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Milwaukee M18 1/2” mid torque, another charger, and 2 XC5.0 batteries. The mid torque will probably do 90% of what I need out of a 1/2” impact, but I’ll still probably end up with the 2767 too.

Yeah I tried to take the tip off my finger off with a Phillips head screw driver. And I appreciate the words on the tape job, I had to make enough makeshift bandages that I got a pretty good system for it now lol

So I swapped the 20A breaker for a 15A and changed out the switch since it was only $5. Hopefully it should all be squared away. Thanks again, guys

That tool will fit in almost every hole I stick it in. Did i phrase that better? Lol

I can understand that but Id argue that the ergonomics and battery placement has as much to do with destroying Dewalt as outright performance. It’s not just the one thing that makes it better than the other.

So it’s less for outright perfomance, and more for what’s available and where they fit and I think a lot of that has to do with battery size and placement. Especially for me working on cars, the M12 stubby 3/8 impact and 3/8 ratchet have the power and ergonomics I need in a size that fits where...

Absolutely, the M12 line is destroying Dewalt for the 12v stuff, however, especially regarding the impacts and ratchets. I also think the M18 impact options are way better than Dewalt too. That’s what really convinced me to jump over to M18, I used my buddy’s 2767 and compared it to my Dewalt...

I’ve been a Dewalt guy for a while since my dad was a woodworker. I picked up the M12 tools to have something smaller than the 20V stuff. Decided to go ahead and make the jump over to M18 as well. Slowly selling off my Dewalt stuff now. Totally worth it.

There’s a wire nut on there holding the three wires together. It’s just a little difficult to see from where I pushed it into the box. They’re not just twisted together.

I appreciate all the help, guys. I definitely need to reread up on electrical or just stick to mechanical.

Switch is rewired correctly. And I’ll get a 15A tomorrow and replace it.

Alright I’ll knock that out and report back

So pig tail the grounds together with a single wire going to ground screw White wires get wire nutted together and never to touch the switch One black wire to each screw Did I get that right?

Switch Light Ground per install instructions Hot and Neutral to Light

So I finally got around to running a flood light on the front of the garage. Got everything hooked up the way it’s supposed to be, power comes from the panel to a switch by the door, then runs from the switch to the light on the front of the building. If the switch is up, it trips the breaker...

It’s always funny to see the guys that are never happy no matter what. They (usually engineers and managers) complain about working overtime, even just a few hours (while us production guys are regularly working 60+ a week) and the complain more when the overtime goes away cause they’re short on...

So I plan on maybe getting some hooks to go into the rafters, but I also have to keep in mind that my wife wouldn’t be able to reach them without a stepladder so the wall kinda works for now.

Hung a few hooks so all our rods have their own spot.

I don’t use mine as much as I used to since I’ve mostly converted over to cordless. However, it still gets used regularly to blow dust off my clothes, blow out pipes or hoses, or to run my body saw or air hammer. There’s been times it’s sat for a while, mainly when I’m at work too much to do...

Cleaned out the shed, rearranged some stuff from the garage that should’ve been in the shed, then replaced all the light bulbs in the garage.