Smokeshow69
Well-known member
I was wondering if you hit any sales this weekend. Can’t wait to see what you found!
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2020 Garage Sale Thread
- Thread starter LesserSon
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I was wondering if you hit any sales this weekend. Can’t wait to see what you found!
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pelletman
Well-known member
I grew up in the antique business and my mother used to deal in a lot of these. I've had a bunch of myself. They generally bring 100 bucks a stack around here these days furniture has really gone into the toilet. Recently I became aware of the steel GW bookcases. I bought two stacks with a top from a local guy who sells stuff, I'd like to find a complete one. There was one on Facebook marketplace but it was too far away. They are a nice industrial gray
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pelletman
Well-known member
Went to a promising looking 30-minute away estate sale with a bunch of tools advertised. When I got there their pricing was fairly ridiculous, or at least full retail. Chinese rotating vice that you see a million of, $100. Ended up buying two cylinders of MAPP gas $2, two frost-free hose bibs $10 and the two lead hammers for a buck a piece. 
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bmwrd0
Well-known member
All the way back on Thursday, I hit a sale that was advertising an interesting shop and general house clearout. I have delt with this company before, and they can be all over the place with pricing, so I figured why not.
So, for $15 bucks I got a Proto mfd 18" bar, a Craftsman tin of sockets (Plomb and SK Wayne mostly) and a Snap-on ratchet from 1940.
Friday is my main hunting day, and, well, if you don't look, you don't find. So, I went to two sales WAY out of my way, as the first one sounded really interesting and the second one had interesting photos. Well, the first had interesting stuff, all on a table that wasn't for sale. Nothing else was even remotely interesting, but that is often the challenge with family-run sales. All too often you go to look at something and it's all "no, we aren't selling that!" Oh well.
Second sale was a pro sale, and there was lots of vintage tools in the pics, but not exactly what I was looking for, and all the other tools were run of the mill stuff that I have no interest in. But I did buy some salt and pepper shakers (squid!) for the wife at X-mas.
The third sale was good. Good prices, good stuff, although nothing too exciting, and I would have gone there first if it opened before 10 am. Oh well.
two 4" adjustable (Proto LA, Superadjuable) Proto duckbill pliers, Cornwell breaker bar. All of that and a book for $10
After that, I went back to the sale I hit on Thursday
picking up a Proto 1-1/8 socket, Proto hammerhead, and a Plomb DBE for $3.
Finally, I was off to another whole house clearout, where I picked up these for $5
A Magna-tip set and a Motorola (made by Triplett) control line test set. These were from a little before my time at ATT, though I occasionally saw them floating around. A lineman used them for maintenance checks on lines between poles, before and after the B-box.
So, for $15 bucks I got a Proto mfd 18" bar, a Craftsman tin of sockets (Plomb and SK Wayne mostly) and a Snap-on ratchet from 1940.
Friday is my main hunting day, and, well, if you don't look, you don't find. So, I went to two sales WAY out of my way, as the first one sounded really interesting and the second one had interesting photos. Well, the first had interesting stuff, all on a table that wasn't for sale. Nothing else was even remotely interesting, but that is often the challenge with family-run sales. All too often you go to look at something and it's all "no, we aren't selling that!" Oh well.
Second sale was a pro sale, and there was lots of vintage tools in the pics, but not exactly what I was looking for, and all the other tools were run of the mill stuff that I have no interest in. But I did buy some salt and pepper shakers (squid!) for the wife at X-mas.
The third sale was good. Good prices, good stuff, although nothing too exciting, and I would have gone there first if it opened before 10 am. Oh well.
two 4" adjustable (Proto LA, Superadjuable) Proto duckbill pliers, Cornwell breaker bar. All of that and a book for $10
After that, I went back to the sale I hit on Thursday
picking up a Proto 1-1/8 socket, Proto hammerhead, and a Plomb DBE for $3.
Finally, I was off to another whole house clearout, where I picked up these for $5
A Magna-tip set and a Motorola (made by Triplett) control line test set. These were from a little before my time at ATT, though I occasionally saw them floating around. A lineman used them for maintenance checks on lines between poles, before and after the B-box.
bmwrd0
Well-known member
Today, I again ventured out. Six sales on my list, the first two were duds. Oh, they had tools, but I was either too late, or too discerning. After the second I hit a TOO estate sale, as I had forgotten about it. Apparently, the couple had owned a car dealership in South Dakota and had retired out here, so there was a bit of automobilia, just super high priced. The guy had taken hood ornaments from cars of the 30's and polished them and mounted on fairly nice pieces of wood. Interesting, but not at 300-400 a pop. But I did find these in the garden shed
Coast to Coast! made and marked by Thorsen, a complete set of 3/8s sockets. And match holder, with this stamp on the bottom
BSA baby! Funny, I was in the scouts, but a very backpacking troop so we didn't tend to spend our money on things like this. So, not bad for $10.50
Next stop advertised another house clearout with tools and plumbing supplies, and again I found something super cool (Craftsman double bit axe) but "oh, that's not for sale..." but I did find a metal box of sockets and such for $5
Challenger ratchet, P&C breaker bar, Craftsman circle H extension and SK, Plomb and Challenger sockets.
And then four more dud sales. But, if you don't look, you don't find.
Coast to Coast! made and marked by Thorsen, a complete set of 3/8s sockets. And match holder, with this stamp on the bottom
BSA baby! Funny, I was in the scouts, but a very backpacking troop so we didn't tend to spend our money on things like this. So, not bad for $10.50
Next stop advertised another house clearout with tools and plumbing supplies, and again I found something super cool (Craftsman double bit axe) but "oh, that's not for sale..." but I did find a metal box of sockets and such for $5
Challenger ratchet, P&C breaker bar, Craftsman circle H extension and SK, Plomb and Challenger sockets.
And then four more dud sales. But, if you don't look, you don't find.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Nice find. And, we have a thread for that!
Thank you, sir!
I was delighted to find them - together, even!
Here they are after a trip to the wire wheel.
Meanwhile, MrsLS happened upon a garage sale on her own, and picked up five cane-seat press-back oak chairs for $50
Monday, son & I had been back to my co-worker’s FIL’s selloff & picked up a 1997 C’man contractor saw (113.299315) for $75. I didn’t post it immediately, because I wanted to get it cleaned up (it’s been idle for years). I haven’t reassembled it yet, but it’s in great shape, only missing the arbor nut wrench.
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jeffmoss26
Well-known member
Awesome stuff guys!
Thanks...lol. From the seller's pictures I read the brand as Stanlux and that's why I couldn't find them. When posting to the thread I realized the seller's pics weren't great and ran down to take my own but didn't look at them close enough before posting my question. Was a very hectic busy day. Much easier to see in my pics
Thanks again!
Indeed. You now that's a Keystone Mfg set, right? I don't think we have one on the Keystone thread. You should post it there. It will get buried here on the GS thread.
AA pics:
I did not. Actually haven't heard of that brand before. I'll search for the thread. Thanks for the intel!
LS: Those twin gators look great all cleaned up! How long are they?
BMW: I think I had one of those match holders. If I still have my backpack, it's probably in there (not sure if it survived all the moves since I was a kid).
Mike
BMW: I think I had one of those match holders. If I still have my backpack, it's probably in there (not sure if it survived all the moves since I was a kid).
Mike
Catfishdan
Well-known member
Today, I again ventured out. Six sales on my list, the first two were duds. Oh, they had tools, but I was either too late, or too discerning. After the second I hit a TOO estate sale, as I had forgotten about it. Apparently, the couple had owned a car dealership in South Dakota and had retired out here, so there was a bit of automobilia, just super high priced. The guy had taken hood ornaments from cars of the 30's and polished them and mounted on fairly nice pieces of wood. Interesting, but not at 300-400 a pop. But I did find these in the garden shed
Coast to Coast! made and marked by Thorsen, a complete set of 3/8s sockets. .." .
I like the label on that set. My local hardware store was a Coast to Coast where I grew up in San Jose.
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
This shocked me, LS. My impression was you were against wire wheels or any other kind of overly aggressive de-rusting, so I had to go back and re-read your diatribe, and now I'm even more confused about the methods you think "most guys" are using that you're against? Most guys who are against mutilating a tool's patina are against wire wheels. What do you think the guys going down to bare steel or worse are using? EDIT: Not being judge-y. Just curious. The only thing I can think of that is worse than a wire wheel (in terms of its potential to strip a tool down to the bare shiny steel you were objecting to...) is a grinder. So that's where you draw the line? Or am I misunderstanding you? (I know, We've known each other for years so it's funny this is coming up now...)
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
The design and style looks much older than the contents. Anachronistic. Was it retro? Or were they around for a long time and never changed their marketing?
406Rich
Well-known member
Lugz,
That definitely deserves a response.
SO NOW YOU’VE NOTICED HOW MUCH TIME MR. COBB SPENDS DOING THINGS HE SAYS NEVER TO DO.
I do not count Fe2O3 (rust/hematite) as “patina;” I believe your position is similar. Rust is bad.
“Patina” I understand to mean the accumulated grime of countless dirty hands, dried sweat, and in some cases toddler saliva found on old wooden objects. (Numismatics venerates the same film on coins as an indicator of authenticity.) I recognize there’s a romanticism for some in making physical contact with the dried body fluids of our predecessors, but personally, I’m not really a fan. By and large, a properly-applied coat of shellac (bug juice), boiled linseed oil (plant juice), or both can have the same visual and tactile effect (minus the stickiness), and DOESN’T come off with a damp cloth. I am willing to use the word in the context of a general discussion of surface condition on steel tools, but I here I think I should distinguish it from what I referred to earlier as “the work of decades.”
What I meant was the natural production of Fe3O4 (black oxide/magnetite) of iron exposed to oxygen. Unlike rust, it does not swell, is hard and slippery, so is a desireable surface for mating parts. If salts (from sweat) are removed, a light coat of oil will cling to Fe3O4 with adhesion superior to bright steel, and protect the underlying steel from further corrosion. That is the surface I desire for my tools.
The problem is, Fe3O4 and Fe2O3 commingle freely (often in unevenly-distributed layers and concretions) and react similarly to chemicals & electrolysis, making removal of only the Fe2O3 difficult.
In my experience the best result is achieved by hand-scraping the commingled layers, effectively crushing the Fe3O4 shell(s) that surround the pockets of Fe2O3, exposing the hidden rust for removal with a wire brush (carding). Wire brush alone leaves clusters of rust “geodes” - not desireable, particularly on a smooth or polished surface. These adherent geodes tend to resist the brush even after the rest of the Fe3O4 has been removed, exposing bright steel in uneven patches - ugly! That’s why we should scrape first - to crush these nodules.
The danger in using power tools is that they work faster than we observe and react. Injuries and damage to the workpiece can result. Or as one of my teachers said, “power tools make power mistakes.”
Despite what I may have implied, I resort to the wire wheel frequently, but I hope, judisciously. First, the wire wheel alone simply accellerates the work of the brush alone. It can ruin the surface in very little time. Use a coarse wheel as “most guys” do, and it’s no time at all. While I have both a coarse and a very fine wheel on a benchgrinder, I only use the coarse wheel on coarse, working edges that are likely to be sharpened or reshaped anyway (like a cold chisel).
When do I elect to “cheat” with the very fine wheel?
1. When the tool is chrome or satin nickel, or one of the alloys that just don’t darken.
2. When the tool has been dressed or requires it, resulting in blotches of bright spots.
3. When the surface is textured or contoured in a way that makes hand-scraping impossible (grainy castings and rough, unpolished forgings come to mind). A light touch, single passes and frequent visual inspection can help avoid breaking through the last layer of Fe3O4 on smoother surfaces.
4. When the tool was originally blued AND hardened. I am not sure of any science behind this, but it seems to me that the harder the steel, the more tenacious the Fe3O4. I had a saw blade I was working on, and couldn’t seem to crush up the rust conglomerates. I stepped up the hardness of my scrapers a few times and finally chucked a wire wheel into an electric drill (admittedly lower RPM than a bench grinder), and despite abandoning my original intent, COULD not buff off the Fe3O4! That saw remains the Black Prince of my collection. Hex-shaft driver tips are another item I don’t hesitate to skip straight to the wire wheel.
5. When the underlying steel will darken again quickly anyway, like gray iron, semi-steel, carbon steel. Leaving the raw surface exposed to air overnight, rinsing with hot water, or a coat of BLO (since it contains oxidizers) can help.
6. When I am in a hurry, impatient, lazy, in a foul mood, or just don’t care enough about the object or final result to take the proper steps. I am only human, after all.
That definitely deserves a response.
SO NOW YOU’VE NOTICED HOW MUCH TIME MR. COBB SPENDS DOING THINGS HE SAYS NEVER TO DO.
I do not count Fe2O3 (rust/hematite) as “patina;” I believe your position is similar. Rust is bad.
“Patina” I understand to mean the accumulated grime of countless dirty hands, dried sweat, and in some cases toddler saliva found on old wooden objects. (Numismatics venerates the same film on coins as an indicator of authenticity.) I recognize there’s a romanticism for some in making physical contact with the dried body fluids of our predecessors, but personally, I’m not really a fan. By and large, a properly-applied coat of shellac (bug juice), boiled linseed oil (plant juice), or both can have the same visual and tactile effect (minus the stickiness), and DOESN’T come off with a damp cloth. I am willing to use the word in the context of a general discussion of surface condition on steel tools, but I here I think I should distinguish it from what I referred to earlier as “the work of decades.”
What I meant was the natural production of Fe3O4 (black oxide/magnetite) of iron exposed to oxygen. Unlike rust, it does not swell, is hard and slippery, so is a desireable surface for mating parts. If salts (from sweat) are removed, a light coat of oil will cling to Fe3O4 with adhesion superior to bright steel, and protect the underlying steel from further corrosion. That is the surface I desire for my tools.
The problem is, Fe3O4 and Fe2O3 commingle freely (often in unevenly-distributed layers and concretions) and react similarly to chemicals & electrolysis, making removal of only the Fe2O3 difficult.
In my experience the best result is achieved by hand-scraping the commingled layers, effectively crushing the Fe3O4 shell(s) that surround the pockets of Fe2O3, exposing the hidden rust for removal with a wire brush (carding). Wire brush alone leaves clusters of rust “geodes” - not desireable, particularly on a smooth or polished surface. These adherent geodes tend to resist the brush even after the rest of the Fe3O4 has been removed, exposing bright steel in uneven patches - ugly! That’s why we should scrape first - to crush these nodules.
The danger in using power tools is that they work faster than we observe and react. Injuries and damage to the workpiece can result. Or as one of my teachers said, “power tools make power mistakes.”
Despite what I may have implied, I resort to the wire wheel frequently, but I hope, judisciously. First, the wire wheel alone simply accellerates the work of the brush alone. It can ruin the surface in very little time. Use a coarse wheel as “most guys” do, and it’s no time at all. While I have both a coarse and a very fine wheel on a benchgrinder, I only use the coarse wheel on coarse, working edges that are likely to be sharpened or reshaped anyway (like a cold chisel).
When do I elect to “cheat” with the very fine wheel?
1. When the tool is chrome or satin nickel, or one of the alloys that just don’t darken.
2. When the tool has been dressed or requires it, resulting in blotches of bright spots.
3. When the surface is textured or contoured in a way that makes hand-scraping impossible (grainy castings and rough, unpolished forgings come to mind). A light touch, single passes and frequent visual inspection can help avoid breaking through the last layer of Fe3O4 on smoother surfaces.
4. When the tool was originally blued AND hardened. I am not sure of any science behind this, but it seems to me that the harder the steel, the more tenacious the Fe3O4. I had a saw blade I was working on, and couldn’t seem to crush up the rust conglomerates. I stepped up the hardness of my scrapers a few times and finally chucked a wire wheel into an electric drill (admittedly lower RPM than a bench grinder), and despite abandoning my original intent, COULD not buff off the Fe3O4! That saw remains the Black Prince of my collection. Hex-shaft driver tips are another item I don’t hesitate to skip straight to the wire wheel.
5. When the underlying steel will darken again quickly anyway, like gray iron, semi-steel, carbon steel. Leaving the raw surface exposed to air overnight, rinsing with hot water, or a coat of BLO (since it contains oxidizers) can help.
6. When I am in a hurry, impatient, lazy, in a foul mood, or just don’t care enough about the object or final result to take the proper steps. I am only human, after all.
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Thanks for the lengthy explanation. "Judiciously" would've sufficed, but as always, I appreciate your detailed deconstructions. I trust you didn't take offense. And yes, we agree. Rust is bad, patina (grime, salt, and age) is good, the methods and art of preserving the latter while removing the former can be difficult, and, agreeing with your former shop teacher's pithy saying, best done by hand, referring only to my own.
EDIT: Not being judge-y. Just curious. The only thing I can think of that is worse than a wire wheel (in terms of its potential to strip a tool down to the bare shiny steel you were objecting to...) is a grinder. So that's where you draw the line? Or am I misunderstanding you? (I know, We've known each other for years so it's funny this is coming up now...)
Lugz, just read your edit. I don’t disagree. Grinder is for removing steel. Not a tool for preservation. Abrasive pads, even polishing compounds - same thing.
What I want is something harder than the dirt and rust, but softer than the underlying steel, so that I don’t bite through the magnetite.
The effect of a wire wheel depends on the coarseness (strand deflection and diameter of the tips) and hardness of the wires (tips become work-hardened). So selecting finer wire helps. I’ve tried several. The ones that I like are brass-coated steel, and the individual wire tips break off evenly, so they don’t become work-hardened. Of course the danger remains of holding the tool to the wheel too long.
I suppose the same control is possible (maybe deliberately protecting some surfaces with grease or carefully-timed exposures, as have been described) with chemical/electrolysis bath, but what I’ve seen is sparkle-bright. I have noted the sulfurous odor of the dark residue left from EvapoRust; hematite doesn’t smell like that. Certainly, I am NOT proficient with chemical derusting, so that may be a source of my bias.
To further clarify: magnetite is my aesthetic choice of surface. Because it is already present under the hematite, and because its reestablishment - whether through slow natural exposure or quick bluing contrivance - consumes more iron from the steel, it is NOT desireable to remove it.
Which does not mean I never do so, as outlined in my previous post.
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Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Just the opposite! I'm thinking, Hmm, if you've been using a wire wheel this whole time and I haven't noticed, perhaps I've been too hard on the wire wheelers!
Outlawmws
Well-known member
The trick to wire wheels is a fine soft wheel and a light touch. I often do that to rust on the black oxide on impacts and such with no ill effects. You are essentially using a light polishing degree of pressure
txlonghorn1989
Well-known member
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406Rich What a nice find! I've never actually seen a precision vise like that with the hand wheels. I wonder if it was for a lathe or a mill versus a drill press? Did that set you back an arm and a leg? You ought to post that on the vises thread IMO.
Used the wire wheel chucked in a drill as well as metal rescue and a bath in K-1. I’m no artist or metallurgist, but I’m happy enough with them to be users back in good shape.
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
This is the you **** find of the weekend! Not only are they uncommon, at least the craftsman badges one’s especially this rectangular logo one but to find them with the jaws is almost unheard of! Great work! I can’t believe you got it at the last sale. Was it hidden by something or was there no price on it?
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Catfishdan
Well-known member
So this is what I got at the flea market this morning. I made a rare second pass down an isle to check out a booth that was just setting up when I arrived and I see this sitting among a bunch of cheap toys and garden tools. The guy says $150, I say $100, he says ok, and I’m off to the truck. I’ve been looking for any kind of plomb top chest for a while now and this one was full of good stuff, which I’ll show off on the plomb and long c breads.
This caps off my best plomb weekend ever, after I picked up a bunch of tools and those un-identified torque adapters at an estate sale.
This caps off my best plomb weekend ever, after I picked up a bunch of tools and those un-identified torque adapters at an estate sale.
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Dude are you kidding me[emoji15][emoji15][emoji15] that chest is nearly mint! Plus I see the craftsman speeder with grip you wanted! You ****!
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Smokeshow69
Well-known member
Catfishdan
Well-known member
I know it. I didn’t notice the circle h speeder until I got home. Even a blind dog finds a bone now and then. Pin handle is unmarked 1/2”. The chrome matches the plomb stuff.
bmwrd0
Well-known member
The design and style looks much older than the contents. Anachronistic. Was it retro? Or were they around for a long time and never changed their marketing?
I was actually surprised at the vintage of the Thorsen tools in the set, they were much older than they appeared at first glance. All of the tooling in the set is pre-1962, as it doesn't say MFD USA, which Thorsen started that year. So, not retro at all! Just very, very well preserved. If fact, the card label was tucked behind a couple of pieces of paper towel used to keep the set from rattling.
And Outlaw is right about the wire wheels, a soft touch while using an actual Brass wheel works wonders on Oxide coatings. In my opinion, it is the best for that style of finish, as Evaporust will strip it completely off. Don't ask how I know this...
bmwrd0
Well-known member
Oh, and awesome find Dan! That box is a beauty. Having it full of treasures is just icing on the cake.
3baygarage
Well-known member
BMW- nice looking Thorsen set. The Coast to Coast factor is different.
Catfishdan- heck of a find! It certainly paid to take a second look.
Catfishdan- heck of a find! It certainly paid to take a second look.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
Dan, that's a U-**** if I ever heard of one!
Its RARE to fine someone's set from "Back in the day" that hasn't been muddled up and half the tools lost!
I've found ONE in a tray style box of Long C ratchets and sockets, and the original owner had apparently added to the set! THAT was a find! Extra ratchets, the 1/4" set added, etc...
Its RARE to fine someone's set from "Back in the day" that hasn't been muddled up and half the tools lost!
I've found ONE in a tray style box of Long C ratchets and sockets, and the original owner had apparently added to the set! THAT was a find! Extra ratchets, the 1/4" set added, etc...
Private Lugnutz
Well-known member
Understood, and hence LS's original "judicious" comment. But I can't bring myself to use anything that plugs in. The hardest I will go is leaning into a foam sanding block from time to time. Not that I'm looking down my nose at y'all's tools. To each his own and all that.
Picked these up at the last flea market of the year. Will finish up the SK set. Only missing a couple pieces. 3” Lakeside 26 and a 4” craftsman.
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Lotusnut
Well-known member
What a pleasure to see two people discuss an issue with no animosity and come to an agreement. I wish more people could do this on a much wider range of subjects. The world would definitely be a better place if we as a society could.
Rob
youinreverse
Well-known member
Just one sale yesterday. Ended up with a Snap-on #1 Phillips, Snap-on pry bar, Blue Point snap ring pliers, and a set of Klein flush cutters. Seller wanted $1 for the lot but the lowest bill I had was a $5, and he only had $3 in ones, so we settled on $2.
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Stuart in MN
Well-known member
The design and style looks much older than the contents. Anachronistic. Was it retro? Or were they around for a long time and never changed their marketing?
The label on that Coast to Coast socket set looks like it was inspired by the right side of label Thorsen used, although it does kind of look like it was hand drawn.
Thorsen used the same label into at least the early 1970s - the pictures below are of one my brother bought in 1970, and one I got at a swap meet that's a few years newer than his (hence the higher price.)
wrenchguy
Well-known member
Some stuff from in person auction yesterday.
Vintage powrkraft table saw with dolly.
Skil 450 radio
arm saw. Picking up factory table/stand thursday.
4'x5' 2 sided, lighted my fav adult beverage sign. Nite light for shop!
USA wilton 468.
These few are 1 pile to get a bid.
5/16" super hole shooter.
6 trash can dollies, 3 in usealready.
pipetest plugs.
Another pile built for bid.
new eye wash station, 6 pack 2003 wrigley field beer.
pole climbing spike/gaffs.
1 ton cm hoist
stanley box w/ disston saw.
Vintage powrkraft table saw with dolly.
Skil 450 radio arm saw. Picking up factory table/stand thursday.
4'x5' 2 sided, lighted my fav adult beverage sign. Nite light for shop!
USA wilton 468.
These few are 1 pile to get a bid.
5/16" super hole shooter.
6 trash can dollies, 3 in usealready.
pipetest plugs.
Another pile built for bid.
new eye wash station, 6 pack 2003 wrigley field beer.
pole climbing spike/gaffs.
1 ton cm hoist
stanley box w/ disston saw.
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