Recent content by Netman

I cannot lower it with my body weight when it gets to that position. If I raise it to the full up position and give it the extra 6-8 pumps then release the handle, it will go down. If I stop part way down and release it right away, it continues to go down. However, if I leave for a few seconds...

I have an older floor jack that I'm having issues with and thought I'd see if it's worth repairing or tossing it. When I turn the handle clockwise and pump the jack, it goes up no problem at all. When I turn the handle counter clockwise it doesn't lower, however if I keep pumping it a half dozen...

Kind of figured it was to do with a hitting it issue. Where it’s being mounted would be very unlikely it would ever get hit, you’d have to try to hit it. My concern really, is if there were a fire would the insurance company find a way to pass blame on mounting height.

My son has a small 22’ x 22’ garage that we are working on to wire, insulate and heat to make it useable in the winter months. The ceiling height is low at just over 8.5’. He’s picked up one of the Mr. Heater gas unit heaters that should be more than enough to heat the area. The instructions...

Just curious why you'd have 3 1/2" of slope over the length of a lift.

Where are you getting the bridge jacks? I'm in Canada and the jacks cost close to or more than half the cost of the lift itself.

I've been back and forth on the 2 vs.4 post lift. I'm kind of leaning toward the 4 post because of the extra storage on top. I can park my boat up there for the winter instead of doing the usual take the motor off and flip the boat over on the trailer every fall. The only dilemma I really have...

Some have a plastic lever between the slides that lifts up to break them free, some have a small clip on the bottom that you squeeze and then lift the drawer to break away and others just require a quick pull on the drawer when all the way out to separate.

Got it figured out. It made no mention of the plug in the relocation kit but I found it in the manual last night. Seems to be fine now.

An outswing door will use nrp hinges and a completely different sill configuration. An outswing unit has weatherstrip on the sill like used on the jamb that the door shuts up against, where as an inswing usually has sweep on the bottom of the door.

It's a Keep Rite model N9MSB. No I didn't remove anything other than the smaller hoses just to rotate it and reinstalled those. The one that now leaks water would have been the original drain into the trap but is now totally open and not covered. In its original position the trap covered this...

When I installed my furnace horizontally from the ceiling I was given a horizontal installation kit to reposition the condensate trap. This basically takes the trap and rotates it 90 degrees so the condensate will now drain out from what is now the bottom of the furnace. I have done this and...

If you could do that, I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

This has been mentioned but I have 4' concrete perimeter frost wall. I'm worried what may happen long term with all that water draining under my slab with essentially nowhere to go. With my luck I will end up with a sink hole in the middle of my shop. Maybe I'm being a little too paranoid, not sure.

How far is the hose protruding past the outside wall? Is the pump located below the exit point on the wall so the water left in the line drains back into the pump? Do you have a picture of your set up? This sounds like the way I'd like to go if possible.