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Look at the delta sawbuck... A couple linear bearing some rail and a table.

Is this a troll thread?

Do you want your wall to be straight?

Looks great! What is your installer using for a primer?

^^^thats the garage door, not a man door If it's not leaking I'd probably leave it alone...as others have said angle grinder with diamond blade, air chisel and cup wheel. Here is poast where a GJ'er made a lip for a man door after the fact...good detail a lot easier to do before the concrete...

That seems like a reasonable price to me. Is there any possibility of having the new slab poured behind, next to or in front of the current location and moving the garage location. That way the moving contractor has less to do and can complete the job in one go.

Then don't build a pole barn. :dunno:

Seems like it would be easier to just build a new roof with trusses. you could always brace the roof and have a crane lift it off...buy/rent some cribbing and jacks...use a telehandler to lift it...shoring scaffolding might be strong enough....hire someone. Lots of options.

I meant rafter ties/ceiling joists/floor joists in the lower third. Your right... Collar ties would have to be in the upper third to be effective. But I'm not sure code even requires them anymore.

I kind of doubt that carpenters in the 40's building a garage were worried about sizing girder and structural ridge beams and making the proper connections. :dunno: More likely they left out the joists/ties in the middle and said good enough. Which apparently it was. But modern code enforcement...

You will need to have a rafter ties on the lower third of each rafter if you rebuild the roof more or less the same.... But there are alternatives to the code such as a structural roof beam which would require no ties/joists. and of course scissor trusses are always an option.

:lol_hitti

Hard to tell much from the pic but... I'd make sure there is no leaks first. Fix any rotted studs/plates. If you are concerned about the structural integrity of the wall due to the damage sheathing you could put new plywood on the interior of the framing and then drywall.

For a fire rated mezzanine floor you can use tile with denshield backer. Probably will also need 5/8 rock on the ceiling below to get a 1 hour rating. The cement backer boards may be more flame proof but they don't stop the heat transfer. Denshield is more like Sheetrock and can be used under...

If I only had 50 cents into them I probably wouldn't complain.

pow!

Have you tried just pulling the nails with a cats paw?

Interesting thread... FWIW I have an indoor gasification boiler with a thousand gallons storage. It's been in place and completely heating my house for 6 years with no complaints. I have a couple 120 gallon indirect domestic hot water tanks that I was thinking I would use for solar thermal...

Sounds like you aren't doing this everyday... So would something like this work (along with the cordless) http://www.uniquetruck.com/p-16732-nut-buddy-wheel-nut-loosener.aspx?affiliateID=10056&gclid=Cj0KEQjw6am-BRCTk4WZhLfd4-oBEiQA3ydA3s3I1DcjP0eiYFvaG_3wfRQ5Bp0KoU32FVjYkftoDWwaAjx88P8HAQ

I know the site you mentioned... HArbor freight coupon depot or something... But just the initials, annoyingly hard to remember ;)