Recent content by Andy S

Ask for the manufacturers MSDS. ( Material saftey data sheets ) But like fuzzy said.. dont eat it, and dont get it on anything you like. Wear nitrile gloves.

Lol, i meant anything like this. State your opinion about it, look good? Hate it?

The color product itself is not epoxy hard, but its not soft, its actually not really that thick. It would be as good as the primer and clear coat you use on it. A good 100% solids epoxy top coat would make it fine for a garage. It has gone down in houses, commercial buildings, design centers...

Depends what you put over it as a clear. 100% solids epoxy is tough and durable enough, so yes it would be fine in a garage. Polyaspartics dont get as hard as epoxy does, so you never know. The color itself is very thin, but it doesnt get as had as epoxy either.

Putting the epoxy thicker wont fix the out gassing. Use a water based epoxy for a primer, it will help a lot. If you still have bubbles after the first coat of 100%, sand them, fill with caulk, sand again, then put your top coat of 100% on when everything is dry. Yes it is normal for that to...

Basically colored water is what it feels like. You can do marbled floors like this, or wood grain, a lot of differant patterns. These floors are so fun to put down because its always a differant floor. Basically its a 2-3 day system, depending how you prep it. For this pic i did a grind, prime...

Very easy to install too. Clear epoxy or polyaspartic for clear top coat.

Lol, 'Bob's private labeling from one of the thousands of epoxy companies out there. Use name brand from the source, it will save you money and give you access to better tech support. Use Wolverine if thats what you wanted in the first place. Just because 'Bob' says its equal doesnt mean anything.

Thats the problem with Behr and all those products alike. They are garbage. You would be better off putting down some good epoxy or polyaspartic ( my fav ) Like Mlynch said, 100% solids, i would go for a solvent based. You want sand your floor with a side by side machine, but you would be better...

Well there is obviously stress at that point of the slab. It is going to crack out more in the future, about 90% sure. Use something that has a good flexural strength to move with the concrete, a good polyurea joint fill would be good. One question... why use Rustoleum water based epoxy...

I have never heard of a single component polyurea.... iv heard of a single component polyaspartic urthane hybrid thats has good bond. You are better off using a concrete sealer. I cut my polyaspartic back 50% with acetone and put a single coat on diamond ground concrete.... damn is all i have...

Sherman Williams? They are a pretty big paint company with a lot of coating products. Chemical companies would rather sell chemicals than a finished product, like Bayer Chemical. There are big players producing them already, you just might not have heard of them. And Commercial/Industrial...

No i am in Phoenix

I was wondering what floor was taking you guys so long up north. That looks amazing, damn. I am glad i wasnt a part of that, my head hurts already just thinking of the process to do that haha. Good job man. Ford symbol might have been better !!!

Well Wolverine was talking about a hydronated (sp?) epoxy that has better UV resistance, not 100% but better. But that is the nature of the beast we call epoxy, sun is its kryptonite.... and other things. Polyaspartic is the future... its really not that expensive, unless you find a company...