Thank you for the kind words. No heat involved in removing the handles, just ignorance and brute force. I clamped the shanks vertically in my Leg Vice with the handle sticking up from about 1/2" above the jaws, then levered them off by weighing down on the other end of a clawed prybar.
), which took over H.D. Smith's operations, but as I was just saying on a different thread, I would have to say that 7 out of every 10 I turn over are German. For whatever reason.Thank you. It really is a nice handle. It has been cleaned up, oiled and put into my "screwdriver" drawer to be used.If by "them" you mean that style of screwdriver, the American firm H.D. Smith, in Plantsville, Conn., patented it as the "Perfect Handle" screwdriver in the latter part of the 19th century, a term you will often see abbreviated as "PH" around here. There have been many imitators on these shores, including Irwin, which probably made the biggest dent in the market, Tobrin, Federal, and James J. Ryan (no, not the guy from the Tom Hanks movie!
Better than nice. Perfect!
Buddy of mine did back in 2006, but the pix have gone the way of the dodo and homepages.Mac.com. The web page is archived, but not the pix.
Thank you, pleased you like them. The branch fell off over 2 years ago so the logs had 3 summers seasoning in my barn, but that branch was half dead already before it fell. The wood is hard as iron I had to repeatedly re sharpen the chisel cutter on my lathe. I tried to shape rough blanks in preparation for turning the handles, it wouldn't split with an axe so I clamped the logs and shaped with a chainsaw, then had to repeatedly sharpen that!
that makes a lot of sense. I've got a bunch of half-shot phillips in the drawer, you've just about convinced me to punt most of them and just use a good bit holding screwdriver instead. Smart!
No, I don't know when Proto quit making wood handled screwdrivers.Hello all, this is my first post outside of the “introduce yours here” forum. I’m really into old chevys so I had to have this Bridgeport clutch head driver and really fell in love with this set of wood handle Proto screwdrivers. They don’t appear to have ever been used and don’t look very old, does anyone know when Proto stopped making the wood handle screwdrivers?
Too soon. Still love them, my dad had one when I was a kid. Just scored two in the last month.
That's what I did with one of mine which had a broken tip, and it works well. I dunno who made these wood handle ones, I suspect someone in Taiwan inspired by the MAC ones, but they did a good job as they've lasted and served me well for over 40 years in workshop, in my carry box on the floor of tractor cabs, side box of combine harvesters and in the back of my Land Rovers.
I meant to reply to and also quote this post in my post above.. oh well.. can't keep track of all the posts.. filled my 'mental capacity'! Anyway, I agree with LS, those hard philips and here we have hardened pozidrive too and they destroy screwdriver tips so best to use the disposable 1/4" hex bits. Actually some of those bits are very good quality and last well.
www.garagejournal.com
www.worthpoint.com
Here are a couple of matching Stanley egg beaters in my carpenter’s box.I still think that is a Stanley. They match this pic for shape, but not color. There were some egg beater drills with the OSU color scheme.
Stanley No. 2731 Wooden Handle Phillips Screwdriver 6 | #515066920
STANLEY No. 2731 Phillips 6 Screwdriver. Made in U.S.A. In good used condition with the metal having some blackening on it. The wooden handle has a few very small chips (see photos). FREE SHIPPING TO
Only a month since I last checked this thread. I agree with RTM & Don: Stanley. But I think maybe specifically Stanley Handyman. They messed around a lot with color-matching tools at the homeowner pricepoint, and gray/red was one of them.
You could always just use their correct names. The Plomb Tool Company, of Los Angeles, makers of mechanics tools mainly for the automotive and aviation industry, was spelled with an "o". Fayette R. Plumb, Inc., of Philadelphia, makers of striking tools, especially, hammers, hatchets, axes, and picks, but also blacksmithing tools, stoneworking tools, and some knives, is spelled with a "u." There's no real need to use the plumb-bob looking symbol or even a representative "v" (i.e., PLVMB), except maybe when discussing the difference between that branding in the mid 30's on and the early years, when the "o" was indeed just round (i.e., PLOMB). But rest assured, the easiest way is just Plomb and Plumb.
Cool! Thanks, I was wondering what the convention was.
Acck! It did get thru the first time.
Thank you for the explanation. It helps clear up the confusion in my mind.
If it's any consolation, and because it helps understand the rest of the history and the rest of the litigious story between these two companies, you are anything but alone in the confusion. In fact, the fear of that kind of confusion, is precisely why Plumb scuttled Plomb's attempt to trademark their name in 1926, and why, after a little more than two decades of Plomb using it like a trademark despite owning the imprimatur of an actual trademark, Plumb sued and forced them to use a unique name the Plomb Tool Company could legitimately trademark and use as a trademark, which was Proto. If you're interested, you could read more about that in the Plomb Lawsuit thread, which can most easily be found in the Index in the Sticky.
