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Kudos for the great find.

Been there. Radiator shop to boil it out. Do not INTERNALLY paint or coat it. If it will be awhile until you use it, slosh some diesel in it round and round, drain that out and cap all the places air and critters can get in.

I made "Nick's Electronic Repair" bold in the thread. It was there along with the city. That is the name of the business. https://nickselectronics.com/

the OP asked who could repair his Polk circuitboard with burned out components. The Polk unit was probably not worth repairing but since he asked, Nick's could do the work if someone else finds this thread and has the same kind of question.

This is as someone indicated, an old thread from 2019 or so. There was a crisis in the electrolytic capacitor market around 2000. Some guys in Korea stole the plans from a Japanese capacitor manufacturer, and made them for a lot less. The formula they took for the fluid was an old prototype...

Many states passed laws that mandated water meters. We had no meter either until that happened. They dug up right off the main on every house in the city and installed one. In fact that was over 20 years ago and they are getting ready to do it again due to their age. Here, there is a shut off...

stupid question but if you don't pay your bill, where does the city turn the water off? Is it upstream or downstream of the pipe dents?

Thank you all. Will make sure the pressure and the ID are correct. The dewalt one seems about the same as what the Craftsman had. I think it was made by Generac and had a briggs engine. The Simpson was on sale at Sam's when I got it for just under $350. They were dumping all their gasoline...

Awesome. Thanks for letting everyone know it was successful. :)

Thank you

Have a Simpson 61124 pressure washer 2.4 GPM 3400 PSI with a Kohler SH270 6.5HP engine. Works well compared to the craftsman one I had before it. The problem is that the hose, Simpson 5/16" X 35' X 3700PSI MORFLEX M22 #7107184, is a stiff shiny gray jacketed hose that is hard to work with when...

a lot of those part number cross over brands. I would always start with finding the part number for it and Googleing it. See what else it fits. Glen's sounds interesting.

interesting question. I would think the answer would be dependent on whether they are really hollow or filled in part or full with concrete and rebar

Ok so the problem was always drainage. The "freezing" was a guess of the cause and not an actual symptom. The repair makes sense now. If the unit is in a place where some water from the hose running thru it won't drip onto a floor or ceiling, flush it out good with a hose if the tech did not do...

did these doors have chains on them at one time?

Clamp an amp meter on it, see what the wattage is that it needs. Then you can decide the easiest way to power it next time in an outage. Worse, if the motor ever goes bad, what then? So, short term might be a power backup for it, long term might be to replace it with one that has a motor and...

is that an old cloth covered electrical rubbing on the galvanized pipe?

anything is possible. Certainly there is a window that can be slid open.........

or shutdown. The internal valve on our old one went bad around 2018. It would shake the house like a fog horn being nearby. We replaced the compressor and all was well again. We could have added an external valve but the compressor was already 15 years old at that point. New one was so quiet...

I see more rust and pipes on the way to failure in the photo. A plumber may not warranty their work, or even guarantee that trying to repair it won't make it substantially worse. As others have written, When copper and galvanized or steel are joined, the galvanized / steel looses. Electrolysys...