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I thought I saw somewhere that the capsule form is 2 years, but the drawer liner type is 5 years, but either way, it doesn't seem more expensive to replace in a few years than the cost of a couple tubes of Semichrome polish and a polishing bonnet to restore the tools. But does anyone have...

My tool chest of drawers is in an unfinished garage. After a number of years the unfinished "polished" pliars, side cutters and the likes, as well as drill chucks have tarnish, oxidation and slight surface rust. It took quite a bit of effort to polish them part way back to original condition.

http://zerustproducts.com/toolbox-tackle-box/drawer-liners

Anyone try them? Looking for a long term maintenance free solution to rust in polished tools in the garage.

This is not an exact science and the slab ends up with many cracks and will not have a uniformly level surface. I wouldn't do it in my house. And as someone else said, you end up with a bunch of patched cored holes. Perhaps the key is your description "existing" slab. Building codes change...

Be sure to use a non-chloride accellerator, not calcium chloride. (Both what he is wrongly calling antifreeze.) The calcium chloride will later show issues just like salt put on the sidewalk. Be cautious of the weather though because if you have the mix treated and the weather gets warm during...

We got our garage winterized and the cold air was much more apparent at the edges of the door than through the door itself. Try some compressible foam mounted on the wall jambs and head installed to friction fit to the doors. It made all the difference in heating our garage.

Beyond me too when my '67 ragtop cost $7000 in '69, but it seems that nostalgia gets the better of some folks.

The only way to tell is have a sample tested. It can be in both the tile/sheet goods and adhesive. The dates quoted are inaccurate. Our mid-80s built house tested positive in the flooring.

Guess you missed the part where he mentioned his Camaro. Camaros sell for $30k and up around here.

"Play"? There should never be permanent deflection if the material has not reached it's yield point. That is a sign of failure. Personally we wouldn't risk our $30,000 toys in a $6,000 shed.

"I cut it twice, and it was still too short". Slow down and plan it out, including finances, otherwise you might just be building some one else's garage.

Built ours on a base of two waist high dressers, providing drawers on the ends and spanned between with 2x4 framing for both a top and midheight bed of 3/4" plywood. Other than that, also picked up some pretty HD General Electric manufactured steel assembly tables from a military camp GSA auction.

Just my 2 cents, a laterally unsupported beam, like a hoist beam, is always going to be stronger if it is wider; That 12 1/2 pound beam isn't your best choice. And you might see some impressive deflection for such a small section for that span; it's tough to push loads uphill. LOL. That being...

With such an important purchase, and all hydraulic items, I always consider that I'll be needing repair parts in the future, so spending more now is always better than throwing the whole thing away in the future due to lack of manufacturer support.

Pits are not legal in all localities, so check with the town before getting too excited about having one.

Floors in those are not usually up to what I'd want for standards; concrete is a much better floor for usage and future value. I wouldn't hazard jacking a vehicle on a wood framed floor, especially one built to competitive pricing standards like those sheds usually are.

Do the Zyklop rackets work properly with other manufacturer's sockets?

Looking at linesmen side cutters, dykes and needle nose pliars and noticed that Knipex has chromed versions. Seems a good idea for garage resident storage, vs the unfinished versions, but I'm wondering if the extra finish hampers gripping and cutting surface operation. Any opinions?

http://www.stillmadeinusa.com/tools.html