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I'd probably make some new jaws. Then use flat head screws and tap the holes in the vise.

I have a puller bear and it works great for single stems. Also depending on species. I think I have the medium size one. I've removed lots of multiflora rose and honey suckle along with trees. Below grade Bunches of autumn olive Id go with an axe or mattock.

If you haven't poured concrete yet, I would some longer anchor j bolts and cast them in the concrete. Then drill the beams, no brackets

The gray pipe looks like PVC and would be plumbing vent. By the looks of the rest of it maybe the FIL is one of those guys who thinks you never need to pump a septic tank in 40 years, just add some yeast every couple years. Maybe when they fixed the roof they cut them down and never bothered to...

I'd say to get it straight on the walls and ridge you'll need to do both. Don't use a car jack. Do you need to replace the ridge board because it's burned or the sag?

For your first saw I would go with 16 inch

The OP pictured Martin hammers are nice quality. I have bought them from Summit Racing. Prob plenty of other places sell them too if you cant do summit in the UK

They should change the name to Low Performance Tool. It's junk. There shouldn't be that much gouging on the tube where it holds. I had one of their chain tubing cutters. It didn't make one cut. The cutters rounded over and I threw it straight in the trash.

If it's just the supply lines you could move them to interior walls. Hard to say without knowing where the water is coming from

You want to use dry stickers to avoid staining.

Doesn't look like it was ever sharpened enough to be effective in wood. I'd say somebody's great granny weeding tool.

With a real fancy floor, jack stands aren't going to work. You need a a lift now. I think that's the rules.

I've seen log marking hammers only as stand alone tools. A broad axe wouldn't be used to fell or buck logs any way. There was a time where men would hew RR ties in the woods right where they cut the trees so it might be for marking ties once they were done. But I'm guessing some previous owners...

A lot depends on the wood species. Open pore wood like oak and walnut End grain will drink non hardening oil almost indefinitely. And any other liquid or juice. Real butcher blocks are made of sugar maple or maybe sycamore for toughness and the closed grain. I think sugar maple is the only wood...

I doubt the power company will allow a variance. Looks like your only option is the front yard.

Plenty of v series at Lowe's last week. None on sale.

I'd guess the drain valve needs to be replaced.

Bucket traps work well. I got 10 mice in about 2 weeks. One night it rained hard outside and I got 5.

Maasdam pullers work nice with rope and are continuous pull.

To me Used taps are consumables like sand paper and cut off wheels. Especially old obsolete forms and cheapo Japan made ones. Add in some rust and they be in the trash for me. A couple of those tap handles might be handy if you need one.