that needs one and maybe one for myself. I'll look for USA brands/markings. But outside of that I am not sure. Definitely an interesting variety there.

Which one would you buy?

Good advice from seber and Outlaw about Disston, and although I'm probably late for adding advice, if you have a choice, I'd stay away from the silver medallions that just say Disston and USA and have small circles surrounding the central keystone. Those saws are from after Disston was bought by HK Porter and the quality plummeted. You'll also run into a lot of saws with a medallion that says Warranted Superior. Although vastly superior to the HK Porter saws, the Warranted saws from most of the big manufacturers of the time were second tier quality--they only put their name on highest quality product. If you are interested in Disston saws, check out the Disstonian Institute.
 

MercLSU

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Baton Rouge, LA
Earlier in the week I snagged a Milwaukee M18 chainsaw and 3.0 battery off of Facebook marketplace, dang near new, for $120. I technically already own one but my parents borrowed it and fell in love, so it's easier to get another and make that an early Christmas present. The 3.0 battery is way too small but I've others so I'm happy with the deal.

Today I went to an estate sale in town and left with a $55 pile of fun. $50 if you count the miter saw that my neighbor asked me to snag which was $5.

I probably would have gotten out of the door for $20 - $25 but I wrestled a couple of military lamps off of the wall that they were proud of, but they spoke to me and I wasn't going to leave them. They pivot, swivel, and telescope. I couldn't find anything on the web for that FSN (6230-706-0575), but that at least places them between 1955 and 1974 from what I understand. I'm hoping Mr. Lugz will have some insight into these.

Fun things include:

US military lamps
Coleman 501 in great shape with cook kit, box, etc. If you know the story of the 501, they're the "bomb".
New sledge handle
Big miter saw
Military pick / shovel
Dunlap drill press vise
Adjustable German coping saw
Ford double box end eight point wrench
CA Meyers Awl for All
Small USA vise grips
CM 1/4" breaker bar with some poor guy's lost 10mm socket attached
Rectangular BSA canteen and cover
 

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Old Radar

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Three estate sales today with interesting things at each. First stop I pulled in a lot of wrenches and sockets. The gray box was chock-full of wrenches—most were CM DBEs and combos =V=,-V-, =VV= & -VV-. About a third were Taiwanese Alltrade and ProMate (the two baskets on the right). The rest were a set of Indestro Select Steel short offset box end wrenches and then ones and twos of Proto, Vlchek, Bonney, Blue Point, Duro Chrome and unbranded. $18.
The socket rails were $3 each—one had ½ inch Thorsens and the other a few 3/8 inch CM=v=, Thorsens and some from Taiwan. The ½ Thorsen 77C ratchet was $5.
Everything else was in a $5 bag and included the 3/8 Duro Chrome ratchet, a few Bonny sockets, some Ace branded sockets and a ¼ inch set from Taiwan.

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Second stop provided more wrenches from Herbrand, Indestro, Bonney and Armstrong. Also an English TW spanner and a small W&B 21. W&B is Whitman & Barnes—they were bought out by J.H. Williams in 1920.
The cutters are Snap-on Vacuum Grip #386 from 1946. L26 Thin nose slip-joint pliers from Crescent Tool Co. A nice Greenfield Tap & Die tap handle No.5. and a Lufkin Mezurall 926 6’ steel tape measure. $14 for the lot.

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At the third stop $7 bought a couple items from a Ford Model-A tool kit; an original patent Allway Saw handle (1935-6) and three blades—the coarse one is designed to fit the “improved” handle; three North Bros. Yankee Handyman Drill Points; a no-name steel file handle and a two-bladed screwdriver from “StewarT” that I can find no information on.
Can anyone give me a vector?

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RTM

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SF Bay Area
These saws are for sale locally $5 each. I am shopping for a neighbor that needs one and maybe one for myself. I'll look for USA brands/markings.

Which one would you buy?

I don’t buy brands, I buy handles. If the handles feel good in your naked hand, and the blade is relatively straight, go for it. The second tier mentioned above was a big deal, 80 years ago. Nowadays these 2nd tier saws are better than anything you could buy at the big box stores.

The silver medallions are losers, but otherwise, big medallions, and sunken medallions are all older. Real real old saws may not even have medallions. I have a Butcher with a stamped blade, and no medallions.

But if you want Brands, Atkins (3 As on medallion), Disston, Groves, Simonds, Spear & Jackson etc, and many small makers you’ve never heard of (Something Bakewell & Madsen)
 
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