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A lot depends on your location. Around here maybe 100 bucks if you want to sell it quick. Maybe 200 if you want to wait around for the right buyer

19 ft wide with 5/12 pitch doest give you much of attic space. I'd cut the roof material back so you set new rafters on the top plate of the wall. Or cut any over hang you have off and put a plate on top of the roof deck and frame from there. 2x6 rafters are a lot cheaper but losing the beam...

I made one like that for my car. You can get long eye bolts and S hooks at tractor supply. You may not need any chain if you can get directly over your lift point.

Any blade is a demo blade. Use your circular saw with an old blade and a rip guide on the saw and go for it.

Hit a few yard sales. You'll be swimming in 12pts in no time.

What are the putting on that new age asphalt stuff. They should be using handsaws and hatchets to install cedar shingles.

Yeah those drawers are a real downer. You dodged a bullet there, they probably would have made you use the self checkout too

Simpson usually has clear instructions on their website. I bet those are a lot more expensive than j bolts.

I would use precast 4 ft piers or sonotubes with concrete. Don't level the ground. Use posts under a sill beam to account for the differences on height.

Trucks with drum brakes you definitely need one. The bleeder is in narrow space between the backing plate and the leaf springs. A regular box end with an angle you can't get on the bleeder square. An open end would work if the stuff is new but any rust and age good luck.

Make sure the air fitting matches the hose. I've seen problems with high flow couplers will hook up to regular fittings but not flow correctly. I have that same air hammer and mine works great.

I'd probably strip the roof first so the walls keep the posts solid while you're up there. Or pull the walls then temporarily brace the posts/ header while on the roof.

A row of block would be good around the bottom. You need to be able to jack it up first. Brace the building well before get too far. I'd prob go with a new 4x4 sill anchored down then sister new studs to the old ones. Then you could cut off the rotten parts of old ones and put new pieces in.

Pull a batten and cut the horizontal 2x4s. Too bad you have to take it down

I think the red ones are smooth. 20 years ago I got a brown one. Then you could get the same box red or brown

Since you have the plastic post sleeve maybe you could notch the underlying post a little and not see it when you're done.

Could be a red squirrel. Clear any trees that they can jump from onto the roof. A rat trap will work if you want to kill them.

2x4 are only 3.73 at HD and they still give you 10 percent off if you buy 100

I wouldn't blame the neighbor. Plants and trees absorb a lot more water than concrete and steel. And the bottom fence boards right on the ground are probably acting like a dam if you want drainage that way. Gutters on the building piped into a dry well is the solution

It looks to me it's leaking higher up and running down the plywood. Then damming up on the existing metal trim under the rolled roofing. I'd check for leaks and tar the edges if you want so try and get more life out of it.