Recent content by ibilisi

Well, yes and no. If I gave up that vertical space then I could put a deep shelf above/below the compressor. My house is severely storage challenged and with two young boys and all their toys, plus two cars so on... any space saved is space earned. But, it is true, I might have to step down...

Hey all. I'm looking for a decently high CFM compressor to use in my somewhat space constrained garage. I'm planning on restoring two vehicles and I'll needs something that can soda/sand blast, paint and chisel, etc. I don't mind waiting a bit for the tank to reload, these are small cars and...

I guess I should be more clear, I meant to say furring if that helps at all. I couldn't find reference to that anywhere in code. I had planned for the furring to attach to the bottom top plate but if an issue I could go below that right at the wall and make a "shoe" for the LVL. I don't mind...

Right below is a 18x4 LVL so that ***** (partially over office in adjoining basement). Since I am running MC, I could create a "service" cavity for the cable by installing a 2x2 into the first of the doubled top plate. That would give me the ability to get around the LVL without boring that...

Hey all, I just am looking for a sanity check on my rough electrical plan. I have a 4 7.5x2.5e LVL supported by triple 2x6 as per engineer's plan. I am planning on running 2x 12/3 MC cables, one for lighting, one for outlets. I know that IBC R602.6 allows for boring provided that the diameter...

Hmmm.... I actually hadn't thought of this. I could go new 200amp service drop to attached garage from the overhead lines. Then run 2-2-2-4 to the old panel with say 90 amp breaker. That would be a cleaner install.

Sorry- I have two subpanels. One subpanel is going to be on the interior wall of addition. One inside the attached garage. The issue with the updating the "old" 100 amp service is that the city may require me to bring whole house wiring up to current code (House built 1931, lath...

Hey all, I have done a bunch of searching but I thought I'd throw this out because it is a bit different. I just put on an addition and replaced my attached garage. I currently have 100Amp service and I'm going to do an upgrade to 200amp. My thought is to leave my current 100Amp panel...

Haha, Thanks for the comments all. That is why I posted here. I must admit there is a bit of a back-story. My contractor decided to walk off the job after sizing several rough openings not to plan spec, set the garage footing a foot higher than spec, used fasteners that had less than 1/4"...

Yeah, the subfloor is glued to the top of the joist. If there are no structural issues from leaving it I guess that is what I'll do. I tried to get a claw up here to pull nails, just not a lot of room to work with.

Hey all, I was looking at the floor joists above my "shop" area and I noticed that the contractor installed one of them clearly out of square. I am wondering if it is going to be worth it to remove the nails and straighten the joist/hangers and re-nail (as in will it cause structural issues...

Nice! I'm (hopefully) going to have around the same amount of space and I now believe I can store my three cars and scooter in there. Is that Civic in the corner on dollies?

Now that looks great! Looks like your patience and ethic paid off. The grinder is a great (albiet dusty) idea! I personally like the slightly rough look and with the sealer, it shouldn't get "more rough" over time. :thumbup:

Hey all, thanks for the thoughts. I will have some more pictures up in a bit. But I do agree this is an involved project. I do plan on tearing down the second stall of the garage, the slab, the deck (gone) and roof. The first stall's foundation is tied into the house's foundation and is...

Updated with some "design" information. Hope anyone could chime in with thoughts!