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Garage was here before we bought the house. The notches aren't much, which is why I hadn't really noticed it until now... when I was seeing how much clearance between trusses and door. But ya when I realized what they were from I thought WTF. If that's a way to do it I'll ask the guy coming...

I'm having a garage door company coming out within the next couple days. Because the upper tracks are about an inch too tall and will interfere with ceiling already (you can see, in the second pic, where the bottom of the truss closest to the torsion spring is already notched a little for door...

Finishing up the wall insulation and next step is to run ceiling insulation between the trusses. Then put up some 1x4 furring strips on the bottom of the trusses until I can figure out what ceiling material to go with. The batt insulation install is pretty straight forward but I have a question...

I'm actually in the middle of the road, I have a few car badges and car show plates that I have attached to magnets. I can move 'em or remove 'em if I need. My fridge gets most of the actual stickers in my garage. But I don't just put anything on there, either

From Dow's Knowledge Base website: They also have a Technical Solutions on it as well, explains it a bit further: http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedLiteratureDOWCOM/dh_01f1/0901b803801f14e8.pdf?filepath=styrofoam/pdfs/noreg/179-07513.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc Basically it looks like I am okay...

I followed the John Manville recommendations, which verified both stapling methods were okay for their products. I ended up choosing to staple onto the side because some instructions for sheathing using OSB or Plywood recommended gluing and screwing, which kraft paper over the face of the stud...

^^^ That's what I keep telling myself, that apparently since this is a common sheathing method that it has to allow the use of batt faced insulation? Especially since it is only the 1/2" thick stuff, and is not wrapped or sealed in any other way. It goes up to 1" and 2" thick from what I can...

I am going to give Dow a call today, judging by the color and some corner markings I was able to see, it is from Dow. I also saw the R3 markings. It appears to be XPS 1/2" (R-value of 3) with plastic film facing on both sides. The material is pretty thin and from some quick research only at 2"...

I'm definitely going to read through that tomorrow for sure. Hopefully it makes more sense to me then :thumbup: :beer: I like the idea of just contacting the manufacturer too. I think my only concern initially is that I don't know exactly the sheathing is? I imagine it is marked on the other...

Hey, that looks right up my alley! I read through some of the vapor section but some of it was a little over my head so I'm going to read through the whole thing tomorrow when I can get a chance. But it seems my answer may depend on a few things so here are some details: Detached garage...

I plan to leave the kraft faced batts as they are for the time being, and maybe later this year cover with some type of sheathing. Maybe not drywall but plywood or OSB are likely. I am pretty sure that plastic lining is a vapor barrier. To be honest I didn't even remember that stuff was lined...

So I've been working for the past 3 weekends putting up insulation in my detached outbuilding. Started with the walls and will be doing the ceiling soon. Here is where I'm at, after about 30 rolls: Well this was what it looked like earlier before insulation: The walls were sheathed on...

Another question - Should I shoot for R-19 or R-30 for the ceiling insulation? I assume it is a "buy as much insulation as you can afford" situation. If I hold off on the ceiling paneling and do it at a later time... I can probably swing R-30 in the budget. If I do not plan on heating/cooling...

I won't be finishing the ceiling so taping/mudding is out. I would not mind using t-molding on the seams and just simply paint that, so that could be an option. But I have heard a lot of people avoiding drywall on unheated/cooled garages and I wanted to avoid any problems that may come from the...

black roof. Don't see many white roofs here. :headscrat No ridge/soffit vents, just two gable vents on each side. One has a 1600 cfm gable vent exhaust fan on a t-stat.

I've had the same thing happen to me too. Used two boxes of the Owens Corning garage door kit... maybe 15 or so lbs in each box? Before doing the insulation the door wasn't exactly right, took some effort to lift but not much... but now it is really heavy to lift, and I need to prop it up to...

I like the soffit idea. A bit pricey judging by what is available at HD and Lowes. I'm thinking about finding a siding supplier to see if they have anything comparable to the Durapanels or anything like it. Worst case I can always fall back on the 1/4 plywood w/ white paint. Cost shouldn't be...

Is there a particular size furring strip that is recommended? Looks like most available is 1x2 or 1x4?

Did some quick research and I like the Durapanels, but looks like it is not available in my area. Anyone know if there is an equivalent available in the SouthEast area? Otherwise that looks pretty good and the price is not bad! I had looked at Lowes/HD not too long ago and perused through their...

Here are some pictures of the outbuilding for reference: