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Yes there was a car on the lift. But it's a project. The nice thing is. It broke a seal and it was loud. But honestly it wasn't dropping fast at all. And it did catch on the safety locks. There was no safety concerns luckily.

Never mind I found the piece that came off. It's just a breather screen. Which means it busted the seal inside the cylinder. I just need to rebuild it and I should be back in business. Thank you all

One more picture

Direct lift 8k lift I was raising my lift back up. And then I heard a slight pop so I thought a line burst. I started to take it apart and noticed that the lines were fine. Then I noticed it was leaking on the back side of the cylinder where the mount is. There is no fittings or anything to...

Lol. I would think the dirt is from bugs. bringing it up from the ground conduit from the grounding rod. And the brown thing is a dead bat. I have no idea how he got in there. The only reason I haven't removed it is I don't want to get near it. those are the hot lugs from the meter

No I have that going from the left side of the house to the right side of the house through the Attic. Then I hit another disconnect. Then it switches to mhf wire underground.

Hooking up the neutral wire. Does it have to be on the left hand side bar. I'm pretty sure both bars are bonded together. The only problem is the lugs are not big enough on the left hand side. I just wanted to know if it's up to code that way or if I need to go get a lug that allows me to adapt...

All done. Just need to run silicone to double seal the outside box.

I still have to clean up the whole a little bit. I could not double up the box on the outside. I just can't have it sticking out that far. The Box behind it is a little bit bigger so it will allow it to press and seal with the outside box. I think everything should work out good. Fingers crossed.

I appreciate it this might be the route I have to go. I was just seeing if there was another way. I don't like how far it makes everything stick out off the building. But it is what it is.

Finishing up my build. Last thing to do is adding a outdoor receptacle. I was going to add a non-metallic box on the outside with a cover. But I'm not happy with how far it sticks out. My question is, what's the preferred way? Can I mount a Metallic box on the backside? Then use the cover on the...

Just these? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Halex-2-in-Rigid-Plastic-Insulated-Bushing-4-Pack-27526/100169597

Hopefully everything looks good. Just have the ground wire from the outside left.

Thank you all for the response. Last question only because of the photo provided. Does the copper ground wire need to be encased the whole way from the ground rods?

I'm bringing in my main mhf wire from the outside through 2 inch conduit. Once it enters my steel building. Does it still need to be encased in conduit. It's probably a 2-foot run from the entrance to the Box. Exposed wire would be behind plywood wall. Melbourne FL

Thank you.

Can I still use the ground rods? Just in case it wasn't done right? Also to bond the frame. Ground from the rods to the frame and from there, to the ground to the sub panel?

I will be using PVC.

I will have 2 8ft grounding rods and the concrete slab rebar has a ground wire connected to it that will attach to the grounding rods also. Along with the 4wire mhf wire from the main. Do I still need to ground the metal frame?

Location brevard county FL. Detached metal garage. I'm bringing my MHF from the outside using a 2in LB conduit body. My question is the ground wire from the outside grounding rods, what is the best way to enter the building? A Separate LB body for it?