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If it was forward, it would not be in the way when the truck is just parked and would clear the walk around the truck. I wouldn't mine moving it forward some but it would be almost on top of the joint seam.

Trying to find the right sopt is pretty hard! The door is close here.

With a couple of trucks.

Thanks everyone! Here are a few pictures I took today while trying to plan the lift. I can't seem to find the right spot...to close to door...to close to joint...maybe to far forward. I had planned to use the third door bay but the framer used my space with the stairs. I wasn't planning them to...

I am geting ready to order my two post asymetrical lift. It's a long story but I am not able to put it where I had intended. I am now having to try to avoid windows, expansion joints, etc. The longest vehicle that will be on the lift is an F-150 super cab (about 20'). Does anyone know where the...

Not a problem! In fact, I'm working on that now in order to place a two post lift. BTW: Does anyone reading this know where the post for an asymmetrical lift would be in relation to a super cab pickup? Kevin, I'm on duty today. I'll get you the information tomorrow afternoon.:thumbup:

Hi everyone! I'm getting ready for winter and I'm going to put heat in this thing before it gets cold. I've decided on the Northern "Big Maxx" heater. I figure it will be neat and clean and heat things up quickly. My problem is the proper size for my situation. There are 45,000 and 75,000 BTU...

The tubes in the lights are 54w each. 3240watts of light!:thumbup:

Don't remember the name but it was a"silicone" stain and was reccomended by the paint store...that I no longer do business with.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51650&highlight=30x40+build

I had a bad experience with concrete stain in the past. The stuff held tire marks and was impossible to overcoat. I ended up putting race deck down. Anyway, I have a 28x38 floor. I do have some pocked places that the concrete guy tried to fix. They are slightly uneven and a different shade so...

I haven't found much on this and could use some help. I have a new floor so no oil stains etc...yet. I really don't want to go the epoxy route because this will be a working garage and I don't think epoxy will hold up. What I do need is to seal the concrete so that oil etc does not soak in. Can...

I have race deck and the tiles near the open door buckle a good inch in the sun without any movement at the walls. I hate that!

South Mills, out near the outer banks and virginia line.

Thanks Brad! We used 4" block. The header was an engineered beam and I'm not sure of the size. I can look it up if you need the information?

A few from today.

Here are a few more pictures as things are getting closer. Lift and work benches are soon to come. Afor the lights on the outside, DO NOT BUY FROM "Remodle Center" "Home center" and I think they have one or two other alasis. I ordered fixtures in March, got a reply that the ship date was June...

Central, after further review:headscrat, I think you are talking about a gap behind the trim to the block wall. Pic is not very good here. I am ripping sm treated to fill this on all of the doors 'cause it's going to be a dirt catcher!

No, no gap inside or out. I don't have any close ups of the outside when it was open. All bricked now. Look at the 5th post. It shows the inside at the block. I had 5/8 osb on the exterior and 5/8 t-111 on the inside. I cut my own trim for the door and windows routed etc. so there was no...

6" block will make your walls flush with the block so there will be no lip. I used 5/8 sheathing for the interior walls so that laps over the block for a more finished look. If you like, I can take some pictures and post next week?