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Jim, I know the one like I posted a picture of above will be too high, but if one could be had that was lower and could extend to the middle of the chassis (from the rear likely), then in one lifting motion, it could be picked completely off the ground. Looks like I will need to just make one...

They are nice, but $500+ is a bit too pricey for me...

What I am looking for is something like the picture below, but just a manual version (no hydraulics, just body weight and upper body strength to pull up the load.) Kinda like the sort of thing they use for lifting the back end of a IRL or F1 car, but with a load pad like this one: I could...

Yeah, do some ****-welds and then cut through the metal with a band saw perpendicular to the weld bead. That will give you a good indication of whether you are getting good penetration. Also, make sure the parent metal is clean. Buff/grind away surface rust and then wipe clean with a solvent...

I usually put 2-3 pans under the engine (the black concrete mixing ones from HD work pretty nicely). They will catch 90% of the fallout. I will use a degreaser (like Simple Green etc) and spray that on in concentrated form, let it soak for 15 minutes, then reapply and leave for another 15...

Well, I found a really nice used 1999 Carson 4x8 utility. Perfect condition. Been garaged it's whole life, used very little, so it looks brand new.

That was wayyyy cool!! Best thing I ever seen done with a Chrysler MiniVan!!:beer: :thumbup: :lol_hitti :evil:

My 55 Pontiac leaks like a sieve! I will usually get a box (like what you would get soda/beer cans in (lip is about 2" high), and line it with foil, then throw a rag/paper towel in it to soak up the oil drips. Then I just slide that under the car. The box/pan is cheap enough to throw away...

I just picked up my Kart over the weekend (unused/new CRG Road Rebel, 2005). I pick up my kid's (Kid Kart) next week sometime. I will be running TaG (Rotax). Here are some pics: The chassis is new, but the plastic, tires/rims, and motor are 1 season old.

I appears from the 'exploded diagram' on the web site that the main part of the trailer is a welded assembly with only ancillary stuff bolted on. I was planning to build my own using 3500lb single torsion axle, but the prices for that kit trailer are darn good.... Tim

I did a reverse flush (power flush) to my L31 Vortec to get rid of all traces of DexCool. Then I refilled with distilled water and green coolant. Here is a good article on power flushing. I used it and it worked great. http://www.pacificp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1202&highlight=radiator+flush

Anyone had any direct, indirect, heresay or other experience with this trailer manufacturer. http://www.redtrailers.com/TrailersLandscapingLarge.asp I was debating whether or not to buy one of the HF trailers, but I just don't have enough of a comfort level with them. I will be hauling 2...

http://eartheasy.com/live_natwasp_control.htm http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG3732.html http://www.pestproducts.com/pests/paperwasp.htm

If they are western Yellow jackets they will be very aggressive. If you swat at them, they will attack for sure. It is really hard not to, and to just stand still (don't ask me how I know). They also release a scent when aggitated which will make the nest swarm. A very effective way to...

No real method to what I put where, only that I put the heavier stuff as low down as possible so that the tool box isn't top heavy...makes it easier to roll around and less likely to fall over in an earthquake.

I have been thinking about one just like Mark's, but I was thinking of using aluminum. I was at the steel yard last week and saw lots of pieces of 1/2" to 3/4" thick aluminum off-cuts. I was going to polish and buff the blocks of aluminum and then use aluminum dowls just like what was done...

I've never had good luck with JB. I'll give it a shot though...Hell, I've tried just about everything else. Most suff seems to hold for a while, then starts leaking....I'm thinking that the different rates of expansion is breaking the seal. I guess if all else fails I can tap the hole and put...

Well, I spent a few hours today replacing the infamous intake gaskets on my 71 C20 (with 99 Suburban L31 engine/trans). I did everything by the book. Everything worked out well....EXCEPT....when removing the rubber water line from the front of the manifold, I managed to twist the steel water...

I wonder where the slots are for the Quarters! :lol_hitti

Aren't those 125s liquid cooled?