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That's because it couldn't drain like it is supposed to, due to the condensate pipe seeing negative pressure because of the cap being left off.

Uh huh... The unit is cooling as it hypothetically freezes up. Usually, airflow will significantly reduce or stop when the coil freezes. Without putting a set of gauges on it and checking it out, no one really knows.

Uh huh...

Someone is gonna have to go up there and see if the fan motor has voltage when it's not working...

That's what the *provided* pressure drop number works out to. Ok. I have torn out my fair share of old systems, and have never come across coils plugged with hair like cart wheels. I recall one, and it was REALLY bad, like so bad that I have no idea how it could have happened. There are at...

The trap blocks air from being sucked up the condensate drain, which allows for it to drain. The vent provides a bypass around the trap. Air being sucked in will prevent the condensate drain from draining, if air is being pulled through the coil (vs being pushed, like a furnace).

That vent pipe on the coil drain is bypassing your "p" trap.

But it doesn't. Manufacturer specifies 0.28" wc pressure drop at 500 fpm, which is 1388 CFM at a full 16x25 opening. Net opening is less. Spec is for a new filter. I've looked at enough coil pressure drop specs to reasonably state that just the filter and evap coil will exceed rated fan...

It doesn't. Not even close.

Not good. Put in a plain 1" fiberglass filter. No pleated filters of any type. Does not look like there is a P trap in the picture in first post. I see an open stub sticking up about 8" out of a tee. Needs to be checked to pass or fail it.

How old is the equipment? How long from installation to first known incident of coil freezing? Pleated 1" filters? Normally, a low refrigerant charge or low airflow problems will cause the evaporator coil to freeze up quickly and repeatedly. However, I have seen a failing compressor run on...

It's taking that long for the filter to load up and reduce airflow.

Freezing coil can be an airflow problem or a refrigerant charge problem or both. Looks like it's been leaking for a while. Need to get it running properly first.

I just condemned a system. Cost less than $500. Took less than 30 minutes to do. Showed customer why it's broke. Repair is not economically viable. Your $10k replacement guess is low.

Quoted for truth.

Yes.

20-30% minimum. Almost no one will pay to fix it though. Aeroseal is a method to seal existing and installed ductwork, but simply sealing an existing residential system is a bad approach unless the system is evaluated and deemed to be properly sized. It was common in my area and experience...

Could be BS. Checking would be an extra diagnostic step and therefore extra money and customer approval. This *****. ****** approach. Lies, without proof. "Probably" is a guess. Combustion analysis is the only way to confirm a bad heat exchanger, short of painfully obvious issues. ***** to...

R22 equipment was phased out around ~2010 and the loophole for "dry" condensers was closed shortly afterwards. So, we are talking about equipment that's easily 20 years old. I would strongly suggest making an effort to find the leak. It could be something easy like a loose Schrader core or...

Yup. Yup and yup. However, there are usually changes that can be made without tearing out walls and such. It really has to be looked at.