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Nice think about putting the foundation insulation all the way up the concrete wall ;) 8" concrete raised wall for 12' finish wall......that's gonna make a bunch of wood lost. (I made my raised concrete wall 2' mainly for that and not having to cut each wall stud...time saved during the...

it will take a while for the hot water to push all the "now cold" water sitting in the piping. the longer the run and colder the temp: the longer it will take. just run cold and put a water heater in the garage.

I have must be the same stuff. (Armakleen MPC it was called about 6-7years ago) Work #1 when heated! and is aluminium safe... WAshed a complete vintage motorcycle and DRZ400 and no issue whatsoever reusable a long time. filter it with a simple old shirt...let it sit for a couple of day for...

I have a Hypertherm Powermax 30 and it's super nice. It would cut through 3/8 and can force it's way through 1/2" if really needed. look at your table spec....1/2" plate can be more then what a DIY/affordable table can handle

Oui M. Plenty of good info and discussion here :D

2" styro below the slab. 2" styro on the whole height of the wall on the outside. (4' frost wall+2' over the slab) I have 6" fondation wall + the styro on the outside. (I had to shorten the outside dimension 4" to allow for the styro(2" all around) on the outside of the wall and still been...

3 or 4 2x4 for a 4x8 piece of plywood would be way better.

0,07/kwh in the US...Wow that's cheap.

drain oil, and put new in, clean de carb and confirm that the floatvalve shut off correctly. start it and enjoy. Cleaning a honda carb is a joke really.

I have 2 stationnary(side by side against the wall) 3'x4' work bench. They are made of 1,5"x1/8" square tube steel frame with a 1,5" epoxy slab on it...they are old university laboratory work top....totally love them...but you must retain yourself to bang too hard on them cause they can chip and...

just put a thermostat as a switch? Is it a hardwire or plug in model. I doubt it's code to have a 240v outlet controlled by a switch.(But switch exist for compressor(Leviton MS302-ds)

water based work good...but they need to be heated.

^^ exact : have installed the door myself and they support themselves very easy. I did removed the support too when installing my ceiling. Don't count on opening the door up if the support are not there though!

it doesn't need to be sharp. I bought a brand new one like posted higher in this post(red handle) and finally used a older one that make a bit smaller tab. worked great..but it was 20C+ outside. pretty the cold or wrong tool is the culprit. the right tool is pretty straight forward.:|...

remove the support, install the ceiling finish, reinstall the support.

Sound good to me. I did put a 8' stepladder on top of one section of the exact same scafolding that you have. If you do: screw it down. those scafloding are good to be stacked, but at 12' high they might get wobly a bit. you could rent 5'x5' scafolding too...they are way more stable.

Mine is 5" with 3'x3'x12" for the lift pad. 32KPA(~4600psi) all fibermesh...no steel.

I would try to close the eave with soffit material. that would be a PITA though to cut/fit every section. 50mph wind and snow....snow IS gonna get everywhere very easy. the soffit material would block the wind but let it breath for the attic ventilation.

google "fast opening commercial garage door" ;)

red tuck tape is my go to solution.