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First welding helmet purchase advice.

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809

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Starting welding school in January. Will be doing on the job training work with company that does small-medium sized structural steel projects also, along with minor pipe work in the field. 95% of the training/work I'll be doing at this company will be MIG.

I want to buy a helmet that is up to spec, won't exceed $150 CAD, and last me AT LEAST 2 years. Once I start making money, I don't mind spending on a higher end 3M or Esab helmet.

I'm also drawn to low profile and lightweight helmet. I.e. those that make me look like Metroid Prime, not the boxy ones.

I came across this one and would like feedback on my choice: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09T644MXV/?tag=atomicindus04-20 It's $100 CAD. Which I appreciate.
 
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Half-fast eddie

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If you are doing ojt, why not ask one of the regular employees if you can borrow their helmets to try them out. Maybe even see if they have a used one for sale.
 
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sqznby

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You starting ojt before school? If so, I'd have sit down with your boss and see if he'd cover the cost for your first hood. Show him some dedication and you just might get lucky.

If lightweight is what you're looking for (which I feel is more important than anything, especially if you decide to do this as a full-time career and your neck will appreciate it as well), get this. By far the lightest hood I have ever used, strictly solar powered so you won't have to worry about batteries or it not working. Full coverage hood, not pancake. Auto but not adjustable but, you can get lenses for that. It's not fancy by any means, but it is a great first hood and very comfortable.
 
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mogandave

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Your job does not provide a helmet?

The guys at out plant seemed to favor the Speedglas helmets, they used to be comparatively inexpensive, at least before 3M acquired them. I have not bought any for years.

Whatever you get, make sure the consumables are readily available. If you're a production welder, and can't get new lens covers and headgear parts, it does not matter how cheap it was.
 
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mogandave

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809 said:
Starting welding school in January. Will be doing on the job training work with company that does small-medium sized structural steel projects also, along with minor pipe work in the field. 95% of the training/work I'll be doing at this company will be MIG.

I want to buy a helmet that is up to spec, won't exceed $150 CAD, and last me AT LEAST 2 years. Once I start making money, I don't mind spending on a higher end 3M or Esab helmet.

I'm also drawn to low profile and lightweight helmet. I.e. those that make me look like Metroid Prime, not the boxy ones.

I came across this one and would like feedback on my choice: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09T644MXV/?tag=atomicindus04-20 It's $100 CAD. Which I appreciate.
Click to expand...
Have a look here:

WeldingSupply

Secure on-line welding supplies
weldingsupply.com weldingsupply.com
 
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sqznby

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Another thing you could do is get in touch with your local welding supply shop that provides for your shop and see what they carry.
It's nice to know you can call them up or if they make weekly visits, you can grab whatcha need. Typically, they're the ones you're going to be relying on and if your shop is good to its welders, they cover the cost.
 
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mogandave

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sqznby said:
Another thing you could do is get in touch with your local welding supply shop that provides for your shop and see what they carry.
It's nice to know you can call them up or if they make weekly visits, you can grab whatcha need. Typically, they're the ones you're going to be relying on and if your shop is good to its welders, they cover the cost.
Click to expand...

This is a great recommendation.

Welding suppliers serving plants running a lot of MIG typically make little on equipment but make a ****-load on gas and consumables. The sales guys are often quite knowledgeable and can be a great asset.

Unless the OP has been told he need to bring a helmet, he should show up without one.
 
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danski0224

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809 said:
Starting welding school in January. Will be doing on the job training work with company that does small-medium sized structural steel projects also, along with minor pipe work in the field. 95% of the training/work I'll be doing at this company will be MIG.

I want to buy a helmet that is up to spec, won't exceed $150 CAD, and last me AT LEAST 2 years. Once I start making money, I don't mind spending on a higher end 3M or Esab helmet.

I'm also drawn to low profile and lightweight helmet. I.e. those that make me look like Metroid Prime, not the boxy ones.

I came across this one and would like feedback on my choice: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09T644MXV/?tag=atomicindus04-20 It's $100 CAD. Which I appreciate.
Click to expand...
Off brand hoods may be great for a hobbyist, but I wouldn't buy one for use on a job that is providing my income.

The one in your link also appears to require a proprietary front lens. Bad idea unless you want to stock up on a few.

There might also be issues with lcd switching speed or other things that are lesser than a name brand welding hood.

The lcd is probably made in China or Taiwan in a Lincoln, Miller, 3M or Speedglas hood, but the standards may be different (better) than the off brands.

Not worth risking your eyesight over.

Some plants may have welding hood requirements as part of PPE. May also need to wear it over a hard hat.

Having seen "company provided" welding hoods, I wouldn't want to use it either. They certainly don't keep up on maintenance (intentionally) and do you really want to share a hood with the rest of the crew? The pipefitters I work with bring their own.

The only place I have seen the "communal hood" is inside containment in a nuke. If you bring your own stuff in, it might not come out if it gets "dirty". Some will still bring in their own.

If you really want to buy one, you need to find out what the plant/site requirements are first.
 
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ronr80

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Well get a good one, with at least 4 sensors you only have 2 eyes, I bought a Jackson helmet a while back and it's great.
 
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no704

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Get a large window fixed glass with a gold filter. I have a Miller carbon fiber one that weighs almost nothing. Auto dark is good for tacking parts together but I don’t trust any of them.
 
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corn chip

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no704 said:
Get a large window fixed glass with a gold filter. I have a Miller carbon fiber one that weighs almost nothing. Auto dark is good for tacking parts together but I don’t trust any of them.
Click to expand...

lol how funny. the high end helmets such as speed glas have full uv/ir protection at all times, in every shade, even if the batteries are completely dead. do you even know how auto dark helmets work ?
 
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tarbellb

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Go fixed lens if you want to beat the hell out of it and get the old schoolers respect, and its cheap

If you go auto, and dont get one of the big name brands you better buy backup lens and such, nobody is going to have a lens for that hood...


Other suggestion is get no less then 4 sensors, iirc the cheapest Speedglas only has 2= getting flashed
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Check out Jacksop Insight line helmet- excellent helmet for a good price ($150), your lws will have consumables for sure


1665964096537.png
 
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corn chip

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for ordinary common welding situations ,2sensors is plenty. yes 4sensors is nice if your head is between pipes like a race car chassis builder ( perhaps a muffler shop ) , welding around corners or other precarious positions etc. but out in the open ,ordinarry situations, youll never be flashed with just 2.
my helmet at work has 3 but 2 would be sufficient for what i do. i only weld common position stuff and never been flashed once in the several years i been using it. get the right tool for the job is all it amounts to. if you need 4 then get a helmet with 4
 
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dogdog

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No experiences on brands, but OP's linked one with the HALO space looking hood is no good, if that outer protective plastic is not replaceable. buy something with a larger view but replaceable front facing lenses. I have the Jackson and the HF both are decent for my weekend warrior needs... the lenses still get scratchs etc and need replacing once a while, good thing they are standard size.. 5x7 or something... I would think if you are doing it professionally those lenses are common replacement part.. so your Original linked hood is probably not practical other than looking cool.. something to think about.

If you are on budget maybe this ? until you get some $$$ to buy a more expensive ones. and besides that, work site theft is a thing, not sure about the place you are going to be in ?



 
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txvwnut

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I’ve had a Jackson it was okay died after about 10 or so years. Replaced it with a cheapie Hobart from Northern Tool, was in the middle of a job and needed a hood. It’s been pretty decent and is getting close to 20 years old, I don’t use it much as I bought a Arcone Viper a few years. The Viper is fully adjustable with a grind mode and has been really good helmet. When it comes to welding helmets I say if it’s under $200 it’s not worth looking at.
 
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corn chip

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no704 said:
Yes I do, still doesn’t stop you from being flashed.
Click to expand...

i wont speak to every adf on the market except to say that some are far higher qaulity than others. heres speedglas very own words regarding their filter and if it fails to darken ( aka arc flash ). ive highlighted a couple areas

Screenshot_20221017-195721_Samsung Notes.jpg
 
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no704

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Not looking for an argument. Just my experience. For the $$ of a good automatic you can get 10 fixed shades. It’s not that much Trouble to flic it up n down
 
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corn chip

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so i wanted to try a experiment. its called the tv remote control trick where you press the power button and see if it triggers the lens. for the test i used a speedglas 9100xxi. it has 3 sensors . 2 in each bottom corner and one in the bottom center. its sensitivity settings are 1-5.
setting 1 : remote will not trigger the lens
setting 2: 10% of the time the lens will trigger
setting 3-5: 100% of the time the lens is triggered

i then covered all 3 sensors. actually i covered the entire bottom half of the lens. first with a piece of paper. then i switched to a piece of cardboard material. lastly i tried a kitchen oven mit.
setting 1: remote will not trigger the lens
setting 2: 1% (almost never) of the time the lens will trigger
setting 3: around 50% of the time it will trigger
setting 4: around 75% of the time it triggers
setting 5: nearly 100% of the time the lens triggers

i ever went a step further and covered the entire lens except for a very small sliver at the top. on setting 5 it still triggers nearly every time. how its detecting the remote signal with all the sensors coverd ,im not sure but it does it
 
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tarbellb

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corn chip said:
so i wanted to try a experiment. its called the tv remote control trick where you press the power button and see if it triggers the lens. for the test i used a speedglas 9100xxi. it has 3 sensors . 2 in each bottom corner and one in the bottom center. its sensitivity settings are 1-5.
setting 1 : remote will not trigger the lens
setting 2: 10% of the time the lens will trigger
setting 3-5: 100% of the time the lens is triggered

i then covered all 3 sensors. actually i covered the entire bottom half of the lens. first with a piece of paper. then i switched to a piece of cardboard material. lastly i tried a kitchen oven mit.
setting 1: remote will not trigger the lens
setting 2: 1% (almost never) of the time the lens will trigger
setting 3: around 50% of the time it will trigger
setting 4: around 75% of the time it triggers
setting 5: nearly 100% of the time the lens triggers

i ever went a step further and covered the entire lens except for a very small sliver at the top. on setting 5 it still triggers nearly every time. how its detecting the remote signal with all the sensors coverd ,im not sure but it does it
Click to expand...

Interesting

How does it trigger with a piece of steel in front of the lens
 
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Ohmthis

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I won’t tell you what to buy or how much your eyes are worth to you. I will say hi hat comfort and clarity are the two most important part of a hood you wear almost all day. A ****** headgear will feel terrible after a short time. If you can’t see it hat you are trying to weld…….you get the idea. If you can go to the LWS, try anything they have.
 
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mogandave

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Ohmthis said:
I won’t tell you what to buy or how much your eyes are worth to you. I will say hi hat comfort and clarity are the two most important part of a hood you wear almost all day. A ****** headgear will feel terrible after a short time. If you can’t see it hat you are trying to weld…….you get the idea. If you can go to the LWS, try anything they have.
Click to expand...

Yeah, a good headgear you can get parts for is critical.
 
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sqznby

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809 said:
Starting welding school in January. Will be doing on the job training work with company that does small-medium sized structural steel projects also, along with minor pipe work in the field. 95% of the training/work I'll be doing at this company will be MIG.

I want to buy a helmet that is up to spec, won't exceed $150 CAD, and last me AT LEAST 2 years. Once I start making money, I don't mind spending on a higher end 3M or Esab helmet.

I'm also drawn to low profile and lightweight helmet. I.e. those that make me look like Metroid Prime, not the boxy ones.

I came across this one and would like feedback on my choice: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B09T644MXV/?tag=atomicindus04-20 It's $100 CAD. Which I appreciate.
Click to expand...

Any updates?
 
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corn chip

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well this test puts it all to bed and no further investigation is needed far as im concearned. covered all but the top 1/2" with aluminum foil and proceded to weld some beads. you heard that right. i said welded. triggered 100% of the time in all sensitivity settings. ( setting 1 however did have about .5sec trigger delay after arc was struck , i didnt even expect it to trigger in setting 1 actually but it did ) .
also tried the same test with a optrel covered completely except the bottom 1/2". it triggered every time as well in all sensitivity settings. ive marked the sensor locations of both helmets

20221023_145911.jpg20221023_151148.jpg20221023_150055.jpg
 
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