The Machine Work Thread

[ez-duzit]

...Trying to decide if I want to spring for a Bison Set Tru 3 jaw chuck.

Heck yeah!

 

[slodat]

Heck yeah!

You buying? They are quite proud of them.

 

[ez-duzit]

...They are quite proud of them.

You have a premium machine. Are you going to cheap-out on an Asian import chuck?

 

[slodat]

You have a premium machine. Are you going to cheap-out on an Asian import chuck?

No. I'm trying to sort out which chuck I want. I'm thinking Toolmex (made in Poland) Set-Tru with two piece jaws. Trying to decide between 8 and 10 inch. Leaning toward 8 because I don't see any big parts in my future and I have a 12" four jaw if I did.

 

[ez-duzit]

Toolmex looks good. But why limit the capacity of your machine by going undersize on the chuck? Don't say $. You'll want 3 and 4-jaw (and eventually 6-jaw).

 

[ClappedOutBport]

ez is right. 8" is way small on a machine like that. I'd do 10" minimum, 12" or 14" 4 jaw for occasional work. If you do work that small often (<1") that's really not the right size machine for the job.

Also slodat, have you considered making your own thread? Not because I don't want to see your content, but because I do! And then it would be nice and consolidated and leave this thread for projects.

 

[rmack898]

Having paid for a new Set Tru Bison 3-jaw for a lathe that I no longer own, let me give you my thoughts.

Bison makes a nice chuck for sure but I don't see the value in the Set Tru option. If you put a piece in a 3-jaw and do all operations in one set up, everything is concentric and you don't need Set Tru.

If you need to turn both ends of a work piece and everything needs to be concentric, then you should be using a 4-jaw.

If you think that you can do everything with a 3-jaw with Set Tru then you are short changing yourself and the lathes capabilities. You need to have both a 3 and 4-jaw chuck.


For the cost of a new Bison Set Tru you can buy 2 good quality used chucks. I just bought this 12" Rhom for $300.

 

[whateg01]

Mac, you aren't wrong that a 4 jaw will do the job, but if you are running multiple parts, it is really nice to be able to just pop the next part in and go without having to dial it in. I can dial in most parts to less than a half on the 4 jaw in about 15 seconds, which is fine for a couple of parts, but if I need to make 50 parts, I don't want to do that. Can I get by without a 4-jaw? No, absolutely not, but if I can do the same job with the 3 jaw, it's faster. If nothing else, just not having to spend the time swapping chucks back and forth makes it worthwhile, IMO. And every time I swap chucks, the next job seems to be better done with the one I just took off.

Dave

 

[rmack898]

And every time I swap chucks, the next job seems to be better done with the one I just took off.

Dave

I can't argue that .

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I will also caution that Bison set-tru chucks have much thinner backplates than say a buck. See my struggles here on a 12.5" 6 jaw set-tru. Makes me really wish I had the buck.

https://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/forum/general/1912454-big-chuck-big-chatter

 

[kazlx]

Overkill is the way

 

[Moosefire]

Overkill is the way

Nice way to get some practice in both programming and machining. Came out great!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[kazlx]

Thanks!

 

[slodat]

Started on my first lathe project last night. Not sure exactly what to call it... I’m making a lever handled nut for the top of the quick change tool post. It replaces the nut on top with a lever similar to the one already there for the wedge.



This is an example of what I’m making.



I cut a chunk of material from one of the rusty bars I bought from the scrap yard and got to making it smaller. Finish seems alright thus far.





I think the next step will be to bore and tap the thread that goes in place of the existing nut. Then part it off a bit long and flip it around to do a taper and clean up the top. I need some material for the handle yet. I don’t have a ball turning setup so I’m thinking I’ll make a more rectangular knob. So far so good. It’s only a 3” or so part and I have a few feet of material to turn into mistakes before I would need more material

 

[kazlx]

Looking good. Just FYI if you want a ball and don't want to deal with it, McMaster has them pretty cheap, already drilled and tapped and ready to go in a few different materials.

 

[whateg01]

A radius cutting attachment is a pretty handy tool to have, too. Then you can turn your own ball for the lever. It can be a bit of a pain to get the threads indexed right. What I do is make the part a little long, then see where the lever ends up pointing. You know the pitch of the thread, so you can calculate how much more needs to come off for it to point the right direction. I'd sneak up on it, though. It's much harder to put material back than to take it off.

If you know somebody with a 3D printer, you can also have them 3D print a knob for the end and it can be any shape you want. I just saw a thing where a guy cast the end of his finger that he apparently cut off in an accident in epoxy for a shift knob!

Dave

 

[MushCreek]

I had a simple little rainy day job today. I'm restoring the Jr. West Coast mirrors on my '72 F-250. For some reason, they make everything out of stainless steel except the hardware. 50 years later, and everything is stained with rust. Most of it is standard hardware except for these little T-bolts. I made them by carving up 3/8" SS carriage bolts, milling flats, facing down the head thickness, and turning the square shoulder round. There are people making them, but I'd rather do it the GJ way!

 

[txvwnut]

The GJ way may not always be the best way but it is always the most pleasing way. The bolts turned out nice.

 

[whateg01]

Finished the first of three casters tonight. Customer has a need for casters with no play in the swivel. And it has to have this kind of brake. And the swivel has to lock. And it has to be stem mount. Anyway, having no luck finding that combination in a COTS solution, I designed a mod. I'll make the other two this week, hopefully, but I had to make sure it was all going to work as intended. I need to sort out some plating issues, but mechanically, it works great!

Dave

 

[slodat]

Finished the handle project. I’m happy with it for my first lathe work.

 

[ez-duzit]

1 & s--nice job.

 

[PugetDude]

Finished the handle project. I’m happy with it for my first lathe work.

Those handles look great!

 

[Toolmaker51]

No. I'm trying to sort out which chuck I want. I'm thinking Toolmex (made in Poland) Set-Tru with two piece jaws. Trying to decide between 8 and 10 inch. Leaning toward 8 because I don't see any big parts in my future and I have a 12" four jaw if I did.

Wile somewhat out of range to normal 'projects', chuck selection and size is a project unto itself.
The most important consideration starts knowing the max RPM of the machine.
An informed purchase is made choseing the material suits potential speed - feet per minute safely. Chuck bodies are cast, semi-steel and really expensive steel. It's not only balance, but literal material resistance to flying apart!
Cast chucks have a place, not on a high speed spindle.

 

[J king]

Here is a fun project.
I’m building an old truck. Wanted the “foot” gas pedal that I had in my first car. It’s just fun. Lol.
I always wondered if they ever made a brake pedal cover with the”feet”. I never saw any.it looked like I needed to make them for the grandkids. they should get a kick out of it..
I printed out a pattern then cut it out and traced profile and etch-a-sketched it.
Came out ok.

 

[shortykorte]

Nice feet.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[gnpenning]

Here is a fun project.
I’m building an old truck. Wanted the “foot” gas pedal that I had in my first car. It’s just fun. Lol.
I always wondered if they ever made a brake pedal cover with the”feet”. I never saw any.it looked like I needed to make them for the grandkids. they should get a kick out of it..
I printed out a pattern then cut it out and traced profile and etch-a-sketched it.
Came out ok.

Where is the little high beam foot??

Had that set back in HS on my truck. Haven't seen one in many years. Must be about time for them to make a come back.

Hope they love them.

 

[J king]

Dimmer is on column so no place to put that.

 

[Monza Harry]

Dimmer is on column so no place to put that.

Make a "nub" to fit on a momentary contact switch and use it for an AhoooGaaa horn or the General Lee's warning device that will get them going. Way to be the Fun One Grand Pa! The Brake Pedal cover was either square or rectangular with the same cross ways ribs. I seem to recall a couple of sizes for manuals , the Large Power Brake and a foot parking brake, [J.C. Whitney I think for some of them]
Dimmer Sw. : https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cal-188221b
Ebay listings, I remember a more style correct version:https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=cal+custom+pedal+japan
And there is a "Moon Eyes version I didn't know/remember: https://www.google.com/imgres?imgur...0CIoBEDMoowFqFwoTCOiWip7Fi-8CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAG

I found an Image, Harry

 

[whateg01]

Working on some custom casters for a customer and he mentioned he also needs a new knob for his tripod. I had some stock left in the chuck, so whipped one out. I dunno if he's attached to original design, but I like mine better. I'll have to see if I need to remake it.

 

[ez-duzit]

1--that turned out well.

 

[whateg01]

Finished up the job making custom casters. Assembling them, I found that the wheel bearings were **** right out of the box. Whoever built these must have pressed them in by pushing on the dust shield, so none turned freely and one didn't spin at all, so I put some new bearings in and made new spacers so they are held rigidly in the frame by the inner races. These things are nice! I'm calling them luxury casters, though the industry term is precision casters.

 

[Ecosta777]

I posted the large 91D tap wrench I made a couple years ago. I just finished the copy of the Starrett 91B I have been working on. Made from hardened and polished A2.

 

[ez-duzit]

7--very nice.

 

[Ecosta777]

Progress on the micrometer carriage stop I'm making for my Clausing 12" lathe. If I had to do it over again, I would not have the round portion sticking out on the right side of the main body. I'd stop flush with the part that mounts to the bed, and have the dial in the spot where that round tube section sticks out now. When it's all assembled it just feels to long.

 

[Ecosta777]

More Photos

 

[ez-duzit]

7--nice work.

 

[tarmy]

Nice work...I do love machine work threads...

 

[king nero]

I posted the large 91D tap wrench I made a couple years ago. I just finished the copy of the Starrett 91B I have been working on. Made from hardened and polished A2.

Real nice! Gotta love some precision working...
Out of interest, the A2 that I know (in Europe) is identical to AISI304 stainless steel. I doubt that's what you used, could you say what material it is?

 

[Ecosta777]

Real nice! Gotta love some precision working...
Out of interest, the A2 that I know (in Europe) is identical to AISI304 stainless steel. I doubt that's what you used, could you say what material it is?

Its A2 air hardening tool steel - UNS T30102

 

[Keyblazer]

Utterly stunning work Guys!
A labor of love.
Much respect!