Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

[86turbodsl]

Picked these collets up at a local auction. 3J hardinge sized. They run ~ 100 new each and 30ish on epay. I have dupes to sell.
I paid about 2 ea. Now i need a collet chuck and finished lathe. The majority of the Namco parts have showed up. I need time to work on it though.

Edit: I checked the website. $140-175 new.

 

[1Garageman]

WOW, what super deal on those!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[86turbodsl]

Thanks. More **** i can sell if i lose my job...

 

[bimmer1980]

Are there additional developments on the job front? I'm sensing a gloom outlook.... I'm assuming you will be impacted by the "executive mandate"?

 

[86turbodsl]

You are correct. Its unknown what my company will be doing, but the job is in Ann Arbor, MI, which is known for being extremely leftist. People around here in general are nuts.
An example: I had to take the car to the dealer last fall for an oil change. They told me it would take a couple hours. Within walking distance is a nature area with foot paths. I figured i'd take a nice hike while waiting. Nice bright sunny day. I didn't wear a mask in the woods, outdoors. Sunlight is wonderful at killing any germs. While walking the paths, i ran into a guy twice, walking his dog, wearing a mask, outdoors, in the sun, who visibly recoiled when passing me on the path. Looked at me like i had 2 heads. People around here wear masks while driving around in their cars. Alone.

16 years at this company. We'll see what happens. Flashbangs' OSHA rule doesn't force companies to pay for testing, so it's expected the burden will be on employees. That could get outta hand fast.
I'm going to ramp up side gig work as fast as possible, and i have a nest egg that can carry me for a little while, but the noose is tightening on the non-rich choosing to abstain very quickly.

 

[racer-john]

Are there collet blocks available for them?

By the way NICE HAUL.

 

[86turbodsl]

racer, i didn't see any collet blocks at the sale. There was a 4th box of collets, it went up to ~41 dollars. I probably should have grabbed that one too. Me and another guy were playing angry bidder. I suppose with a lathe, it wouldn't be that hard to knock out a couple of collet blocks.

My bigger issue is i need a collet chuck for the lathe. I like the lever action Sjogrens, but they are pretty rare. Also considering an auto chuck, but anything i get will have to be used.

 

[racer-john]

If bought a set of collets and blocks, and then found a milling attachment for my 9 x 19 lathe, which accepts the blocks (blind luck?) so now I can mill 4 and six flats, with a little design and manufacturing will be able to mill keyway slots in shafting also.

 

[86turbodsl]

If bought a set of collets and blocks, and then found a milling attachment for my 9 x 19 lathe, which accepts the blocks (blind luck?) so now I can mill 4 and six flats, with a little design and manufacturing will be able to mill keyway slots in shafting also.

Nice. I've heard you can do everything a mill can with a lathe, with the right tooling.

 

[bimmer1980]

I haven't checked your lathe thread for awhile..... Any closer to being able to make some chips?

I know you have a lot of projects in the works............

 

[Strouty]

Nice. I've heard you can do everything a mill can with a lathe, with the right tooling.

I think that goes both ways, but I have always heard that you really want both tools as they compliment each other, also heard (and learned) that the tooling costs as much or more than the machine.

 

[86turbodsl]

I haven't checked your lathe thread for awhile..... Any closer to being able to make some chips?

I know you have a lot of projects in the works............

No, ive been collecting tooling as i see it cheap though. Ive been completely swamped with vehicle work and forklifts. And i need forklifts done so i can clear the shop floor enough to work on it.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Nice. I've heard you can do everything a mill can with a lathe, with the right tooling.

Yeah...

I'd rather have a ****** mill and ****** lathe than one nice lathe.

 

[bimmer1980]

Are you back to working on the forklift engine issue today? Driving the long tap in the hole????

 

[86turbodsl]

No, avoiding that mess. Just got done tacking the fuel tank together and mounting fuel sender.

 

[86turbodsl]

Working on the forklift again. Just realized that the space for the fuel tank on the Namco is slightly tapered.
Don't know if that was intentional or not, but i built the tank pieces square, so it had to get cut apart and
i'm hoping i can modify it slightly to make it squeeze in. It's always something. Nice out, but getting SWARMED with lady beetles. By the millions. Insanity.

 

[86turbodsl]

So think i have a build procedure for the tank that is going to work. Spent a little time getting sides welded on tonight, and left the ends off until i set the pickup tube depth up. The tank float is already setup and working. A nice guy sent me an operating manual for the Namco also.

 

[bimmer1980]

I must have missed it, why are you building a tank? Hydraulic fluid or gas for the Namco? I read above gas, but I'm missing the "why"...

Nice tig weld on that joint!

Candidly, if its for gas, I think I would have snagged a small plastic gas tank from a lawn mower and zip tied it to the inside of the forklift to get it up and running......

 

[86turbodsl]

Gasoline. There was a rotten lawnmower tank scabbed into it when i got it. It was full of rust. Since i had the steel already and needed to figure something out, i basically replicated the original 5 gallon tank. I know i know, mission creep... hey at least i'm not painting it!

There's other things getting work also. I bought a tiny alternator to replace the old generator. The wiring needs work and i got gauges for it also. The tank and muffler are the big holdups. I have parts to build a muffler also. The stock muffler looked like swiss cheese after a rat got at it. It goes underneath also, so
once those two are done, i'll fork it over to the shop and put it inside for the finishing off. That should get most of the floor cleaned up and allow me to bring some outdoor stuff inside to finish up.

 

[bimmer1980]

Interesting......

Just curious, do you have all the parts for the ignition project and the tools to fix the crankshaft threads?

I'm not trying to be difficult, just an attempt to look down the path so that your shop is in better shape this winter.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057INDZO/?tag=atomicindus08-20 -- Just a back up plan or food for thought......

I do see the value in getting this forklift up and running as quickly as possible.... helps you move stuff around so that you can get the oil burner up and running..... I would be selecting options to achieve these two objectives as the primary focus.....

But that's just my casual observation.....

 

[86turbodsl]

I have the tap and the extra long helicoils. That came in Friday. I'm a bit nervous about tapping the end of the crankshaft. If i mess it up, i'm dead in the water. I don't like freehand tapping. I normally chuck anything i tap in the bridgeport or lathe. At least to start the tap straight.
Normal modus operandi for this situation is avoid... sadly.

 

[Strouty]

That is just the engineer talking, go watch some Diesel Creek or Andrew Camarata and you will see what can be done to "make things work".

 

[kent_323is]

For reference, I boogered the threads on the crankshaft of a brand new engine when the puller went inside while pulling off a brand new pulley that was tight due to the new key being too tight.
I got the right size of tap, 7/16-20, and free hand re-tapped it, basically just cleaned up the threads, and then I was able to put a new bolt in with a large fender washer...it's basically only there as safety so the pulley can't slide off. Total time of about 10 mins.
You might be overthinking this... I'd go for trying to clean up the original threads first and run with it.
Winter is coming, and it's pretty close!

 

[bimmer1980]

I'll present another option........

The engine only runs a hydraulic pump, right??

Let's take away the dread of tapping the end of the crankshaft..... Re-engine it!! Harbor freight packaged engine. I bought a roughly 5hp for about $100 a few years ago for a brick saw. Slap it in, fill with oil and gas and give it a pull to start. It worked really well. Don't like Harbor freight? There are other suppliers of engines of all sorts and size. surely an option could be available.

OK, now we have a back up plan.....

Proceed to tap. The sooner you find out if this works or not, the better. If it works, great, onto the the next step to getting this thing running. If you fail, so be it, you tried. onto plan B.

 

[Strouty]

Now you are taking things too far Bimmer, can't use a HF engine in a Namco forklift, it just can't be done. This would need some sort of cool engine, something from an old German machine. I have no idea why I feel this way, but I do not agree with the new engine idea.

 

[86turbodsl]

That is just the engineer talking, go watch some Diesel Creek or Andrew Camarata and you will see what can be done to "make things work".

I do love diesel creek.

For reference, I boogered the threads on the crankshaft of a brand new engine when the puller went inside while pulling off a brand new pulley that was tight due to the new key being too tight.
I got the right size of tap, 7/16-20, and free hand re-tapped it, basically just cleaned up the threads, and then I was able to put a new bolt in with a large fender washer...it's basically only there as safety so the pulley can't slide off. Total time of about 10 mins.
You might be overthinking this... I'd go for trying to clean up the original threads first and run with it.
Winter is coming, and it's pretty close!

The existing threads are beyond the reach of a normal tap. The crankshaft nose is tapered, if there's no bolt, the flywheel will fall off. The recess for the flywheel is deep. If i get the angle off by much, the bolt won't go in the hole.

I'll present another option........

The engine only runs a hydraulic pump, right??

Let's take away the dread of tapping the end of the crankshaft..... Re-engine it!! Harbor freight packaged engine. I bought a roughly 5hp for about $100 a few years ago for a brick saw. Slap it in, fill with oil and gas and give it a pull to start. It worked really well. Don't like Harbor freight? There are other suppliers of engines of all sorts and size. surely an option could be available.

OK, now we have a back up plan.....

Proceed to tap. The sooner you find out if this works or not, the better. If it works, great, onto the the next step to getting this thing running. If you fail, so be it, you tried. onto plan B.

The engine drives a hydro pump and alternator. It's got a starter too. So that rules out a lot of cheap engine options. I don't want to pull open the front of the machine to pull start it. The stub shaft coming out the front of the engine is a big sucker. Like 1.5" dia.

Now you are taking things too far Bimmer, can't use a HF engine in a Namco forklift, it just can't be done. This would need some sort of cool engine, something from an old German machine. I have no idea why I feel this way, but I do not agree with the new engine idea.

I do have a yanmar diesel sitting around... nah, not indoors thanks. ;P

 

[kent_323is]

How deep are you talking? I did a quick search on MSC Direct, and they have extension taps.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/87152229

The deeper those threads are, the more it self-centers for you. Tap that sucker and move on!

 

[86turbodsl]

Yeah, i did find a deep tap online, but i figured i can use the helicoil kit also in future, so i went that way.

 

[86turbodsl]

Tonight on the way home from the office i stopped at carquest and picked up a 5/16" copper line and a hose barb.

these make up the fuel pickup. No fancy sock for me.



Started by welding the 1/4 in bung in place on the tank top.



Then i narrowed an end up to just under 6" wide, and tacked that on the end that's a little tight in the Namco. Edges of the tank sides got tacked just inside that edge.



then soldered up the copper line into the inside of the fitting. It's an oddball copper size, so i had to find somebody that carried it.



Pic of the line after cutting about 1.5 inch off. It's about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the tank, should be fine for eventual rust.



I have probably another 1-2 hrs of weld time to get it all snugged up. I'll test fit the tank before final weld in the morning.
Not blowing holes in all those edges is fun....

The end that's getting squeezed, the bottom is now hanging down from the end lower edge. I'll weld up the sides, then hammer forge the hanging edge down to meet the end part. then weld er up.

 

[Strouty]

You should buy an epoxy kit for the tank, it would be well worth the money, especially considering how much time you have in it. I used some evaporust first, but that steel looks pretty good.

 

[86turbodsl]

Good idea. Got a brand you like?

 

[1Garageman]

That is just the engineer talking, go watch some Diesel Creek or Andrew Camarata and you will see what can be done to "make things work".

Those are my two favorites to watch on YouTube!

 

[Strouty]

I think I used POR, it came from NAPA, definitely cheaper online but it was time sensitive on that project. As long as it is epoxy based, you should get a lot of life out of it. The kit I bought was like $125 and came with the cleaner, metal prep (etcher) and a quart of the epoxy. If you could find the etcher and the epoxy, it would be cheaper, just use your own degreaser. My tank was already rusty, so I also spent a couple days with evaporust (maybe 2 gallons). It came out very nice.

 

[86turbodsl]

I'm not finding anything close. This project is dragging out...

 

[Strouty]

I hear you, been there done that.

 

[86turbodsl]

The only epoxy tank sealer i can find is Caswell. They are mail order only.

 

[slodat]

Picked these collets up at a local auction. 3J hardinge sized. They run ~ 100 new each and 30ish on epay. I have dupes to sell.
I paid about 2 ea. Now i need a collet chuck and finished lathe. The majority of the Namco parts have showed up. I need time to work on it though.

Edit: I checked the website. $140-175 new.

Are they 2J collets? I have a few missing from my set if you have dupes - 25/32, 1-1/16, 1-3/16. I have a 3/4 if you need one.

 

[86turbodsl]

Are they 2J collets? I have a few missing from my set if you have dupes - 25/32, 1-1/16, 1-3/16. I have a 3/4 if you need one.

3J sorry.

 

[bimmer1980]

Candidly, if this forklift is mostly going to be inside, I would probably pass on the coating of the inside of the tank. If in doubt, just keep it full of fuel so there is less air to condense moisture out of.....

It's usually the wide temp swings and the high moisture air that will cause the condensation.

Poly tank???? hee hee...

Let's remember that the objective is to get a running forklift.... hopefully this year?????? ;-)

p.s. nice welding!!!!!!

 

[86turbodsl]

Thanks Bimmer. The forklift will be 100% inside. And heated floors that will be baking the tank too. Its probably more likely the gas gets cooked...

And thank you. I'm trying to learn TIG as fast as possible. It's going to be very very handy.