THE DRIVE - PART 2
"Until you step into the unknown, you don't know what you're made of." - Roy T. Bennett.
Colorado welcomed me like the embrace of an old friend. Flat, rolling plains slowly marched upward to towering fortresses of rock and snow in the distance as the sun continued it's descent toward the horizon. Patches of snow turned into fields, and fields became a continuous blanket, smothering the scrub grasses. The road quality changed from marginal to good, and the traffic fell away behind me. Finally, a mountain state.
The year 2018 marked the last great adventure in my 2005 Nissan Frontier. It also marked my first time exploring Colorado by 4x4, and the biggest disaster to occur to me on a road trip. After exploring for a few days and visiting the famous Imogene Pass between Telluride and Ouray, my rear differential pinion bearing failed in a spectacular manner, allowing the pinion gear to slowly chew large chunks of metal away from the ring gear and carrier, all while providing a constantly changing pinion depth. Hell of a way to destroy a rear axle. The rest of the story is a blur of finding a tow truck to Montrose, finding out our goose was cooked, getting a rental car, and completely changing the trajectory of our trip over the next week. I was determined this visit, in 2023, would
not be a repeat of that performance.
Instead of taking the scenic route, I opted for a direct path from Taos to Fort Collins, as most of the trip would be in the dark and I didn't want to waste time driving through a pretty area that I couldn't even see. As such, I headed straight for Pueblo.
More podcasts were absorbed, feeling like the conversations were getting through more by osmosis than active listening. Minutes blurred into hours as I charged north. Off the plains finally, I pulled into Fort Garland and turned right, aiming straight for the more mountainous terrain of La Veta Pass. The Land Cruiser came to life around me in this environment, almost as though it was longing for the adventure found in the pines and rocks of these lower foothills. The 5.7l engine churned happily as it climbed, the steering felt alive and nimble as I navigated the bends in the road leading to the pass. Snow, which had kept it's distance until this point, crept onto the road until covering it in fits and starts as the altitude rose. Slippery environments are where the 4x4 system of the Land Cruiser really shines though. Rather than a simple transfer case and locking hub system, the Land Cruiser utilizes a user-lockable Torsen limited slip center differential feeding power to all four wheels at once, making it more of a hybrid all wheel drive than what you typically find in the US. This system does a remarkable job of providing stability when the going gets greasy because of the differential wheel speed it allows for. That wheel speed is simultaneously kept in check by the center diff and the frankly brilliant traction control system. A small amount of slip, and you can feel the entire vehicle working to bring the nose and tail back where they belong. It's an incredibly solid and reassuring feeling, built upon the existing solidity of such a well-built vehicle.
I stopped to relieve myself and once again stare at the truck, looking absolutely at home in the snowy mountain environment. In that moment I could feel this relationship solidifying, the start of something special just making itself known. Sure, I hated the wheels and the roof box was worn out and the roof bars were noisy and shaky. But the truck itself felt so incredibly solid and eager. It felt as though it was longing to escape the dreariness of Texas into the wilds and see new places for itself, not just for me. It felt like the Land Cruiser was sharing my incurable wanderlust. What a great thing, because I can only dream about what is in store for this truck.
Dropping off La Veta Pass, I rejoined the plains along the Rocky Mountain Front and turned north along I25, hitting Pueblo around dusk. From there, feeling impressed with the 21mpg I had averaged since leaving Taos, I pointed the Cruiser towards the hive of activity that is Denver.
Colorado is a curious state in my estimation. For such a mountainous and rugged state, it has been somewhat overrun by an enormous amount of people and infrastructure in the last 25 years. Despite this, the mountains are still beautiful and captivating, and they still somehow feel remote and wild. Drop off the mountains to the east though, and it feels as though you've arrived at the cradle of civilization. Once you enter the clutches of city life at the southern tip of Colorado Springs, it's non-stop until the northern border with Wyoming.
Despite this urban encroachment into such wild beauty, I feel that the Denver area is still beautiful. The mountains to the west are a constant reminder of where you are and the beauty of the natural world, while the city they've carved out is for the most part clean and attractive. It feels modern, with every available amenity you could ask for, while still providing a backdrop unique to the mountain west of the United States. For a while I wanted to live in the Denver area, but was overwhelmed by my love for Montana and stayed put. Despite that, I'll always love coming back down to the Mile High City. Unfortunately I couldn't stop to enjoy it for a bit as I was in a dash north to beat the weather.
My original plan was to camp somewhere north of Boulder, maybe in the vicinity of Fort Collins, somewhere out of the way in the woods and mountains of Colorado where I could put the backcountry camping plans with the Cruiser to the test. As I was trekking north though, I grew more an more concerned by the biggest question mark of the trip: Wyoming.
Wyoming in the winter is it's own beast. Western mountain ranges plunge frigid katabatic winds across open eastern plains of nothingness, with absolutely nothing to stop them save for the folds of the landscape. Unabated, the winds kick up incredible flurries of snow and ice, often making travel dangerous, if not impossible. Often, roads between the northern half and southern half of the state are cut off completely, leaving locals and travelers alike stranded until the storm abates and the state's meager resources can be put into action to clean the roads of powder. The roads were getting worse as a system of storms inched westward. I knew that if I stayed in Colorado, there was a chance I wouldn't be able to get home without a major detour or, at worst, another day of travel. Being a denizen of southern Montana, I know all too well the challenges of crossing Wyoming during a winter storm.
With this in mind, I pulled to a stop outside a Chick-fil-A in Castle Rock. As I ate my chicken sandwich, I checked the road reports and got detailed intel from a friend living in the state. It looked like I was in for snow-covered but passable roads, with black ice and blowing snow the only hazards thus far. I formulated a bit of a plan: I'd push past Fort Collins, past Cheyenne, and into central Wyoming as far as I could that night to beat any road closures, then push on as needed during the day. I jumped back in the Land Cruiser, fueled up, and wove my way out of Castle Rock, struck by what a nice-looking place it was. I'd never been there, but having seen it for myself now, I was definitely planning on returning.
From the clean, relative calm of Castle Rock I sped north into the outskirts of Denver, where I was once again reminded that in big cities, speed limits are merely a suggestion and defensive aggression is the order of the day. Jockeying across five lanes of traffic in the biggest city in this part of the country, I was once again struck by how nice a city Denver is. Despite being jam packed, busy, and growing faster than it can handle, Denver has managed to remain a nice place to be.
Modern buildings, huge car lots, and a football stadium rose up all around me as I was welcomed to the city. Unable to stop, I continued on undeterred into the sleepier relaxation of Fort Collins. Jordan Peterson rationally explained subject after subject through the radio as I cruised north, determining that I was still in good shape for a long, rough push into cowboy country.
Finally, I crossed the border into Wyoming and shortly thereafter pulled off at a truck stop just south of Cheyenne. I fueled up the thirsty Land Cruiser and gathered some additional supplies: more water, jerky, an energy bar, and two coffee drinks. One was to keep me going that night, the other was for the following morning when I woke up, whenever and wherever that happened to be. My plan began to take a more definite shape: I'd fuel up at every major settlement, ensuring I'd never be below 3/4s of a tank for spending the night in the cold weather or, worse, I got stuck and needed the fuel to extricate myself or keep warm until being rescued. My goal would be to get north of Wheatland, where I could find some public chunk of land to sleep on and continue on early in the morning.
Shortly after driving out of Cheyenne, classic Wyoming began to reveal itself, first with blowing wind, then with drifting snow, then black ice. The Land Cruiser marched on, undeterred, as though it was just as eager to meet it's new home as I was to get it there. Not a single slip, slide, or even a bit of tire spin occurred. The truck was planted and firm, as though on rails. The roads deteriorated further.
Not to be beaten though, I pushed on as blowing snow turned into light snowfall blowing out of the east. Light snowfall turned to heavy snowflakes as the wind picked up, traffic all but disappeared, and the roads worsened. The needle on my speedometer steadily fell from 75 to 70, then 60, then 55. Progress across the state turned agonizing. More podcasts distracted me from the ardor as the road developed a thin layer of snow, then nearly an inch.
Eventually, around 10:30 PM, I pulled into Wheatland as the snowfall became thick with malicious intent. Once again I filled the truck to the brim, staying cautious for the journey ahead.
Again pushing north away from the lights of more civilized and sane people, I braved roads that were only getting worse. My plan to sleep near Wheatland was more or less abandoned as I saw the weather get worse. I was still wide awake and capable enough to continue, so my next goal was to get as far as Glendo, maybe Douglas, before calling it a night. Somehow, the roads improved slightly just north of Wheatland, and I was buoyed by the thought, thinking maybe I could easily make Douglas and stay there. Once past Glendo, though, the hammer fell.
Nearly an inch or snow became two, then three, with the occasional drift spanning the full width of the road. I slowed to 50, then 45. The weather closed in around me with a thick pall of snow falling from the sky. The temperature outside plummeted from 45 near Denver to 10 degrees near Glendo. Progress was sketchy, to say the least. At some points, the only reference point I had was the markers on either side of the road, aptly made taller in this part of the state by sticks, in order for plows to locate the tarmac. The road climbed past Douglas, where the tracks of those who had gone before me all but disappeared, trimmed down to a single set of tracks from an 18-wheeler.
Knowing the weather was like this, I thought staying in this area would be foolhardy, so I resolved to push further to a new goal: Casper.
The area between Douglas and Casper is a bit of a blur, both metaphorically and realistically speaking. I remember only the constant snowfall and watching the road markers as Dr. Peterson calmly spoke in my ears and the Land Cruiser stoically marched on under me. The world outside became increasingly hostile, the temperature dropping below zero and the snow only getting more intense. Again, not a single sign of stepping out on the part of the new truck. No misbehavior whatsoever. Just confidence and solidity.
My exhaustion was starting to leak through the surface. My eyes burned.
Blissfully, Casper appeared out of the gloom ahead of me. Not a soul was out on the interstate or on the roads in town. It was as though a switch had been thrown and everything stood still. I pulled off the interstate for another fast fuel up and again took leave of my senses as I thought of pushing onward. The outskirt town of Bar Nunn looked to have a decent place to stop, and I was not wanting to be caught by the storm and stranded. Roads to the west were impassable, and backtracking to the east would be such an enormous detour as to take an impossibly long time.
Instead of being sensible, I plowed on into the darkness.
I realized shortly after passing Bar Nunn that I was pushing too hard and things weren't showing any signs of improvement. In fact, the Land Cruiser was now dutifully pushing through four inches of snow on the road. Without complaint, it must be noted, but bad conditions nonetheless. I was on the verge of calling it when I came up behind a semi truck, chugging along at no more than 30 miles an hour outside Antelope Hills. This sudden roadblock was all the push I needed to get me to stop.
Shortly after I pulled up behind the semi, a parking area appeared off either side of I25. I pulled off amid a bevy of trucks tucked in for the night, found an open spot between two, and parked. Without leaving the truck, I pulled off my sweater, turned the lights off, set the climate control for 65, grabbed a water bottle, and crawled into my bed, now sporting a thick horsehair blanket thanks to a roadside curio shop I had stopped at earlier that day while in New Mexico. Warm, and with the soft woosh of wind around me, I collapsed into a deep unconsciousness just after 2:30 in the morning.
I awoke to a world covered in ice.
At 7 AM, the rushing sound of a semi driving past stirred me from my black sleep and back into the land of the living. I unceremoniously relieved myself, literally ******* into the wind as I clung to the doorframe of my truck. I changed clothes, put on a warm hat, slammed the coffee I had purchased the night before, threw back a handful of trail mix, and headed north once more.
Rejoining the road, I discovered conditions had improved dramatically. Tire tracks were visible ahead of me and the wind had died to merely gale force. I once again turned on my podcasts and held on for the very long, but completely unremarkable, drive to Buffalo, then on to Sheridan.
I really do wish I had more to say about this part of the drive. It was uneventful, though dreadful.
I pulled off the interstate one final time at Sheridan, where I fueled up and stopped at a local coffee kiosk, where I checked in with Garage Journal and Instagram. The barista asked me what I was up to, and I informed her I was returning home to Billings. With a surprised look, she wished me luck on my journey home. I thanked her with a 200% tip and hit the road again.
Not long after Sheridan spans the border with Montana. The road sign welcoming me home was met with a whoop and a feeling of exhilaration for completing such an arduous journey. I did it. I was home. At least, almost.
Curiously, the roads almost immediately cleared up, the skies parted, and the stormy weather abated. It was as though Big Sky Country was giving me a warm welcome back to my home. It felt incredible that after just 36 hours, I had traveled from downtown Dallas to the border with Montana. I had road construction, detours, traffic, and horrific weather. I learned a lot, and got time to myself. I was happy with the journey, and even happier with my purchase.
The new Land Cruiser had been broken in in style, and proved itself incredibly worthy of the position it is to hold in my life. I pulled into my workshop, got out, and stared, watching the thin layer of snow slip off and onto the floor. What a perfect beginning to our story. I cannot wait to watch it unfold.
