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Guys - I'll get pictures this weekend. They do set into the ceiling - I don't have a ceiling yet, I just set them at a height that will work with the drywall.....someday. PS no need for a drop ceiling with these.....

You maybe able to make a sizing tool that will round out soft copper. I'm thinking of running a bolt with washers through a round piece of rubber, like a shock bushing. Tighten down on the bolt, and the rubber will expand, maybe rounding out the soft copper.

Santa just picked up a grease gun holder for me from there - $14 - It holds the gun upright on the wall and catches the oil drippings from the gun.

JR - that's exactly what I have 16 of.....I bought the $40 version that came with four bulbs....

I have 16 of the HD T8 4' fixtures - Sounds like alot, but I over lit two bays with 4 fixtures each, one where my woodshop is located, and the other where my lift bay is. Each other bay only received two fixtures. (6 bays total) PS I went 4' for ease of transport, replacement and disposal.

I had a 5' lowside, 900 tons of fill later it's nice and flat. 600 tons of quarry process, spread and rolled with a 9 ton vibratory roller - 300 tons of fill around the perimeter. That was a 6 digit escavation job!

I used their basic plans, and ordered trusses through them, but I didn't buy the 'kit'

I considered the same thing when we updated out kitchen counters. I did use the laminate couters in my shop, and the sink was going to be a parts washer. But I still needed the pump, the hose/brush and a reservoir. I tossed the idea when I saw complete setups in HF for $100-200.

wow - over $5000 for my garage.

Ryan - I worked in a marina for years and we had our own body shop. What do you have less of - time or money? It would be much less labor and not too much more money to replace the doors. If you want to go for it. Take the doors down, remove all the hardware, wash them down with lacquer...

Sorry I still didn't answer your question - That thimble is visible from outside. I'll take a photo over the weekend - I don't have any lights back there and with DST it's not light enough while I'm home.....

Yes - I have that same thing - There should be two pieces, one from the inside, one from the outside. That helps to keep the double walled pipe away from any combustibles. My inside walls have yet to be insulated or finished - so that thimble is just hanging there on the pipe. The outside flange...

I'm very happy with my Millermatic 175

go with the silicon - If you use 5200 you can count on never getting it out without ruining the counter and or the sink. I used that stuff for years to glue tuna towers and bow rails to boats.....when we had to remove something, it would often rip the gel coat off the boat.

HD was too expensive for me - I needed (3) 10x10 doors, HD was over $1000 each at the time. I called all of our local garage door shops, and went with Amarr Heritage Series- http://www.amarr.com/steel_heritage_gallery.asp 2" steel insulated, at the time $625 delivered..... Here's a shot from...

I used a rectangle box, one that was used for electric meters. Mostly because that's what my supplier could get in my siding color the quickest. My thimble exits the building in the rear, so the shape didn't matter all that much. Come to think of it, the color shouldn't have mattered to me...

Rich, I dont have a picture handy, but I used a vinyl siding 'block' - it's basically a square or rectangle, color matched to your siding, that has the 'J' channel built in. They make them in different sizes for lights, outlets, switches, etc.... Drill the big hole in through your wall wherever...

I have this in my 1500 sq ft basement. It really does the trick. Two of my friends now have the same one and we all swear by it.... http://www.sylvane.com/santa-fe-dehumidifier.html

Make sure your heater isn't keeping it closed. If my heater isn't 'on' or trying to be on, gas won't flow. I think there's a valve in the regulator. Try unhooking the heater from the pipe.

I had about 30 feet of line, just opened the valve till I smelled some. Let that clear the room for 15 minutes, and then fired up the heater. For the first 5 minutes it sputtered as it worked any air pockets out of the line - but it was fairly painless....