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So you'd use a wider sill plate than bottom plate?

I have at least 3 per section, so I should be good. I think I'll take a chance, as long as I can be assured it can be fixed after the wall is up if there's an issue - e.g. strong tie or drill through plate and into concrete to insert a missing bolt

IRC says this: that reads to me absolutely as each section of a joined plate; otherwise; it would say per wall or something, no?

Hi All Just ordered my lumber for 22x24 garage build. My sill plates are PT 2x4, but longest I could get locally was 20', so i have to join them on two walls. I know current IRC requires the end of each piece to be bolted withing 3.5 to 12 inches of the end and a min of 2 bolts per section...

I know this is an old post, but if you do it like this (sill plate plus botton plate. what do you do with the bottom plate where it hits the bolts? Won't the framing inspection need to see the sill bolts too?

Thanks a lot Kevin!

Nope, can't find any evidence of past or impending quakes in Chicago http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

Thanks. I was planning to use the diamond ones, but that wouldn't allow me to sheathe the walls first (as I assume these have to go under sheathing). Will try and find ones that attach from the inside.

That is nice. If I were a contractor, I'd buy one in a heartbeat. Will slum it with my palm nailer

Thanks Bill Yes they are sheer walls. but are 4' each side, which normally requires no extra handling. IIRC you need 4' sheathing at each corner and then every 25'. Anyway will call him in next few days. Thanks for the pic too, haven;t see that one before

When you say new "nailer", are you referring to a nail gun or a plate/tie? That kinda makes sense. from what I've read, if you're really building for hurricanes you need hurricane ties from stud to sill plate so that the wind force is transferred all the way to the foundation.

Thanks! i do have a palm nailer

Yeah he already told me that he wants to inspect nailing patterns on sheathing

That makes sense!

Thanks

Main reason I went with 24" OC is that the trusses have to be over the studs, so 16" oc would have meant another 5 trusses too, or would have to 16" AND 24" oc. Given there's one story, no attic load, and it's fully sheathed in 1/2-inch ply, I reckoned 24' oc would suffice

Thanks zeke, so it doesn't wrap around the top plate, just wraps over it 3.5 inches, kind of like an upside down "L"? Regards mark

Would love to make it 10' (even 12'), but village rules says 1 story and max to top of gutter or eve can't be more than 10' above grade and peak of roof can't be more than 15' Siding has to be 6" above grade, so add double top plate gets me to 9". 10' studs would take me way above the allowable...

Maybe it was R13? (been a few years since I did it) My stem walls are 5-inches (I think). My permit and plans have all been approved. I'm assuming I'd have to resubmit if I changed it (assuming the stem wall was wide enough) I need to get it build before winter

Too late for that, slab (with stem walls has been poured). My last garage was 2x4 with R19 (IIRC) and it wasn't too bad.