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Forgive my ignorance tool scrounge but how are they measured when you say 6" or 12". (sorry, I know nothing much about lathes as you can see)

Yea, I'm curious about that also. Thanks for the responses guys. At least gives me a place to start.

I have obtained an older Atlas metal lathe that I want to sell. The problem is I have not a clue what it might be worth. It's in good working order. How would you go about fixing a price on an older piece of equipment like this?

Not knowing what the previous owner had plugged in there my thoughts are discoloration from arcing. It almost looks like something was unplugged under a heavy load, maybe frequently, that caused some surface arcing. No matter what, you did the right thing replacing it.

Where is the P.O.C.? I'm not sure I understand why no valves. Every system I've seen has a shut-off valve with a tamper switch on it.

Marsha, Marsha, Marsha! J.K. Congrats Jack.

2x4 roof joists? No trusses? Aren't you concerned about snow load? I'm familiar with the siding you are using. It beats the snot out of T1-11. Especially when it comes time to paint. Looks good.

For what you are looking for, (starts easy) and for what you want to pay, I would suggest trying to find a good used Honda. I just don't think you can beat them for starting easy. And quiet. The ones I have seen you can carry on a conversation with someone while standing right next to it.

The only help I ever ask for is when I have no other choice, either because it requires an extra set of hands, or beyond my ability. And that only comes after much much trying and much much failure.

I have a switch on mine at the pressure switch. I flip it off after every use. I just feel safer about it as mentioned in all the previous posts.

When I was an electrical apprentice about 100 years ago, the plumbers class was held in the room next to ours. Our instructor would joke that there are only 3 things you need to know to be a good plumber. 1. **** runs downhill 2. Payday is on Fridays 3. Don't put you hands in your mouth We all...

I like the idea of a lazy susan in the shop. Be perfect for storing some bins of hardware and electrical and plumbing parts. I might have a stab and building one.

The unit comes with an air regulator and an air shut valve on it. I'm not sure all what happened. My guess is someone must have had the regulator wide open and the valve wide open and he just plugged shop air into it, and blewie! We run the air here at about 150 psi and I imagine it took all of...

Just a caution to users of this. In order to drain it you must raise the telescoping pan all the way to the top. This needs to be done in order to close the 1-1/2 ball valve that is on the top of the tank before you turn air on to drain it. If you don't, your going to shoot oil out the catch pan...

Are these the ones that you have to use compressed air on to drain them?

I am really sorry about your loss. I hope all works out well.

Clark Griswold would be proud! JK. Looks very nice and should keep the crooks away.

I switched over to T8's a couple of years ago. Although I have seen what I feel has been a excessive number of ballast failures with them, the light output is great and energy savings pretty good. (compared to the 400 watt HID's we had)

Again not to be a smart *** but are you certain the voltage rating of the photo cell is right? Is it an Intermatic brand? I have had a few of those be bad out of the box over the years. I like Tork much more. How you have described the wiring is correct though.

I would have said the metal halide wall pak until this afternoon. I was at our local electrical supply house and saw some LED wall pak type fixtures. 28 watt units I believe that are equivlent to 175 watt mh. And they are priced at $150.00 each. I'll try and get back there tomorrow and get you...