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I would sand blast and refinish all of the old hardware and use the old doors as patterns for the new doors. Build brand new ones exactly the same.

The insulation is on top of the compacted gravel. The insulation on the outside of the slab and the wing extending out from the building are essential to protect from frost heaving and it works very well. Personally I used 4"R20. The 2x6 wall overhangs to avoid creating a drip edge. This can...

I use an app called "Tapatalk" to access GJ, the forum looks completely different than on the desktop but it makes posting and uploading pictures very easy from my phone

Great man door, and I really like all those windows.

If this is a worry, a board can be run horizontally along the bottom of the wall for the vertical boards to **** up against, then the batts will overlap the vertical gap as well as the lower horizontal board. It looks very clean but is a little more time consuming.

The overhang you like is created for a drip edge (like before mentioned) instead of butting the boards together. This is done either because longer lumber was not available to use clear boards or possibly to avoid excessive lumber waste. I've got only the boards on mine so far, gonna wait until...

Poor rubber chicken

From what I've researched manufacturers reccomend most clear floor two post hoists are allowed a 12' wide 24' long bay. "Most" modern hoists will fit under a 12'6" ceiling height. So you should be ok with your 24'x25'

There you go!

Nice

I just noticed this post is from July.... Probably a little late eh?

Any idea of the R value of those boards? How thick are they and how deep is the cavity you have to fill? Definitely use a vapor barrier before you sheet. I don't see any exterior wrap used, so I wonder if you should lay the wrap in around the building first, then insulation, then vapour barrier...

Also be sure to bell the bottom of the new concrete piers to prevent any chance of frost lifting them.

The barn looks nice and straight so frost doesn't seem an issue. I think theoldwizard1 has the right idea for a permanent fix. For some reason I was picturing a much more delicate building that couldn't be disturbed without collapsing, lol! I just finished doing exactly what theoldwizard...

WOW! That's a lot of work. Gonna take a wild guess that's all original lathe and plaster with no insulation behind it. So it'll be a full gutting of at least all exterior walls..... I wonder also about the wiring, nob and tube, two wire, or has it been updated? Does it have a dirt floor basement...

Any pics of the place?

Those perms columns sound like a lot of work. Check out these guys, you could have one driven in beside each existing pole and bolt the poles to them. The ones I've seen done barely damage the lawn. Oh and they're engineer stamped. http://www.technometalpost.com/en/home/

Could you post a picture of the outside of the building? I'm curious what the siding looks like and also the surrounding grading.

Bingo!

Heres a link showing how to frost protect a shallow foundation, substitute their concrete with your poles. http://oikos.com/esb/43/foundations.html