Search results

If it dips below freezing, it makes a mess. If it stays above freezing, it just takes forever for it to dry out. One thing you can do is use setting drywall compound (the stuff you mix from powder). That sets up quicker, harder, and produces its own heat. ;)

I picked a set up on their Cyber Monday sale - definitely worth the money!

Yep. Flattened out cardboard boxes and fiberboard are well known around here. ;) Thanks for sharing tips!

First thing to do is to talk to your local building/code department to see what you need. I see a lot of people buy plans or draw something up, only to learn that they need to have them sealed by an architect or engineer or there are other regulations they need to follow. Find out what you can...

Holy ****! I never realized that Ollie’s spread so far! They started locally. I’d actually run into Ollie at the bar years ago. He actually really looked like his caricature.

^^ :lol:

That’s the one I have. Great unit!

By the way, really cool “toy” you made there. If I were your son, I’d have bundled up in about eight layers and spent the whole day out there! :) Between yours and Don Campbell’s threads, I’m getting the urge to fabricate something with tracks!

If you look, the “code” is still the same in either link. In the case of the one above, it is the “0rJRSq19yXo” part. the youtu.be link just strips a bunch of the rest of the link out - and automatically expands it, as you found out.

^^ Youtube offers the youtu.be links in the “share” panel - reduces the size of the link.

Why not just fiberglass it to repair it? Cloth and resin on the back to hold things together, then grind out the crack a bit on the front, fill it with kitty hair, sand, paint, and it will be good as new.

At least put the tubing in the floor - it’s fairly cheap and then you can make up your mind later. If you don’t do it, then you don’t have the option. That you want to keep it heated continuously lends itself well to radiant. Radiant is a poor choice if you only want to work for a few...

I use one. I doubt the garden hose would work as it is high volume air - needing the bigger hose.

Ah, ok. They span the exterior sheathing horizontal, so aren’t necessarily thinking of girts. The other thing you could do is put the plywood up horizontally and use the Tek screws to fasten it to the girts. Then use a strip of plywood or 1x behind the joints that aren’t on studs to “connect”...

Embedded the video for you... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GH4X2T_JjNc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Yep, Don definitely wins 500 Internet Points for that! :rocker:

As you say, you’d put girts between the studs. Infilling with 2x4 walls would negate the benefits of using the metal studs - just build the whole thing out of 2x4s at that point. I’d use “hat” or “z” channel for the girts and fasten it to the studs with Tek (self tapping) screws. If this is a...

Considering your work, I can only laugh at that reaction. :lol: I understand the “art” aspect. Still, the results are nothing short of amazing (there’s that word again…). I guess I’m going to have to pick a subject and give it a try.

So, any basic recommendations for starting a project like one of your construction models? I see from some of your photos that you’ve been able to obtain line drawings - and obviously lots of photographs. Here’s a new frame I built for my pickup awhile back. I used the diagram in the service...

At 250 hours, you’re talking two or three months of operation. Yes, there is daily/weekly/monthly service, but if you’re saying “overhaul” that thing must have been abused. Not surprised that it came back questionable. As I say, a couple months of operation and he’s willing to take half price...

Yep. Check with local architects or engineers. People still use them for current projects, but with everything on CAD they don’t archive paper sets like they used to so a lot of places are getting rid of them.