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Just got back from Christmas vacation. My joints were the saw type, barely more than 1/8" wide. I did mine after the sealer was applied with about 10 days cure time. I used self leveling Home Depot Sika Pro Select polyurethane. I pushed foam backer rod/rope into the joint so that the...

My VERY quick and dirty internet search seems to lead to your conclusion. You have to eliminate the source of water pushing the sulfates up to the surface. One site suggests that only sealing the surface can cause the efflorescence to continue forming underneath the surface and cause spalling...

It seems that the matte finishTS210's decent slip resistant rating of .65 Wet DCOF would also be indicative of having some "grippyness" to it? Yes/no? Also, regarding emailing the company: They REALLY prefer to talk in person, proclaiming they have the customer's best interest at heart and...

I would start with this informative article from an excellent source: https://allgaragefloors.com/concrete-floor-sealers/ Then widen your learning to other articles at that site. 1.)Penetrating sealers, 2.)penetrating thin topical sealers, and full blown 3.) thick topical sealers are the main...

There seems to be no silver bullet that meets ALL criteria. Either the OP needs to alter his work mode to avoid weld spatter, dropped metal, dragging, etc., or he has to live with possibility of stains with the non-topical products. Shea gave him an answer that reflects his wants: pick one...

Can moisture under or behind concrete "push" the salts to the surface?

To me, it looks like concrete efflorescence. Google it. "https://www.nitterhousemasonry.com/blog/what-is-efflorescence/ "Efflorescence is a crystalline deposit of salts that can form when water is present in or on brick, concrete, stone, stucco or other building surfaces. It has a white or...

I was told that its actually better that the sikaflex only adheres to the two sides of the cut (using backer rod) vs. all three sides (bottom). This allows it to move better with the slabs. Experts, agree or disagree?

Unless you can heat the space, you are daily getting closer to not being able to apply anything. I "think" about the lowest you can go with penetrating sealers/densifiers is about 40F (needs confirmation). Moving up to thin topical coatings and beyond to thick coatings you are looking for...

Needs confirmation from the Armorpoxy - I "think" Coval states that it can be applied over penetrating sealers/densifiers, so maybe next summer you still might have the option of a thin topical coating. Best of luck with your project. You will feel better (anxiety relieved) after getting...

Man, that turned out excellent. I had to look up "post tensioned slab".

Most pros I know hand file their chains. Bench mount grinders are good for restoring the the cutters to equal length and all angles to factory spec. (IF your grinder is set up properly, another discussion topic). A good hybrid solution is to hand file your chains most of the time and if they...

Coval instructions state that it can be applied down to 40F. It seems to take a bit more care and skill to apply. Contact Armorpoxy for advice. I used an infrared gun to check my concrete temps. https://covaltechnologies.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/05/Coval_TDS_Concrete_0523_USA.pdf...

My application story: Both ConcreteSealers (TS210) and Armorpoxy(Ballistic, Coval) recommended NOT to use their thin topical coatings for my project, and suggested full blown THICK coatings (epoxy, polyaspartic, etc.). Wasn't in the cards - if my project fails, the next guy can grind it off...

I just applied TS210 to my project building about 3 weeks ago and would like to add some comments about coverage rates. Both Shea and ConcreteSealers emphasized that THIN applications are paramount (pooling = cloudiness). Your three coats on a 430 sq. ft. floor with one gallon indicates to me...

Go to Shea's site for unbiased description of the different systems: https://allgaragefloors.com/ Maybe start with their excellent article describing the 3 basic systems: 1.) penetrating sealers/densifiers, 2.) Thin topical penetrating sealers, and 3.) thick coatings...

With some saying that the earth might be over 4 billion years old, a few weeks or maybe even a month or two for your garage to become usable again doesn't seem that long. "patience, young grasshopper" might be in order. I wouldn't consider it a failure requiring replacement. But I'm a...

It seems that polyurea and polyaspartic are being tossed around here as being the same, or similar. Above, @Shea describes polyaspartic as having challenging concrete adhesion issues. ArmorPoxy states "Polys are thin, cure too fast and are not ideal base coats." On the other hand, @Shea's...

On behalf of everyone here (I hope), I want to thank Shea at All Garage Floors for the expertise and assistance he provides regarding flooring. He is a vital link between us DIYers and the flooring vendors/manufacturers, often clearing up misunderstandings about various products. His passion...

Stihl got upset with you Yoopers when you tried to become your own state, so they pulled out all of their support.;)