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I'm an early adopter of CRS. Now I get advance notice of important events and dates:rocker:.

They were the best. I think you should find an old one that still has repair parts available. The Magnum 1/2" had a side handle held in with a 3/8" -16 stud. It always tried to kick my *** until I stuffed a pipe ****** in the handle for more leverage. Then it got angry and just broke the handle...

I bought a set of Snap-on 3/8" dr metric impact about 12 years ago. They were on sale and backordered or the dealer traded for them, don't recall which. I didn't read the fine print. Imagine my surprise when they showed up and the set was 10mm through 18mm but 11mm and 16mm were not included...

To answer your last question first: Any time you compress air you also concentrate any moisture that's in it. The only way to totally stop it is to compress air with no moisture in it to start with. Not ea$y. The moisture condenses to water and we can find it right after the place it cools to...

Whether your gasket removal tool is powered by hand or air is not as important as avoiding introducing abrasive particles and, ideally, not altering the surface flatness or finish. The reason for abrasive particle avoidance should be self-evident. On most stock, unmodified components (which is...

^+2 Any place that abrasive grit will get inside an engine, trans, diff, etc the best method is a scraper. Spray on gasket remover can soften things up. Clean and slick is not as good as maintaining the original surface finish that helps hold the gasket clamped in place.

If you do a lot of work on them, creepers can become a constant expense. I use Lisle's low profile plastic creeper. The only part warrantied is the body unless you spend big bucks on one of the tool trucks and the dealer will absorb it for goodwill. For me it's cheaper to just keep new casters...

Tools, jewels, cash, weapons, ... you can't leave your stuff unguarded. I think cynical means no one will care for your property as much as you do. I say to young guys "If you want to do your work with my tools the first thing I expect is bring it back promptly in the same or better condition...

That works for me, too. I use a Sharpie for warnings about stuff like "do not load" and a regular ink pen for data like "steering linkage fell apart" because that's what people expect to see.

Farm & Fleet does not carry the whole lineup. My goto diag cutters are not in their selection. Snap-on has them labeled Blue Point so I buy it there.

I wear the same Wigwam socks at work every day year round. I bought enough for 2 months at a time when I found how good they were. I hope they still are. I've worn through more boots than I have socks.

Wow, there's a lot of useful pliers there. Too bad nobody ever gets to use them.

I have 4 of those tools, all bought separately as needed. I betcha I paid more for any 2 than the price for the kit. If they're the same quality as those sold previously I believe you'll find them useful. Once they start to flex or yield noticeably it's best to abort and proceed to plan B.

I would remove the casters and replace them with weight-bearing pads of lower height. Keep galvanic corrosion in mind. Years of lateral stress from opening drawers is going to rub through any paint on the bottom of your boxes. Mylar tape is good insurance between metals, even similar. Clear...

You hit that nail... Same thing happens with trucks. The dealers here offer flat rate diagnosis again, usually 2 hours max. When I started out wrenching diag time was unpaid. Make your best guess but it had to be rolled into the labor charge. That was not a good deal for the customer because all...

Thanks.

You see what I meant about chocking the wheels in the 2nd pic? Unfortunately, that slippery rock is not a chock and he only used one because half-assed is good enough. If I knew where that was I'd be checking Google Earth Sat view for a big stain on the pavement. As a GJ'r says in his tagline...

I meant "stable".