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I would say the slide is a couple mm. too "wide". The edges on top appear like they need a bit of filing. Thanks for the suggestion. The job appears doable and practical.

Trying to get the movable jaw assembly separated from immovable jaw. Unscrewed far enough but the slider is very tight and does not want to come off. Should I just spray with penetrating oil or diesel and keep pounding to separate the halves? The threaded portion is out of the guide in the back...

I think I have to take the vise apart and look at all the individual parts and how they fit and interact together. Rather than damage, I think I am looking at some wear here. To my estimation, the hub should remain in the body of the moving jaw when the screw is adjusted so as to increase jaw...

I unscrewed the mobile jaw far enough to see, when flipped over, that the collar is held in place by a pin, not a screw. There appears to be around 2-3mm of forward/reverse slop and I'm guessing that a shim or wafer or washer could take up that 2-3 mm space created when the movable jaw is...

I get the feeling that immediately behind the "hub", the 1/2 assembly is the problem. The shaft, upon its movement to open the jaws, causes the "hub" to move outward and the result is the slop I mentioned. There might also be some loose spacer inside, just guessing until I get it opened up and...

I will try to get some photos of the vise and especially what I see happening in the front of the screw. I wish I knew vise anatomy and what the various parts are called. Thanks to all for expressing an interest in my quandary.

AS you separate the jaws and get around 1" open, the beveled part on the shaft that fits into the hole at the front is allowed to move 360. You can chuck the shaft by rotating the handle and moving it through 360. You create a space and since the shaft is moving all around a circle, seems like...

My 105 Reed vise is cosmetically very nice and I wonder if the slop that comes from opening up the jaw is due to wear or some other internal carrying wafer or washer inside? Perhaps some threaded washer gadget is worn and the slop appeared. You can shuck the shaft by moving it in a 360 degree...

Most of the vintage drill presses have 2 set screw that clamp down on 3/4" diameter rods that fixes the position of the motor driven belt. I've looked at a number of these old presses and many, if not most, have snapped off set screws. I have such a press, one side was snapped off and the other...

Model 101 with the third belt on it. In the process of adding a new belt, I really like this press.

Does anybody have a manual for the Atlas Craftsman drill press? I have the Companion model, a little smaller press. Would appreciate the privilege of having this manual to help me renovate my old press thank you

Just another easy question for the peanut gallery. On a drill press run with a Reeves drive mechanism, on both motor and spindle sides, which flange goes up and down to alter the distance between the flanges thereby changing the depth of belt penetration toward the shaft or back toward the...

Thanks to Larry G, I got some good info on taking apart my Rockwell 15-655 dp. However, on the spindle side, I cannot separate the halves of the pulley. They are stuck and I don't know what tool would be best to pull the halves apart. Would it be a big C-clamp? A valve spring compressor? Any...

OK, if the rust and detritic obstructions are causing this mechanism on the output pulley to be prevented from adequate upward and downward movement, perhaps somebody can tell me if both pulleys should be removed, the shafts cleaned and lubed, and then put back together. It seems like this is...

I will describe what I see as the problem in the Reeves drive. There is NOTHING busted anywhere, nothing at all. Zero. The metal ring, about 1/8" thick on the spindle is preventing the movement of the yoke attached ring of metal that compresses and relaxes the bottom flange of the sheave. The...

Here is the photo of the business end of the yoke. The whitish ring of metal below this yoke associated part that encircles the spindle is NOT moving at all when I try to activate the rpm control. Is this preventing my changing of rpm's.

I'm willing to do anything needed as long as I know if my suppositions are correct or not. Yoke movement dictates contact of cam and wheel and this movement is what allows for compression of the lower pulley flange up against the upper flange.

I think the cam pushes down on the wheel and then this causes the yoke to push up against the bottom of the lower pulley flange thereby increasing the circumference. I don't understand the performance aspect of the motor pulley being spring loaded, etc. I would say the front pulley should be...