Search results

On mine, I put the regulator after the flex (mounted to the wall) and ran the flex higher so that it would drain back into the tank as I have an automatic drain on the tank.

My cousin’s husband got two metal buildings - 100’ x 300’ or larger, I can’t remember exact dimensions - for free for disassembling and removing them. Someone had leased the property, put them up, used them for a few years, and then stopped paying rent to the property owner. The property owner...

I really doubt that they’re going to accept those “plans.” There isn’t any of the information that a plan reviewer would typically be looking for - framing information, reinforcing, construction details, etc. They’re just some pictures with some dimensions.

Another thing to check out in that area is The Green Dragon.

Lights and electric motors don’t really benefit from surge protection - within reason. A huge surge is going to do bad things. But if you’re plugging anything electronic in - anything from a radio to computer or such - then it is a benefit.

Not really. You can have two roof trusses, both made out of 2x4s and splice plates, and one will give you a 10psf dead load while the other will give you 50psf dead load. If you’re designing with rafters, it is more straightforward - based primarily on size of the rafter and the slope of the...

If it was mounted on the left side, it could be mounted the proper direction and still have access to the limit switches. By mounting it on the right, he had to reverse the direction of the unit to have access to the limit switches.

I know in the late 90’s we were doing a lot of roof inspections on pre-fab metal buildings and warehouses due to the heavy snows we were getting up here at the time. Too many of them were not designed with adequate snow loads.

Very nicely done!

Those were my thoughts - that it will stop and reverse while going down but it doesn’t (obviously) when it is going up. That would be a safety issue. If you had it operating correctly - down for down, up for up - the only other thing I see is not being able to easily release it if the power...

Well, they don’t rot like wood and hold stain or paint longer. Better insulating that steel and don’t end up rusting.

That’s about $1.36 a pound. Not out of line for a single piece.

See my post above yours. ;) You’re not going to “glue” a piece of angle iron on and then put hundreds of pounds of brick on it.

There are edge pieces. [Edit] Ooops… Thought you meant a different sort of “tin ceiling”...

Exactly. Online the $9 price is just for tempered hardboard - pegboard is $18.

In those cases, I have a local millwork place that will custom make anything I can design in whatever wood I want. You’re not likely to get a mass produced fiberglass door to fit those requirements.

Considering that the regular price is $736.22, I’d have confirmed the price before confirming my order.

Typically when a piece of angle is used as a brick ledge it is tied back into a lintel or a bond beam (solid masonry). Depending on how tall you plan to go, if you just anchor it to hollow masonry you could be in for a surprise at some point. :sad: As others have mentioned, you then also have...

2’-8” is pretty standard. I’ve spec’d Masonite Fiberglass doors for a number of “period” homes and have been pretty impressed with how they turned out. Here is their catalog: http://www.masonite.com/pdf/catalogs/CatalogEntryFiberglassSteel.pdf The sizes are listed in the back. They’ve got...

I do consultations - typically at a reduced hourly rate if they’re just asking questions or having me look at something and offer my opinion. I charge my normal rate if they want something “official” - whether it is a sealed drawing or letter or such. Anything “official” counts toward my...