Breaker Bars? What's worth it?

[sparky 1971]

Some kid at the local tire shop hammered the lug nuts on my truck last time I bought tires from them. They were tight enough that my super duper, end all be all, greatest thing ever made "1400 ft lbs" Milwaukee impact wouldn't touch them. I was able to get them loose using a 30" SK breaker bar and my 300 pounds on the end. I was actually expecting it to break and send me through the wall, but it didn't happen. I have always been a fan of SK, but am now a true believer. I also have a 24" Proto, but it's never been used.

 

[Mr Ratchet]

I have a long and short BB in all four of my drive sizes (1/4"-3/4"). I use them all the time if I can't use an impact. I tend to use the longest and largest drive size that space allows. I seldom use a ratchet to break a fastener loose.

I have bars from several brands with GW and SO making up most of them. I bought an 18" 3/8" drive from SO and like it quite a bit. After a few months of getting it, GW came out with one for 1/4 the price. A friend from work got one and we have done some side by side testing. We could not see any difference when breaking some lightly rusted 3/4" bolts loose. Them seemed to flex the same amount and felt the same in hand when applying pressure. Appearance in the chrome handle versions are also very similar. Had the GW been out when I bought mine, I would have gone with the GW.

I don't have experience with the HF models. I can say the GW ones perform well though. I don't hesitate recommending them from a performance stand point, let alone the cost benefits. If an expensive brand is the only option for the length and drive size you want, then get that.

 

[jimmyin3D]

An 18” breaker bar in 3/8 is super useful. I got a koken one for cheap on amazon but I’m pretty sure any 18” 3/8 bar would be good. I also have a 30” KTC 1/2 breaker bar when things won’t budge, make sure with the longer lengths that the width of them is thicker. And a 24” Pittsburgh pro, doesn’t get used much but it’s a simple tool and cheap.




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[KnurledNut]

I havent read all the comments, but ive had good success with the Pitt. Pro.
I have an older Cornwell that is a beast. It has a female square drive in the handle.
I'll also mention I did bend a Duralast fairly easily. Not impressed.

Regardless of brand, I highly recommend a ratcheting adaptor.
Also a digital torque adaptor.
Both open up many more possibilities for a breaker bar.

 

[boom10ful]

I have been disappointed with the 30" SK 1/2 drive breaker bar. I've used it 5 times on bolts torqued to 260ft/lbs and it now has a permanent bend in the middle. It also flexes bad like a U-shape. The 24" Icon breaker bar has surprisingly held up better with little to no flex.

 

[Rinspeed]

I have been disappointed with the 30" SK 1/2 drive breaker bar. I've used it 5 times on bolts torqued to 260ft/lbs and it now has a permanent bend in the middle. It also flexes bad like a U-shape. The 24" Icon breaker bar has surprisingly held up better with little to no flex.

In the few times I have needed it SK has great customer service. Reach out to them and get it replaced. It's very possible you just got a bad tool, as I said above the one I have is very tough.

 

[Tennessee Cattleman]

I have a 3/4" drive Wright Bull Bar that's the toughest I have got my hands on so far and has more than paid for itself.

 

[Al Borland]

I have been disappointed with the 30" SK 1/2 drive breaker bar. I've used it 5 times on bolts torqued to 260ft/lbs and it now has a permanent bend in the middle. It also flexes bad like a U-shape. The 24" Icon breaker bar has surprisingly held up better with little to no flex.

I've got a couple SK bars (Wayne and Fuc'em era) and they're actually pretty good. And I don't like SK in general, so...

 

[RedneckWelder]

I have the 30” Snap On bar. For home use I’d buy the Icon bar it’s very nice for the money. I just wanted the best one I could buy for a severe service environment.

 

[Ralf11]

who uses a sliding T-handle as a breaker bar?

 

[unslow1]

I have a couple of sliding T handles but it's been years since I used them. Those HF extendable ratchets and breaker bars are what I keep in everything for changing tires.

 

[RoundedNut]

who uses a sliding T-handle as a breaker bar?

Funny you should say that, just got these in today. Signet flex t handles with detents at the ends for full rotation.

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

depends on..

if it's for my road / recovery tool, I would get something US made.

I don't want breaker bar head snap off or shear off when i am trying to repair something outside somewhere.

 

[jshillin]

In 1/2", have a nice, soft grip Snap-on and a few Harbor Freight bars. They all work fine. I normally grab the snap-on when in the garage and have an HF breaker bar with the correct size socket for lugs in most of my vehicles. I have a little 3/8" MAC breaker bar that also serves as an extension of sorts, but it rarely gets used.

 

[ZenkiS14]

Well, caught the HF Pro for $15 this weekend at HF. That'll do.

 

[matt_i]

I've learned over time if I can't break it loose with a 1/2" XL ratchet then I move over to 3/4" sq drive.

Cheater pipes just end up breaking tools. Eventually its a question of what's the weakest link, the yoke, the shear-pin or the nose of the square drive itself. Fix the other two and the square driver can't be oversized.

 

[Hermann-the-german]

Check out this breaker bar, sold on Amazon in Germany. Most probably a Chinese or Taiwan make, but extremely massive. It's warranted max torque is 1412 Nm that's 1041 lbf ft. As the lever is 600 mm (24") long, it's almost impossible to achieve this with a normal body weight.

 

[rsanter]

I have a snap on 24” comfort grip
I really like it and got it on a deal so what the heck.

I previously bought a 24” HF just to have and abuse.

Mmmmm, I think it’s test time
Connect the two together with the right square drive socket and pull on them opposed.
Nothing
So let’s clamp the HF one in my vise and I’ll pull on the snap on. Nothing
Let’s change position and pull all my weight plus some bounce. Nothing.

Really though I might have broken the HF one with what I was going to do, but no

 

[bubinga]

I purchased a 24 inch Tekton ratchet which is rated at 300 ft lbs instead of a breaker bar and found I use it much more than changing tires. It was about $50, cheaper than some breaker bars.

I just picked up that one.

 

[BreeStephany]

I bought a HF 'ICON' 3/4" breaker bar I keep in my truck for easier tire changes on the side of the road or mountain and have been pretty impressed with the build quality for something purchased at the hazard fraught. For my purposes, I think it will last forever, but probably wouldn't put up with the daily abuse of a heavy equipment mechanic.

It does feel nice in the hand, has been finished quite nicely and definitely has some weight to it.

I keep a 1/2" 18" 'ICON' breaker bar in my work trailer and in my work van with a set of cheap deep well impact sockets that I use for installing / uninstalling light poles, Also have a 1/2" Milwaukee V28 impact wrench for nut removal when they don't want to cooperate and are rusted up.

For 'everyday' use, I have a collection of vintage Williams and Snap-On breakers that I am pretty happy with.

Just my two cents.

 

[Shelbylex]

Unless you really need something professionally for daily use, look for good deals on yard sales
I have a whole assortment:
1/4 several SO ones, do not remember using them more than once, but I would not risk a ratchet on a rusty bolt
3/8 SO (useful for smaller jobs but at some point I got stuck doing rusty brakes on my car)
1/2 Craftsman =V= (my go to (before I got an SK - need to try this one), Long C Craftsman, Mustang (the last two came dirt cheap from yard sales - may be $1 one (do not remember). Mustang still needs to be cleaned...
...will pick up 3/4 one if I see one cheap on yard sale

 

[seber]

If you have a small car, carrying a 4-way is kind of a PITA whereas you can tuck a long breaker bar and a deep socket in the corner of a trunk.

Also, I have not ever found a 4-way that I could use on the wheels of my BMW because the "sockets" were too thick. Maybe make a 4-way with a 1/2" square drive on one arm rather than cast in "sockets"? That would be a cool tool actually. Make it folding so it doesn't take up any more space than a breaker bar, and then you could keep it in your trunk with a HF lug nut socket set.

How about this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XZK7RC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Greg5OH]

Titan 3/4 drive. Like 36” long, 50$

 

[Stillgottimefor1]

I have a Cornwell that has the drive offset so that if using a six point socket you can flip the tool around to get the best angle. Has really come in handy before. I have used a cheater pipe on it out of desperate necessity before and seen it flex quite a bit. I can walk up to the shop if someone wants the model number…