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Could be you put it on too thick; sealer is a case where more is not always better.

Cure and seal products are as permanent as any sealer. You will not need to strip it unless you opt for epoxy, paint or similar.

Epoxy will not stand up to UV.

If you're certain you will move in three years, building a garage may not make financial sense. Check with local real estate agents to learn if the garage will add enough value to the house to cover the cost of building the garage. You might be better to rent a shop for three years, or maybe...

I don't know about your area, but around here I could get you one for $300.00/day.

Any drain you install should be installed in concrete, meaning that you cut/dig out 4-6" on both sides and the bottom of the drain, and pour cement around the drain. If you don't do this, cars driving over the drain will eventually break it. The small drain that was mentioned as being around...

A properly installed quality paver will more than support your vehicles. Good pavers have a p.s.i. rating equal to concrete. Many commercial parking lots and drives are being done in pavers to help control rain run-off. As for the base, start with what we call "crusher" or "quarry waste."...

There are products available for your problem that shouldn't require grinding. Ardex CD (Concrete Dressing) and Level Layer III by Dayton come to mind. Even if you decide to cover it with fresh concrete, something like Weldcrete from Larsen will bond new to old, if the old is solid. If the...

Maybe the sealer was applied too thick in some areas; sealer is one thing where more may not be better. If that is the case, it will probably flake off, eventually. There are mechanical strippers as mentioned, and citrus based cleaners (require scrubbing). Not fun no matter which way you go.

Is there any moisture on or under your floor? Newer water-based sealers look milky until they dry, and will blush when they get wet again. If he used a water based sealer, then you have a moisture problem, not a sealer problem. Was a vapor barrier used?

Do not use acid. Acid weakens the top of the concrete, leading to dusting and popping. You have two possible options; chemical or mechanical. The concrete specialty companies have come up with citrus-based cleaners that are said to remove sealers with a little help by scrubbing. This is a...

No matter what you fill cracks with, if the base material continues to move, the filler will crack. The exception is epoxy adhesive; then the epoxy will hold, and the concrete will crack. If you are sure the floor is done moving, there are many suitable patching products. I would skip the...

You are correct, that is a power screed. As it screeds, it vibrates. The board is actually pretty light weight for its size.

There are semi-ridgid joint fillers available, usually a polyurea product. They are used in industrial applications so forklifts and carts can roll smoothly across them, and the edges don't chip due to wheel impacts. They have some flexibility to allow for slab movement. I don't know if epoxy...

I'm a big fan of Vinyl fences. Never rust, rot, or need painting. Most come with a lifetime warranty, and they're easy to stick back together if you should happen to do something stupid (say, wheelie your lawn tractor into the fence) and prefer to fix it yourself before anyone finds out.

There are semi-ridgid joint fillers available; Pacific Polymers, Euclid (Euco 700, I think) and PolyGranite are some of them.

I'd think the first step would be to determine why a parked car is emitting fumes.

Check your phonebook for concrete supplies. There are too many products to list, all better than Thompson's. The people there can suggest something. If solvent -based sealers are still allowed in your area, use one of them. Water-based products can look milky when they get wet. Be careful...

I would use both a vapor barrier and insulation. A true vapor barrier is at least 10 mils thick, could be up to 15 mils. Anything less is more likely to tear when weight smashes it into the stone base. You should also use polyethelene tape to seal the 6 inch overlapped edges, not duct tape...