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18" Wooster Epoxy Glide 1/4" nap worked well for me.

Hope everything works out. Suggest using a solvent-based urethane clear coat. High DFT does not make an epoxy clear coat better than other types. The clear coat mainly provides protection against yellowing from UV light and also seals the flakes.

If you're willing to do the work, grind it and apply epoxy. It was a LOT of work between degreasing, diamond grinding with the Edco walk-behind, the hand-held 4" to grind near the walls, the multiple pressure washings to remove the residual sealer, and the acid etching. If I had to do it...

GFCI breakers are being installed in my 100A garage subpanel, located in the same space as the circuits it serves. Outlets in my garage are very likely to get banged-up and replacement costs for standard outlets are much less than GFCI ones.

The referenced 4s and 5s boxes seem to the metal type. What is the equivalent size in a blue plastic old work box? Is it common practice to use a raised cover with a plastic box?

Armorgarage is the best value IMO. 100% solids with UV-resistant clearcoat. It has met and exceeded my expectations.

I can't really tell from the picture, but is there a bracket with a hook that mounts to the ceiling/wall from which the reel hangs? Also, does the pull-down light itself have and outlet?

A driveway sloping down to the garage is a bad design. I would not even remotely consider doing so. More details on the house are needed to develop a solution. Is the house a split-level/split-foyer or is it a typical one- or two story house with basement? Is the garage a front-load, meaning...

MY outdoor unit is fed by 10 AWG on a 45A breaker. The 45A breaker will be replaced by a 30A when connecting the feeder for my garage subpanel project. I am hoping that downsizing the breaker doesn't result in nuisance trips. As far as welder circuits go, I purchased 8/2 for mine and I don't...

Pressure washer.

That's a good friend. After viewing these pics, I noticed a similar install in an industrial setting. It's actually a really good look if concealed is not an option.

High-quality epoxy (including EXTENSIVE prep) cost me as much as Racedeck and I can't take it with me when I move. The whole process took day after day after day.... Acid for etching is highly corrosive and fumes from the clearcoat were toxic. I would do it again though.

Wow man. That's a long paragraph. My aunt and uncle have a 10 year-old one-story house with walk-out basement. There is an unfinished room beneath the garage - he calls it his shed lol. That space is underneath the garage slab and it has a corrugated steel pan ceiling. It's likely 22'x22'...

Particle board flooring is in the middle third of the space with truss webs at both edges of the flooring. It is used for light storage. The wires will run next to the pulldown stairs opening. The work will be inspected. What size guards will be sufficient and how should they be positioned?

Will be running 10 circuits perpendicular to the trusses on the floor of an unfinished attic (with pulldown stairs). The runs will be next to the truss web near the middle of the space. From what I can tell, I will need to use guard strips, running boards, or another type of cable protection...

Currently doing similar project myself. My thoughts are: 1. Inspector said, if using aluminum SER, go with #1 (1-1-1-3) for 100A subpanel. 2. 8/2 is acceptable for 50A welder-only circuit, depending on welder duty cycle. Mine would be light duty residential, so 8/2 it will be. 3...

What kind of 1-phase 220V equipment might be found in a garage that would need a neutral, aside from a dryer?

Why grind the floor? I used an Edco single disc grinder (and Edco vacuum) with Dyma-serts only because there was an existing sealer on the floor. Shot-blasting would have worked better, I believe, because the Edco didn't completely remove the sealer. Lots of pressure washing afterwards...

Seems like another ground/neutral bar or two is needed for best practices. Where could they physically be mounted, with respect to the main breaker? Could additional bars be simply connected anywhere in the grey panel box casing or would they need to be jumpered to the existing bars somehow?

^^Can't speak to using actual sand, but mixing 1/2-pack of Clear Grip into my gallon of solvent-based urethane clear coat worked well. It's more powdery than granular and is not too rough. You can't really feel it there, but it has worked well.